Bell & Ross BR V2-94 FULL LUM

Following in the footsteps of the recently launched BR 03-93 GMT, Bell & Ross has released its latest luminous experiment. Using a now relatively familiar case design and configuration (via the Vintage collection chronograph style seen in the base BR V2-94 design), the new BR V2-94 Full Lum nonetheless presents a novel take on the look with its contrasting, super-luminous style. The watch comes as a follow-up to 2020’s luminous novelties, most notably the BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum and BR03-92 HUD Limited Edition, the former of which, like today’s model, also uses multiple contrasting colors of lume to produce its namesake “Full Lum” look.
While not as significant as the first external-bezel, square-GMT from the brand, it does nonetheless signal Bell & Ross’ continued interest in both uncommon colorway options within its greater catalog and the use of highly luminous, contrasting dials to create these unique colorways. This model joins an already diverse set of watches currently offered within the BR V2-94 Full Lum series and the larger Vintage collection produced by the brand. While stark in its look to the outside viewer, it fits right at home in the context of Bell & Ross’ other creations.
Taking a closer look at its details, we first come to a familiar case silhouette, as seen in other V2-94 chronographs. With a case diameter of 41mm, 100-meter water resistance, tapered lugs, screw-down pushers, and a fixed bezel with an anodized black insert, it feels like a sturdy, diver-adjacent chronograph working to channel a novel take on the classic tool-watch format.

For the straightforward look of the case, it’s once we get underneath the domed, anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal that we see the true star of the watch. With a dial completely painted in luminescent green, even in full light, the surface has a bright, attention-grabbing style. Then, when introduced to low-light conditions, the style really shines, with the black paint starkly contrasting to the bright Super-LumiNova green. Reading the time is a highly legible exercise, accented in small degrees – though most noticeably at the nine o’clock 30-minute chronograph sub-dial – with a contrasting lume color.
As for its other, less luminous details, the configuration of the dial is in line with previous BR V2-94 Full Lum chronographs by the brand, complete with oversized Arabic numerals on the top and bottom of the dial, large sub-dials at the other two quarter-hour positions, a small non-luminous date window at the 4:30 position, and aviation-inspired hands at the center of the face. It might have been interesting for Bell & Ross to add one non-green element, possibly in a red-tipped seconds pointer or something along those lines, but the brand may have decided the style of the look was stark enough and left it be.

As for its movement, Bell & Ross stuck with the standard BR-CAL.301 they have used to great effect in the series (the caliber is based upon the ETA 2894-2 and provides 42-hours of power reserve). Like the mechanism used in the previously released GMT, this automatic chronograph caliber helps provide easily serviceable, no-nonsense mechanical power to the watch, helping keep the focus on the functionality of the highly luminous wearer.

Jacob and Co Astronomia Solar Replica

Jacob & Co‘s Astronomia Solar Zodiac receives its biggest design overhaul since the audacious horological creation first dropped in 2014.

Under a vast sapphire crystal dome, the Astronomia Solar Zodiac Black features the design’s telltale rotating three-arm carousel serving as a mount for a 60-second flying tourbillon, 60-second rotating rose gold, and blue lacquered globe, and three other hand-painted planets as well as a self-orientating dial for hours and minutes. The whole assembly completes a single clockwise rotation every 10 minutes.

But unlike previous versions (Conor McGregor recently showed off a new $1m diamond-set Astronomia) the background, here formed from black aventurine glass and set with a semi-precious solar system of planets, also rotates, completing a single, 360-degree rotation in the opposite direction at the same rate. At the center of the arrangement is a 2k Jacob-cut yellow citrine, with its 288-facets forming an almost perfect sphere representing the sun.

The planets are formed from cabochon-cut semi-precious stone half spheres: white Granite from Mercury, Rhodonite for Venue, Red Jasper for Mars, Pietersite for Jupiter, Tiger Eye for Saturn with 18k rose gold rings, blue Calcite for Uranus, and Lapis Lazuli for Neptune.
Some people probably don’t immediately associate Jacob & Co. with haute horology, but that doesn’t change the fact that the brand is responsible for some of the most outrageous, boldest, and indeed priciest, watches that you can buy today. Just take a look at their Grand Complication Masterpieces and you can find out-of-this-world watches like the Twin Turbo Twin Triple Axis Tourbillon Minute Repeater and the Epic SF24 Flying Tourbillon. However, the mainstay of Jacob & Co.’s Grand Complication Masterpieces has got to be the Astronomia, which has since spawned many different versions like the Clarity & Black watches. The latest one is called the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar which we’ll look at today. Again, this isn’t the first time we had the chance to handle an Astronomia watch. The last Astronomia watches we had the chance to play around with were the Astronomia Clarity & Black, but the new Astronomia Solar is even more over-the-top. We will get into the differences later, so let’s begin with the case first.
The case design remains largely the same. 18k rose gold is used to form a rough outline and the spaces in between are filled with sapphire to give owners an unobstructed view of the movement within. Case diameter of the Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar is 44.5mm, which makes it a little smaller than other Astronomia watches. Case thickness is 21mm, yeah, that’s not a typo. That’s because the case itself has to be quite big to accommodate the fantastic three-dimensional movement, plus it has a wildly domed sapphire crystal. So, the Astronomia Solar, like other Astronomia watches, is really thick. Don’t expect it to slip under a shirt sleeve, and rest assured that everyone will notice it on your wrist – but of course, you already knew that. Water resistance is just 30m, which is understandable for a watch of its complexity. Moving on, one thing some might notice is that there is no visible crown. Well, setting the time and winding the movement is actually done using two fold-out 18k rose gold “bows” on the case back. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to take photos of the case back but it is similar to the system you’ll find in some previous Astronomia iterations. Of course, the eye is going to be drawn to the whimsical and elaborate world created within the dial.

Like other Astronomia watches replica, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar’s movement is exposed for all to see on the dial. There is a lot to see, and also a lot that moves. To begin, the movement actually consists of three separate arms; one arm leads to a sub-dial that displays the time; another leads to a flying tourbillon; and finally, the third arm leads to a globe. Though overshadowed, time is quite legible, the blued hour and minute hands are fairly large and contrast brilliantly against the 18k rose gold skeletonized sub-dial. The flying tourbillon features the logo of Jacob & Co. on the tourbillon bridge and it actually rotates on two axes. Yes, this isn’t an ordinary tourbillon, it is a bi-axial tourbillon. Horizontally, it makes a single rotation every 60 seconds. Vertically, it makes a rotation once every 10 minutes. Finally, the globe, which is made out of rose gold and blue lacquer, rotates on its own axis once every 60 seconds. It also makes a rotation around the dial once every 10 minutes because the entire structure or movement itself rotates clockwise and makes a rotation once every 10 minutes. But that’s not all, because the aventurine base, which is decorated to look like the night sky, rotates counter-clockwise and makes a rotation every 10 minutes. With the Astronomia Solar, Jacob & Co. wanted to create a model of our solar system in a watch. So in the middle of the dial is a large 1.5 carat Citrine crystal in a Jacob Cut that represents the sun. Jacob & Co. also uses three other stones in amethyst, garnet, and smoked quartz to represent other planets. These planets all rotate along with the movement, making a single rotation of the dial once every 10 minutes. The end result of all these rotating elements is stunning to behold and it does look as if you have a mini solar system spinning on your wrist. The movement that enables all this is in-house caliber JCAM19. Comprising of 444 components, the movement is unique because it is mostly constructed out of titanium. Since the mainspring has to drive so many rotating components, titanium is used to reduce the load on the mainspring. The tourbillon beats at 4Hz, and the JCAM19 has a power reserve of 48 hours. It is immaculately finished too, with sand-blasted and beveled bridges, circular graining on the gear train components, and polished countersinks and screws.

Jacob and Co Astronomia Sky Sapphire Mars Satellite Tourbillon

A t Baselworld 2016, Jacob & Co. introduced a brand-new version of the crowd-pleasing Astronomia mega-watch called the Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Celestial Panorama Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon.
The Astronomia Sky Sapphire Mars replaces the magnesium globe with the fiery red planet of Mars, complete with a satellite orbiting it as it turns. At the center of the movement, a lacquered hand-engraved titanium globe rotates on itself in 24 hours, inside a tinted half-domed sapphire crystal, showing night and day.
Down from the 50mm-wide size of the standard Astronomia, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky is “just” 47mm wide and 25mm thick. No one wears a watch like this because it is slim, but Jacob & Co. was called upon to make a more wearable version of its interesting Astronomia.
The Astronomia Tourbillon represents the very essence of Astronomia: it is a cinematic sculpture animated by its four-arm movement construction that rotates and floats through the sapphire-bound space inside its spectacular case.
At Baselworld 2016, Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky . introduced a brand-new version of the crowd-pleasing Astronomia mega-watch called the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Celestial Panorama Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon. Not intended as a replacement, but rather as a supplement to the original Jacob & Co. Astronomia (hands-on here), the “Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky” adds a few complications and actually has a smaller case size.

Down from the 50mm-wide size of the standard Astronomia, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky is “just” 47mm wide and 25mm thick. No one wears a watch like this because it is slim, but Jacob & Co. was called upon to make a more wearable version of its interesting Astronomia. Also note that our images of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Celestial Panorama Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon are of a pre-production prototype. One of the crucial missing elements in this prototype watch is a lack of antireflective coating on the sapphire crystals. This makes legibility rather poor and the watch details almost impossible to photograph through the crystal. Just mentioning that since “final” versions of the watch will not have these crystal glare issues as much.
This debut version of the Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Celestial Panorama Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon comes in a 18k rose gold case with a large domed sapphire crystal on top and a middle sapphire crystal ring around the side of the case. It makes viewing the interior of the watch and the movement very simple and attractive. And, yes, there is a pen to go with it. Well, actually these are pens to go with the Astronomia collection watches overall, and they were produced in collaboration with Jacob & Co. by Italian Visconti. These are also pre-production prototypes, and they will come in 18k rose gold and 18 white gold.
The entire point of the Astronomia was to offer a “four armed” movement which had a dial for the time (that spins to remain upright as the entire movement structure rotated on its axis), tourbillon (that technically moves on two axis points), a spinning seconds indicator, and a spinning orb opposite the seconds indicator. The Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky more or less retains this functionality (although the style and execution is different) and adds some astronomical complications.
Look around the periphery of the dial through the side of the case, and you’ll see a month indicator that uses a small hand which follows along the 12-month scale which goes entirely around the face. Now, look at the center of the four-armed movement structure, and on top of it you’ll find a small orb designed to look like the earth. This earth orb has a half-sphere shroud which moves around it in order to act as a day/night indicator. There are two axis points here to note, and they are the 24-hour rotating of the day/night indicator as well as the fact that the earth spins around each 20 minutes, since that is the rotation time of the four-armed movement. The small “globe” itself is produced from titanium and then hand-lacquered and engraved.
On the dial of the watch under the movement is a celestial star map with a series of zodiac indicators. This face is produced from blued titanium (similar to what we’ve loved in De Bethune watches for a long time) and has an oval “sky indicator” hand. The entire watch face actually makes a full rotation once per year, and the oval sky indicator hand makes a full rotation each sidereal day (about a day) in order to show the stars visible from the northern hemisphere.
As you can see, Jacob & Co. wanted to add a healthy amount of astronomical information to its Astronomia watch, and I think they did a nice job in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky, while actually making the timepiece smaller. Of course, the watch remains a serious “display piece” with most of the value being in the design and showiness of the fancy mechanics.
Compared to the original Astronomia, the movement design is a bit altered in the Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky Celestial Panorama Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon. The “Jacob Cut” diamond is here replaced with a Jacob Cut orange-colored sapphire that spins, making a full rotation each minute, and is shaped like an orb with 288 facet cuts. Opposite this Jacob Cut sapphire crystal is the second indicator hand which is meant to go with some wavy structures that together are intended to represent an orbiting satellite.
The movement inside of the watch is the exclusive to Jacob & Co (and again produced by Studio7h38) caliber JCAM11. Manually wound, the movement is made of 395 parts and operates at 3Hz (21,600bph) with a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is marvelous to look at with its complexity and focus on being visually entertaining to view in operation.
Combining 18k rose gold and blue (with a matching blue alligator strap), the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky has a decidedly regal look to it. This time around, Jacob & Co. did not include any diamonds on it, but if I know Mr. Arabo, then diamonds will be coming on a future version of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky. Like most of the watches produced by the brand, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky is part of a limited edition, and this one is just 18 pieces. I can’t wait to see the final version with the appropriate sapphire crystals, as I think this and the entire Astronomia watch collection represent some of the most interesting “out there” watches which are clearly very lavish, but aren’t the types of watches we immediately assume will look best on an oligarch. I can see the Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky on the wrist of a successful,

Replica Jacob Co Astronomia Tourbillon

Last year in 2014, Jacob & Co. debuted a very interesting watch with an extravagant movement they called the Replica Astronomia Tourbillon (debuted here). I didn’t get a chance to personally see the piece when they debuted it, and I am not sure if the original Astronomia Tourbillon case style (check the link above) was even actually delivered, since according to these new 2015 Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon pictures, there is a totally new case design. The sheer complexity of the movement in the watch requires a lot of tweaking to make it work and years of effort. For 2015, however, it looks like the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is back with a new case design as well as a very much “Jacob & Co.” version called the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette that comes with a lot of diamonds.

Below, you can see a video from last year of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon in action. Much of the movement is placed on a series of four arms that rotate around the entire dial each 20 minutes. Those arms also move to create other actions such as keeping the dial to indicate the time in the proper orientation, as well as operating the tourbillon. Taken together, the entire ballet of gear work in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is almost hard to believe. More so, as much as you may like or be ambivalent to what Jacob & Co. produces, you have to give it to them that they understand showmanship is an important part of the luxury watch industry.
Water resistance is merely 30m, that is clear for a watch of its complexity. Moving on, one thing some might notice is that there is no visible crown. Well, setting time and twisting the movement is actually done with two fold-out 18k rose gold “bows” on the situation back. Regrettably, we didn’t get to take photographs of the situation back but it is like the system you’ll find in some previous Astronomia iterations. Needless to say, the eye will be drawn to the whimsical and elaborate world created inside the dial.Like additional Astronomia watches, the Jacob & Co.. Astronomia Solar’s movement is exposed for all to see on the dial. There is a great deal to see, in addition to a whole lot that moves. To start, the movement really is made up of three separate arms; a single arm contributes to a sub-dial that displays the time; another results in a flying tourbillon; and ultimately, the third arm leads to a globe.Though overshadowed, time is rather legible, the blued hour and minute hands are rather big and contrast brilliantly from the 18k rose gold skeletonized sub-dial. The flying tourbillon features the emblem of Jacob & Co. on the tourbillon bridge and it really rotates on two axes. Yes, this isn’t a normal tourbillon, it’s a bi-axial tourbillon. Horizontally, it creates a single rotation every 60 seconds. Vertically, it creates a rotation once every 10 minutes.Finally, the planet, which can be made from rose gold and blue lacquer, rotates on its axis once every 60 minutes. It also makes a spinning around the dial after every 10 minutes because the whole structure or motion itself rotates clockwise and leaves a spinning once every 10 minutes. But that is not all, since the aventurine base, which is decorated to look like the night sky, rotates counter-clockwise and makes a rotation every 10 minutes.
Compared to the large sapphire crystal bubble dome over the initial Astronomia design, this new 2015 case makes a bit more sense. We are still looking at computer renders, but I am confident that the smaller pieces of sapphire crystal (which are now divided into a series of windows and one large one over the top) with the additional metal makes for a more plausible, wearable design. According to the brand, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is 50mm wide and 25mm thick. The case is in 18k rose gold, and there is a version with and without diamonds.

Notice the lack of crowns or pushers on the case? The movement is actually set and would via two “bow-style” fold out crowns on the rear of the case. The movement, which is, of course, the most interesting element of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon, is the exclusive to Jacob & Co. caliber JCEM01, with 48 hours of power reserve and a tourbillon that operates at 2.5Hz. Surprisingly, the movement is produced from just 235 parts – which seems very efficient given the complexity of the concept.
Technically, because the tourbillon moves around the entire dial each 20 minutes, it is a triple axis tourbillon. The other axis is the normal spinning you see from a tourbillon cage, as well as being spun in its connection arm. It sits opposite the dial for telling the time to help balance out the weight. The other two arms have a small hand-painted titanium representation of earth, and its opposite arm has a rotating disco ball that makes one full rotation each 60 seconds.

Really, disco ball? Well, that is what I am calling it. Jacob & Co. claims that the spherically cut diamond uses an exclusive cutting process debuted by Jacob & Co to cut a diamond with 288 facets. This round diamond is supposed to represent the moon – which makes me wonder what “night life” would be like on your planet if our moon was actually a large disco ball too. While the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon movement looks and sort of feels like it offers astronomical complications – it really only does so in concept. This is really a movement made for viewing pleasure, versus strict functionality – and in that, it succeeds.
If the “standard” Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon isn’t enough, you can opt for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette, which replaces the watch face’s night/space sky with baguette-cut diamonds. The diamonds are invisibly-set on the dial and lugs, totaling 342 stones weighting 16 carats. While I personally can’t see myself as a buying customer of a Jacob & Co. Astronomia the fact that there might be a few people out there who can enjoy this sort of wrist-worn mechanical entertainment delights me. Once again, Jacob & Co. set out to shock, amuse, and please… which is exactly what I feel that Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon replica is all about.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris

Earlier this morning, Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris announced its final novelties for Watches & Wonders 2021, and, alongside a brand new perpetual calendar, the brand also announced a new two-reference Calatrava collection, dubbed the “Clous de Paris.” Offered in rose gold and white gold as the reference 6119R and 6119G respectively, while the watches are certainly classic and conservative in their styling, this is a big move for the Calatrava range as these models use Patek’s new 30-255 PS movement, which is meant to be the next generation of their long-standing 215 PS hand-wound caliber. With applied markers and the traditional hobnail bezel, this is kind of your grandpa’s Patek – but only better.
Let’s get the easy stuff out of the way. Both references are 39mm wide, 8.08mm thick, and 46.9mm lug-to-lug (a shout out to Patek for including lug-to-lug in the tech specs). Both have sapphire display casebacks, alligator straps with pin buckles, 30 meters of water resistance, and are offered exclusively in a time-only format with a small seconds display. The rose-gold 6119R has a silver-grained dial with applied rose-gold “obus” markers and hands. Conversely, the 6119G has a grey-black dial with a vertical brushed finish and snailed finishing on the sub-dial.
Taking inspiration from the Calatrava’s impressive back catalog (which dates as far back as 1932 and the Ref. 96), these new Calatravas are a bit bigger but house a more suitably sized movement and have curved lugs for an ideal fit. In many ways, Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 has created the new 6119 as an amalgam of various past references while striving to make the watch as modern as possible. Thus, we find a brand new movement wrapped in a design that has elements of the Ref. 96D, the 3919, and the 5119. See a pattern?

The key to this redesign is most certainly Patek’s new Caliber 30-255 PS, which is meant to be an upsized version of the 215 PS to better suit a modern case size. As such, where the 215 PS measures 21.9mm across, the 30-255 offers a case-filling 31mm diameter, all while maintaining the 215 PS’s exceedingly thin profile of just 2.55mm. Perhaps even more impressively, Patek has managed to fit a pair of mainspring barrels in the 30-255, so its power reserve is 65+ hours (versus 44 hours for the 215 PS).
Hand-wound and beautifully finished, the 30-255 carries the Patek Philippe Seal, and with it, a guarantee of -3/+2 seconds per day. Additionally, and helpful for those wanting to watch their 6119’s accuracy, the movement can be hacked (pulling the crown stops the movement so that the time can be synchronized with another measure). So while the Calatrava remains welcomely old-school in terms of its design, the new movement helps to keep things fresh.
The other benefit is that a larger movement means the dial proportions and layout can be improved, especially when it comes to the small seconds display. Just take a moment to compare a mid-late 2000s 5119 against the new 6119 (above) – see how much lower in the dial they are able to set the seconds display? And how much more proportional the overall layout is? While I think the use of negative space and contrast on the 5119 is rather special, the 6119 looks much more balanced and decidedly more like a modern Patek.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 has always been the quiet core of Patek Philippe’s range, and these new models keep a lot of the Calatrava’s subtle appeal while ensuring the range has the technical footing to remain competitive and timely within the brand’s ever-evolving lineup.

Jacob & Co Astronomia Casino

The Replica Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino, also known as Jacob & Co. Astronomia Gambler, is another unique creation from Jacob & Co., conceived, designed and produced to be another step toward their goal of ruling over the segment of preposterously over-engineered, fun, ultra-high-end watches — because such a thing does exist and has, in fact, existed for years.
Whereas the mid-naughties were ruled by Harry Winston Opus watches — widely and rightfully credited as the original source of haute horlogerie creations that defied established limitations in design and functionality — the early teens were all about musical Jaquet Droz pieces, big-brand grand complications with perpetual calendars and chronographs and chiming mechanisms. (Some basic research will lead you to realize how the values of these things from the likes of Audemars Piguet, IWC, A. Lange & Söhne, and others have dropped off a cliff, sometimes down to 25 to 30% of their original retail price.) Why am I saying this? For one, because it was only recently that I came to realize how this was a frequent thing with “grand complications” and not just “one-off” lemons, and second, to show that so many of those who can afford these things are ready to take a blow on their purchases (or even if ready they are not, they are forced to, should they wish to exit a position in one of these watches).3
Why do these traditionally highly valued watches tend to take such a massive hit in their “value,” save for a select few references that are like currency? For one, because they were severely over-produced. When you can pick up an Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars “Equation of Time” Calendar for $28,000, even though it originally retailed for nearly $110,000, or an IWC Grande Complication Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition for $80,000, though it originally retailed for around $250,000, the relative abundance of these watches really strikes back. Another element to consider is that they simply are not fun anymore — not in the eyes of their original owners. The perpetual calendar kool-aid was strongly addictive back around the late ’00s, but when the only thing you can say for one of the key complications in your watch is, “Yeah, it’s not doing anything right now that you can see, but do you even know how complicated this is?” — that’s not a good sign.
Like it or not, the resale value of these once-upon-a-time grail status watches tells you more about their current desirability than I ever could. Those with six-figure amounts (in USD) available to burn on a watch purchase have migrated towards watches that are any one or more of the following: 1) novel, 2) fun, 3) expressive, 4) unique, 5) easy to appreciate. As always with watches, the more boxes you tick, generally speaking, the higher the price. The Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino has gone to extreme lengths to tick all those boxes, and then some.
With its — there’s no other word for it — ridiculous thickness of 27.9 millimeters (that is an inch and then some!), it’s a watch to be easily appreciated from up close… as well as the other side of the dinner table. It’s as discreet as sitting at dinner with a 1940s Francis Bacon fixed above your head, like a sail. The heft is validated by a multi-tier, multi-purpose JCAM29A caliber that comprises the Astronomia “vertical caliber” with its rotating platform of four rotating arms and a fully functioning, fully mechanical roulette complication that lives underneath it.
First, a few words about the Astronomia. Although Jacob & Co. has created many wildly different variations of this movement, it remains genuinely outstanding as far as its construction and function are concerned. Powered by a single mainspring with a respectable power reserve of 60 hours (can be longer or shorter depending on the model variation and added complications), essentially every component other than the mainspring barrel and the winding and setting “bows” (crown-replacements on the caseback) live up in this four-arm assembly.
The four arms carry a bi-axial tourbillon (that becomes a triple-axis tourbillon in ways I shall explain soon), a miniature planet earth in blue magnesium, a 1-carat, 288-facet Jacob cut diamond that also rotates around its own axis, and a differential driven sub-dial for the time. These four arms perform a rotation across the face of the watch together and simultaneously, in under 10 minutes — and it is this rotation that adds the third 10-minute axis for the tourbillon.
The time display rotates with this assembly, and so, to keep it from turning upside down as it orbits the face of the watch, the implementation of a differential was required. This allows for the sub-dial to remain level, for the hands to be driven, and for the entire assembly to rotate together.

As impressive the tourbillon and the rotating diamond may be, my favorite two feats in the Astronomia are this differential driven-time display and the fact that each two opposing arms are perfect counterweights of each another. That’s some cool “invisible engineering” that saves the movement from suffering excessive strains from an overweight arm that would pull or push the delicate-going train assembly.
The centerpiece of this very Astronomia is, of course, its roulette complication. At the press of the button at the 8 o’clock position of the case, the roulette wheel is forcefully spun, sending the little white ceramic ball flying. To keep it from entering the movement, the entire roulette wheel feature is set underneath a pane of sapphire crystal. The functioning of this complication feels reassuring at every press of the button, and the overall execution of its every detail is as spectacular as it damn well should be.
The wheel is crafted from 18k rose gold, with black and red enamel used for its 36+1 pockets. As I said, the thickness is 27.9mm, while the case measures 47mm in diameter. Strangely, because the lugs are so short and are angled steeply downward, the overall wearability is the Astronomia Casino’s other way of playing games with one’s senses. Looking at it directly from above, the overall effect is borderline manageable — even on my narrow wrists, 6.75 inches in diameter. However, once I start tiling the watch away from myself, it begins to reveal its bonkers case structure, topped off with a generously curved front sapphire crystal. Speaking of which, the case band is one single band of sapphire crystal which, when paired with the hollowed out lugs, makes for an easy way of appreciating the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Casino in operation.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is dead, long live the 5711. While news broke earlier this year that Patek would discontinue its most desirable model, arguably the most coveted watch in the world, the brand is already pushing its replacement out to center stage. As part of the kickoff of Watches and Wonders, the industry’s biggest trade show, Patek announced a quartet of new Nautilus models, including the successor to the navy blue Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 .

The star of the show is the 5711/1A-014, identical in nearly every way to the watch that came before it, but for one key difference: The Nautilus is switching out its traditional blue dial for one in olive green. If you’re new to the world of watch collecting, that might not sound like much. But in an industry that obsesses over millimeters, this change is enough to set the world on fire. This is the first time the shade has shown up on any Nautilus. The waitlist for the item—would-be buyers waited up to a decade to buy the discontinued 5711—starts now.
While the 5711/1A is in the class of if you know, you know, the other new Nautilus models aren’t shy about showing off. First up is the green-dial Nautilus with 32 baguette diamonds. If that’s not enough for you, there’s also a rose-gold version of the watch, loaded up with 2,553 diamonds across the dial, case, and bracelet. Much is made of watch brands listening to their customers and tailoring watches to those folks’ taste. Well, this looks like a case of Patek looking around at how celebrities already treat their Nautiluses—Lil Baby, Nicki Minaj, and Drake all own aftermarket bust-downs—and one-upping them.

And if green isn’t your thing, the last of the new Nautilus pieces sticks with the model’s signature navy blue, wedging it into a rose-gold case with a travel time feature. The piece is ready for a post-vaccination world: Windows marked “Home” and “Local” help the wearer keep track of the time in two time zones.
After discontinuing the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 , Patek president Thierry Stern told The New York Times, “We cannot put a single watch on top of our pyramid.” However, it wasn’t hard to predict a new range of the model was coming back. In the same interview, Stern divulged that the 5711 in particular “will have a victory lap. We will have a surprise final series of the Ref. 5711. And it is not what was left in the pipeline.” And Stern knows that, like all the 5711s that came before it, this watch will also be a heartbreaker. “How many there will be, I cannot give this information,” he said. “It won’t be enough for everyone who is waiting for one.”
Despite the new green model, Patek is still making good on its announcement that production of the 5711/1A will conclude in 2021. The green-dial Nautilus will be made during this year only, which should make the piece extremely limited. Think of this watch as a final send-off for the beloved model—and expect an even bigger Patek frenzy than usual.

Nomos Glashütte Club Campus

The Nomos Club Campus is something of a quirky one. The original Nomos Club can cite a relatively classic and simple dial as part of its strong visual appeal, yet the Campus simply doesn’t follow suit. A watch that looks perfect on more robust wrists. The classic from NOMOS Glashütte, and number one: the handcrafted and manually wound Alpha caliber, which keeps on running—highly precise and highly praised, you only need to wind it once every two days.
Any conversation about watches that offer good value for money is bound to include NOMOS. It’s been a core tenet of the brand since the very beginning and every year we get some new release that shocks us with its price tag to gears-and-hands ratio. With the new Club Campus though, NOMOS is trying to push it even further, offering a fun watch specifically targeted at first-time watch owners receiving their timepieces for special occasions. Oh, and they’re awesome.
Earlier this week we showed you the new Club Neomatik, which can be considered the sort of “premium” Club model with intricate dials, open casebacks, and NOMOS’s latest slim automatic movements inside. The Club Campus offers a lot of the same details and look, only at half the price.
There three Club Campus models, in two sizes. The first watch is a 36mm Club, with the familiar long-lugged case, and the other two are 38mm Clubs, all in stainless steel. This means you can now get the Club in 36mm, 37mm, 38mm, 40mm, and 41.5mm, so there’s really a size for everyone. The Nomos Club Campus are all three-handers, luminous hour and minute hands and a sub-seconds register down at six o’clock. The dials are California dials, meaning there are Arabic numerals up top and Roman numerals down below. This is something we’ve never seen from NOMOS before and I really dig it.
One of the ways NOMOS has kept the price down on these watches is that inside is the Alpha caliber. This is still an in-house NOMOS movement, but it’s the oldest movement in the collection and doesn’t feature the Swing System escapement or the Neomatik winding system. It’s a manually-wound movement with 17 jewels and a 43-hour power reserve. Don’t misunderstand me here – this is a great movement. It might not be the fanciest, but that’s not what this watch is about.
Smartly, NOMOS has opted for a closed caseback here. It’s another cost-savings method, but more importantly it takes the focus away from the movement and places it on the experience of wearing the watch (not to mention making it slimmer too). For this watch though there’s another benefit: the expanse of steel offers a space for custom engravings, whether it be for a gift or a self-purchase. NOMOS is offering complementary engraving on all Nomos Club Campus watches and turn-around time is just a week or two.
The three models offer different colors, but all in the same general family. The 36mm has slightly more emphasis on the red and pink tones, while the similar 38mm model more prominently displays the bright blue SuperLuminova. The Nacht model, with the dark dial, is the most distinctive, and offers something for those who don’t want a light silvered dial. Personally, I like all three models pretty equally and think it really comes down to personal style here.

Breitling Premier Heritage

During our last conversation a couple of months ago, CEO Georges Kern could hardly keep his cool as, bursting with pride, he gushed over Breitling’s 2021 novelties – without revealing anything, of course. As we are now finding out, his excitement was fully justified. This year, the Premier collection is extending to include six new – and extraordinarily chic – Breitling Premier Heritage Chrono models within three sub-lines.
In 2018, Kern presented the first Premier of the new era. This was surprising in the sense that prior to the relaunch, the model was not particularly on anyone’s radar. The Premier collection is based on a line originally conceived by Willy Breitling in the 1940s, which picked up on the achievements of his predecessors alongside his personal vision of a modern and elegant watch. This involved a combination of Léon Breitling’s tachymeter display, and Gaston Breitling’s chronograph with a separate pusher at 2 o’clock. Willy Breitling further complemented these features by adding his two separate chronograph pushers at 4 o’clock, creating a stylish watch with a sensual case and low-key dial.
In his time, Willy Breitling was an important supplier of prominent military and pilot watches – although he increasingly yearned for normality after years of war. He wanted to bring back a sense of optimism, both for himself and others, through beautiful objects. Furthermore, having a good sense of style was an obsession for Willy Breitling. Therefore, it’s no surprise that the first 1943 Premier was Willy Breitling’s dream come true; a stylish watch that simultaneously incorporated the technical finesse of the company’s history.
It’s possible that Georges Kern sees himself as the cross-generational ambassador of this historically important model. Upon reissuing the line back in 2018, Kern respectfully adopted the achievements of the company’s founders, while also making subtle tweaks and bringing the Premier up to date technically.
Now, he is continuing on the line of Willy Breitling’s thoughts on elegant watches by introducing several new features. That said, Kern also left room for some fashionable touches. This involved keeping the Premier as a watch that can serve as a dress watch, yet be sporty enough to be equally wearable with a suit as a leather jacket. Therefore, the once baton indices are now Arabic numerals, and the hands are becoming even more classic. Additionally, new precious metals, as well as new functions, are making their way into the Premier watches. Furthermore, all new models come with a fine alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching.
The Breitling Premier chronograph, previously measuring 42 mm, is now available in the form of two 40 mm models. This is essentially a “back to the roots” move from Breitling – the historical Premier models measured a smaller 36-38 mm. Of course, this would simply not be a fashionable size today.
Furthermore, the calibre also sort of goes back the model’s roots, as it were, now featuring a classic manual winding mechanism. The new chronographs use Breitling’s manufacture calibre B09, using the manufacture Calibre 01 as its base. This is the same movement that powers both the Navitimer Ref. 806 and AVI Ref. 765. Additionally, the choice of a manual winding movement means that the open caseback is a particularly delightful feature.
The expansion of the Premier chronograph also introduces several new colour and material combinations. One of the two models showcases a pistachio-green dial in a stainless-steel case. Meanwhile, the second model has a silver-coloured dial with an 18-carat red-gold case. Both dials are impressively well done (in fact this applies to all models). For one thing, Breitling keeps the subdial counters in the same colour tone as the dial. Furthermore, the Arabic numerals and the “B” from Breitling’s logo are not simply printed, but rather neatly applied. As with the Arabic numerals, it was a clever move to switch up the baton hands in favour of cathedral hands.
The Breitling in-house calibre B09 is COSC-certified and offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The new Premier B09 Chronographs come with a golden-brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. The price for the steel version is 7,400 euros, while the red-gold version is 16,200 euros.
It was perhaps foreseeable that the Premier chronographs would be given a drag pointer sooner or later. After all, as a chronograph specialist, the horology house has something to prove in this complex field. Willy Breitling introduced the first Breitling Duograph back in 1944. The name Duograph, meaning two chronograph hands, initially established itself at Breitling in place of the more common terms “drag pointer” or “rattrapante”.
Here comes the Premier Duograph of the 21st century. Breitling has come up with a new calibre for the watch, the Breitling manufacture calibre B15. The movement uses the in-house rattrapante calibre B03, but it is a manually winding, rather than automatic calibre, which measures a solid 15.35 mm in height. The integrated crown pusher for the drag pointer function is a special feature previously used on the historic models.
The new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42 is available either with a glossy deep blue dial in a stainless-steel case, or with a black dial and 18-carat red-gold case. The Breitling in-house movement B15 with manual winding is also COSC-certified and offers an approximate 70-hour power reserve.
Both versions come with a brown or black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. The price for the steel version is 9,350 euros, while the red-gold version costs 19,200 euros.
George Kern keeps reviving lost treasures from the Breitling archives. Within the Premier collection, Willy Breitling also introduced a sub-line named the “Datora”. In addition to the classic chronograph displays, it also integrated a day, date and moonphase display.
Today, one would consider it somewhat atypical for Breitling. Yet for Georges Kern, it embodies his original goal as he took over and turned Breitling around as CEO and co-owner; to provide a worthy stage for the brand’s immense range of historic models.
If you take a look at the Datora Reference 805 from 1946, you’ll see how astonishingly similar the new model is to its historic counterpart. Breitling is simply adding a shine to it through a number of small new details, as well as the inclusion of the in-house automatic calibre B25.
The new Datora 42 has a champagne-coloured (Breitling actually calls it “copper-coloured”) dial, and comes in a stainless-steel case. At first glance, the watch evokes Patek’s Ref. 5270P or Lange’s Datograph. However, as the devil is in the detail, and in this sense, one should take a second look to get to see the subtle differences.
The second variation of the new Datora 42 has a silver-coloured dial and an 18-carat red-gold case. Both models come with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. Powering them is the new Breitling in-house automatic calibre B25 with a 48-hour power reserve, and is COSC-certified. Its price is 11,350 euros in steel or 22,200 euros in red-gold.
The new models are all very well executed. However, Breitling has to be aware that the tall height of the Premier might not be to everyone’s taste. Due to the modular construction of the movement, the Duograph and Datora, with their 15.35 mm heights, aren’t exactly watches made to flatter the wrist. With the new Premier Heritage Chrono collection, Breitling takes an interesting step in the future of its brand development. The collection enables a whole new approach at the horology house, which rested on the success of a few icons for far too long. The new Premier is a game changer that is likely to entice a whole new clientele – we picture it adorning the wrists of successful start-ups entrepreneurs or young creatives – from London to Tokyo.

Bell and Ross BR 03-93 GMT Replica Watch

2021 is the year of further strengthening the bond with its core business and 1st passion, Aviation. It is also the year Bell & Ross rethinks its GMT Instrument and launches a new version. Redesigned, more modern, more functional, more readable.
Its black sunray dial contrasts with its large white photoluminescent numerals and indexes. This color scheme is ingrained in Bell & Ross’ DNA. It echoes the colors used for on-board flight instruments.
The new Replica BR 03-93 GMT timepiece provides the time in three different locations around the world. For the first time, the iconic square shape is completed with a bi-directional bezel.
Reference: BR0393-BL-ST/SCA

· Case: 42 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour scale and black and red two-colour anodised aluminium ring.

· Dial: Black. Indices coated in Super-LumiNova. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova-filled hour and minute hands and 24-hour hand.

· Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

· Water-resistance: 100 metres.

· Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.303. Automatic mechanical.

· Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand.

· Straps: Black coloured calfskin leather and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

· Buckle: Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.
Being a brand specialized in aeronautical instruments and pilot’s watches, Bell & Ross somehow needs to have GMT models in its collection, being probably the most useful complication for aircraft pilots… and frequent travellers. And, without surprise, this complication was already found onboard the BR instrument collection as well as in the Vintage line. Today, the Paris-based brand is updating its square traveller’s watch, with a new version of the BR 03-93 GMT. Redesigned, more modern, more functional, more readable… Let’s have a look at this new edition.
So what you see above is the version of the BR 03-93 GMT replica watch that you could get until now, and the one that’s being replaced by the watch we’ll discover below. What we have here is a 42mm x 42mm stainless steel watch, with a matte black dial, orange accents on the central GMT hand and a fixed, engraved stainless steel 24h scale. But GMT watches at Bell & Ross have recently evolved to offer more functionality and better legibility. For instance, the BR V2-93 GMT from the Vintage collection is equipped with an identical central GMT hand, but also benefits from a third time zone display with a rotating, bi-directional bezel. And that’s what comes now on the updated BR 03-93 GMT.
Being part of the instrument collection, you won’t be surprised to find back the emblematic square case of the brand, which is still measuring 42mm across. If the overall shape hasn’t changed much with the update, the case appears slightly more refined in its execution. The case is circular brushed on top with its 4 aligned and functional screws being polished. The sides of the case have a large polished bevel to add dynamism. The central case is vertically brushed. Identical in proportions to the previous iteration, the new BR 03-93 GMT remains also identical for its specifications, with a 100m water-resistance, a solid steel caseback and a screw-down crown.
The most important difference in this update, you’ve probably guessed, is the presence of a bi-directional rotating bezel. Allowing to display a third time zone, it is made of stainless steel with 24 clicks, and the insert is anodized aluminium with a two-tone red and black colour scheme. Thus, it means that in addition to the central hand that displays a second time zone, the bezel enables reading a third time zone. Rotating it clockwise subtracts hours and anti-clockwise adds hours.
The dial has also been refreshed. It now comes with a sunray-brushed pattern. The Arabic numerals are applied and vertically brushed and the hour markers are now filled with Super-LumiNova. Classic B&R luminous hands are still used for the hours (local time) and minutes, and the additional hour hand (home time) is now painted red to match the bezel. The date is displayed at 4h30, in a circular tone-on-tone window.
Inside the case of this updated Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT no evolutions, as it is still powered by the well-known and robust BR-CAL.303 – which is based on a Sellita SW-330. This automatic movement, with 4Hz frequency and 42h power reserve, is what we typically call a desk GMT, as the crown independently sets the GMT hand by one-hour increments, and not the local time hand (as in a Rolex GMT for instance).