Breitling Premier Top Time

We aren’t the first to notice, but Breitling have been at the top of their game these past few years with stunning renovations of core collections and some remarkable reiterations of historic classics. Just look at their recent Chronomat line or the Superocean Heritage 57’ if you need reminding. Continuing with their hot streak, Breitling have announced their latest limited edition, the Breitling Premier Top Time Dues, a wonderfully retro piece with the appeal of 21st-century proportions designed in collaboration with Australian lifestyle brand Deus Ex Machina.

Limited to 1,500 pieces, the latest release from Breitling also commemorates the Swiss watch manufacturer as the new Official Timekeeper for the Deus Swank Rally, an epic motorcycle championship which honours vintage bikes in diverse locations all around the world. Yet despite its associations with motorcyclists, the Breitling Premier Top Time Dues is more than just a biker watch but a Breitling limited edition for adventurers of all kinds. This is embodied within Breitling’s new Dues Squad, a group of fearless explorers who have been involved with Deus Ex Machina for years. The squad includes Californian surfboarder and motorcyclist Forrest Minchinton, Hawaiian competitive surfer Sierra Lerback and French motorcycle engineer and designer Jeremy Tagand.
While modern in its proportions and mission, the new Breitling Premier Top Time Dues Limited Edition watch still upholds its heritage with a handsome vintage-inspired aesthetic inspired by the original Top Time released in 1960. The collection was, and still is, characterised by its masculine-elegance and was deliberately introduced for fulfilling the needs of young and active professionals. While other Breitling watch collections like the flagship Navitimer or Chronomat delivered a higher price point, the Breitling Top Time was the perfect entry level chronograph for young gentlemen starting their journey in the luxury watch world.
The Breitling Top Time quickly became a classic amongst watch enthusiasts and it wasn’t long before the design found itself at the centre of pop culture. Most famously, a Breitling Top Time was worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in the 1965 film Thunderball, a design so coveted it sold at auction in 2013 for a whopping £103,875. Sadly, production for the design ended nearly two decades after its original release. That was until last year, when Breitling revealed a reiteration of the Breitling Top Time model ref 2003 with a stunning steel case and ‘Zorro’ dial. It was another instant hit, speaking to fans of both vintage and contemporary watches alike, and if this previous release is anything to go by, we have high hopes for the new Breitling Premier Top Time Dues Limited Edition.
A tribute to the nomad spirit of Deus Ex Machina and a nod to Breitling’s historic Top Time collection, the Breitling Premier Top Time Dues Limited Edition delivers the perfect balance between retro and contemporary with an upsized 41mm stainless steel case resolutely faithful in form to the 60’s original. The unadorned narrow bezel sits beside slender, straight lugs and convex sapphire crystal treated with double anti-reflective coating. Also faithful to the original is its water resistance, which is rated to only 30 metres, assisted by a snapped stainless steel case back decorated with a piece of Deus artwork. The image of the retro-looking motorcyclist is designed by Deus creative director Carby Tuckwell.
The Breitling Premier Top Time Dues Limited Edition watch continues its bold aesthetic with a racing-themed brown calfskin leather strap and a panda-style chronograph dial dressed in silver and black. Squircle-shaped chronograph counters for small seconds and 30 minutes counter sit parallel to each other while a matching black tachymeter scale adorns the edge detailed with the words “In benzin veritas” translating to “In petrol we trust”. The addition of bright orange accents found on the hands and tachymeter scale is a spectacular touch, especially the shape of the chronograph hand moulded into a lightening bolt. These accents alongside the inclusion of the Dues logo at 6 o’clock mark the new partnership between Breitling and Deus Ex Machina.

As with all Breitling watches, the Breitling Premier Top Time Dues is powered by a COSC certified chronometer movement, this time the Breitling Calibre 23. The Swiss manufacture movement delivers central hands for hours, minutes and chronograph seconds, two subsidiary dials for small seconds and 30 minutes and a wholesome power reserve of 48 hours. Delivering optimal legibility of these functions is Super-LumiNova coating on the hour markers and hour and minute hands.
As a limited edition of only 1,500 pieces, it’s expected that like the Breitling Top Time before it, the new Breitling Dues Limited Edition won’t be around for long. For more information on the Breitling Premier Top Time Dues watch

Breitling Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44

Released in 2017 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of Breitling‘s first Superocean dive watch, the Breitling Superocean Héritage II has become, according to new CEO Georges Kern, one of the top-selling stars in the company’s largely aviation-inspired lineup. Thus it should come as no surprise that among Breitling’s Baselworld 2018 offerings were a host of new Superocean Héritage II models in new 44-mm cases. Here we take a closer look at the new three-hand automatic and two new automatic chronograph series debuting this year.
First up, the model that Breitling calls the “flagship” of the Superocean Héritage II collection, the Superocean Héritage II B01 Chronograph 44, which is powered by the Breitling in-house Caliber B01, a COSC chronometer-certified chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Three versions are available, all in stainless steel cases, one with a black dial and a black “Aero Classic” rubber strap (which calls to mind a Milanese-style bracelet); another with a blue dial and an Ocean Classic steel bracelet (which is essentially a type of Milanese bracelet); and a “Panda” dial, silver with black subdials, also on a rubber Aero Classic strap. As per Kern’s new design edict for Breitling chronographs, the dial has a tricompax arrangement with subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and a date window at 4:30, and the movement is visible through a sapphire caseback.
In subtle contrast to the B01 models, the Breitling Superocean Héritage II Chronograph 44 feature a 12-9-6 subdial configuration and a 3 o’clock date window. These contain the self-winding Breitling Caliber 13, built on an outsourced ETA 7750 base movement and hence, again as per the new design policy, ensconced behind a solid steel caseback rather than on display through a clear window. Caliber 13 is no slouch in the reliability and robustness areas either, however, with a COSC chronometer certification, an integrated chronograph function, and a 42-hour power reserve. Two stainless-steel-cased versions of this chronograph are available — one with a black dial and steel bracelet, the other with a blue dial and a rubber strap — along with one two-tone steel-and-rose gold model, with a black dial and bracelet.
Finally, for those seeking a simpler, classical dive-watch look, Breitling is offering the Superocean Héritage II B20 Automatic 44, a three-handed timekeeper with a date window at 6 o’clock. Here also available in two stainless steel references and one in steel-and-gold, the watches are powered by Breitling’s Caliber B20, which is based on the Tudor Caliber MT5612 (itself based on the Breitling B01; yes, I know it’s a bit confusing), which it developed in partnership with the Rolex-owned Tudor brand. This automatic, COSC certified movement offers a 70-hour power reserve and ticks away under a solid steel caseback. The all-steel models have either a black dial with rubber strap or blue dial with steel bracelet, while the two-tone model pairs the black dial with the bracelet. Breitling also revealed that the latter model will also be offered in a 42-mm case size.
The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage II B01 Chronograph 44 is a lovely watch. The 44mm size is a proper size for many wrists and could fit even a smaller wrist. Even a lady can consider it a statement for an active life. The watch feels good on the wrist with a slight weightier wear. Those used to only quartz and/or carbon/titanium watches might find it on the heavy side at first. The ones used to having a solid automatic chronograph steel watch will find the SuperOcean B01 lovely, the extra bracelet weight giving a feeling of assurance and robustness.

The pushers are easy to use. The initial stuttering in the video was caused by the author’s incertitude by handling through camera viewer. The chrono pushers respond well, creating a robust feel without effort.

While not a dress watch, the Breitling SuperOcean B01 still boosts enough comfort and confidence for a daily use. In these times, where etiquette is more casual and relaxed, the piece can be a good conversation starter even on a business attire. But the watch requests and deserves action, beach or cold mountain lakes. It deserves adventure.

Breitling novelty The Chronomat becomes a Super-model

A few months ago, we presented Breitling’s Chronomat collection with several feminine versions. To ensure no one gets jealous, we’re now going to reveal the new masculine variations, with the Super Chronomat B01 44 and the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar.
After the quartz crisis shook the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s and 1980s, Breitling returned brilliantly to the world of mechanical watches – and more specifically of chronographs – with the Chronomat collection and its generous size. This sports collection, which is inextricably linked to the history of aviation, has become since then an emblematic model of the house.
Last November, we presented the Breitling Chronomat watches made for women’s wrists with their delicate size of 36 and 32 mm (read our article about Breitling and the new feminine Chronomat). The brand released a vast range of different cases – from steel to red gold and two-coloured models – and some are even adorned with a case and indices set with diamonds to look like a jewel. Still, Breitling did not forget the male population as it completed the iconic collection with resistant and bold variations. Let’s turn the spotlight on these new editions.
For the design, Breitling was inspired by a model named Frecce Tricolori made by the house in 1983 for the pilots of the Italian aerial squadron. Available in three versions, the 44 mm diameter chronograph – in steel or red gold – combines a vintage look and a modern dial – in black, blue or brown – which features a unidirectional bezel with a matching ceramic insert. It is a first on a Chronomat. The indices and the rider tabs numerals – aesthetic signature of the collection – are coated with a luminescent material to ensure readability in any given situation.
The instrument is water-resistant up to 200 metres and is equipped with an automatic movement which is COSC-certified (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). It powers a dial which contrasts with the silver subdials and offers a 70-hour power reserve.
A special version, with the same features as its fellow watches, comes with an additional black dial with a UTC module integrated to the Rouleaux bracelet. This very clever function tells the universal time and displays a second time zone. This detail will appeal to business men and explorers who travel through different countries in only a few days.
The two versions of the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar – featuring a black or blue dial and a steel or red gold with a black or blue ceramic insert bezel – integrate a semi-perpetual calendar which needs adjusting once every leap year, or every 1,461 days.
Powered by a chronograph movement – once again COSC-certified – this mechanism also displays the day, the date, the month and the moon phases. The piece comes with either a Rouleaux steel bracelet, a two-coloured bracelet (steel and red gold) or rubber strap (blue or black) – which offers at the same time a matte, sleek and textured look. Small but significant detail: this last strap is made thanks to an extremely precise and technical moulding injection technique.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Stainless Steel Platinum Ice Blue

This specific version features a stainless steel case with a platinum bezel plate matched to an Ice Blue dial. Available with a rubber strap only, this Chronomat is powered by the in-house Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Stainless Steel Platinum Ice Blue Manufacture Caliber 01, a COSC-certified chronometer.
Presented in stainless steel, the Chronomat features a 42 mm case and the iconic bezel with the four rider tabs. This specific version features a special platinum bezel plate matched to an Ice Blue dial. Available with a rubber strap only, this Chronomat is powered by the in-house Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, a COSC-certified chronometer.
Breitling’s all-purpose watch for your every pursuit, at home both on the red carpet and at the beach. Introduced in 1984, the Chronomat celebrated Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Stainless Steel Platinum Ice Blue centenary in style and marked the return of the mechanical chronograph. Nearly forty years later, the Chronomat is set to appeal to men and women of purpose, action and style.
Chronomat. Breitling’s all-purpose watch for your every pursuit, at home both on the red carpet and at the beach. Introduced in 1984, the Chronomat celebrated Breitling’s centenary in style and marked the return of the mechanical chronograph. Nearly forty years later, the Chronomat is set to appeal to men and women of purpose, action and style.
The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Stainless Steel Platinum Ice Blue Chronomat B01 42 Bentley followed in 2020. Like the Centenary Chronograph, this model honors Bentley’s 100th anniversary. It features a 42-mm stainless steel case and a striking green sunburst dial with applied bar indices.
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Enjoy guaranteed protection from Tourneau. Together with the standard manufacturer’s warranty and the complimentary Tourneau warranty, this watch is guaranteed coverage for up to five years. This exclusive guarantee is reserved for new watches purchased at Tourneau.
For as long as we can remember, the Breitling Chronomat has held a significant place in the brand’s history. It was first released in the 1940’s and was one of the first in the world to boast a slide-rule bezel. Nevertheless, for most watch aficionados, the most notable Chronomat was one released in 1984 during a time when extra-thin quartz watches were the order of the day. In 1983, Breitling released the Frecce Tricolori chronograph, a mechanical timepiece designed in collaboration with the Italian aerial squadron of the same name. Its versatility was evident as its tachymeter scale caught the interest of Formula 1 teams anda its reversable rider tabs made it the perfect watch for regattas. Then for the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, Ernest Schneider decided to create a new icon which he saw in the face of the Chronomat Frecce Tricolori.
Rather than following the herd and designing another quartz watch, Schneider took the courageous path and went against the increasing dominance of thin quartz watches with the release of an all-new Bretiling Chronomat. The 1984 watch became a huge success and was a key influence in bringing mechanical watches on trend again. This time, the name Chronomat expressed something entirely different, with the combination of words “chronograph” and “automatic” making up its name. The new collection of Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watches for 2020 pay tribute to their predecessor with a reinstated vintage Rouleaux bracelet, interchangeable rider tabs on the bezel and the staple Breitling B01 in-house mechanical movement.

Although not an entirely faithful re-edition, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 has managed to balance the perfect amount of vintage aesthetic with modern improvements. The 42mm stainless steel case looks almost exact to the original with integrated lugs, robust shoulders, and a bevelled rounded crown. The pushers and crown protection have been modernised slightly for better integration and to improve the water resistant rating to 200 metres.
Breitling and Bentley have worked together since 2003 when Bentley Motors entrusted the Swiss watch brand to design an onboard clock for their flagship model, the Continental GT. However, it seems the car and watch manufacturer’s history succeeds even that with a personal connection tracing back to the 1940’s. Willy Breitling, the inventor of the second chronograph pusher and the grandson of Breitling founder Leon Breitling, was a huge Bentley fan and was known to have owned several Bentleys that he would drive on the roads between Geneva and Le Chaux-de-Fonds.

Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 43 Stainless Steel

The third Breitling Summit took place on September 24 in Los Angeles, and the headlining announcement was the relaunch, and revamp, of the sporty, aviation-inspired Avenger collection, a series of models that had been mostly dormant for the past few years of the new Breitling era. Here is a brief rundown of what the new Avenger has to offer.
The Breitling Avenger — like the more iconic Navitimer tracing its design DNA to that of the venerable Breitling Chronomat, the Swiss brand’s trailblazing chronograph for pilots — has been given a facelift that incorporates design elements of another aerial-sporty model, the now (presumably) discontinued Colt. The collection has also, as per CEO Georges Kern’s ethos of “too many choices means no choices,” been slimmed down and streamlined. A total of 14 new references are now offered, in three sizes and a relative handful of colorways, case materials, and strap options. The case sizes range from 43 mm to 45 mm to 48 mm, and the functions encompass a simple three-hand time display with date, a chronograph, and a GMT. Two subtly distinct dial executions are available, one with simple indices, the other with military-style stencil-type Arabic numerals.
The biggest, boldest members of the new family are the 48-mm Super Avenger models, both containing self-winding COSC-certified chronograph calibers. The Breitling Super Avenger Chronograph 48 has a stainless steel case; a three-register dial with subdials at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock, a date window at 3 o’clock, and luminous-coated hands and numerals. The Night Mission version offers the same dial layout in a tough-but-lightweight DLC-coated titanium case. Both are equipped with the ETA 7750-based Caliber 13, with a 48-hour power reserve. The Chronograph 48 is mounted on an anthracite-colored leather strap or a steel bracelet, while the Night Mission comes on a blue leather military strap to match its blue dial.
One size down are the Avenger 45 models, which include two chronographs well as two new timepieces in the Avenger Sea Wolf sub-family targeted at divers. The Avenger Chronograph 45 has a steel case, fronted by the unidirectional rotating bezel with Breitling’s emblematic rider tabs at the cardinal points, It’s offered with a black or blue dial with the same dial architecture (and the same movement, Caliber 13) as its “Super” big brothers. The “Night Mission” version of that model, in the black DLC-coated titanium case, hosts either a blue or military green dial, the latter reference coming on a khaki-green military strap. Also weighing in at 45 mm in diameter are the Automatic 45 Sea Wolf editions, equipped with Breitling Caliber 17 (ETA 2824-2 base) and sporting a 3,000-meter water resistant case and a three-hand dial display with 3 o’clock date window. Dial options are bright yellow in the steel-cased version and a black dial in the DLC-coated titanium “Night Mission” model. Finally, the Avenger 45 lineup offers two models equipped with a GMT function, and powered by the self-winding Breitling Caliber 32 (based on an ETA 2893-2) with a 42-hour power reserve. The stainless steel model, on bracelet or leather strap, has a blue dial; the “Night Mission” model features a black dial and sand-colored leather military strap.
At a more versatile but still substantial 43 mm are the Avenger Chronograph 43 and Automatic 43, the former outfitted with Caliber 13, the latter with Caliber 17. Both watches come with either a blue or black dial, on either a blue or anthracite leather strap, with either a pin or folding buckle closure, or on a steel bracelet with a folding clasp. Prices for the new Avenger collection were not available at press time, but a Breitling representative told that the range would be from approximately $3,000 to just over $5,000. Check out WatchTime.com in the coming weeks for more news and new watches from the 2019 Breitling Summit.

Breitling Endurance Pro Sky Blue X82310281B1S1

The brand-new 2021 Breitling Endurance Pro sports a bright blue strap. The color is echoed in the pulsometer scale on the outer edge of the dial, as well as on the crown and the start-top pusher at 2:00. The resulting look is fresh and vibrant. The perfect watch for summer 2021! The 44mm case of the Breitling Endurance Pro is made of Breitlight, a high-tech lightweight yet strong composite material. The bidirectional bezel -engraved with a compass scale- is made of the same material, as is the pin buckle. The Breitling Endurance Pro is powered by caliber B82, a thermo-compensated SuperQuartz movement with chronograph and date. It is ten times more precise than regular quartz and offers a battery life of approximately three to four years

The Breitling Endurance Pro Sky Blue is available for pre-order in our eBoutique.
The Breitling Endurance Pro is not for those who worry about the unbearable lightness of being – it weighs just 65 grams dripping wet. The 65g carbon fiber Formex Leggera and 55 gram titanium OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra-Light are “proper” mechanical watches that are as light or lighter than the Endurance Pro. The OMEGA costs $48,600.
Powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 82 with the same SuperQuartz

 technology that equips the products in the Breitling Professional range, the Endurance Pro
The Endurance Pro features an ultra-light Breitlight

 case, a robust material 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than stainless steel. Non-magnetic, thermally stable and hypoallergenic, Breitlight

 is highly resistant to scratches, traction and corrosion.

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57

Breitling introduces the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise. This take on Breitling’s 50s-inspired dive watch features a slightly smaller case, and sunny pastel dials with matching bezels and straps.
The stainless steel case of the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise measures 38mm across, compared to 42mm for the full-size version. For the palette of this Capsule Collection, Breitling found inspiration in the laid-back vibe of seaside leisure. The Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise comes in either summer white, aquamarine, mint green, or iced latte. All come with matching ceramic bezel inserts and Saffiano straps. The fifth and final version has a white dial and rainbow-colored hour markers. They’re only available during the 2021 summer season.
The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise is powered by caliber 10, a COSC-certified self-winding movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. They’re water-resistant up to 100 meters.
We take a long look at the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 where I’ll attempt to convince you that it’s worth a try.

We don’t deserve the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57. We’re mean, quick to judge, and pretty set in our ways about most things — and that includes watches. We complain about watch prices, moan about in-house versus sourced movements without understanding the benefits. Really, just give us a black dial, wrap it in a 40mm stainless case, and maybe include a dive bezel. Artificially limit production and ensure the social media sages pair it with Goyard, LV, Hermes, Gucci, or some bespoke useless slippers and, voilà, you have the best watch on the planet.

Consequently, it’s because of the behavior detailed above that I come back to my statement. We don’t deserve the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 because I’m guessing most won’t give it a chance. On paper, it simply doesn’t stack up favorably against the norms. But if you only look at those things without trying it on, that’s a real damn shame as it’s the best new watch I’ve worn in 2020. Bold words? You betcha…
The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 is a proper throwback watch
Simply put, the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 is a throwback watch. You won’t find a screw-down crown, overkill levels of water resistance, or a unidirectional bezel with clicks. I guess that because of these points, Breitling references laid back surfing lifestyle of the 1960s and steers away from any mention of diving. Maybe that’s a safer and more mainstream marketing direction, but I think it really sells this model short (not to mention that this watch was long gone in its original form by the time the 1960s boogie-boarded into town).

The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 is what dive watches were from almost all companies back in 1957. Namely, they were normal watches with beefed-up sealing to aid water resistance. Then, add a bidirectional friction fit dive bezel, luminous dial and hands, and a non-screw-down crown. Rolex was an exception with their Oysterlock (people often forget that they had had exclusive rights to screw-down crowns at that time) and Omega with its Naiad system. We’ve come a long way since then with more capable watches hitting the market on the regular, but I’m still glad this new piece is available.
You’d think I’d start with the inward sloping bezel design when breaking down the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57. I’ll get to it. But I really need to open with the case because it’s pure magic. I’d guess it was five years ago that I touched down at Vienna International. I hit the tarmac right before a gullywasher did. That’s just as well, as had that sudden, violent storm broken any sooner I might have stayed-put in Frankfurt.

As it was, I made it. And thank goodness as my trip included, aside from essential meetings, a dinner that evening with Fred Mandelbaum. Even though I’d spoken with Fred numerous times, we’d never met in person. But an hour or so after checking into my hotel, his capacious Range Rover emerged from the tempest and I hopped inside.

On our drive into the city, we spoke about all sorts of things but watches dominated. We finally arrived at our destination, the clouds had parted, and it was time to move to the restaurant. With timepieces in tow, we took our seats. Fred had brought all manner of things, but, unsurprisingly, the hardware mostly comprised Breitling watches.

And when we talk vintage Breitling, you don’t need a degree in statistics to assume that the selection is somewhat chronograph-heavy. But there was this one aberration that stuck out to me. It was a watch that didn’t belong to Breitling or any other attending brand at the table and I loved it. Of course, that watch was the Breitling Superocean. The case was impossibly thin and was topped by this exaggerated, almost ridiculous, bowled bezel. It was so elegant and so classy compared to the brutalist divers that came before and after it. I held many watches that night, but I just kept coming back to the Superocean. It looked epic on my wrist.
The night went on, the seafood was sublime, and the wine possibly even better. And as things often go at dinners like this, we turned our attention to verbal fantasy. We spoke of modern-day Breitling, what a mess it was and why the hell the brand was doing such an efficient job of ignoring its glorious past. Yes, all of this was pre-Kern and before Fred finally received a call from this storied marque. I think we even spoke about how amazing it would be if Breitling made a serious modern version of the earliest Superocean. The very thought felt otherworldly. But in the year 2020, where just about anything is possible, we have the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57. And folks, that’s just downright amazing.

I’ve been fortunate enough to attend some Breitling events where I see things well before their release date. NDAs enter the fray and it’s all very hush-hush. But I can talk about the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 and its genesis because the original prototype photos are public. It was over a year ago that I saw the first concept. It was a step in the right direction, but a half step. The watch had the bowled bezel, but it was larger and clumsy. I think it also used the bulkier Tudor-supplied automatic found in the Superocean Heritage II. And while that mock-up was probably a little too close to the Heritage II, the size was more of a no-brainer for Breitling. I wasn’t privy to the ensuing discussions, but I can imagine that things were highly contentious.
We’re glad that those tough conversations led to the product that is today’s Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 because the dimensions are something else. The watch features a 38mm diameter case that’s dominated by a 42mm wide bezel. Despite the influence of this proportionally gargantuan bezel, the whole package is only 9.9mm thick. And how about the lug-to-lug? 46mm makes this thing incredibly wearable. And at the heart of this design lies one of the most controversial points. Breitling chose its B10 automatic which is a chronometer-certified ETA 2892 or Sellita SW300. People are sniffy about this because they feel that a watch starting at €4,000 should have something in-house powering proceedings.

Let’s be clear on this. The Tudor movement would have ruined the proportions of this watch. And, Breitling doesn’t have anything in its arsenal to satisfy the historically correct form factor. Yes, you can find far cheaper watches with an ETA 2892 movement, but is that comparison valid? To me, it’s like saying that a Corvette-powered Iso Grifo should be held directly against, well, a Corvette. They both provide similar performance, but the details are worlds apart.
The lugs on the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 are so slim and delicate that they remind me of shards. What they lack in pure size, though, they make up for with details. There’s a chamfer leading away from the watch and one that angles towards the bracelet. The mid-case also looks amazingly thin, but that’s partly an illusion. The case actually extends lower towards the solid screw-in case back, but this portion is separated by a hard line. The whole thing comes off as so thin that it could be a dress watch.
But there’s that bezel. From the side, it grows upwards and outwards at something like a 30-degree angle. It’s awesome to grab onto and fiddle with and the precision knurling only serves to aid the activity. When we come to the concave bezel design itself on the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57, the brand chose ceramic for the job.

At first, I was concerned because I have a love/hate relationship with the stuff. On the positive side, it’s long-lasting, durable, and chromatically consistent. On the negative side, it can come off as plasticky or lifeless. It’s almost too perfect! But on the Breitling, it is perfect. When we look at the vintage model, it was high gloss paint and, therefore, ceramic was the appropriate modern corollary. With this welcome and sympathetic upgrade, annoying chips and scratches are shown the door. The bezel also avoids the classic ceramic trait of looking grey all the time. And, if you’re wondering how it feels during operation, the bezel tension is just right.
Breitling rocked the dial on the new Superocean Heritage ’57. The brand avoided the modern malady of throwing all sorts of useless crap on there or, worse, a date. I mean seriously, someone within Breitling must have had some devilish inside dirt on the rest of the staff to get away with such a watch! Everything is faithfully reproduced here from the original model down to the “Christmas Tree” hour hand and the “oven dial” hour markers. The applied markers are precise and the hands are well crafted. As for verbiage, the only additions are the depth rating and chronometer. There’s no “’57” or, thank heavens, the Captain Obvious “automatic” script. Just about every company screws this up, but the designers finally crushed the marketeers! And to top it all off, there’s a hybrid boxed/domed sapphire crystal that faithfully follows the original.
For €450 more, you can opt-out of the leather strap in favor of a mesh bracelet. I strongly suggest you do. No, strike that. It should be compulsory because this is one lovely addition that further makes the watch. The 20 by 18mm Swiss-made bracelet snuggles between the lugs so perfectly that it looks like an extension of the case. Furthermore, the mesh is thin, exquisitely polished, and tightly woven. On my densely forested wrists, I’ve encountered exactly zero hair pulling and it has been amazing in the heat. When we come to the clasp, it looks and feels like something out of the 1950s.
The two-button release opens a butterfly style clasp that’s not too wide or long. And locking in the sides just feels expensive. But this bracelet has one more trick up its sleeve related to its links. Breitling designed mesh links that fit seamlessly into the bracelet. Yes, these links use pins, but that’s somewhat expected due to the lack of thickness. It’s slick and much nicer than the irreversible surgery formerly required on a vintage mesh.
There are a couple of other points I’d like to mention about the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57. Firstly, the crown is one more example of how much thought went into this watch. The finishing wouldn’t look out of place on a Grand Seiko. The shape, on the other hand, follows the angled bezel and is really nice between the fingers. If you thought Breitling pulled a crown out of the parts drawer, think again. And then there’s the lume. Who the hell does Breitling think they are by challenging Seiko all of the sudden? This damn thing is a veritable lantern at night and it really took me by surprise.
So, when Oris rolled out the Divers Sixty-Five several years back, people were excited. However, they were quick to point out its measly 100 meters of water resistance. With the new Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57, we get 100 meters of water resistance and no screw-down crown. The horror! Look, if you’re after a proper dive watch to meet your Scuba needs, Breitling and many other brands will happily sell you a more apt professional model. However, this is a modern watch and no matter what the pundits tell you, it can get wet. I took it in the pool the other day and would happily take it to the beach or snorkeling. It’s absolutely fine.

And you know what? I know more people with Rolex Oyster-cased watches than not who take them off before going to the pool for fear of “damaging” them. Count my wife as one of those subscribers. And then, apologies in advance, there’s another friend who recently forgot to batten down the crown of his Planet Ocean before water skiing. Let’s just say that the innards of his watch became “at one” with Lake Tahoe. I guess what I am saying is that the Superocean Heritage ’57 should work for 99% of people 99% of the time. And let’s not forget that a screw-down mechanism would have added bulk to the case.
The other thing I constantly experience are comparisons between the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 and the Rado Captain Cook. I feel like I’ve had to explain this ad nauseam. If we’re talking history, the Breitling came first — period. If we’re talking about the last several years, Rado reissued its Captain Cook first (and, yes, it has a screw-down crown). Both have an unusual concave bezel, but the comparisons can and should stop right there. The Rado has proportions far more in keeping with traditional divers — I’m really referring to the bezel to lug ratio.

The Breitling, on the other hand, overemphasizes the bezel and the skinny lugs are basically there as a supporting member. If you’re a vintage fan, the watch that’s closest to the Breitling is actually the Gruen Ocean Chief. And then there’s the finishing. We love the Captain Cook, but there’s simply no comparison. Nor should there be when the Breitling is twice the price.
I own and get to play with a lot of watches each and every year. I end up liking most of them, but even if I buy, very few truly occupy space in a special part of my collection. These are my “go-to” watches that I am always happy to wear. My Explorer 14270, Submariner 14060M, my grandfather’s Datejust, the gold Speedmaster, and Seiko 6215 are the watches that fit this description. The Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 has joined that elite group. It’s so different but wears so perfectly that I love it. It’s light, elegant, yet somehow sporty. It also pairs with anything and I think that this side of that gold Speedmaster, it’s the best modern reinterpretation of a vintage watch that I’ve seen. From the watch itself to the bracelet, I’m completely at ease with all the choices Breitling made.
But no matter how comfortable I am in explaining why I enjoy this watch so much, I still wonder if the Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 will prove to be a commercial success. As I said, the published specs make it hard to understand and very hard to compare with other watches — especially divers. Early limited pieces with their rainbow dials sold out immediately, but we will have to see how the regular black, blue, and two-tone models fare with daily buyers. But for us true watch nerds, this is a watch worth experiencing. As parts of the world reopen and you venture to watch boutiques, I can only make one suggestion. If you try on only one “wild card” watch, make it this one.

Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman

Back in 2019 Breitling launched a limited edition Superocean watch in partnership with Ironman, the famously grueling triathlon series that has bred champions and fostered feelings of inadequacy for decades now. Yesterday in Los Angeles the two launched another collaboration in the way of a duo of Endurance Pro Ironman watches from the brand’s Professional collection. Though two pieces are being debuted, only the red version will be available for the general population while the other black and gold model will only be available to those who finish the Ironman race which consists of a measly 2.4 mile swim, a 112-mile bike, and a 26.2 mile run (I’ve read this is something around ~40,000 people annually).
We’ve gone in-depth with the Endurance Pro on a couple of occasions (see here and here) so I will just briefly give context here. Part of the Professional collection, the Endurance Pro case is done in the brand’s proprietary Breitlight polymer which is three times lighter than titanium and almost six times lighter than steel while being harder than both. In fact, the watch case weighs 35 grams while the rubber strap itself weights 30 grams to give you an idea of how light it is.
Measuring 44mm wide and 12.5mm thick with 100M water resistance, the Endurance Pro Ironman uses the thermocompensated SuperQuartz Breitling in-house (and COSC certified) Caliber 82 movement. It’s a 1/10th of a second chronograph with a 30-minute counter and is one of the too-few HAQ (high accuracy quartz) movements out there.
As for these two new Endurance Pro Ironman watches, the first is the model with a sort of red gradient dial with black touches and the Ironman logo on the 6 o’clock counter. It comes on a matching red rubber strap that reads “IRONMAN” rather than the usual “BREITLING” text. Red is a pretty bold color choice though the gradient affect is pretty on trend at the moment.
The second model is called the Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman Finisher, which is apt as it’s only available to those people who have completed the race. Honestly this is a pretty badass looking watch, the badassness of it enhanced by its entry requirement. With a black dial with gold touches, it’s stealthy with a burst of finish-line magic. Of course, the case back also has “Finisher Series” on it. I think in both design and swagger, the Endurance Pro Ironman Finisher is the standout. I suppose there will inevitably be cases of — let’s call it stolen valor —where someone buys a Finisher secondhand (or even more nefarious means as this is obviously an unscrupulous person). To them, I say: shame!
One of Breitling’s most successful releases of 2020 was the Endurance Pro, a series of colourful, entry-level Breitling sports watches perfectly suited to the wrist of modern-day athletes. Today, they expand their “ultimate athleisure” collection in partnership with the IRONMAN Group to unveil two new Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN watches: one dressed in red available to the general public and another in stealthy black reserved only for those who’ve completed an IRONMAN event.

The Breitling Endurance Pro collection launched last year was an important milestone for the luxury watch manufacturer as they re-entered themselves back into the professional sports watch game. Like the new Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN watches, their design was inspired from a 1970’s Breitling watch known as the Spring which combined a unique pulsometer scale with a lightweight resin case. The design was contrived especially for athletes that needed to check their heart rate on something lightweight for the wrist. This very aesthetic remains at the core of the entire Endurance Pro collection, designed not only for recreation sportsmen but professionals like that of Breitling’s Triathlon Squad: Froderno, Chris McCormack and Daniela Ryf, all of which are Iron Man World Champions.
Since its inception in 1978, the IRONMAN triathlon has represented the ultimate test of body, mind, and spirit for athletes. According to Breitling, the three competition stages – swimming, cycling, and running – are the same activities that feature prominently in the lifestyles of Breitling’s core customer base: men and women of action, purpose, and style. With this in mind, Breitling and IRON began a quickly successful partnership back in 2019 with the launch of the Breitling Superocean IRONMAN Limited Edition. Now, their collaborations expands with a duo of Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN watches. The first is an exciting red version available globally at all Breitling boutiques and retailers like Jura Watches and the second is a black and gold piece nicknamed the Endurance Pro Finisher exclusively available for IRONMAN race finishers through IRONMAN channels.

“IRONMAN truly reflects our core values of performance and endurance. We’ve designed this to be an ideal watch for elite athletes as well as a casual, everyday sports chronograph for active people who want that winning combination of performance and luxury,” said Breitling CEO Georges Kern.
“We’re thrilled to continue our partnership with such an exceptional and well-respected watchmaker. After the success of our collaboration in 2019, we are pleased to partner with Breitling in creating this new watch which embodies the strength and tenacity of IRONMAN triathletes,” says CEO of The IRONMAN Group Andrew Messick.

Now let’s get into some of the specs… Like its 2020 predecessor, the new Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN measures to 44 millimetres in diameter and is entirely engineered from Breitlight, an innovative in-house material designed by the Swiss watch manufacturer. It promises to be 3.3 times light than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel as well as being significantly more durable with resistance to scratches, traction and corrosion. It also stands out for its antimagnetic and anti-allergic properties, as well as its thermal stability, which gives it a warmer feel than metal. Topping the case is a bi-directional rotating bezel with engraved compass points. At three o‘clock, a tactile moulded non-screw locked crown with two gaskets delivers easy grip and manipulation in all environments while guaranteeing a healthy water resistant rating of 100 metres.
At the centre, the Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN watch opts for a deep red dial which fades out nicely to black as it reaches the inner bezel with pulsometer scale. To pair, the chronograph counters are dressed in black and detailed with red-accented hands. The hour and minutes hands are also coated in Superluminova and the IRONMAN logo is subtly included on the small seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Powering the design is the Breitling Caliber 82, a COSC-certified thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement which claims to be ten times more precise than regular quartz and offers a battery life of approximately three to four years. The Endurance Pro Finisher follows suit but pairs its black dial with gold accents, a black rubber strap and a special case back with a unique IRONMAN Finisher Series engraving.

Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic

The Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic is easily one of the most respected pilot’s watches on the market. First conceived in the 1950s, these watches were no-nonsense tools meant to help a pilot calculate ground speed or fuel consumption on the fly (hah). The Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 41 watch was an effort on the brand’s part to blend some of the expected Navitimer features into a highly functional timepiece, all the while maintaining that classic design we know and love. The Navitimer 1 draws much of its inspiration from the Navitimer 806, a simple three-hander released in the 1950s. The Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 41 is being released in two different 41mm-case versions. The first is an all stainless steel construction, and the second has a stainless steel case but is accompanied by an 18k red gold bezel. (Previously, these were only available in 38mm, seen here.) The Stainless steel version will be available in one of three dial colors: black, blue, and silver, whereas the red gold bezel version will be available with a silver or anthracite dial. The watch will be powered by Breitling’s chronometer-certified Caliber 17, which ticks away at 4hz and boasts a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is resistant to 3bar (30 meters) and will be available on either an alligator strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
We have several new releases from Breitling to announce today, and one of them just happens to be the first ladies’ watch of the the Georges Kern era. It’s a 38 mm three-hand automatic interpretation of what is arguably Breitling’s best-known design, the Navitimer. What this watch is not is a chronograph – a complication long associated with the Navitimer – though it does retain the familiar slide rule bezel. The Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 comes in steel as well as steel and gold. The available dial colors include blue, silver and black. It joins 43mm and 41mm Navitimers that also launch this year in Basel.
While this watch is being put forward as the first ladies’ timepiece to debut under Breitling’s new management, I’m fairly certain that plenty of vintage-watch-loving guys out there will find the 38mm diameter appealing. I, for one, plan to try one on later this week in Basel. At 38mm across x 10.10 mm thick, this watch is right in line with vintage sports watch dimensions. And the colors are far from what one might describe as “feminine.” If you read the Breitling website closely, you can see that Breitling is itself stoking the sense of ambiguity here.

On the Breitling Navitimer 1 Automatic 38 product page of the Breitling web site, you can read this: “Stylish and compact, the Navitimer 1 Automatic (38 mm) may be the smallest in diameter, but it is the ultimate statement of elegance and sophistication. The ideal accessory for the adventurous Breitling woman, it is available in steel and steel & gold with dial in black, blue or silver.”

On the page announcing this and 44 other novelties for Baselworld, the watch is described thus: “Other exciting releases included the Navitimer Automatic in 38 mm, a gentlemen’s tool watch combining elegance with vintage inspiration.”

This is a good looking, if somewhat watered-down version of the Navitimer. Given its appealing looks and refreshingly toned down dimensions, I could see it doing quite well with women and men who like smaller-sized sports watches. I quite like the black-dialed version with matching black date disc at six o’clock. I haven’t tried any of the new Breitlings on yet, but this looks like it’s going to be the most wearable of the lot.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Stainless Steel

The 42mm Chronomat, which was renewed last year, is now available with the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Japan Edition Black Mother of Pearl, which uses the MOP dial, which has already gained popularity in Japan. So far, Breitling Japan has introduced a Japanese limited model of MOP dial almost every year, and among them, Chronomat using black MOP dial is very popular.

 The basic specifications are the same as the base Chronomat B01 42, and the rouleaux bracelet revived in the current model is iconic. It features a rider tab, a brand logo without wings, and a dial tone with a limited number of colors. The same applies to the see-through back, and you can see the in-house Cal.01 from the back. The price is 1,166,000 yen (tax included), and of course it will be sold only in Japan, and it is already possible to purchase and make reservations.
I was wondering if it wasn’t for me this year. The reason is that the Super Chronomat was just announced last month ( see Introducing Breitling Super Chronomat 2021 New ), and the limited edition MOP dial is also at Breitling’s other pillar collection, the Navitimer. This is because it just appeared in December last year (” Introducing Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Black Mother of Pearl Japan Edition 2020 New” ).
Personally, I think the Black MOP dial looks good on the Chronomat. The MOP itself is rarely used in men’s models, but Breitling, which has many male fans, has done it, and it has a strong impression that it has become a popular model. And the MOP dial, which is already assertive, should have a minimalist design as a whole.

 The Navitimer MOP limited model felt novel when it was installed for the first time, and it is also powerful as a product. However, for me, the red chrono needle on the MOP dial seems to be a little toe-match, and I am still attracted by the design of this chronomat. 

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 The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 believes that it has taken the collection to the next era by gaining a new (or rather revived) personality of the rouleaux bracelet. Isn’t the MOP dial, which is a slightly authentic approach, more attractive if it is a watch that has evolved more modernly? 

 In the current model, the Chronomat is no longer just for men, and there is a depth of design that allows you to make more use of these dial expressions. Many Chronomat fans already have one MOP dial model, but I would love to see the finish of this unit after the new generation.