HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda

Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda , a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to eight pieces.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda features a 48mm diameter titanium case, is water-resistant up to 30 meters, and mirrors the shape and size of previous Conical Tourbillon models. The case is coated in white ceramic, extending to the titanium side grilles and frame. This finish continues onto the crown, which includes a black DLC titanium insert. The dial is topped by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal with AR treatment, showcasing a white agate chapter ring with three-dimensional, black-coated indices treated with Super-LumiNova, along with the HYT logo at the 6 o’clock position. The HYT’s signature retrograde hour indication is represented by black and white liquids propelled by bellows inside a borosilicate capillary tube. Minutes are indicated by a matte black pointer hand with white Super-LumiNova.
At the centre, attention is captivated by the conical tourbillon, developed for the series by master watchmaker Eric Coudray, and the “chaotic animation” featuring three 2.5mm white agate spheres and smaller counterweights, along with two white and four black spheres, each 1.5mm in diameter, within the futuristic tourbillon cage. The conical tourbillon completes a clockwise revolution every 30 seconds. The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda movement boasts various inclinations: the spring balance is inclined at 30 degrees to the horizontal, the escape wheel at 15 degrees, and the pallet at 23 degrees. Three large white agate spheres rotate at different speeds on the cage’s periphery, with the first completing four turns per minute, the second five turns per minute, and the third six turns per minute, all clockwise. This design demonstrates the stability of the conical tourbillon’s rate, creating a mesmerizing spectacle perfectly complemented by the black-and-white aesthetic.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is powered by the manually wound calibre 701-TC, which comprises 533 components, the same as in the earlier variants of the timepiece. This movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 40-hour power reserve. The exhibition caseback reveals the contemporary movement, which features black and rhodium-plated finishes and distinctive bellows.

Nomos Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit DXM

I’ve been waiting to test this watch for a while. The first time I saw the NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit, it was on the wrist of a colleague over a year ago, and I was enthralled. The second time I saw it, I was in London for Salon QP, where I subsequently filmed this video and declared it “already in the running for the best of 2011.” Then, I saw it again at Basel this year, and for the first time, the watch was “official.” Still, official doesn’t mean available, and now, after spending one week with this Glashütte-bred dual-timezone model of modernity on my wrist, I can say that it is everything I though it would be. I’m talking about a great looking watch from a real watch company with a fantastic dual-timezone complication and a level of finishing well beyond its price tag.
Who is NOMOS? It’s a brand that likes to do things their own way. They make all of their movements in-house, and yet prices range from only $1,250 to $5,880. Their designs are purely bauhaus – you either love them or you don’t – and they were the first brand to use the Glashutte seal, before their neighbors across the road. NOMOS believes in sustainability, has produced a magazine and newspaper all internally, and has amassed an impressive modern art collection. They call it like they see it and their website is one of my favorites in the industry.

They also produce beautiful watches. The Zürich Weltzeit is the most complicated piece NOMOS has released, and honestly, the first one that really caught my eye. Their more traditional models are fantastic watches, though perhaps a little staid for my tastes (and my tastes are actually really staid). But the Zürich Weltzeit is something new for NOMOS.

The watch is sized at 39.9mm and features one of my absolute favorite complications in the world of horology, a second time zone. If one looks at the watch, you’ll see a city ring with 24 city names on it. You’ll also see a funny looking German word at 3 o’clock that you may not understand. The watch, despite its minimalist design, looks fairly complicated. The thing is, it’s not.

The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. “Heimat” loosely translate to “homeland”So, you see your home time at 3 o’clock, right? So then what do the big hands show you? Well, that is your local time zone. There are 24 cities shown on this disc slightly recessed from the main dial, each representing a time zone. To change time zones, you simply press the button at 2 o’clock to adance both the city disc and the large hour hound. Again, it sounds complicated, but it’s really not. Your local time zone is displayed at 12 o’clock, your local time via the main hour hand, and your home time at 3 o’clock. Watch the video below to see how easy it is to advance time zones on this NOMOS. So, in the case of the video above, we are taking the world’s fastest flight from Brazil to Japan. In the beginning, our local time displays 10:56 (watch set to Fernando de Noronha), our home time is set to Eastern Standard Time (we’re based in NYC, after all) showing 7:56AM, and by the end of the video, we are landing in Tokyo, displaying 9:56.

Advancing the time zone is a really satisfying experience both tactically and visually. The city disc aligns to the red arrow at 12 o’clock perfectly each time, and the click of the button at 2 o’clock is very smooth. But, one important point must be made about what this watch is not.

What this watch is not is a true world-timer. A world-timer, like the impressive new one from Vacheron Constantin, shows the wearer the time of day in at least 24 different time zones simultaneously. The NOMOS only shows the time of day in two time zones simultaneously, but gives the impression of 24. This isn’t a bad thing, but most people, when looking at the Zürich Weltzeit assume it can display 24 time zones, and it simply can not. This is really a GMT watch that happens to have a 24-hour city ring. Still, it is the implementation of the city ring that gives this watch its charm. As mentioned above, all NOMOS watches feature true in-house calibers. By that, I don’t mean an ETA 2892 completely reworked in Glashutte, but rather a concretely manufacture movement that is all their own. Plates and screws are built by NOMOS at its factory. They maintain a five person team to develop movements year-round, and they believe in a level of aesthetics to their movements that is seldom seen in this price range. The brass plates are rhodium finished with diagonal Glashütte striping while other components feature circular graining. They use fire-red rubies for jewel bearings and palette stones, and bright blue steel screws that are hardened in their own kiln at 300° Celsius.

The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch) The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch)

The polished steel bezel and multi-tiered dial are very sleek on this watch. Though, with the hour markers small and sitting outside the city ring, the watch can be slightly difficult to read at a glance. You can see below that there is considerable space between the hour hand and the hour markers. I do suspect things would get easier with time as one becomes more accustomed to the configuration. Still, excellent attention has been paid to the “little” things on this such, such as the fantastic circular graining on the seconds register.
The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is not going to win you a pissing contest at the bank – I can promise you your Managing Director won’t know, or care, what it is. It’s not going to get you attention when you’re at a bar in Miami – turn to Hublot for that. It will not say “I’ve Arrived” the way so many people look for with a watch in this price range. If you’re looking for something that can do all this, buy a Rolex, a decent vintage Sub will cost you the same as this NOMOS.

All watches from NOMOS, but this one in particular, are for someone not looking for accolades, but rather subtle excellence in both form and function, and a watch that will please you and you alone each time you glance down at it. This watch is the type of watch that should be worn by a man who travels the world and thinks nothing of it; a man who is at home in Zurich, Hong Kong, Chicago, and Santiago, and knows the best places to eat in each without having to use his iPhone. It was made for the type of person who reads Monocle Magazine not to impress people on the train, but who genuinely cares about stalwarts of sustainable design in an obscure Scandinavian city. This watch is for a man who appreciates that fact that this watch features an in-house manufacture movement with hand-finishing, but doesn’t need everyone around him to know how much he paid for it. The NOMOS is a watch for a man who knew exactly who Nick Horween was before he saw that this watch came on Horween leather. The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is the most expensive watch the brand has made to date. In the US, it will retail for $5,880. That is is a lot of money for a NOMOS, but not a lot of money for the complication and finish. The watch, like the brand itself, is quirky and excellent. It represents true fine watchmaking at an affordable price with little sacrifice. You won’t see these watches every day, which is a great thing – they are sold in only five retailers in the United States (all listed below).

NOMOS is, in my opinion, the leader of the democratization of haute horology and one of the brands to keep an eye on over the coming years. Its Zürich Weltzeit is its magnum opus so far – despite the watch with all its German efficiencies lacking true sex appeal – if you are a fan of the watch aesthetically, you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value out there today. This is a real watch guy’s watch with a dose of international chic, and I absolutely love it.

Hamilton Adds NATO Strap Options To The Adventure-Ready Khaki Field Expedition Watch

The classic field watch may have been around for over a century, but that doesn’t mean there’s no room for improvement — and Hamilton has done just that. Hamilton has been the first name in field watches since the inception of the genre, and with the Khaki Field Expedition, it’s clear just how far the humble field watch has come. With a compass bezel and five new looks, including a NATO textile strap, the Khaki Field Expedition is ready for adventure.
If you’re in the market for a field watch, there’s a good chance Hamilton’s Khaki line will be your first port of call. With over 60 models, from divers to chronographs, the core of the Khaki line is the classic field watch. Characterized by large Arabic markers and an emphasis on reliability and legibility, Hamilton’s Khaki field watches retain the vintage military design cues of its forebears and are built for a life in the outdoors.
The Khaki Field Expedition can trace its lineage to watches like Hamilton’s Officer’s Trench Watch worn by soldiers during WWI. Large numerals, simplicity of design, and, above all, reliability, were key to timing operations in the field. In the ensuing decades, Hamilton would continue to produce field watches for soldiers. When soldiers returned from duty, many found that the characteristics that made these watches so reliable translated seamlessly to outdoor pursuits during peacetime. First released in 2023, the Khaki Field Expedition took Hamilton’s timeless Khaki field watch blueprint and added a compass bezel, along with oversized hands and indices, to create an all-terrain, adventure-ready version of the already robust and capable field watch.
For a watch built for outdoor adventure, the addition of a compass bezel was an inspired choice. Following the old adage, “two is one and one is none,” the compass bezel provides a backup compass on your wrist while navigating the backcountry. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, just keep the dial level and point the hour hand in the direction of the sun. Next, set the South marker to the mid-point between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker. Once set, you now have a rough estimation of direction to help you navigate — a nice failsafe in case of emergency.
Housed in either a 41mm or 37mm stainless-steel case, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is available in three distinctive dial colors: classic black, crisp white, and deep blue. Regardless of which one you choose, the hands and indices are coated with creamy tan Super-LumiNova that provides a vintage charm. Originally offered with only a choice of bracelet or leather strap, the Hamilton Khaki Field now adds a range of NATO strap options — the perfect choice for venturing into the great outdoors. The new NATO straps add plenty of versatility, whether you pair the white dial with a khaki NATO for a vintage look, the black dial with a dark gray NATO for a sleek and stealthy look, or aim for a color-matched aesthetic with navy on navy.
A field watch has always been a rugged and versatile option for venturing into the outdoors, but the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition takes this classic design to a new level with the integration of a compass bezel and the new option of custom NATO straps for added comfort and security in the field.

Nomos Glashütte Ludwig 75 Jahre Grundgesetz

Der 23. Mai 1949 ist ein wichtiger Meilenstein für die Bundesrepublik Deutschland. An diesem Tag wurde das Grundgesetz vom Parlamentarischen Rat verabschiedet, das seitdem unsere politische Ordnung in Deutschland bestimmt. Jetzt feiert es seinen 75. Geburtstag. Zu Ehren dieses Jubiläums lanciert NOMOS Glashütte ein besonderes Uhrenmodell, um der Stabilität unseres Rechtsstaates Tribut zu zollen. Mit der Ludwig – 75 Jahre Grundgesetz bringt die deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur eine limitierte Sonderedition als Symbol unseres Wertesystems auf den Markt. Und das wird zum begehrten Sammlerstück.
Nach dem Ende des Zweiten Weltkriegs 1945 wurde Deutschland zu einer Demokratie aufgebaut. Grundlage der demokratischen Gesellschaftsordnung war und ist das Grundgesetz, das ab 1948 mit Einsetzen des Parlamentarischen Rates ausgearbeitet und am 23. Mai 1949 verabschiedet wurde. Das Grundgesetz legt die Grundrechte der Bürgerinnen fest und ist ein wichtiges Symbol für die Werte und Prinzipien, auf denen die Bundesrepublik Deutschland aufgebaut ist. Gerade in Zeiten, in denen verfassungsfeindliche Parteien erstarken und das, wofür Deutschland Jahrzehnte lang gekämpft hat, ins Wanken bringen wollen, ist eine Rückbesinnung auf unseren Wertekodex wichtiger denn je. Es gilt, die Rechte jedesjeder Einzelnen zu schützen und eine gerechte Gesellschaftsordnung aufrechtzuerhalten. Dafür müssen wir alle kämpfen. Genau deshalb hat sich auch die Uhrenmanufaktur NOMOS Glashütte als bekennende Pro-Bund-Verfechterin dazu entschlossen, mit der Ludwig – 75 Jahre Grundgesetz ein Zeichen für unsere Demokratie zu setzen. Die Rechnung geht auf.
Dass NOMOS Glashütte Demokratie buchstäblich großschreibt, beweist schon der Name der deutschen Uhrenmanufaktur. Nomos stammt aus dem griechischen und bedeutet Recht und Gesetz. Nicht ohne Grund hat sich die Marke für diesen Namen entschieden. NOMOS Glashütte bezieht selbst klare Kante zum politischen Geschehen in Deutschland und engagiert sich für die Wahrung unseres Rechtsstaates. Gegen Rechtsextremismus, gegen Fremdenfeindlichkeit. So hat die Uhrenmanufaktur während der Flüchtlingskrise 2015 beispielsweise mit einem großen Plakat am Hauptgebäude für die offene Politik von Angela Merkel geworben. Im Namen der Toleranz werden die Mitarbeitenden von NOMOS in internen Workshops regelmäßig gegen Parolen von rechts geschult. Auch wenn das in Glashütte im Osten von Deutschland, in dem fremdenfeindliche Stimmen immer lauter werden und die AfD mit Rekordstimmen gewählt wird, nicht leicht ist. Für ihr unerbittliches Engagement gibt es Anerkennung von der Bundespolitik. Erst Anfang März besuchte Bundeskanzler Olaf Scholz das Unternehmen in der sächsischen Kleinstadt, um ihm im Kampf für die Demokratie den Rücken zu stärken. NOMOS Glashütte weiß, dass wir unseren demokratischen Rechtsstaat achten und schützen müssen. Gerade in Zeiten, in denen vielerorts Demokratien ausgehöhlt oder beschädigt werden, sollte man die Stabilität der deutschen Verfassung feiern. Und das tut die Uhrenmanufaktur jetzt mit einer Sonderedition des Ludwig Modells.
Wie das Grundgesetz das Fundament unserer gesellschaftlichen und politischen Ordnung ist, sind Uhren von NOMOS Glashütte ein Garant für Qualität und Ästhetik. Das beliebte Ludwig Modell ist eine stilvolle Uhr ohne viel Tamtam und gerade deshalb der Inbegriff von unaufgeregter Eleganz. Das gilt auch für die Sonderedition zu Ehren des Grundgesetzjubiläums. Der limitierte Zeitmesser besteht aus sechs Editionen in verschiedenen Größen. Die Ludwig – 75 Jahre Grundgesetz ist als Handaufzugsuhr in den Durchmessern 33, 35 und 38 mm sowie als Automatikuhr in den Durchmessern 36, 39 und 41 mm erhältlich. Die Handaufzugsuhren enthalten das Manufakturkaliber Alpha von NOMOS Glashütte, die Automatikuhren sind mit neomatik-Werken (dem superflachen DUW 3001, beziehungsweise mit dem Datumskaliber DUW 6101) ausgestattet. Alle Modelle sind nach Chronometerwerten reguliert.
Die Sonderedition zu Ehren von 75 Jahren Grundgesetz unterschiedet sich vom Serienmodell durch viele kleine Besonderheiten. Auf dem Zifferblatt ist auf sechs Uhr ein Paragrafenzeichen gedruckt (bei Handaufzugsuhren in Schwarz, bei den neomatik-Uhren in Gold). Darunter findet sich der Schriftzug “75 Jahre Grundgesetz” anstelle von “Made in Germany” wie bei den normalen Modellen. Auf der Rückseite der Uhr wurde der erste Artikel des Grundgesetzes – “Die Würde des Menschen ist unantastbar” – eingraviert. Eine Hommage an den Wertekodex, mit dem das deutsche Grundgesetz unsere Demokratie zu schützen versucht. Das gelingt aber nur, wenn wir auch alle weiterhin dafür einstehen. 75 Jahre lang haben wir es geschafft. Jetzt heißt es weiterkämpfen.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato 42 mm

Conventional watch-snob wisdom – usually based on little more than photos somebody posted to the internet – says that the Girard-Perregaux Laureato looks like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe Nautilus had a baby.

But I’ve seen the baby. I’ve tried the baby on. And I can tell you that I do not share this sentiment.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato watch, like all watches, deserves to be judged on its own merits.
The Laureato was born in 1975, three years after the Royal Oak and one year before the Nautilus. Let’s call the Laureato “Stainless Steel with Integrated Bracelet Icon Watch Number Two.” (I would turn that into an acronym but SSIBIWNT is never gonna stick.) For context, let’s recall that the IWC Ingenieur was released in 1976 and the Vacheron 222 followed in 1977. Now that we have placed all of the heavy hitters on a timeline, it’s obvious to see that these timepieces (three of which were designed by Genta) were all made in the same trend bubble.

As HODINKEE’s new Style Editor, I am here to tell you that this is very normal behavior not only in the fashion world, but also in the broader design field. It’s standard for existing products to be variations on a theme, in dialogue with one another, and in this way the bulbous steel sports watch is to the 1970s what the dad sneaker is to the 2020s. They all look the same and, simultaneously, not. It’s the same in watches. You don’t see anybody calling out AP for using exposed screws on the bezel, a design feature that started way back in the beginning of the 20th century with the Cartier Santos Dumont.
If we look to the runway as a comparison, I could name 10 brands off the top of my head that copied Yves Saint Laurent, and nobody would even bother chastizing them because those designers are talented in their own right – they’re simply iterating. It’s human nature to look to the cultural zeitgeist for inspiration, but callout culture is par for the course in 2022. You may or may not be familiar with the Instagram account @dietprada; its entire raison d’être is to call out brands for “plagiarizing” other people’s work and ideas, it has 3.2 million followers. One might say that certain WIS comments sections serve this purpose in our world.

In any case, skeptics should remember that Girard-Perregaux Laureato made waves way back in 1971 for the GP-350 Caliber, the quartz movement that set the universal market standard for frequency, which is a pretty big feat. The GP-350 was the caliber used in the very first iteration of the Laureato, a feature that set the watch apart from the other SSIBI watches. The quartz movement also made it possible for GP to create a super slimline case. The 1975 Laureato had a very thin profile and even thinner integrated bracelet; it was the predecessor for many ultrathin quartz (and later mechanical) watches, a category I like to call “The Skinny Legends.”
Back to the new model, ref. 81010 in green, which in my mind is a serious contender in the luxury sports watch category. Even though it has a 42mm case, it sits extremely comfortably on my six-inch wrist. The shape of the lugs are super angular and they taper into the bracelet nicely, which makes the watch appear smaller than the dimensions would suggest. The H-link bracelet also tapers nicely and features a double folding clasp. The green ‘Clous de Paris’ dial certainly stands out on this model, but what appeals to me more is the contrast between the color of the dial and the black PVD-treated, baton-style hands and hour markers with thick strips of white lume. It’s reminiscent of freshly painted white lines on a grass tennis court – how British of me!

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato dial is framed with a contrasting black flange which echoes the shape of the circular disc behind the bezel; this seems to soften the harder lines of the octagonal shape. The case and bracelet, like many watches of this variety, have juxtaposing polished and satin-finished surfaces. There is a sapphire crystal caseback allowing you to admire the finishings on the in-house GP01800 movement, which is nice if you, like me, find holding your watch up to the light to admire the oscillating rotor to be a soothing activity.
The Laureato was conceived during a period of great optimism in design. It was a time for experimentation and self-expression; aesthetic trends ranged from high-tech architecture to Op-Art-inspired supergraphics. Design across clothing, homeware, and jewelry was all about soft geometric shapes and curved edges. It was bold and playful. So is this watch.

My real interest in GP started with the infamous Casquette, which was released in 1971 and then re-released earlier this year. At the time of its release, the Casquette was every bit a symbol of futurism and has since become a symbol of ’70s watch design. If there’s one thing Girard-Perregaux knows how to do, it’s shapes. And if I look closely at the most recently released series of Laureatos, the ever so slightly domed sapphire crystal makes me think of the windows in Pierre Cardin’s bubble houses. But maybe I’m just a ’70s nostalgia freak.
Put in straightforward terms, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato green is a legit steel sports watch with a surprising value proposition. While the green-dial version comes in at $14,300, which is rather spendy, it’s still considerably less money than anything comparable from the Holy Trinity. You’ll also have a much easier time getting hold of one, and you won’t be afraid to wear it while indulging in your your deepest Saturday Night Fever disco fantasy.

Hamilton Khaki Field Replica Watch

The new Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition takes a popular entry point into mechanical Swiss watchmaking and adds a few features in hopes it’ll live up to its adventurous name. Hamilton also makes a few considered tweaks to the dial and case. While these changes come at a price, the Expedition still makes a case for being your new $1,000 everyday watch.
With the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition, Hamilton takes its long-standing Khaki Field line and brings some additions and tweaks to make for a more robust field watch. The entirely brushed stainless steel case is now offered in 37mm (44mm lug-to-lug) or 41mm (48mm lug-to-lug). As the lug-to-lug measurements hint at, the oft-maligned long lugs of the Khaki Field Mechanical are gone, making for a more compact and wearable case. I have relatively small wrists (6.25mm), so I preferred the smaller size but the 41mm was still manageable.

The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is offered in four versions: a black dial on a strap or bracelet, along with white and blue dials on a strap. Compared to existing Khaki Field models, the dial is simple: just hour markers and an outer seconds track (with SuperLumiNova at the hour ticks), and two lines of text. It’s clean and easy to read, though the font feels a little squat. The SuperLumiNova in the hands is strong and serviceable; no lume on the numerals, sadly.

The most notable addition is the compass bezel. Using a compass bezel is pretty simple. If you’re in the Northern Hemisphere, point the hour hand at the sun, then rotate the “South” indication on the bezel to the point halfway between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock. That’s it, you’ve found south. Hold the watch flat and you’ll know which direction you’re moving. It’s not the most accurate thing in the world, but it’ll do; just adjust the compass bezel every few hours as the sun moves across the sky. (Technically, any watch will do the trick if you’re in a pinch, but the compass bezel helps make your orientation a bit more accurate.)The bi-directional rotating bezel is easy to grip. It has 60 clicks that give a muted sound when turned. If my life goes according to plan, I can’t imagine I’ll ever truly use or need a compass bezel. I might’ve preferred a simple polished bezel instead, but the bezel does illustrate a certain commitment to the whole “Expedition” theme that I respect. A polished bezel might’ve even been a better choice commercially, so respect to Hamilton for the dedication. Besides, the brushed steel of the compass bezel is relatively seamless with the case and not a design element that begs for attention. There if you want to use it, melts into the rest of the case if you don’t.

The case is fairly nondescript, with the dimensions better and more wearable than the existing Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. There’s an enlarged screw-down crown, a nice tool-watch touch. Thanks to this, the Khaki Field Expedition also has 100 meters of water resistance. The automatic H-10 caliber (an ETA movement) is visible through a sapphire caseback. The 37mm case is 10.45mm thick, while the 41mm is one millimeter thicker, which keeps both cases balanced. The Khaki Field Expedition is offered on a two-piece leather strap or an entirely brushed steel bracelet, both upgrades over the Khaki Field Mechanical’s equivalent offerings. The bracelet is also entirely brushed and uses pins on its removable links. For a watch like this – one that appeals to people for whom this might be their first mechanical watch – I’d love to see Hamilton use easy-to-change screws. The Khaki Field Expedition has a price of $995 on a strap or $1,045 on a bracelet. It’s a healthy premium over the Khaki Field Mechanical ($595; side note, doesn’t it feel like just yesterday these were $475?), but the screw-down crown and accompanying 100 meters of water resistance, compass bezel, and improved dimensions make a reasonable case for the price increase. While the bracelet is an upgrade over existing options in the Khaki Field lineup, this is still a strap watch to me, worn on leather, canvas, a NATO, or anything in between.

The under-$1,000 field watch category is as competitive as ever, though not all will offer some of the specs of the Khaki Field Expedition – the screw-down crown, increased water resistance, and compass bezel set it apart from much of the competition. If you want a list of field watches under a grand, here’s a list of ours to get you started. The Seiko Alpinist ($725) is the most obvious comparison, which has an internal compass bezel and 200 meters of water resistance. The Alpinist is slightly more elegant, or at least as elegant as any Seiko can be, while the Hamilton feels a touch more rugged. For the extra few hundred bucks, you don’t get any better specs, so you’d be paying for the look and feel of the Khaki Field Expedition. Either way, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition has given consumers another option, and that’s usually a good thing.

A look inside the biggest event in the world of watches

Nothing can prepare you for Watches and Wonders 2024 – nothing short of going to Watches and Wonders 2024. You’re in the “motherland” of watches, surrounded by people who are excited about watches. Being on the ground with our Hodinkee colleagues, and new friends in the watch world, keeps us inspired and excited about where things are going. high quality replica watches

Throughout the week we kept our eyes peeled for what was going on in the crowds and on the wrists around us. We saw people wearing interesting watches in interesting, often unexpected, ways. That says as much about the state of watch collecting as headlines and proper industry news. How people move and interact inside this wild and wonderful hobby is just as telling as how the brands themselves are moving – maybe even an inspiration to how they will move. high quality replica watches

And so, as is tradition at this point, we made our way around the show capturing the sights, the styles, and the scene from Watches and Wonders 2024 (and beyond). Between my photos and those from Mark Kauzlarich, we hope you can live vicariously through our favorite week of the year. high quality replica watches

Patek Philippe Standardizes Water Resistance To 30 Meters Across Its Lineup

Last week, several eagle-eyed Patek Philippe fans noticed that the Aquanaut Travel Time suddenly went from 120m of water resistance to just 30m. I noticed it as I wrote about the 5164G in my Hands-On, but initially, I assumed it was due to the model changing case material from steel to white gold. Then I realized that, no, the same model in rose gold (5164R) used to have 120m water resistance but was now also down to 30m. Looking through the catalog, the same thing has happened to the Nautilus line. From 5990 to 5811, everything had shed 90 meters of water resistance. So what happened? The answer is in a press release from Patek Philippe.
“To ensure the homogeneity and clarity of the information provided to clients, Patek Philippe has decided to introduce a new unified standard of water-resistance set at 30 meters for all watches certified as water-resistant – having been tested in air and underwater by immersion at an overpressure of 3 bars (corresponding to a depth of 30 m),” the press release says.
“This measure makes it possible to guarantee the same performance level across all the models concerned and to provide perfectly comprehensible information as to the day-to-day activities in which clients can engage while wearing their watch: washing their hands, showering, bathing, swimming, and other aquatic activities, including diving to a depth of 30m – which corresponds in large measure to actual utilization.”
While the change was meant to alleviate confusion about what you can and can’t do with your Patek Philippe , the opposite seems to have happened. That’s not surprising; questions about water resistance rarely have clear answers. Any time the topic is mentioned in a story, there’s a decent chance that the comments will erupt into arguments. We covered the topic of water resistance in a past story, but there are no real strict guidelines about what each depth rating can do. Some people would suggest that 30m means you shouldn’t even shower with the watch for fear that the increased force of water splashing at the crown would potentially surpass the rating. Others would say you shouldn’t dive in a watch with only 100m of water resistance – only 200m will do (which is demonstrably not true for recreational divers, who are commonly trained for diving to a maximum depth of 40 meters).

For Patek, this is not a complete revamp across the entire lineup that upgrades cases of their more technical watches. There’s no real engineering change, just a practical (and philosophical) one regarding how Patek pressure tests their watches. Pieces like the ref. 5178G “Cathedral Gongs” minute repeater and the Patek Philippe ref. 6300 Grandmaster Chime haven’t suddenly gone from humidity-proof to swim-ready. Those models have stayed “not water resistant.” I also wouldn’t assume that watches like the inline perpetual calendar ref. 5326P is now great for skin-diving up to 30m. Though technically, Patek has explicitly said that’s okay. But if you read between the lines, the final sentence implies they know that Patek watches aren’t the most useful for diving (the brand does not produce a dive watch), so the new ratings align with how their watches are actually used.

As someone who has long dreamt about an Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5164A, this change is certainly interesting in light of the years-long debate about water resistance in watches holistically. While my first inclination would never have been to take an Aquanaut or Nautilus diving, there was something comforting in knowing that, even if I got the watch and took it in the pool, I had 20 times more water resistance than I needed. For many people, water resistance ratings mean peace of mind. In this case, while the number is now lower, I can’t imagine how it will change the way you use your Patek around water – unless you’ve simply got to go deeper than 30m – at which point we’ll just need to convince Patek to make a dive watch.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Watch Reference 5980/60G-001

Apparently, early-aughts fashion is back. The glossy magazines, trendy blogs, and Gen Z-ers tell me so. If some of you are too young or too old to remember, lucky you. I, on the other hand, am at the perfect age to have fallen victim to velour tracksuits, flashy tops, silly accessories, and denim everything. There was one particular moment that encapsulates that kooky time in fashion — when Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake stepped out together wearing matching denim outfits; it was spectacular (if you haven’t seen the image, Google it for giggles). It immediately popped back into my head when I saw that Patek Philippe had slapped some denim-inspired straps on at least two of its new models at Watches & Wonders 2024. Patek Philippe watches are now wearing jeans?! Wow, that’s a move that doesn’t compute in my head and smells a little like a midlife crisis to me. We went hands-on with the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 watch to find out if this new wardrobe is “fetch” or fail.
It was only a few months ago that Patek Philippe discontinued all the remaining Nautilus 5980 watches (in rose gold and two-tone rose gold and steel) in its catalog, effectively dropping the entire reference. However, the brand has now revived the fan-favorite Nautilus Flyback Chronograph, this time in white gold. The wearing experience and dimensions are, of course, the same as previous versions, which is to say 40.5mm from 10 to 4 o’clock, 12.2mm thick, and 51.4mm lug-to-lug. As you can see from the photos of the Nautilus on Ed’s 6.6-inch wrist, it’s not a compact timepiece by any means; it wears like a broad but supremely comfortable sports watch. It’s wide because of the signature “ears” of the porthole-shaped case but it lies fairly flat and the chronograph pushers stay out of the way thanks to their angled placement.
This is a Patek product, so execution and quality are, as expected, excellent. Nautilus cases are known for their lovely mix of finishes; for instance, the tops of the octagonal bezel, lugs, and case ears are brushed, whereas the bezel slopes, chronograph pushers, and case-to-strap links are polished. While you can get lost in inspecting the case from all angles to spot the various finishes and beveled edges, it’s how they come together that gives the Nautilus its distinct charm.
The opaline blue-gray dial was a big color for Patek at the fair, appearing on four out of the 11 watches it released. It’s an appealing color in person, complementing the white gold case, applied baton hour markers, and rounded baton hands beautifully. The customary horizontal grooves are present, as is the mono-counter at 6 o’clock that cleverly combines concentric scales for the 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Again, if we zoom in on the details, we spot the snailing of the mono-counter, the brushing of the central chronograph hand, and the polishing of the date frame. Whether on the case, dial, or any other watch component, it’s the attention given to these seemingly small details that separate the wheat from the chaff.
Enough of the stuff I already know would be great; how about the new blue-gray calfskin strap embossed with a “denim motif?” Can the Patek Nautilus really pull off a pair of jeans? Well, as my colleague Jake Witkin put it, “It’s an absolute vibe.” I have to admit, it does look better in person than in press photos; it is also impeccably made and super-comfortable. But in terms of style, it still doesn’t do it for me. Yes, the color complements the dial flawlessly and I get that it adds a casual touch to the white-gold sports watch. However, it’s just too Canadian tuxedo for my taste, and I can imagine the look getting old quickly. Justin and Britney thought their outfits were fire at the time (as did millions around the world), but these days, evidence of that night serves as a hilarious meme.
Maybe dad jeans are cool again, especially when Patek wears them, but what about when they aren’t? What I’m getting at is that this feels too trendy and try-hard for a Patek watch, and that just doesn’t sit right with me. I didn’t like it when Omega tried this with the Railmaster, either. Then again, this watch isn’t designed for me, and I have no doubt that the jeans-clad Nautilus will have hoards of fans and will undoubtedly sell out quickly. The jeans lewk is further emphasized by the white hand-sewn stitches on the edges and the strap is fitted with a white-gold Nautilus clasp. An additional composite strap is delivered with the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G-001, also with a blue-gray fabric motif with white stitching.
The back of the watch, equipped with a sapphire crystal window, reveals the Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 flyback chronograph automatic movement that serves to power the new flyback chronograph. The 30mm movement operates at 28,800 beats per hour, supplies 45 to 55 hours of power reserve, and comprises 327 parts including the 21k gold central rotor engraved with Patek’s Calatrava cross logo and a Spiromax balance spring. As is customary, the movement includes the Patek Philippe Seal; however, it’s important to note that for 2024, the company has announced stricter criteria for its in-house seal. According to the announcement, “All watches equipped with a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar or a traditional Breguet balance spring must comply with a tight tolerance range of -1 and +2 seconds per 24 hours .” Previously, calibers with diameters of 20mm or more with a Patek Philippe Seal had to be precise within the range of -3 and +2 seconds per 24 hours.
The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in white gold is water-resistant to 30 meters. Before you react incredulously to that rating, Patek has also redefined its water-resistance criteria in 2024. The official announcement states, “To ensure the homogeneity and clarity of the information provided to clients, Patek Philippe has decided to introduce a new unified standard of water-resistance set at 30 meters for all watches certified as water-resistant — having been tested in air and underwater by immersion at an overpressure of 3 bars (corresponding to a depth of 30 m).” Essentially, any Patek Philippe watch (made from 2024 onwards) labeled as water-resistant can safely go showering, bathing, swimming, and even diving to 30 meters deep. This is an interesting move on the part of the company and I wonder if other watch brands will follow suit by announcing more straightforward water resistance standards.

JACOB & CO Astronomia Régulateur

A decade ago, Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution . The model was marked by a unique dial display with a domed sapphire crystal revealing an architectural movement with an otherworldly planetary system. Since then, the Astronomia collection has retained its roots through numerous iterations with themes including skulls, casino games, The Godfather, and many others. Now, on the 10th anniversary of this wild collection, the watchmaker’s technical prowess is on full display with an all-new caliber in the Astronomia Régulateur.

The regulator is one of the most classic complications in watchmaking, notable for its unusual, separate display of the hours, minutes, and seconds in three different locations on the dial. As the name suggests, regulators are historically known for their accuracy and were used by other watchmakers to “regulate” their work. For its latest addition to the Astronomia collection, the brand provides a revolutionized interpretation of the regulator in a way that’s distinctly Jacob & Co.
At the heart of the Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution , Jacob & Co. debuts an all-new movement: the JCAM56. This exceptional caliber spurs from the brand’s years of work in the realm of rotating, vertical, tourbillon movements. We’ve seen this work on display in the Astronomia collection with a movement built like a carousel, featuring several satellites revolving around a central axis as well as rotating on their own axis, with each arm bearing a complication. The rotation speed of that central axis was initially set at 20 minutes. Then, in 2023, Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution, whose rotation speed accelerated to just 60 seconds, setting the movement into a wild horological dance.

Now, the new caliber JCAM56 builds on the technology of the JCAM48B found in the Astronomia Revolution, offering the same impressive 60-second rotation. Here, you have three arms: one is a flying tourbillon, itself making one rotation per minute, and the other two arms are dedicated to the time display. If those time-telling dials were fixed, they would be unreadable most of the time, but the Astronomia Régulateur uses a differential system to keep those dials vertically aligned for easy reading. Beneath all this, the seconds are displayed by a long golden hand that points to a large, domed, blue, and translucent ring bearing the seconds scale.
The caliber JCAM56 is showcased in all its glory thanks to the collection’s signature case design featuring large panes of sapphire around the case band. As if this wasn’t impressive enough, the caliber JCAM56 is also the slimmest Astronomia-type movement Jacob & Co. has produced to date.