The Watches Of The 2024 NBA All-Stars

The old timers may say that they don’t play defense anymore (and they may be somewhat right), but the talent level in the NBA, top to bottom, has never been higher than it is at present. And at the very top, the talent is downright ridiculous – so much so that the greatest shooter in the history of the game, Steph Curry, is coming off the bench in this year’s All-Star Game.

On top of that, the NBA watch game has arguably never been better. The overall interest in and appreciation for the timepieces we talk about every day seem to have grown amongst NBA players in the days since we sat down with the likes of J.J. Redick and Andre Iguodala. To demonstrate, we zoomed in on the wrists of 16 of this year’s All-Stars (including a very recent Talking Watches guest) to see what they’ve been wearing over the past few years.
An NBA champion, two-time NBA MVP, eight-time All-Star – and Breitling ambassador – the “Greek Freak” is one of the most unique and dominant players in the game. Here he is at All-Star Weekend 2024, sporting the SuperOcean Automatic 44. During the Dunk Contest, it was hard to miss this one as Giannis donned Shaquille O’Neal’s blazer just before Mac McClung leaped over him to take home his second straight victory.
Last year, then-teammate James Harden gifted Embiid this Rolex for winning the league’s MVP award. While we know teammate Tobias Harris is the 76ers real watch guy, an engraved Day-Date from a teammate for winning the league’s top individual award is something pretty special. We’ll be thinking about this iconic watch moment as we wish Embiid a speedy recovery. While we won’t be seeing him take the court for the All-Star game tonight we hope to be watch spotting him in the playoffs.
The four-time All-Star appears to have a growing Richard Mille collection; here he is wearing the RM 010 in titanium with an on-brand green strap. It’ll be interesting to see which model he picks up after the Celtics win the 2023-24 NBA Championship (just a bit of attempted title manifestation from Will Holloway: Resident Celtics obsessive).
No player’s star has risen more this year than Tyrese Haliburton (with apologies to New York Knick Jalen Brunson). His game is unorthodox but very, very good, just like his Cartier Crash. In fact, this Crash has a bit of a back story that played out in a Mike Nouveau TikTok. He and Four + One alum Zoë Abelson personally delivered the watch to him after a home game in Indiana earlier this season. Clearly, he’s loving his new watch.
It’s Dame Time. And these days, when eight-time NBA All-Star Damian Lillard checks the time, it’s on the just released 40mm Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Damian Lillard Special Edition. This brand new take on the PRX format features a dial texture made up of the number 0, his number, and a silhouette of Lillard in his “Dame Time” pose on the caseback. This watch collaboration from the official timekeeper of the NBA is about as fun as it gets, especially for hardcore fans of the game.
He may not be the first name that comes to mind when you think of NBA superstars, but we get the feeling that Mitchell’s time is coming. His watch game is already there – here he is spotted wearing what looks to be a Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712 at the 2023 U.S. Open in New York City. When we filmed Talking Watches with Julius Randle last year, we came away thinking that Julius is really, really into two things: basketball and watches. He bought the AP Royal Oak Music Edition to celebrate last year’s All-Star appearance. One wonders how he’ll commemorate this year’s selection. A three-time All-Star, “Ice Trae” is known for his unlimited shooting range and the depth of his interest in watches. Here he is sporting a gold Day-Date with a gold dial and what appear to be quite fitting diamond indices while arriving at a game in Toronto last year. We’ll keep our eyes peeled during his tunnel walk tonight.

Victoria Beckham Designed A Collection Of 36mm Breitling Chronomats

It’s funny to think that Victoria Beckham’s “entry” into the fashion business started with a denim line named VB Rocks in the early ’00s. The brand gained infamy by pricing its jeans at $300 a pop. Early aughts designer denim brands like Diesel and True Religion were already charging triple digits for jeans. Beckham’s price point, however, was leaps higher than the rest, leaving customers bewildered with sticker shock but also paving the way for what was to become an aggressively profitable segment of the industry. We laugh in hindsight, given the current pervasiveness and frankly exorbitant prices of today’s designer denim. This was before Balenciaga or Gucci or Bottega Veneta was making and incorporating entire lines of denim into their commercial collections. How very prophetic of Beckham.
VB has always been slightly ahead of the curve. A main staple of the cultural lexicon since the ’90s, Beckham’s career trajectory began as one-fifth of the most famous girl band to have ever existed (fight me on this, I dare you) and parlayed into her becoming the matriarch of a global Beckham dynasty. Today, Beckham is also known for being a legitimate force in the fashion industry as the founder and creative director of her eponymous fashion label. Victoria Beckham presents its ready-to-wear collections every season in Paris and retails in 230 stores in 50 countries worldwide.
Last week Beckham presented us with her latest design conquest by releasing a collection of watches in collaboration with Breitling. The Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection includes six variations and is limited to 1,500 pieces. It’s quintessential Chronomat with its vertebrae-like rouleaux bullet bracelet that makes you want to run your fingers across the polished grooves every time you come close to touching it (maybe that’s just me?), and has the traditional raised rider tabs at the 15-minute mark. The limited collection comes in two metals: stainless steel and yellow gold – a metal which was brought back from the dead for Breitling, specially for VB. Swiss watch brands, please take note!

The new dial colorways are inspired by Beckham’s own Spring/Summer 2024 palette, including peppermint, midnight blue, dove gray, and sand. The watches feature the Breitling logo on the dial and Victoria Beckham’s initials on the seconds hand. The watches are equipped with self-winding Breitling Caliber 10, which features a date window at six o’clock. The movement has approximately 42 hours of power reserve and is COSC certified.
Despite being a very modest 36mm, the Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham watch still has a lot of heft. It’s chunky in that perfectly ’90s Breitling way – a look we know Beckham aligns with when wearing her personal watches: “Typically I do like a more masculine watch,” she says, “but one that does have a sense of femininity, a sense of elegance.” I can relate to Beckham, as I too prefer a watch with more heft, but it has to be that perfect meet-in-the-middle proportion, that balance of heft and legibility but also of curvature and wearability. The contrast of wearing a larger, more “masculine” watch a little loose on your wrist could in turn make you feel more feminine. Like wearing oversized clothing to make you feel smaller: it’s the boyfriend jean effect.

The watch is by no means a total redesign – it’s a revamp of a classic. Which by the way is fine, Breitling is not looking to reinvent the brand, they’re looking to appeal to a new demographic by tweaking the existing offering. “It was just taking what Breitling does so well and putting my little spin on that,” explained Beckham, “you know, ultimately making the watches that I as a woman desire to wear.”
This partnership isn’t as unlikely as it seems. VB has been wearing watches proudly since her early days of pop stardom. What started as a stainless steel Cartier Tank Française worn in tandem with her then boyfriend David Beckham’s matching Française, developed into a yellow gold Yacht-Master (again, matching with Becks). Then came the countless diamond-set Jacob and Co. Five Time Zone, which eventually, with time, snowballed into a pretty serious watch collection.

VB has always been part of the pop-culture and watch Venn diagram. Given gen Z’s obsession with rehashing ’90s visual cultural ephemera on Instagram, her watch choices from decades past have been immortalized online. The now very famous airport paparazzi pictures of Victoria and David Beckham in 1997 wearing the aforementioned matching Cartier watches even served as inspiration for Gucci’s most recent Creative Director Sabato De Sarno debut campaign for the house late last year. This is the power of the Beckhams. In recent years we have come to know Beckham as a bonafide watch collector; she has been spotted wearing a Nautilus Ref. 7118/1300R-00 and a ref. 116505 Everose Daytona, amongst others. Now Beckham has come to create her own line of watches. Because surely making, not just wearing the product is how you wield real influence in 2024? It’s interesting to note that her new collection of watches is actually a partnership between Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham and her ready-to-wear brand, not VB the woman. Which makes total sense. It’s a way for Beckham and Breitling to cross pollinate watches and the wider world by focusing on design and not just celebrity. Victoria Beckham seems like an obvious choice, but by using her brand as the platform and eliminating herself as the focal point (note, she is not featured in the campaign), it becomes a slightly more earnest and almost more respectable way of speaking to the woman consumer. This is not a collaboration-cum-ambassadorship style gimmick but a fully fledged fashion brand collaboration with a heritage Swiss watch brand.

To be frank, Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham would need to pull a stunt like this because I personally don’t know any women purchasing Breitling watches in 2024. This is a topic brand CEO Georges Kern is very transparent about: “We are predominantly a male brand but why should we close ourselves towards 50% of the market? But we want to be the cool and relaxed alternative in this male [dominated] market and we want to have the same positioning with women’s watches… [A] relaxed alternative to the very conservative and classic Swiss watchmaking.” Beckham understands how to speak to women. Today her look is polished and pristine. Her ready-to-wear line consists of relaxed, slightly deconstructed city tailoring, perfectly cut wool coats and fluid, ankle-grazing silk dresses. It’s for grown-ups. And with a luxury fashion brand comes highly sophisticated campaign imagery – a tactic that Beckham clearly carried over to Breitling for the release of this collection. It seems she was vehemently in control as creative director too, choosing Mario Sorenti to shoot the campaign. Sorenti is a highly esteemed fashion photographer who has spent the last three decades capturing fashion campaigns (with clients including Calvin Klein, Chanel, Saint Laurent) that are forever imprinted onto our memories, by choice or not. Beckham also brought on one of her model-muses to star in the campaign and used full Victoria Beckham looks and accessories to style the shoot. Why waste a perfectly solid marketing opportunity that benefits both brands? And what’s more, why not cultivate imagery that a modern woman with spending power can identify with? I scrolled through countless pictures of VB in multiple listicles all titled something along the lines of “75 best Victoria Beckham outfits of all time.” It became clear to me that despite a few wild card choices in the ’90s (matching his and hers sarongs anybody?), her style has remained consistent since the turn of the millennium. Beckham has, for example, always understood the power of a simple Alaïa dress or the routine of sticking to the same black bug eye sunglasses. It’s her take on a uniform, and often that uniform includes a watch. All of this to say VB’s power in fashion is omnipotent. This may only be a small 1,500 piece dent for now. but let’s see if this yields as much influence as VB is truly capable of.

Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham

Music, fashion, skincare—is there anything Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham can’t do? The 49-year-old designer and business mogul has built an empire over the past 25 years with one unifying idea: if she likes it, others might, too. “Ultimately, I like to create what I desire myself,” Beckham says over Zoom. And thus far, it’s worked out swimmingly—the Brit has parlayed her posh style into a successful brand, her one-liners into covetable t-shirts, and her enviable skin into a beauty line. Now, she’s turning her attention toward Father Time. Beckham has partnered with Breitling on a limited-edition watch—with only 1,500 units available—inspired partly by the designer’s spring 2024 Victoria Beckham collection.
Watch fans will recognize the silhouette of the collaboration piece as Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham model—a sleek, androgynous style that Beckham felt fit squarely into her aesthetic. “When it comes to fashion, everything I do is originally inspired by menswear,” she says. “Then it’s about getting that perfect balance between masculinity and femininity.” Available in stainless and a yellow gold specially revived by Breitling for this collaboration, the watches have a “cool” and “effortless” feel that Beckham yearns for in her designs. “A very slight feminine touch” is in the mix via watch faces done in color—the hues were plucked from her most recent collection—like peppermint, midnight blue, dove gray, and sand.

Beckham herself is partial to the gold watch with the sand face, as the shades blend together for an almost monochromatic look (as seen on model Annemary Aderibigbe, who is featured in the Mario Sorrenti-shot campaign for the collaboration). “I’m a minimalist,” the designer says, which is also why you won’t find an excess of Beckham’s own branding on the watch, just a VB found on the second hand, and her name engraved subtly on the bracelet. “I didn’t want anything overly branded. I wanted to keep it quite simple and clean, but then add a little something for some edge. I think that comes through with the colored faces—they’re unexpected.”
When discussing the watch, it’s easy to tell Beckham has a fondness for this specific accessory—and her husband, David Beckham, is partially to thank for that. “My husband has bought me lots of watches over the years, and they all take me back to the moment when he gifted me them,” she says. Victoria still holds on to all of those gifts, and now the Breitlings will be added to her collection, not only for her future self to enjoy, but for her four children as well. Because while her clothing pieces from the ’90s may come and go out of style, watches are—for lack of a better term—timeless. She admits she donated a lot of her and David’s wardrobe to charity a few years ago, pieces she assumed were too dated to ever be worn again. “The kids are like, ‘I can’t believe dad got rid of this or that,’ but we obviously thought whatever [David] was wearing in the Nineties, he would never wear again,” she explains with a laugh. Watches, though—especially her collaboration with Breitling—will remain in her archive, because they’re classics, of course, but also for a much more sensible reason. As Beckham puts simply: “It’s always good to be on time.”
Als Breitling Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham im Jahr 2008 ihre eigene Modemarke lancierte, wurde sie von vielen nicht ganz ernst genommen. Als Girlband-Mitglied und Spielerfrau wurde Posh Spice, so ihr Spitzname bei den Spice Girls, gesehen, nicht aber als ernstzunehmende Designerin. Alle kritischen Stimmen wurden schnell eines Besseren belehrt: Die cleanen, scharf geschnittenen, aber immer femininen Entwürfe der heute 49-jährigen Britin überzeugten nicht nur Kundinnen, sondern auch Mode-Expertinnen wie die «Vogue»-Chefin Anna Wintour. Das Angebot umfasst heute neben Kleidung auch Schuhe, Taschen und Brillen.
Die Zusammenarbeit mit Breitling hat die Designerin als sehr angenehm empfunden: «Es war wundervoll, wie die Handwerkskunst und die Innovation von Breitling mit meinen Ideen zusammenfanden, um etwas so Elegantes und Frisches zu kreieren», lässt sie sich zitieren.

HAMILTON Ventura Chrono Quartz

Hamilton is the only watch brand to showcase, on the Italian version of their official website, a page specifically dedicated to “Watches and Cinema.” It proves how active is the link between the brand and the film industry; I grew up when the brand had partnered with Stanley Kubrick‘s 2001 A Space Odyssey and just described, a couple of weeks ago, how significant was the Khaki Murph in the making of Interstellar.

However, Hamilton Watch first appeared in a movie more than eighty years ago when the Hamilton Flintridge and the Hamilton Piping Rock appeared in Shanghai Express. The Ventura is the last in a row of wristwatches not to simply appear in films or tv series but play an active role instead.
The Hamilton Ventura has this year doubled its presence, as did the brand when it created a new contemporary take on the Ventura alongside the classic one. They share the same signature case design, something you hate or love, that makes this timepiece unique.
The former, technically more refined, is the Hamilton Ventura Skeleton, appeared in Iron Man and showing up later in Spiderman: Homecoming, the last chapter of the saga.
The latter is instead the Hamilton Ventura Quartz, standard equipment to agents M and H in the sequel to Men in Black, the first ironic take on the alien-invasion genre, where Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones, wearing a Blues Brothers‘ outfit like, have been replaced by two new actors, on of them being the American actress Tessa Thompson.
Let’s be frank: the Ventura is unusual. It is not the kind of watch that’s sitting on top of your list if you’re ready to buy your first one unless you specifically desire a Ventura. Tony Stark is, for example, a perfect character for the Skeleton as are fashion trendsetters, even though the Ventura has a large following already.

The first to have ever wrapped it around his wrist was Elvis Presley, who turned this odd watch into a status symbol. Kudos to Hamilton watch for often conceiving out-of-the-box products that add to core collections like the Khaki.
If we compare the Skeleton to the original version, we reckon the brand has transformed a thin and triangular-shaped edgy timepiece into a more modern, smoother, technically advanced, and avant-garde product. The skeletonized dial mimics the Spider logo visible on our hero’s suit and is black as the PVD-treated steel case. Is it just a design exercise? It is not, since it guarantees at least 80 hours of power reserve too. It is one of the best-crafted Hamilton watches I have ever seen, and one of the most comfortable I have ever worn.
When Will Smith played in the original “Men in Black” released in 1997, he was wearing a Hamilton Ventura Quartz chronograph. That film became a cult, and agent M, one of the two agents starring in Men in Black: International, played by actress Tessa Thompson, wears a Hamilton Ventura Quartz.
Compared to the Skeleton, the Hamilton Ventura Quartz is a whole different watch. Although the movie takes place in the future, Tessa wears an almost exact re-issue of the 1957 original watch.
Though Hamilton watches are dated back in 1893, the story of the Hamilton Ventura watches hit the air in the 1950s, few years before the brand had cut off its operations in America. With the help of their consultant designer, Richard Arbib, the company was able to create a revolutionary caliber. Which could run by the power of a mechanical movement, as well as an electrical battery. Following the modernization that was across diverse regions, Hamilton Ventura was forged to help instill the uniqueness of the Rock ‘n’ Roll music genre, which everyone believed had to follow a rare classic style and, very distinctive from the rest.

In 2015, while commemorating what would have been the 80th birthday of American singer Elvis Presley, the Swiss watch company brought out their new collection of the Ventura, Hamilton Ventura Elvis. A collection which has been warmly welcomed by men, following its inherent triangular-shaped design and the iconic attributes which it still holds.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII

With one of America’s biggest sporting events of the year around the corner, Breitling thought to join in on the fun. As such, the Swiss luxury watchmaker has revealed its Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII.

What makes the limited-edition timepiece extra special is it being created as a tribute to Julius “Boomer” Esiason – who is a former NFL quarterback and a longtime ambassador of Breitling. In addition to the tribute, the watch’s creation is in support of the Boomer Esiason Foundation (BEF), which supports the cystic fibrosis community.

The striking timepiece appears in a 42mm case crafted from 18-karat red gold with a dark blue dial and black subdials. What also compliments those details is a matching 18-karat red gold Rouleaux bracelet or black rubber strap. Another standout feature of the watch is the Super Bowl LVIII logo appearing on the case back alongside a “LIMITED EDITION” engraving.

In celebration of this year’s Super Bowl, the timepiece is limited to 58 units. Also, the first of the 58 watches will be sold at an exclusive BEF auction where 100% of the proceeds will benefit the Boomer Esiason Foundation. 10% of the remaining watch sales will also benefit BEF.
Among the various luxury watches that you actually see on people’s wrists here in the United States, Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII is easily one of the most frequently spotted brands. Additionally, despite being Swiss, Breitling has a long history of producing U.S. market-exclusive models and even creating timepieces that pay tribute to various aspects of American culture. Just ahead of Super Bowl LVIII, Breitling has created a limited-edition version of the Chronomat that celebrates America’s premier sporting event and the brand’s longtime partnership with former NFL quarterback Boomer Esiason. Crafted from solid 18k red gold, the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition will be produced as a limited edition of 58 examples, and proceeds from the sale of each watch will benefit the Boomer Esiason Foundation and its mission to cure cystic fibrosis.
At a quick glance, the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition could best be described as an 18k red gold version of the current-production 42mm Chronomat B01 that has a similar colorway to the 44mm limited edition from 2023 that was produced exclusively for the United States. Just like other 42mm models from the Chronomat collection, the new Super Bowl LVIII Edition measures 42mm in diameter by 15.1mm thick, with 22mm lugs and an overall lug-to-lug profile of 50.5mm. A cambered sapphire crystal protects the dial of the watch, while a unidirectional rotating timing bezel sits along its perimeter, although unlike the 44mm model from last year that was created for the U.S. market, the bezel on the new Super Bowl LVIII Edition is entirely red gold, rather than having a black ceramic insert.
Just like the rest of the current 42mm Chronomat series, the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition features a screw-down crown flanked by a set of oval-shaped pushers on the right-hand side of the case. Additionally, the double gasket system for the winding crown helps to ensure a fairly generous 200 meters of water resistance, which should be more than enough to protect against virtually all forms of moisture contact. Unlike the standard-production versions of the Chronomat B01 42, the new Super Bowl LVIII Edition features a caseback that has a red and purple Super Bowl LVIII logo printed on the underside surface of its display window, and the caseback also has each watch’s individual limited-edition number out of 58 examples engraved along its outer perimeter.
The dial of the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition is very similar to the 44mm U.S. market-exclusive model that was launched last year, and it features a dark blue sunburst surface paired with contrasting black sub-dials and a matching back chapter ring that has a tachymeter scale printed in white. The luminous baton-shaped hour markers and hands all appear in red gold to match the case, and small bright red accents are placed within the chapter ring and on the centrally-mounted chronograph seconds hand to help provided a vibrant and casual touch to what is otherwise a rather refined and elevated rendition of the brand’s multi-purpose sports chronograph.
Just like the rest of the chronograph-equipped models from the Breitling Chronomat collection, the new Super Bowl LVIII Edition is powered by the brand’s in-house Caliber B01 automatic chronograph movement, which is a COSC-certified chronometer and runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 70-hours. The Caliber B01 serves as the go-to option for the majority of Brietling’s current-production chronograph watches, although the decoration on the Cal. B01 can vary depending on the specific model. Given its solid 18k gold construction, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition receives one of the more decorated versions with Geneva stripes on its uppermost bridge and a gold-finished rotor; however, the large Super Bowl LVIII graphic printed on the display window of the caseback hides a significant portion of it from view.
The new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition is available with the option of either the collection’s signature Rouleaux bracelet in matching full 18k red gold or a black rubber strap, which features a textured design that is inspired by the shape of the links on the Chronomat’s Rouleaux bracelet. While the bracelet tapers from 22mm at the case down to 20mm at its clasp and is very much just the solid gold version of what you will find among the standard-production 42mm models, the black rubber strap is the textured style that is typically fitted to the larger 44mm Chronomat models, rather than the smooth style with a raised central section that is normally fitted to the 42mm Breitling Chronomat B01 watches.
The first of the new Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition watches will be sold exclusively through an auction organized by the Boomer Esiason Foundation, with 100% of the proceeds going directly to the foundation itself. Additionally, the NFL will host a special fundraiser via NFL Auction in February that will include another example of the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Super Bowl LVIII Edition, and the proceeds from that sale will also entirely benefit the foundation (the NFL does not profit from the sale of items via NFL Auction). As for the other watches that make up the 58 total examples (a reference to Super Bowl LVIII), 10% of the proceeds from every single sale will be donated to the Boomer Esiason Foundation and its fight against cystic fibrosis.

Nomos Has Three New Black Orion Watches

The Nomos Orion Neomatik is back in a new black, and while it’s been too long since I’ve written about the brand, I’m glad to be back. So, I’m going to let loose here and get you all the details. At first glance, it could be mistaken as just a black dial and steel case, but there’s a little more going on here.
While the Orion might seem like a simple watch with not a lot that can be done to differentiate it from model to model, Nomos Orion Neomatik has made a number of subtle updates here across the three different sizes. First, you’ll notice that the black galvanized dial is streamlined due to the lack of a sunken subsidiary seconds. Instead, the sub-seconds is flush with the rest of the dial creating a cleaner design. That cleanliness continues across the 36mm and 38.5mm (39, they call it) models with no date, powered by the DUW3001 movement with 43 hours of power reserve. On the 41mm version, you get a color-matched date with gold font.
I was recently gifted a pair of my late grandfather’s gold cufflinks. My grandma thought it would go well with the tuxedo I have (and wear maybe once a year). While I would love to wear them and remember my granddad, my first thought was: I don’t really wear gold watches, so what kind of black tie watch could I wear that would pair well with yellow-gold cufflinks? Apparently, Nomos has solved that problem here by subtly mixing and matching steel and gold.
These Nomos Orion Neomatik watches are a great fit for dressy situations because they’re relatively thin (8.4mm, 8.7mm, and 9.4mm) for automatic calibers at the price thanks to their really solid calibers (the DUW3001 and DUW6101) with Nomos’ swing system escapement. Some people might find the price a bit high, edging into Tudor territory, but I think it’s worth it for Nomos’ design, watchmaking, and nice finishing which you can see through the display caseback. And while it’s not a massive upgrade, the brand has been able to eke out an extra bit of water resistance in the case, upping it from 30m to 50m, taking it from splashproof to what I would call “splash-proof-plus.”

I’m generally a fan of sunken subdials, though I also prefer any sub-seconds over none – I’d much rather take a Lange 1815 over a Saxonia Thin from an aesthetic standpoint, for instance. But here, the flat dial works with the austere Bauhaus design of the Nomos, possibly even better than previous releases. My only criticism is that by mixing and matching the touches to each watch in gold, you potentially will find a few customers who will find their preferred combination in a different size case. What if you wanted gold hands in a 36mm case? Well, then you’re frankly stuck with having to decide between the still-solid options before you.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto

In the world of horology, few names ignite the spirit of adventure quite like Hamilton. With a storied history soaring the skies, Hamilton watches have been the quintessential co-pilot for aviators since timing the first U.S. Airmail flight in 1918. Today, Hamilton continues this proud legacy, unveiling seven new references in the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot collection that merge time-honored tradition with the thrill of exploration.
Hamilton has long been synonymous with the zenith of aviation timekeeping. The new Khaki Aviation Pilot collection pays homage to this enduring legacy, offering a line designed for modern professional pilots, aeronautics aficionados, and terrestrial adventurers alike. These timepieces are not just instruments of precision; they are emblems of a century-old trust placed in Hamilton by those who conquer the skies.
Embodying the rugged, fearless spirit of the Khaki line, each of the seven references is a tribute to the wild blue yonder. Powered by the H-10 automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve, the watches uses a NivachronTM balance spring, ensuring resistance to magnetic fields, temperature variations, and shocks — critical for any high-flying activities. The hands of each watch are coated with Grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova, offering unprecedented luminosity for clarity in the darkest conditions. This is more than just a feature; it’s a display of reliability, guiding adventurers and pilots through the uncertainties of any journey.
Today, we’ll go hands-on with models from the newest Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series. These are great-looking watches that bring a healthy dose of everyday utility along with cues from pilot’s watches. Expect great legibility and specs. Also, because this is Hamilton, all of that goodness is affordable.
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series will always have a special place in my heart. I think it was in the mid-’90s when I entered university in Pennsylvania. My parents came up from Florida in the fall, and one of the activities was to visit an outlet mall to stock up on cold-weather clothing — something I never owned back home. This was at a time when outlet malls were still novel, and during a visit to one in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, my dad happened upon a watch shop. It was there that he purchased a relatively inexpensive Hamilton Khaki with an automatic movement. I liked the watch for its no-nonsense looks and its reference to Lancaster. Fast-forward nearly 30 years later, and that experience still causes me to sit up when Hamilton releases a new model like the Khaki Aviation Pilot.
Hamilton is kicking off 2024 with what should be some highly popular models. The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series brings seven new watches to the table in two different sizes. All of the watches use automatic movements with 80-hour power reserves and are water resistant to 100 meters. Low-light visibility is a real selling point here, and the newest Super-LumiNova formulation, X1, is on board to help these pieces glow like beacons. Of course, sapphire crystals with double antireflective coating are included. Now, let’s break down the models within the two different size ranges because there are notable differences.
Perhaps it’s telling that Hamilton is coming with several great choices for its smaller Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Auto watches. If nothing else, it’s very on trend in the current “smaller is better” climate. These 36mm watches may be more petite, but they bring an eyeful of detail. Large (frankly, exaggerated), brushed nickel pilot-style hands mix with a dial that feels like a cockpit instrument. A minute track is printed on an angled rehaut and surrounds lumed indexes at the quadrants. Large numerals are in between these and are scaled every five minutes. Interestingly, the hours are printed on the innermost portion of the dial and are visible when the skeletonized tip of the hour hand is on top. All in all, with the massive hands, it took me some time to acclimate to the looks, but I’ve adjusted now. This is a clean watch and is just different enough.
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot is also available with a 42mm diameter. Here, the watches have a 51mm lug-to-lug and a 12.1mm thickness. The 20mm strap width helps keep the watches from looking too large. The primary difference in the larger models is the inclusion of a side-by-side day and date display. Like the smaller pieces, the luminous markers at the corners are inset. This creates a very clean and modern look on a classic pilot’s watch visage. Note the engraved circle that separates the hour and minute tracks. This bisects the date display perfectly, which, at the very least, shows a level of forethought. To be frank, though, the day display comes a bit too close to the center pinion for my liking. Leaving this watch with a date-only function would have been my choice.
The new Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot models should prove popular with buyers who are looking for a clean, functional watch that can handle 99% of life’s activities. I like the 36mm models due to the cleaner dials, but I am sure that many will find them too small. In the larger sizes, the olive model is hard to deny — that’s a classic Khaki color. Then again, the blue-dial option on the bracelet also looks great. It’s always nice to see Hamilton continue to evolve with more Khaki models that are recognizable yet somehow fresh. What are your thoughts on these latest pieces?

U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno

In exciting news from U-BOAT, the timelessly iconic U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno is set to be refreshed and re-released in three stunning new versions. The stylistic elements that originally cemented the Classico Chrono’s status as a symbol of timeless design elegance have been respected but in 2024 the iconic design will be presented in three dial colour variations.

Each of the three new iterations express their own distinct style and unique character without any threat to the instantly recognisable elegance of its predecessors. All three of the new designs are bound to stand out for the unique three-level design U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno have architected and their appearance in beige, green and black.
The three models (ref 9568, 9567, 9581) have a case size of 45mm crafted of 316L stainless steel with anti-reflective sapphire glass sitting atop. One of the world’s hardest metals has been utilized on the polished tungsten bezel for each of the new colourways.

The first of the three new variations is the Classico 4 Tungsteno CAS2, which has already made waves following its selection by Hollywood actor and singer, Jeremy Renner, for use in the music video for his debut single “Wait”. The watch features a beige metal dial with black SuperLumiNova used to treat the indices and numbers which creates a stunning visual contrast with the three round counters in black. This in itself is a beautiful opposition to the style choices made on the next of the three releases, the U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno CAS1. This model stands out in its own way due to the beige SuperLumiNova treating the indices and numbers which are set against a gorgeous, glossy back dial and contrasting round counters in beige.
Finally, the U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno CAS Green dazzles with an attractive green dial and matching counters of the same shade. The indices, numbers and spheres have again been treated with beige SuperLumiNova to tie the model in with the rest of the Tungesteno family.
The back of the cases in each variation has been sealed tight with exactly 7 screws which ensures the wearer is able to maintain water resistance up to 100m. The sapphire glass window on the back has been skillfully laser-cut in a U shape which offers an intriguing view of the Swiss Sellita SW500 movement and the custom rotor.

The range of new chronographs each come with a naturally aged leather strap which has been laser-engraved and comes in cognac, dark brown or black. The new range of 45mm U-BOAT Classico 45 Tungsteno models re-affirms U-BOAT’s iconic status as a main character among chronograph watches offering timeless style and elegance. All three styles are available to purchase now.

The Seiko ‘Black Series’ Grows, With New Diver And Solar Chronograph

If the photo above looks similar to you, its not déjà vu. Last year, Seiko hit us with February releases from a new “Black Series” of watches with reimaginations of the fan-favorite 1965 62MAS diver, its successor the 6105-8000, and the Alpinist field watch, all in black with textured dials and turquoise LumiBrite. Those were “limited editions” (with a very large run of some of them), and I thought that would be the end of the series. But now Seiko has brought out two more watches, a “King Turtle” diver and Solar Chronograph, in a similar color combo.
Both watches feature a stainless steel case with hard coating and a ceramic bezel which, at $725 for the diver and $700 for the Seiko Solar Chronograph, gives a good starting point point for the specs. The SRPK43 diver measures a big 45mm by 13.2mm thick with 22mm lug width and 45mm lug-t0-lug and should wear sizeable on a similar blacked-out stainless steel hard coated bracelet. The chronograph is more reasonable at 41.4mm by 13mm with an unfortunate 21mm lug width, and 45.9mm lug-to-lug.
Inside the King Turtle diver is the Seiko 4R36, a workhorse movement but a bit cheaper than the 6R35, so you lose a little bit of power reserve (41 hours here), but you also lose around $225 on the price tag. Otherwise, the diver has a uni-directional bezel, screw-down crown, screw-in caseback, and 200m of water resistance plus day and date. The Solar Chronograph gets six months of power on a full charge and has a running-second display, date at 4:30, 24-hour subdial, and a 1/5-second chronograph with a 60-minute counter and has 100m of water resistance.
The brand Seiko Solar Chronographs has made another tweak in the lineup by removing the textured dial that the three previous releases had. Now they both are a more matte grey/black (though its hard to tell which way they lean more without seeing them in person). The watches look like they’ll be available starting February, though when I’m not quite sure. We’ll update the story if more info becomes available.
Phew, okay. Now that we’ve got that out of the way, we can get on to something that hasn’t been said a thousand times before. I like these releases on paper, but being that Seiko already released three watches that I frankly think are a bit stronger, this feels a bit like checking a box and not adding much new to the Seiko lineup. I’ve never actually spent any time with the Seiko Solar Chronographs, so pipe up in the comments if I’m missing anything, but the SSC923 seems like a fine release. That’s it. By getting rid of the great texture on the dial that the original Black Series had, it just feels a little flat. More than anything, it seems like a watch for someone who is just browsing the catalog looking for a black Solar Chronograph.
The new black “King Turtle” diver is similarly a bit flat compared to the first releases, but I like it a little more than the Solar Chronograph. I think the combination of both a bigger case and black color across the entirety of the watch gives me a bit of “AP-Offshore-End-Of-Days”-vibes. At 45mm x 13.2mm, it’s actually much bigger than the “End of Days.” Yes, it’s another blacked-out watch, but hey, at least I am consistent, and the heart wants what the heart wants. But that heart keeps wanting last year’s SPB335 a little bit more. I wonder if those are still around…

Grand Seiko Sport Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary

When the Caliber 9S debuted in 1998, it ushered in a new era of Grand Seiko mechanical watchmaking. An entirely new movement, Caliber 9S was designed from scratch to deliver the high precision and excellent durability for which Grand Seiko was already renowned. It became the platform on which all Grand Seiko mechanical watches would be built, giving rise to a full series of movements with different functions, escapements, and complications. These include the revolutionary Caliber 9SA5 with its Dual-Impulse Escapement and Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph. And, of course, there have been GMT watches in a diverse range of styles, including several timepieces with Hi-Beat movements.

To celebrate 25 years of Caliber 9S mechanical watchmaking, Grand Seiko is releasing two new GMTs in its Sport and Elegance Collections, each drawing inspiration from the skies over Mt. Iwate in Iwate Prefecture, where all Grand Seiko mechanical watches are hand-assembled by skilled craftsmen and women.
The new Sport Collection GMT watch features a dial that illustrates the sea of clouds rarely seen at daybreak, when still, humid air forms dense clouds that overlap with one another to create a beautiful tapestry. The blue color is inspired by the sky over Mt. Iwate, the peak visible from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, when it is blanketed by this sea of clouds.
The clear sapphire crystal case back, meanwhile, provides an invitation to view a titanium oscillating weight, which has been made a light shade of blue through an anodic oxidation process.* This marks the first time that a Grand Seiko mechanical watch with water resistance to 20 bar has featured an exhibition case back. A rotating bezel with sapphire crystal in blue and white elevates the design while allowing for a total of three time zones to be read at once. And of course, a tried-and-trusted 9S mechanical movement powers the new creation. In this case, it is the Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86, which provides stable accuracy thanks to its frequency of 36,000 vph, equal to ten beats per second or 5 Hz.

*Anodic oxidation treatment
A surface treatment in which metals are subjected to electrolysis so as to generate artificially an oxide film.
Titanium oxide film produces color according to the light refraction index, enabling the production of different colors by varying the thickness of the oxide film.

This anniversary limited edition of 2,000 will be available exclusively from the Grand Seiko Boutique Online starting in September 2023 before availability extends to the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners the following month.
With a sunray dial in the beautiful blue tone of the sky as seen from the peak of Mt. Iwate, the other anniversary limited edition adopts a profile from the Elegance Collection. A classic form prevails thanks to this creation’s mirror-finished bezel and case, gently curved lugs with a distortion-free mirror finish achieved through Zaratsu polishing, and a box-shaped sapphire crystal.
The timeless design features a classic profile, yet a see-through case back provides a view of the thoroughly modern 9S66 GMT movement, which has been outfitted with a titanium oscillating weight in Grand Seiko blue colored by the same anodic oxidation treatment. As with all Grand Seiko GMT watches, its ease of use is ensured through the local hour hand, which is independently adjustable so that precision is maintained even when adjusting the time according to one’s travels. And as with the Sport Collection’s limited-edition watch, the tempered blue GMT hand can be aligned to any time zone of one’s choice. The blue 24-hour scale printed on the pale blue sunray dial displays the second time zone, ensuring that subtlety and legibility distinguish this anniversary edition’s design in equal measure.