Chopard L.U.C PERPETUAL CHRONO

Chopard is a company that began as a watchmaker, became famous as a jeweler, and then, in 1996, became famous again as a watchmaker. The company was founded in 1860; the Happy Diamonds designs debuted in 1976; and in 1996, Chopard surprised fine watchmaking enthusiasts with the introduction of its first L.U.C. movement, the caliber 1.96, from a design by none other than Michel Parmigiani. Like many enthusiasts I was first introduced to L.U.C. (the initials are those of Chopard’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard) by Walt Odets’ Timezone article from 2002, which praised the movement as “perhaps the finest automatic movement being made in Switzerland today.” In the years since then the L.U.C. family of watches has gradually expanded, and the complexity of the L.U.C. offerings has increased. This year marks an important milestone for Chopard: the release of its very first, all in-house, perpetual calendar chronograph, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono, a 20-piece limited edition.
The Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono has as its base a movement that is only two years old: the Chopard L.U.C. 03.07-L, which was introduced in the spring of 2014 in Chopard’s 1963 Chronograph. This is a pretty high grade movement, as you’d expect from the L.U.C. line – a contemporary vertical clutch, column-wheel, hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, 5.62 mm x 28.8 mm, with a variable inertia balance (Chopard’s own design) with a 60-hour power reserve, running in 42 jewels, adjusted to five positions. There’s a moonphase display accurate to one day’s error every 122 years. The movement carries the Geneva Hallmark and it’s COSC certified as a chronometer, so it pretty much ticks all the enthusiast boxes.
The addition of Chopard’s perpetual calendar works (which are, as is almost always the case, cadrature, or under-the-dial-works, and therefore not visible) has changed the dimensions of the movement slightly. Perpetual calendar chronograph movement L.U.C. 03.10-L is 33 mm x 8.32 mm – for comparison, Patek Philippe’s hand-wound, non-flyback, perpetual calendar chronograph movement, CH 29-535 PS Q, is 32 mm x 7 mm with a 55-hour minimum guaranteed power reserve, as seen in the reference 5270.

The increase in movement size has meant a slight increase in the size of the Chopard Perpetual Chrono over the 1963 Chronograph – the latter clocks in at 42 mm x 11.5 mm, while the new Perpetual Chrono is 45 mm x 15.06 mm. Again, just for the sake of comparison, the Patek 5270 is 41 mm in diameter; A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual, perhaps a closer match to the Chopard Perpetual Chrono (both are large date, perpetual calendar, flyback, hand-wound chronographs), is 41 mm x 13.5 mm. What the Chopard brings to the table, in addition to what it offers technically, is a different, more extroverted design language than either Patek or Lange, and a pretty interesting price point. The Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono at launch is priced at $85,000, which is significantly less than any of its comparable competition.
Chopard caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L is, like its chrono-only predecessor, a COSC-certified chronometer (it would be interesting to see how many chronometer-certified perpetual calendar watches are in existence or have ever been made – there can’t be many). It also carries the recently updated Geneva Hallmark; the latter was formerly administered by the Geneva School of Watchmaking but since 2012, it’s been under the auspices of Timelab, and includes functional, decorative, and casing up requirements. It’s much more comprehensive with respect to the entire watch than used to be, and you can read about the new(ish) Geneva Hallmark requirements on their rather surprisingly slick website.
One other point worth mentioning: Chopard sources its gold with the help of Fairmined. A seldom-discussed elephant in the room in watches and jewelry is the enormous environmental impact, and social impact, of gold mining, and Fairmined works with its partners to ensure its gold comes from ethically responsible sources; you can read more about their work right here.

As we said at the top of the story, the launch of their very first perpetual calendar chronograph is a pretty big deal for Chopard, and we’re looking forward to seeing the watch in-the-metal next week in Basel. The perpetual calendar chronograph, especially executed in house, and with high grade finish, is not just a complication; it’s a statement of purpose and identity. Right now, just on the basis of the initial announcement this looks like potentially a very interesting alternative to some of the usual suspects in the battle for the attention of clients interested in a top-tier perpetual calendar chronograph.

The Chopard Perpetual Chrono, reference 161973-1001: Fairmined 18k white gold case, 45 mm x 15.06 mm, 30 m water resistant. Movement, hand-wound caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L, perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph, vertical clutch and column wheel controlled, variable inertia balance, COSC certified chronometer, Geneva Hallmark. High accuracy moon-phase display with one day’s deviation per 122 years. Displays: hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, moonphase, center chronograph seconds, 12 hour and 30 minute counters; day of the week and leap year as well.

Chopard L.U.C LUNAR ONE

Inspired by watchmaker and founding father Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C collection bearing his initials has been home to arguably some of Chopard’s finest contemporary work. Well, that collection just got a new flagship wth the Geneva Seal-certified Chopard L.U.C Lunar One – a dashing perpetual calendar watch with a moon phase indicator, cased in platinum. Introduced in 2005, the Lunar One gets a fresh dial design and a platinum case this year. No surprise here, but the watch looks beautiful and is yet another object of lust for all but 100 people who will get to call one of these their own.
The new dial introduces applied Roman numerals, a trio of subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the moon phase and calendar complications, along with the “big date” aperture, which carries through from earlier variants. But even in all that activity, the deep blue sunray dial is probably the best possible canvas to contrast all the polished elements and indicators delineating the information on each register. Note that the sunray texture ratdiates not from the center, but from the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One logo. The Lunar One’s alternating brushed and polished platinum case measures a very full 43mm wide, and squeezing this watch in a case any smaller would be nearly impossible. The fact that the watch is 11.47mm thick will likely keep it from appearing too big on the wrist for those who might be inclined towards a smaller case.
The subdials do appear to me to be squeezing the numerals around them. It gives me the same feeling as when I’m unfortunate enough to have the middle seat on a plane, packed between two people too wide for their own seats. The feeling of these subdials being a little “bloated” definitely makes the idea of the watch being even one millimeter narrower seem like a balloon-popping proposition.

The Calibre 96.13-L beating within is considered to be Chopard’s crown jewel, hardly a small accomplishment in a stable of pretty interesting calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. Requiring adjustment only once every 122 years (hypothetically speaking), the perpetual calendar nicely complements the moon phase indicator, but it is no typical moon phase indicator with a stationary aperture displaying the current shape of the moon. This one is an “astronomical moon phase” complication that orbits the 6:00 register in accordance with its proper phase and astronomical positioning in the nighttime sky.

From a finishing standpoint, the movement – visible through the sapphire crystal caseback – dazzles with its generous Côtes de Genève stripes, contrasting circular-grained and beveled movement bridges, and a 22-carat gold micro-rotor – something of a rarity amongst automatic perpetual calendars. The 96.13-L operates at 28,800vph and has a substantial power reserve of 65 hours.
It bears mentioning that the Chopard Lunar One is a COSC-certified chronometer – a somewhat redundant distinction, considering that this watch also bears the Geneva Seal. Also called the Hallmark of Geneva or the Poinçon de Genève, depending on the translation, this ultra-exclusive independent certification of excellence governs the hand finishing, assembly, movement casing, and adjustment of the watch, and is usually reserved for the very best of the best (learn all about the Geneva Seal in-depth here). That distinction also comes with a certain exclusivity,

Chopard L.U.C PERPETUAL TWIN

As part of what would have been Chopard’s Baselworld 2020 announcements, the brand has launched two new iterations of their L.U.C Perpetual Twin. Alongside the existing steel/silver dial version, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin can now be had in steel with a blue dial or 18k rose gold with a ruthenium grey dial. The L.U.C line represents some of Chopard’s most elaborate watchmaking, and from both a value and a finishing perspective, the COSC-certified performance of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin makes for a very appealing and modern QP offering.
I remember seeing this 43mm wide QP in person at Baselworld 2016 when it was launched. L.U.C models always stand out in my memory because they offer a very high level of finishing when compared against others at their price point and are typically a joy to photograph (especially in macro). For these new versions, the format remains very Chopard, with an almost sporty blue dial and a more classic rose gold/grey dial option. Both come on matched straps as seen in the photos and both have display casebacks offering a view of the lovely movement within.
Powered by the L.U.C 96.22-L, like the original model, these Perpetual Twins are COSC-certified and tick at 4 Hz while offering a dual aperture big date display, a full QP display, and standard time. With 65 hours of power reserve supported by two barrels, the 99.22-L has a 22-karat micro-rotor that really completes a rather lovely movement.

Pricing starts at $24,700 for the steel (in either the existing silver dial or the new blue dial). As an elegant and impactful alternative to other “entry-level” steel QPs from luxury brands – this is exceedingly relative, I am aware – like the JLC Master Ultra Thin Perpetual ($19,600) or the Glashütte Original Senator Excellent Perpetual Calendar ($22,300), the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin is worth a look (and rose gold never hurt anyone).
It’s a little harder to sell a watch (or, for that matter, luxury consumer goods in general) than it was even 12 months ago, if the figures recently released by the Swiss watch industry are to be believed, and increasingly, people who love fine watchmaking seem to be inclined to look more carefully at whether or not there’s actually something more behind what they’re buying than novelty, or a strong brand name. Depending on who you are and what you’re making, this can be a bad thing, or it can be an opportunity. For a company like Chopard, which makes some very beautiful haute horlogerie watches, but which has never quite had the recognition as a watchmaker that the Pateks, Vacherons, and APs of the world enjoy, times like these are a chance to make potential clients more aware of what they’ve got to offer. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin , in steel, therefore, is both an end in itself, and a means by which the company hopes to get out the message that there’s more out there at the high end than the usual suspects.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition

The Aston Martin Formula One team has turned it around for the 2023 season. The F1 car is operating at a consistent pace, only surpassed by current champions, Oracle Red Bull Racing. That’s also considering that one of its drivers, Lance Stroll, broke his wrists two weeks before the inaugural race, and the other driver, Fernando Alonso is now in his forties. Maintaining a fitness and focus level this far into an F1 career is a challenge, but Alonso still managed a podium position at the first race in Bahrain. This upward spike in popularity and support for the Aston Martin F1 team has undoubtedly raised the profile of its timekeeping sponsor Girard-Perregaux. To kick the season off, GP unveiled new Laureato models with a full-ceramic bracelet and case in 38mm and 42mm diameters.
This year marks Girard-Perregaux’s third consecutive season as a timekeeping sponsor for the Aston Martin Formula One team. Coincidentally, it’s also Aston Martin’s third year competing in the top echelon of motorsports. However, the team has been around since the ‘90s, initially under the Jordan Grand Prix marque. The team still bases itself trackside at Silverstone, Britain’s famous race circuit. But rebranding to Aston Martin provides a cachet to the team thanks to the prestige and heritage of Aston Martin’s road cars. With the performance gains over the winter break, Aston Martin looks particularly punchy if testing and the first race are anything to go by, so Girard-Perregaux is keen to showcase its new Laureato Green Ceramic.
This is the first time that Girard-Perregaux has used the Laureato three-hander for an Aston Martin collaboration. Previously, GP unleashed its iconic Three Bridges model, limited to 18 pieces, which was perhaps too high-end for the partnership. During its launch, I even stated, “That’s why with the announcement that Girard-Perregaux was striking a deal with Aston Martin, my mind immediately conjured the sporty Laureato.” GP soon followed the Three Bridges with two Laureato timepieces, the Chronograph and Absolute Chronograph editions. Both watches feature the Aston Martin signature cross-hatch across the dial, seen on the seat stitching of classic Aston Martin cars. The same goes for the new Laureato with an entirely ceramic green case and bracelet.
GP chose ceramic as the material is very long-lasting and scratch resistant. Ceramic is also lightweight and used in motorsports as brake discs due to the high-temperature tolerances. Despite the delicacy of machining the material, GP still applies distinct finishes, from satin brushing on the top surfaces to polishing the edges and accents. Achieving the trademark British racing green was another challenge, which GP workshopped through various metal oxides to accomplish the specific hue. The color symbolizes Britain’s racing pedigree and is part of Aston Martin’s heritage. The story of the British racing green began at the birth of motor racing. Typically, nations raced in their flag colors, but motor racing was illegal in England. The English instead went to Ireland to go racing. Once the ban was lifted, the green became a symbol of gratitude to Ireland’s emerald isle.
Another nod to Aston Martin’s branding is the subtly integrated “side-strike” on the central seconds counterbalance. This grille is a crucial detail from the DB4, DB5, and DB6 classic cars to modern-day vehicles. The Laureato is considered the hero watch of Girard-Perregaux, and forming an all-green ceramic Aston Martin edition solidifies the partnership between the icons of each industry. Whether green is your thing or not, the execution across the length of the watch showcases the dual branding most overtly thus far. While the F1 team appears prominently in the marketing thanks to its emerging performance, the watch celebrates Aston Martin, including the automotive division. It’s also great to see Girard-Perregaux satisfying all wrist sizes with a 38mm and 42mm option.
The limitation of 388 pieces for the 42mm version is slightly higher than that of 38mm model due to the more considerable popularity. But don’t sleep on the latter, which is a very wearable size and even more limited at 188 pieces. The 42mm version uses the manufacture GP01800 movement, which is visible via the sapphire case back with Aston Martin’s logo laser-etched onto the glass. The oscillating rotor provides automatic winding, with the caliber operating at 28,800vph and offering 54 hours of power reserve. The 38mm uses caliber GP03300 with a slightly lower reserve at 46 hours but the same beat frequency.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42

Breathing new life into old things is a particular talent of today’s luxury Swiss watch industry. The formula is simple. Take something from the past, adopt it for the tastes of today, and make sure when people see it they aren’t quite sure what era it was made for. Breitling’s re-launch of the Chronomat with the tube-style “Rouleaux” bracelet is very much an exercise in what today’s watch industry does best. Breitling quietly puts the previous Chronomat model to rest (it had been produced for a decade or more), and then brings back something from the Breitling world that I don’t believe retailers have seen in their shops since the 1990s.
The bad news is that terms like “Chronomat” have become a lot like “911” (in Porsche terms). They do mean a type of car/watch, but they don’t necessarily refer to any one particular item. So let’s call this watch by its slightly more precise (albeit just as vague) name, the Breitling Chronomat Bo1 42. Other parts of the team have seen this watch before me. Launched in 2020 during the pandemic, it was not possible for us to all meet with Breitling at one inclusive event. aBlogtoWatch first launched the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch here, and then a bit later our David Bredan went hands-on with the larger Breitling Chronomat Bo1 42 timepeice collection here.
The question I wanted to answer for myself with the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 was how well it stood up to the competition given what works with collectors today. With prices starting at just above $8,000, the Chronomat is not just another fun aviation-inspired tool watch, but a serious luxury item that buyers will need to pit against Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, Glashutte Original, TAG Heuer, IWC, etc…. The challenge for Breitling is to produce a product that does three things well at the same time. The first thing is that the watch needs to fit the mold of a traditional tool watch. Second is that the watch needs to be visually handsome and complementary to the style of the wearer. Third, the watch needs to come from a brand whose appeal and popularity today merit luxury positioning and buying confidence.

Many would argue that compared to a lot of other brands Breitling is more of those things than much of the competition – especially in regard to branding and luxury positioning. Currently, under the leadership of Georges Kern, Breitling was fortunate to get a leg up on other brands by having been able to release a number of new watches late 2019 and early 2020 (whereas most of the competition was waiting to release new watches that trade shows canceled by the pandemic). Breitling has also been investing a lot in marketing prior to the pandemic, and the momentum of that noise has carried on into the first half of 2020. For now, Breitling is rather hot with collectors, which means that an attractive and spirited new product collection will command even more attention and be gobbled up by consumers now versus after the market has had time to become more familiar with the product.
The core story behind the Chronomat is the type of military tie-in which is at the basis of so many great timepiece tales. In around 1984 Breitling produced a watch for a squadron of Italian airforce pilots (the Frecce Tricolori) that eventually turned into the first Chronomat models. This is when Breitling debuted both the Rouleaux bracelet and the rotating bezel with the “rider tabs” (that I called “bezel claws”). This look (especially the bezel) dominated the look of Breitling watches for nearly a decade. When Breitling started to make their own in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomat lost that bezel and bracelet – turning into something a bit more generic (albeit still very nice) and help carry Breitling through an important era. On aBlogtoWatch I reviewed the previous generation Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT here. While it features the same movement, the Breitling Chronomat Bo1 42 is a very different watch. What I find interesting is that while it is inspired by nearly all generations of Breitling Chronomat watches, it ends up being something entirely new altogether.
The case size has been something of a conversation topic. People are trying to lean toward more comfortable and easy to wear watches – which means some larger Breitling watches of old are more passe in style. The previous-gen Chronomat’s largest case size was 47mm-wide — clearly massive for many wrists. The 2020 Chronomat B01 42 is 42mm-wide and about 15mm-thick. It wears large but not too large, in my opinion. The sense of size is really a function of all the nicely polished steel and the wide lugs combined with the dramatic tapering of the Rouleaux bracelet. As always for Breitling, the steel case (two-tone or an all gold version is also available) is exceptionally well-made with excellent finishing. I have always stood by the opinion that Breitling makes some of the best cases on the market when it comes to crisp details and the quality of polishes and surface treatments.
Breitling also now has a watch that at least in appearance competes in the “steel watch with integrated bracelet market.” For me, that is the best trick that the Chronomat B01 42 plays since it isn’t traditionally thought of as a watch that fits that style — now it does. From a construction standpoint, the new bracelet is nothing like the traditional Rouleaux bracelets of a few decades ago. These new ones are built more like contemporary luxury products with parts being individually machines and polished, and generally using much more sturdy pieces of metal. Old Rouleaux bracelet would bend and stretch over time. This bracelet doesn’t appear to be prone to any of that type of wear over time. The fresh form of the bracelet is what is important. It is comfortable yes, but more important is that it sticks out and helps the experience of wearing a Chronomat B01 42 be more distinctive. This will only help increase the value of the watch for many consumers, as people don’t want generic luxury watch experiences at these price points.

The new rotating bezel design is clearly inspired by the original Chronomat watches, but they lack a lot of the funky character. Breitling did an amazing job of making them feel refined and high-end, for sure. That said, the oddity of the screwed-on “rider tabs” and the peripheral screws that jut out are gone. The bezel of the new Chronomat collection does even have those screws around the periphery, but they are effectively minimized such that you can’t really call them a key part of the piece’s personality. It isn’t that the bezel is a missed opportunity, but rather that Breitling made the specific decision it should not be a major part of the new Chronomat’s distinctive features — they left that to the bracelet.
Many brands including Breitling have delighted in updated vintage “hot dog on a stick” style hour and minute hands to make them feel a bit more modern and angular. Likewise, the new Chronomat’s hands take the shape of vintage Chronomat watches and render them for today’s tastes. The tri-compax array chronograph dials of the Chronomat watches are very refined and elegant and demonstrate a sort of simple conservatism that today’s Breitling enjoys. The dial experience works because of the familiar look and the good use of colors and materials. Breitling isn’t innovating much in this area, but I don’t think the dial will leave anyone feeling anything but, “That’s a handsome watch.”

I do like that Breitling managed to engineer out the screw-down chronograph pushers. This vestigial element was designed to offer more water and elemental resistance, but for the most part simply prevented more people from using the chronograph. The watch still manages to be water-resistant to 200 meters without the screw-down chronograph pushers — a success, in my opinion. I also like the slightly oversized look of the crown and the design of the entire crown and pusher region of the watch on the right of the case. Depending on your taste and budget, Breitling offers the Chronomat B01 42 case and bracelet in all steel, or with various degrees of gold for two-tone models. An all-gold model exists, but I do not yet believe there is a solid-gold bracelet option. Eventually, there will be, and that will make one hell of a bold statement on the wrist for those who can fork over for it.
With variety in mind, Breitling designed the Chronomat B01 42 to be available in literally dozens of versions of the years. Simply by swapping colors and materials, the chore Chronomat B01 42 case with chronograph movement can be rendered in so many interesting ways. I happen to love those dials with contrasting subdials, and for now, I happen to prefer the watch in all steel. The movement isn’t new, but Breitling’s in-house-made caliber B01 automatic chronograph is a great performer and has held up well. It still looks great in execution, and while not industry-leading in any regard, is a stable 4Hz frequency movement with about 70 hours of power reserve. You can view the movement through the sapphire crystal window on the rear of the watch.

Breitling has a new hit with the Chronomat B01 42. I think most watch lovers will enjoy it since it combines conservative masculinity with trendiness and high-quality construction. Yes, the base price is over $8,000, but these are good looking and sturdy-feeling watches that aren’t out of league at all for the price. Mr. Kern has another hit on his hands for a brand that is doing great if he can maintain the momentum. How possible that will be during pandemic times has yet to be seen, but at least for him, Breitling has a leg up on most everyone else.

Perrelet Lab Peripheral 3-Hands & Date

After the launch of the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, which marked the introduction of a new watch collection featuring a casual-chic style, Swiss brand Perrelet expands this family with a new model displaying the useful date function at 6 o’clock.

Perrelet is well-known for its different interpretations of dynamic dials which boast functional or decorative rotors on the front of the watch. And the new LAB Peripheral collection also respects this famous hallmark that identifies all of the Bienne-based company’s creations. Flagship of the “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is its innovative peripheral rotor. More discreet and sober, visible on the dial-side without compromising the vision of time, this refined version of the oscillating weight dances gracefully underneath the hour indices around the rim of its display according to the rhythm of the owner’s wrist.

The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” comes in a 42 mm x 42mm cushion-shaped case in polished/brushed stainless steel or with an eye-catching razor grey PVD coating, decorated with embossed rectangles on the case-band and water resistant to 5 ATM. Framed by a polished octagonal bezel with satin-brushed profile, its clean dial is offered in two colour variations: black and silver. Its multilayer structure adds depth to the display further enhanced by the different decorations: the vertical lines of the central disc are in relief and surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring, the luminescent indices are applied to the centre and suspended towards the minute flange, the oscillating weight is embellished with engraved oblique grooves. The end result is an elegant, harmonious and well-proportioned dial. The oscillating mass observable on the dial-side is made possible thanks to the clever in-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre P- 411, beating at 28.800 vibrations per hour and offering 42-hour of power reserve. The rotor on ball bearings, a 180° plate’s segment, is fixed to a wheel with toothing inside, which engages with a pinion on the outer rim of the movement and transmits the energy to the gear-train winding the mainspring. The case back sapphire crystal offers view of the movement’s rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing, 3N gold engravings and its balance wheel in action. The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is completed by a black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching, closed by a folding buckle customised with the brand’s logo.
Perrelet continues to perpetuate the legacy of master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet, the brand’s founder dating back to 1777 and the precursor of the self-winding movement. The Swiss manufacture is synonymous with automatic movements that it interprets in an original way, creating exclusive contemporary timepieces with a strong identity, immediately recognizable to the brand. After recently launching the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, the watch that marks the introduction of the new brand’s collection featuring a casual-chic style, Perrelet expands this family with a time-only model, enriched with the useful date function at 6 o’clock: Perrelet Lab Peripheral 3-Hands & Date.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph 42mm

For those who want a Swiss-made watch from one of the big, household name brands, some of the most compelling options within the industry can often come from the various companies that are part of Swatch Group. This is especially true for those that are positioned near the more attainable end of the price spectrum. Although Hamilton is hardly alone in this category, it frequently serves as a prime example of how you can often get a solid timepiece from a well-known and established brand for what can ultimately still be considered a relatively reasonable sum of money. The Jazzmaster is one of the cornerstone offerings in Hamilton’s modern catalog, and it’s often the go-to option for those who are looking for a classic and refined wristwatch with an inherently contemporary overall appearance. Joining the collection for 2023 is the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer lineup, which is a new family of models that adds a slightly sporty twist to the typically rather refined and elevated Jazzmaster series.
At the time of launch, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer lineup consists of a 42mm chronograph, along with time-only models in both 38mm and 34mm cases. With that in mind, each variation is offered in multiple different colorways and configurations, and while all of the models feature cases that are crafted from stainless steel, both the chronograph and 38mm time-only version are also offered with black bezels and a rose gold PVD finish. Additionally, regardless of their differences, all of the different Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer watches feature sapphire crystals above their dials, screw-down winding crowns at the 3 o’clock location, and 100 meters of water resistance.
The Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph 42mm is likely the model that will be the most interest to many collectors, and it offers what could almost be considered Daytona-adjacent vibes if it were not for the oblong shape of its pushers and its slightly more elevated approach to a traditional three-register chronograph dial. The 42mm case comes in at 15.22mm-thick with 22mm-wide lugs and the option of either a steel or black tachymeter bezel fitted to the top of the case, along with the option of either a black, blue, or white dial. Additionally, depending on the selected colorway, the lugs can either be fitted with a three-link stainless steel bracelet or a perforated leather strap that is fitted with a matching stainless steel folding clasp.
Meanwhile, the time-only Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic watches have cases that measure 11.47mm thick with 20mm lugs for the 38mm-wide model, and 11.18mm-thick with 18mm lugs for the 34mm-wide version. While the 38mm Jazzmaster Performer Automatic is available with the same dial colors as the chronograph version, the smaller 34mm model swaps out the white option for light blue and mother-of-pearl dials. Additionally, rather than having fixed tachymeter bezels like the 42mm chronograph models, all of the various time-only Jazzmaster Performer watches are fitted with bezels that feature Arabic numeral minute markers engraved upon them for an inherently sporty overall appearance.
Similar to the chronograph models, the time-only versions of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic are available with either three-link stainless steel bracelets or perforated leather straps. The 38mm version is offered with the same options as the chronograph (a bracelet or perforated leather straps in black and blue), while the 34mm model swaps out the option of a black leather strap and instead offers a beige satin strap for the mother of pearl dial model. For the most part, the color of the strap is dictated by the dial of the watch, although it is the black dial versions that typically receive the bracelet (along with the light blue 34mm model), while the white dial versions of the chronograph and 38mm time-only watch are fitted with black leather straps to match their bezels.
Powering the new Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph 42mm is the brand’s H-31 automatic movement, while both the 38mm and 34mm version of the time-only model receive the H-10. The Hamilton H-31 is essentially the brand’s upgraded version of the ETA/Valjoux 7753, while the Hamilton H-10 is the equivalent that is based on the ubiquitous ETA 2824. Both movements feature Nivachron balance springs and increased power reserves, with the Hamilton H-31 running at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours, while the Hamilton H-10 runs at 21,600vph (3 Hz) with an 80-hour power reserve. At their core, these movements are both highly familiar designs, although since Swatch Group also owns ETA, Hamilton gets to benefit from upgraded versions of these popular and proven self-winding movements.
While the new Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer series is noticeably more sporty than a lot of the other options that exist within the greater Jazzmaster lineup, it is still quite a bit more refined and elevated compared to some of the highly utilitarian designs that can be found among the brand’s field watches and pilot’s models. Additionally, since Hamilton is positioned as one of the more affordable brands among the greater Swatch Group roster

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic 38mm

Founded in 1892, Hamilton has carved a space for itself in the upper echelons of watchmaking with its unique balance of authenticity and innovation. It’s also a brand that has carved its name in American history by synchronizing the first railroads and keeping time for aviation pioneers and US soldiers. Oh, and remember Matthew McConaughey’s Interstellar watch? That was Hamilton, too.

But no brand can survive purely off of its history. Hamilton remains at the forefront of luxury watches by maintaining momentum with pieces like the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer. Actually, the Hamilton Jazzmaster collection is a central pin of the label already, but one that’s topped off by its sportier offshoot, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer.
Designed with the sophisticated individual in mind, the new Jazzmaster Performer line comes in sizes ranging from 34mm to 42mm, making it a highlight for men and women. Each of the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer 42mm’s four distinctive looks expresses dynamism and action. This goes for the 38mm’s three versions and the 34mm’s four, too. It’s these values that lie at the core of everything Hamilton does, but particularly this design.

Perhaps most striking about the modern Jazzmaster Performer is the way that it balances cutting-edge technical performance and urban charisma. Housed in a sleek stainless steel or rose gold-colored PVD case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, the Performers stand out thanks to their sporty finish.

Beyond the cutting-edge visuals, there’s a world of detail powering the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer. The 42mm Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph is powered by the H-31 automatic chronograph movement with 60 hours power reserve and a balance spring made from non-magnetic compensating alloy Nivachron. As for the 38mm and 34mm versions, an H-10 automatic movement works in tandem with a Nivachron spring so that the Jazzmaster Performer blends timekeeping precision and highly functional design.
Overall, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer is the ideal daily driver. Its wear-everywhere style is balanced by a performance-driven mindset. It’s made for anybody who favors function and style in one package. It’s resilient enough for an adventurous weekend and a sophisticated suit-and-tie occasion alike.

Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Diamond

The special edition models created by Jacob and Co. commemorate the significance of a project using high-end uniquely designed timepieces equipped with first-class movement technology. A movie series as well-known as The Godfather calls for a design that will stand out, so others around know you mean business. Jacob and Co. is proud to announce the release of its new addition to the Opera Godfather Collection. The most noticeable difference of the newly styled 49mm Opera is the diamond-set case and dial. A triple-axis tourbillon powers the watch and features a two-cylinder Swiss music box, which plays the theme song from The Godfather on demand. As if the theme song couldn’t give away the movie, a godfather figurine and logo are incorporated into the dial. A sleek black large-scale alligator leather strap makes for a comfortable wear while tying the dark design together. The Opera God Father Diamond timepiece by Jacob and Co. was styled exactly how the notorious boss of an Italian gang would want it, with tons of gold and diamonds.
The Opera Godfather Minute Repeater uses a series of artistic details and high watchmaking complications to tell the story of one of the greatest films ever made, Francis Ford Coppola’s The Godfather. It was created in a novel partnership with Paramount Pictures, the production and distribution company of the famous feature film.

Powered by its exclusive, 758-component JCFM07 movement, the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater features a bespoke two-cylinder music box that plays the first 120 notes of The Godfather theme and a minute repeater. In addition, it relies on a spectacular triple-axis gravitational tourbillon and a time display subdial to represent Jacob & Co’s cutting-edge watchmaking expertise. There has never been a watch with this combination of complications.

Artistic details include the film’s iconic logo on a black painted 18K gold plate, and a a hand-painted replica of a piano with a portrait of the Godfather himself. For the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater Diamond Barrels, the two cylinders are made of 18K rose gold and paved with 666 brilliant round diamonds.

These artistic flourishes and high watchmaking complications are combined in a well-balanced dial display that presents the epic crime story in glorious sight and sound. Like the film, the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater is a timeless work of high technical expertise and fine art. The creation of the Opera Godfather marks the first time Paramount has partnered with a watch company in this way and it was a challenge to secure the rights. Once the deal was done, however, Paramount agreed to license the music and the Godfather logo to Jacob & Co.
The tourbillon was originally invented to improve accuracy of a pocket watch by countering the effects of gravity. The Opera Godfather brings this more than 220-year-old invention to the same levels of refinement and complexity that its musical box complication and dial assembly represent.

Composed of a total of 104 components that altogether weigh just 1.15 grams, the triple-axis tourbillon of the Opera Godfather is at the forefront of modern watchmaking. With an average component weight of just 0.011 grams (0.00039 ounces), it is a spectacular constellation of barely visible parts that, when assembled and fine-tuned expertly, fulfill the primary duty of a precious timepiece: accurate timekeeping.

The triple-axis tourbillon’s delicately detailed assembly rotates on three axes simultaneously: a full rotation on the 1st axis takes 180 seconds, on the 2nd axis 48 seconds, and on the third axis 24 seconds to complete. This makes for a bold new look at how tourbillons can function, when engineered with cutting-edge, ultra-modern technologies and timeless horological heritage in mind.
Long regarded the most complicated of movements, the minute repeater was the height of luxury when it was first introduced in the 1600s, the equivalent of a church clock in a timepiece. Getting the minute repeater perfect, from precision and tonal standpoints, is a huge challenge, and that’s why only a handful of brands include minute repeaters in their collections.

The minute repeater in the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater uses two hammers to strike exposed circular gongs to sound out the hours, the quarters of hours, and the minutes. In the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater, the gongs circle above the dial, visible through the large sapphire crystal and rose gold case. This voluminous case enhances the clarity, tone, and richness of the sound of the gongs.

The minute repeater is actuated with a slide at 9 o’clock and the music is started by pressing the pusher at 8 o’clock. The watch is wound via the violin-shaped handle at 3 o’clock, and set using an 18K gold lift-out bow on the case back. The power reserve for the movement and the music box function are separate – the watch has a power reserve of 44 hours, while the music can be played three times before you must wind it again. Chiming mechanisms represent some of the most complicated and challenging haute horlogerie complications. The Opera Godfather brings the rarest type of audible complications to front: a musical box, engineered into the strict constraints of a wristwatch and designed to play the iconic theme music of The Godfather, recreated into this purely mechanical format in official partnership with Paramount Pictures.

A single press on the pusher at the 10 o’clock position of the case – crafted from 18K Rose Gold – initiates the chiming mechanism and sets more than 700 components into motion. A pair of uniquely crafted cylinders begin to rotate at a finely calculated tempo, brushing their 30 teeth against a pair of combs to evoke a total of 120 notes of the original movie theme. Unlike the other timepieces in the Opera Collection, the dial is static, the skeletonized hour and minute dial appearing to float in the center of the timepiece. Managing the power of the watch is critical, as now the timepiece adds a minute repeater, so the 758-component movement must be robust enough to power the triple-axis tourbillon, the Swiss music box, and the minute repeater, while also being precise enough to manage the timekeeping and the coordination with the chiming of the minute repeater.

The Opera Godfather Minute Repeater adds yet another Grand Complication to the Jacob & Co. collection. Combining the Swiss Music Box with a triple-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater just might be an offer you can’t refuse.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph

Maurice Lacroix has unveiled four new iterations of its popular Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph watch. Imbuing elegance to a sporty silhouette, the release comprises two new dials – black and gunmetal gray – as well as a stainless steel bracelet or classic leather strap to wear for any occasion.

For this release, the horologer has implemented subtle enhancements to its already highly-refined time-teller. Now featuring Arabic numerals as hour indices, the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph watch adds emphasis on legibility without taking away any of its sense of luxury. Elevating the dial with a touch of modernity and sophistication are its three chronograph registers, partially open-worked hour and minute hands, as well as the open caseback that reveals its ML 112 automatic movement.

Arriving in a 43mm stainless steel build, two bracelet options are offered — from a matching 3-row bracelet to a croc-grain leather strap that’s embedded with the Maison’s signature M-logo. Much like its AIKON edition, the new chronograph is equipped with the in-house Easy Strap Exchange System, which allows wearers to easily swap between the bracelets to complement different outfits and occasions.
When Maurice Lacroix is mentioned, most people think of the famous Aikon model. And for good reason: the Aikon is a surprisingly unique take on the steel sports watch buzz and delivered at a stellar price. However, the brand knows that if they only focus on one collection, Maurice Lacroix will mean nothing but the Aikon. Plus, there are also people who don’t want a trendy sports watch, but rather an everyday piece. This is where the Pontos collection comes in. It’s the middle ground between the sporty Aikon and the more elegant Eliros collection, making for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch that can easily serve as a one-piece collection.
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph watch collection consists of the regular Chronograph 43mm and the sportier Pontos S models. This time, the Chronograph 43mm collection gets a small update. It is indeed small, as we are only talking about two new dial colours, both from the darker end of the spectrum. Surprisingly, a black dial wasn’t an option up until now. Black is by far the most versatile colour of all; it has the most GADA potential. The dial is minimalist enough with not so much going on to be worn in more elegant situations, while the chronograph function adds a casual side to the piece as well. The other new dial variant is a gun-metal grey with rose-gold accents. Both the slightly skeletonized hands and the Arabic numerals are in rose gold, making the overall feel much classier. Some white markings remain on the sub-dials and in the date window above 6 o’clock. Normally I don’t like the idea of date windows on chronographs, but in this case, it looks well thought out as opposed to other watches where the date feels like an afterthought. Both dials have a sun-ray effect and snailed sub-dials. The case remains untouched compared to all other Pontos Chronograph 43mm models. At first glance, this diameter may seem too large, but with 15 millimetres of thickness, it was necessary. Otherwise, the watch would look and feel like a filet mignon on the wrist.
Classically, the chronograph pushers are on the same side as the crown and both have been given a little flair to make the watch stand out. The pushers follow the shape of the lugs, while the crown has an interesting turbine look. Brushed and polished finishes alternate. The sides of the case and the fixed bezel are polished, while the sides of the lugs are brushed. The stepped lugs are tastefully designed and feature a distinct curve. Between the lugs is either a leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet. The latter is a mainly brushed three-link number. The centre links are slightly more angular than the outer ones and have some polished details. With 100 metres of water resistance it can be easily taken for a swim with the bracelet. Responsible for the thick case is the Cal. ML112 automatic chronograph movement. It is the trusty ETA Valjoux 7750 with some minor changes. It runs on 4Hz and has a 42-hour power reserve. All can be observed through the exhibition caseback that reveals a movement decorated with Geneva stripes, circular graining, and a Maurice Lacroix-signed rotor.