RICHARD MILLE RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Richard Mille is presenting the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Pastel Blue Quartz TPT and the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT, two new executions of its high-frequency rattrapante chronograph.
The first model comes in a case crafted of pastel blue Quartz TPT and will join the collection. The second version, issued in a limited edition of 120 pieces, features a dark yellow Quartz TPT. Measuring 44.50 x 49.94 x 16.10 mm and water resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet, their tripartite cases frame skeletonised dials that stand out for the use of vibrant colours to enhance legibility despite numerous indications. Each colour is associated with a function on the dial, thereby enhancing ease of reading. This colour code is shared with the pushers and crown.
Bezel, caseband and caseback are crafted from Quartz TPT, developed by NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology), a composite material made of multiple layers of silica fibres, saturated with resins specially developed for Richard Mille and heated to 120° at a pressure of 6 bars. The result is not only aesthetically pleasing but also remarkable for its extreme resistance. The large crown in microblasted, polished and satin-finished Grade 5 titanium is framed by the chronograph buttons, also in polished and satin-finished Grade 5 titanium. The same material and finish are used for the plate engraved with RM 65-01 on the caseband. The rapid-winding pusher at 8 o’clock stands out with its red or blue Quartz TPT button.
Pressing this pusher 125 times fully winds the barrel, ensuring a power reserve of up to 60 hours (without the chronograph running). This practical and ‘playful’ function was challenging to develop due to its high torque transfer. During the ageing tests, the function was activated thousands of times.

Equipped with a six-column wheel, the calibre RMAC4 features a high-frequency balance with variable inertia, oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour with stopwatch calculations to 1/10th of a second. The function selector on the crown enables the wearer to switch quickly from traditional
winding mode (W) to setting the semi-instantaneous date (D) or the hours and minutes (H). The RM 65-01 uses a variable geometry to optimise the rotor’s winding motion. By adjusting the 3-position weight, the rotor’s inertia can be adjusted to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or to slow it down during sporting activities. The new models add to the other RM 65-01 versions in Red Gold, Titanium, Grey Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS

Sustainability is a big trend in watchmaking today as brands jump on the bandwagon of environmentally friendly products. Some, like Chopard, ensure the sustainable source of their gold, while others look to innovative recycled materials with a lower carbon footprint. As a brand with legitimate and historical maritime ties, Ulysse Nardin’s environmental focus is the sea. One of its first watches to use recycled fishing nets was the Diver Net Concept Watch of 2020. Turning to its Diver collection again in 2024, Ulysse Nardin gives its Diver and Diver X Skeleton models a sustainable makeover with on-trend camouflage.
Used by animals to blend into the environment and survive attacks from predators, camouflage crossed over into the military to keep soldiers and their kit protected from enemy fire. A trend adopted across the board in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin kitted its Freak One in military green to great effect. Borrowing the rugged military camo uniform of the Freak, the Diver Net Ops and Diver X Skeleton Ops (ops for operations) are prepped for action above and below the waves.
The more rugged 300m water-resistant Diver Net Ops comes in a 44mm case. Using Nylo (recycled fishing nets) and Carbonium (carbon fibre used for fuselage and wings of aircraft) for the flanks and caseback combined with recycled stainless steel for the movement holder, the brand claims the watch reduces its environmental impact by 40% compared to traditional cases. To complete the materials menu, the marbled unidirectional rotating bezel is made of Carbonium and the khaki green strap is partially made from recycled fishing nets. The watch can also be ordered with a green rubber strap and a black ceramic UN element.
The khaki sandblasted dial is traversed by the signature X, picked out in green and black for the occasion. Thanks to the application of beige Super-LumiNova with a green emission, the indices and hands light up in the dark. Slightly recessed, the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock with an integrated date window with a green background is counterbalanced at noon by the power reserve indicator.
Powered by the brand’s first in-house base calibre (UN-118), this automatic movement is fitted with cutting-edge nanotechnology in the form of a DiamonSil escapement (an alliance of silicium and artificial diamond) and a silicium hairspring. The movement uses 50 jewels, runs at a rate of 28,800vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve.
A fusion of the Diver and the Skeleton, this new edition of the Diver X Skeleton goes commando and reveals its movement front and back thanks to the incorporation of UN’s skeletonised automatic movement. Still measuring 44mm but with a slightly thicker profile of 15.7mm, the 200m water-resistant case also features Carbonium details on the unidirectional rotating bezel and inside the movement on the barrel cover at noon. However, to reduce some of the weight, the case and caseback are made of black DLC titanium with sandblasted and satin finishes.
The oversized double X traversing the openworked dial neatly frames the large oscillator and silicium escapement at 6 o’clock. Black hour indices, suspended on the flange, are treated with beige Super-LumiNova to match the black hands. Matching the camo colour scheme, the khaki fabric strap is partially made from upcycled fishing nets or a green rubber strap. It is attached to the wrist with a black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle. On the reverse, other features of the UN-372 calibre are revealed. Its large X-shaped rotor has openworked areas to avoid interfering with the view of the movement. The automatic movement beats at 21,600vph and delivers a sturdy 72-hour power reserve.

BREITLING Chronomat B01

Breathing new life into old things is a particular talent of today’s luxury Swiss watch industry. The formula is simple. Take something from the past, adopt it for the tastes of today, and make sure when people see it they aren’t quite sure what era it was made for. Breitling’s re-launch of the Chronomat with the tube-style “Rouleaux” bracelet is very much an exercise in what today’s watch industry does best. Breitling quietly puts the previous Chronomat model to rest (it had been produced for a decade or more), and then brings back something from the Breitling world that I don’t believe retailers have seen in their shops since the 1990s.

The bad news is that terms like “Chronomat” have become a lot like “911” (in Porsche terms). They do mean a type of car/watch, but they don’t necessarily refer to any one particular item. So let’s call this watch by its slightly more precise (albeit just as vague) name, the Breitling Chronomat Bo1 42. Other parts of the aBlogtoWatch team have seen this watch before me. Launched in 2020 during the pandemic, it was not possible for us to all meet with Breitling at one inclusive event. aBlogtoWatch first launched the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 watch here, and then a bit later our David Bredan went hands-on with the larger Breitling Chronomat B01 42 timepeice collection here.
The question I wanted to answer for myself with the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 was how well it stood up to the competition given what works with collectors today. With prices starting at just above $8,000, the Chronomat is not just another fun aviation-inspired tool watch, but a serious luxury item that buyers will need to pit against Rolex, Omega, Blancpain, Glashutte Original, TAG Heuer, IWC, etc…. The challenge for Breitling is to produce a product that does three things well at the same time. The first thing is that the watch needs to fit the mold of a traditional tool watch. Second is that the watch needs to be visually handsome and complementary to the style of the wearer. Third, the watch needs to come from a brand whose appeal and popularity today merit luxury positioning and buying confidence.

Many would argue that compared to a lot of other brands Breitling is more of those things than much of the competition – especially in regard to branding and luxury positioning. Currently, under the leadership of Georges Kern, Breitling was fortunate to get a leg up on other brands by having been able to release a number of new watches late 2019 and early 2020 (whereas most of the competition was waiting to release new watches that trade shows canceled by the pandemic). Breitling has also been investing a lot in marketing prior to the pandemic, and the momentum of that noise has carried on into the first half of 2020. For now, Breitling is rather hot with collectors, which means that an attractive and spirited new product collection will command even more attention and be gobbled up by consumers now versus after the market has had time to become more familiar with the product.
The core story behind the Chronomat is the type of military tie-in which is at the basis of so many great timepiece tales. In around 1984 Breitling produced a watch for a squadron of Italian airforce pilots (the Frecce Tricolori) that eventually turned into the first Chronomat models. This is when Breitling debuted both the Rouleaux bracelet and the rotating bezel with the “rider tabs” (that I called “bezel claws”). This look (especially the bezel) dominated the look of Breitling watches for nearly a decade. When Breitling started to make their own in-house caliber B01 automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomat lost that bezel and bracelet – turning into something a bit more generic (albeit still very nice) and help carry Breitling through an important era. On aBlogtoWatch I reviewed the previous generation Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT here. While it features the same movement, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is a very different watch. What I find interesting is that while it is inspired by nearly all generations of Breitling Chronomat watches, it ends up being something entirely new altogether.
The case size has been something of a conversation topic. People are trying to lean toward more comfortable and easy to wear watches – which means some larger Breitling watches of old are more passe in style. The previous-gen Chronomat’s largest case size was 47mm-wide — clearly massive for many wrists. The 2024 Breitling Chronomat B01 42 is 42mm-wide and about 15mm-thick. It wears large but not too large, in my opinion. The sense of size is really a function of all the nicely polished steel and the wide lugs combined with the dramatic tapering of the Rouleaux bracelet. As always for Breitling, the steel case (two-tone or an all gold version is also available) is exceptionally well-made with excellent finishing. I have always stood by the opinion that Breitling makes some of the best cases on the market when it comes to crisp details and the quality of polishes and surface treatments.
Breitling also now has a watch that at least in appearance competes in the “steel watch with integrated bracelet market.” For me, that is the best trick that the Chronomat B01 42 plays since it isn’t traditionally thought of as a watch that fits that style — now it does. From a construction standpoint, the new bracelet is nothing like the traditional Rouleaux bracelets of a few decades ago. These new ones are built more like contemporary luxury products with parts being individually machines and polished, and generally using much more sturdy pieces of metal. Old Rouleaux bracelet would bend and stretch over time. This bracelet doesn’t appear to be prone to any of that type of wear over time. The fresh form of the bracelet is what is important. It is comfortable yes, but more important is that it sticks out and helps the experience of wearing a Breitling Chronomat B01 42 be more distinctive. This will only help increase the value of the watch for many consumers, as people don’t want generic luxury watch experiences at these price points.

The new rotating bezel design is clearly inspired by the original Chronomat watches, but they lack a lot of the funky character. Breitling did an amazing job of making them feel refined and high-end, for sure. That said, the oddity of the screwed-on “rider tabs” and the peripheral screws that jut out are gone. The bezel of the new Chronomat collection does even have those screws around the periphery, but they are effectively minimized such that you can’t really call them a key part of the piece’s personality. It isn’t that the bezel is a missed opportunity, but rather that Breitling made the specific decision it should not be a major part of the new Chronomat’s distinctive features — they left that to the bracelet.
Many brands including Breitling have delighted in updated vintage “hot dog on a stick” style hour and minute hands to make them feel a bit more modern and angular. Likewise, the new Chronomat’s hands take the shape of vintage Chronomat watches and render them for today’s tastes. The tri-compax array chronograph dials of the Chronomat watches are very refined and elegant and demonstrate a sort of simple conservatism that today’s Breitling enjoys. The dial experience works because of the familiar look and the good use of colors and materials. Breitling isn’t innovating much in this area, but I don’t think the dial will leave anyone feeling anything but, “That’s a handsome watch.”

I do like that Breitling managed to engineer out the screw-down chronograph pushers. This vestigial element was designed to offer more water and elemental resistance, but for the most part simply prevented more people from using the chronograph. The watch still manages to be water-resistant to 200 meters without the screw-down chronograph pushers — a success, in my opinion. I also like the slightly oversized look of the crown and the design of the entire crown and pusher region of the watch on the right of the case. Depending on your taste and budget, Breitling offers the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 case and bracelet in all steel, or with various degrees of gold for two-tone models. An all-gold model exists, but I do not yet believe there is a solid-gold bracelet option. Eventually, there will be, and that will make one hell of a bold statement on the wrist for those who can fork over for it.
With variety in mind, Breitling designed the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 to be available in literally dozens of versions of the years. Simply by swapping colors and materials, the chore Breitling Chronomat B01 42 case with chronograph movement can be rendered in so many interesting ways. I happen to love those dials with contrasting subdials, and for now, I happen to prefer the watch in all steel. The movement isn’t new, but Breitling’s in-house-made caliber B01 automatic chronograph is a great performer and has held up well. It still looks great in execution, and while not industry-leading in any regard, is a stable 4Hz frequency movement with about 70 hours of power reserve. You can view the movement through the sapphire crystal window on the rear of the watch.

BREITLING Superocean Automatic

Sure, Breitling might be most recognized – and rightly so – for its pilot’s and aviation-inspired watches. But it didn’t just leave exploring the depths of the oceans to its competitors. No, in 1957, Breitling introduced the SuperOcean, both as a time-only diver and (true to form) as a chronograph. Soon, it’d release other vintage models like the SuperOcean “Slow Motion” and the Chrono-Matic, now favorites of modern enthusiasts.
What we have here is the Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 A17366, a dive watch from 2019 measuring 42mm in diameter and 13.5mm in thickness. This modern Breitling SuperOcean Automatic is an impressive dive watch with 500 meters of water resistance, more than you’ll find on many of its competitors. It’s defined by a number of bold design choices. It starts with the thick and deeply-toothed, unidirectional bezel that features raised indices as a luxurious touch. The dial is a similar matte black, with large raised Arabic numerals and indices, giving off the impression that modern diving functionality was actually considered in the design of this dive watch. At 42mm in diameter and about 50.5mm lug-to-lug, the stainless steel case is large, but not unmanageable for many wrist sizes.

This Breitling SuperOcean Automatic is powered by the Breitling caliber 17, an automatic movement based on the ETA 2824-2 – a no-nonsense movement that means the SuperOcean continues to be a reliable, (relatively) affordable option for those looking for a no-fuss modern diver.

Chopard Mille Miglia Ref. 8915 BRG Watch

Making a watch truly feel authentic to a particular pastime, subculture, or market segment is an incredibly long, laborious process. Ideally, the watch in question should be associated with the desired location for decades or more, with untold thousands of hours and millions of dollars in marketing efforts to reinforce the message — take, for example, the more than half-century Omega has taken to relentlessly push the Speedmaster as the first watch worn on the moon to make it the de facto choice for space-minded watch enthusiasts. In short, authenticity is a slow and expensive game in the watch industry, which makes the Chopard Mille Miglia series all the more interesting. Outside of TAG Heuer, it’s difficult to find a watch with more automotive and motorsports street cred than the Mille Miglia, and TAG Heuer has been plastered across the world’s most prominent race tracks and showcased on racer’s wrists since at least the 1960s. By contrast, the Mille Miglia is a relative newcomer, without the same marketing juggernaut to support it, and its motoring credentials are centered around a single vintage road race in central Italy. Among the real automotive cognoscenti, though, the Mille Miglia line has built a sterling reputation since its launch in 1988. This circa 2008 Chopard Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG is an ideal example of the genuine passion, fanatical attention to detail, and superb build quality that has earned the series an authentic motoring feel other automotive-inspired timepieces struggle to match.
The first ingredient in the Chopard Mille Miglia’s recipe for automotive authenticity is sincerity. Rather than being driven by dispassionate market research or a desire to advertise to a certain clientele, the Mille Miglia was born from Chopard head Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s own personal participation in the Italian Mille Miglia classic car rally since the late ‘80s. As a result, the watch line more or less began as a passion project for Scheufele, a way to patronize the event he loved and create a more meaningful souvenir for those competing in the race. This honest, unabashedly passionate approach to the classic racing theme shines through in both the product line and the company’s continued support of the rally each year.
This genuine love for classic cars, as well as the look and feel of vintage motorsports, also allows the Chopard Mille Miglia to pick up on fine visual nuances and stylistic cues that an automotive outsider would easily miss. The Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG showcases this well, in a way that few of its stablemates attempt to replicate. Take the dial, for example. This is arguably as contemporary and sporty as Chopard would ever make the mainline Mille Miglia chronograph (not counting the beefy, aggressive Mille Miglia GTS sub-line), but even here, the modern cues are softened with a midcentury Italian flair. The wide, angular cutoff Arabic hours numerals of the main dial are pure late-2000s sporting style, with a form near identical to the typeface used for the contemporary Ferrari F430 Scuderia’s tachometer. Likewise, the polished straight sword handset and stark white lume give this design a firmly modern bent. However, elements like the gauge-like silver-white outer seconds scale, silver azurage subdials, and squarish, vintage instrument-style subdial numerals temper the contemporary side of the ref. 8915 BRG’s character with a ‘50s-era warmth.
However, Chopard’s use of light and color is where this dial truly shines. A set of broad, mirror-polished subdial accent rings gives the Mille Miglia a more refined, luxurious feel than some of its more tool-oriented competitors, and the combination of cream white and vibrant red for the arrow-tipped central chronograph seconds hand reinforces the vintage sporting feel. The high-gloss main dial surface itself is a genuine conversation starter as well. In most lighting conditions, this hue reads as simple, demure black, but under the sun or in bright direct light, it reveals itself to be an extremely dark, richly saturated green. Admittedly, the ref. 8915 BRG’s namesake take on British Racing Green is far from the more verdant hues familiarly used by the likes of Lotus and Aston Martin in international motorsports, but this darker, more reserved shade takes its inspiration from an older source. Rather than the bold British Racing Green tones of the ‘50s and ‘60s, this color instead harkens back to the rakish, aristocratic “Bentley Boys” that dominated the 24 Hours of Le Mans in the 1920s and early 1930s with massive, supercharged Bentleys painted in this same near-black green. It’s not the obvious color choice that a non-automotive enthusiast would make when creating a “British racing watch,” but there’s a depth of knowledge apparent in the decision that seasoned gearheads appreciate.
The Chopard Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG’s case continues this considered mix of vintage and modern automotive inspirations. Measuring 40mm wide, it’s a fairly trend-proof compromise between sporting wrist presence and old-school compactness, with a stance that works for a variety of wrist sizes. The shape itself is classically simple, with clean vertical case sides, downturned unchamfered straight lugs, and a softly domed smooth bezel. With such a basic form, every minute visual element matters, and Chopard’s sense of refinement and extreme attention to detail pays off handsomely here. For example, the purposeful fully brushed finishing works to lightly accentuate the subtle rounding of the broader case surfaces in a way that polishing might have over-exaggerated. The brand’s choice to use titanium here rather than stainless steel is also an interesting one. Obviously, titanium wasn’t a common watchmaking material during the ‘50s heyday of the Mille Miglia race, but the darker, more lightweight feel of this material helps to prevent the ref. 8915 BRG from feeling too ornamental. The engraved tachymeter scale around the bezel is a classic vintage sports chronograph touch, however, and the squared-off vintage-style typeface ties in deftly with the chronograph subdials. Chopard tops this case with a printed sapphire display caseback, and despite the sporty pretensions, rates the watch for only 50 meters of water resistance.
Like many of its modern descendants, the Chopard Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG is powered by the dependable ETA 2894-2 automatic chronograph movement. While it may not be as exotic or as horologically exciting as an in-house powerplant, the 2894-2 is a reliable platform with excellent performance, including COSC-certified chronometer accuracy and a 42-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. As with the rest of the watch, the 2894-2’s finishing is stellar, with gold-filled engraving throughout, crisp, even perlage for the bridges, dark blued screws, and a dark-coated signed rotor topped with the brand’s familiar Côtes de Genève.
So much of the car enthusiast charm of the Chopard Mille Miglia series lies in its strap designs. For the Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG, the brand originally fitted this watch with a thick, supple big-hole-style rally strap in black leather with deep green accent stitching. To preserve the original limited-run strap, this example instead sports a modern example of the line’s signature tread-pattern rubber strap. With a texture lifted directly from a ‘50s-era Dunlop bias-ply racing tire, it’s another thoughtful, authentic motoring cue that those outside the classic car community may overlook or fail to recognize.
Creating a watch that truly fits into a certain community or subculture is a deceptively difficult undertaking. In order not to feel disingenuous or pandering, it can take an immense effort in both design and marketing, but nothing tops genuine passion and love for the subject matter when it comes to crafting authenticity. Few watches demonstrate how far this passion, attention to detail, and quality execution will take a product line as well as the Chopard Mille Miglia, and the Mille Miglia ref. 8915 BRG showcases the depth and breadth of Choard’s automotive knowledge better than most. Beyond simply being a striking piece of watchmaking, it’s a poignant reminder to brands and enthusiasts alike about the thought and labor it can take to truly speak to a subculture.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38

I’ve owned this little Hamilton watch for almost five years now, and it’s gotten as much wrist time as any other watch in my collection.
The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 is, to many, the quintessential field watch. It’s a direct reissue of the no-nonsense mil-spec design contracted by the US government throughout the Vietnam Conflict.

Unlike its predecessors however, which were cheap and disposable, the modern Khaki Field line is rugged, yet refined. The kind of watch that looks just as good in a t-shirt and jeans as it does in a smart casual outfit. If that’s the kind of thing that appeals to you, definitely check this one out.
Hamilton is a company that needs little introduction. Established in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, their watches have been seen on the wrists of prominent figures throughout history. They’ve made some notable achievements in watchmaking, including the world’s first electric battery-powered watch—and a favorite of Elvis Presley—the Ventura, and they’ve supplied the US military with timekeeping devices since World War II.

Although they ultimately came under Swiss ownership in 1979, they remain today most well known for their American military styled designs. The Khaki Field we’ll be looking at today is packed with that military heritage.
While there are a lot of things to love about this watch, it’s not perfect. Here are some things that stood out to me.

Despite being a conservative Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 , the watch wears larger on the wrist due to its long lug length. This also results in a significant gap between the springbars and the case. While this makes changing NATOs and other one-piece straps a breeze, the gap becomes apparent when worn on a two-piece strap. Due to this, I believe the watch looks best on a NATO strap. Not only does the extra layer of fabric help to visually reduce the length of the lugs, it also prevents a sharp drop-off your strap might have if the lugs end near the edges of your wrist. For those of you with smaller wrists like me, this is definitely something to consider.

The lume application isn’t the brightest, but it works fine enough to read the time in a dark room. The faux patina is a polarizing aesthetic choice among watch collectors, but here I find it tastefully done. It breaks up the black and white contrast of the dial without becoming a distraction.

The crystal lacks any kind of anti-reflective coating. While the rest of the watch is committed to being subdued and understated, the domed glass picks up all kinds of glare. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 doesn’t warp the dial, so it’s not difficult to read the time, but it can be challenging to find a viewing angle free from reflections. This is also prominent in photos.

Lastly, and this is a minor nitpick, but I would’ve liked to see a screw-down crown for added water resistance. 50m is great for most situations, but I’d personally like the foolproof reassurance that water won’t find its way into my watch, especially on one as robust as a military field watch.

Breitling Avenger Automatic 42 Red Arrows

Introducing a remarkable timepiece that embodies precision, resilience, and a rich heritage of aviation excellence – the Breitling Avenger Auto 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition.

Available with a sleek stainless-steel bracelet, this limited-edition watch is set to captivate Breitling enthusiasts and aviation aficionados alike.
In commemoration of the Red Arrows’ 60th anniversary display season, Breitling has crafted a watch that not only honours the esteemed aerobatic team but also supports the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund. Limited to just 360 pieces (275 bracelets / 85 straps) worldwide, the Avenger Auto 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition is more than a timepiece; it’s a tribute to the inspiring service of the British armed forces.
The Avenger Auto 42 features a meticulously balanced design, enriched with striking details that highlight its prestigious partnership. The blue-and-black dial, adorned with red accents including the tip of the seconds hand, pays homage to the Red Arrows insignia. At 9 o’clock, the team’s iconic crest, emblazoned with “éclat” (meaning “brilliance”), stands out, symbolising their legacy.

The robust 42mm stainless steel case is built to withstand the toughest conditions, offering water resistance up to 300 metres. Whether you’re soaring through the skies or navigating the depths of the sea, the Avenger Auto 42 is engineered for reliability and performance.
At the heart of this exceptional timepiece lies the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement, renowned for its precision and dependability. With a power reserve of up to 38 hours, this movement ensures that the watch remains as reliable as the pilots it celebrates.
Even if you aren’t the world’s biggest fan of aviation, fighter jets, or even the Hollywood classic Top Gun, we all know the name Red Arrow. Flying across the world with their incredible displays of skill and precision, the Red Arrows are celebrating 60 years of aviation aerobatics. And they are doing it in luxury.

Breitling extends their Avenger line with 2 new Breitling Avenger Red Arrow Limited Edition Watches. Sporting the iconic Red Arrow Team colours and practical aviation functions, these tool watches are as sleek as they are essential.
Formed in 1964, the Red Arrows was originally known as the Royal Air Force Aerobatic Team. Showcasing the incredible skill, teamwork, and precise timekeeping needed to fly these powerful jets.
They explored Britain, taking their displays across the nation and becoming an iconic part of the British summer.

Each member of the aviation aerobatic team has previously flown with the frontline Royal Air Force squadrons. After completing their three-year tenure with the team, they will resume their duties in operations, training, staff positions, or other assignments within the Royal Air Force. I.e the Red Arrows are real soldiers showing off their skills!

2024 marked 60 years of unforgettable displays, leaving the sky painted in a mirage of colour and their crowds left feeling elated. Pilots of the Red Arrows need a timepiece that offers both accuracy and outstanding durability. The Breitling Avenger 42 Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition, a special limited release commemorating the team’s 60th display season, serves as the perfect accessory for high-flying exploits.

With 2 looks, this anniversary watch is available with a three-row stainless steel bracelet or a sleek blue military leather strap with stunning red stitching. Both models boast a large 42mm stainless steel case with the classic bezel.

In celebration of the partnership, the 60th anniversary edition showcases a bold blue and black dial, enhanced with stunning red highlights like the second hand’s tip. Additionally, the team’s iconic emblem, crafted in 1980, is prominently displayed at the 9 o’clock position.

Offering 300 metres water resistance and 30 hours power reserve from the COSC-Certified Breitling Calibre 17 automatic movement, you simply get to enjoy feeling like a military pilot.
The Breitling Avenger Red Arrow 60th Anniversary Edition was made in support of the Royal Airforce Benevolent Fun. A leading welfare charity that is crucial to those transitioning from life in the force and aids in supporting their families. Breitling is donating a percentage of the sales to this inspiring charity to aids the lives of our pilots after their service.

HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda

Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda , a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to eight pieces.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda features a 48mm diameter titanium case, is water-resistant up to 30 meters, and mirrors the shape and size of previous Conical Tourbillon models. The case is coated in white ceramic, extending to the titanium side grilles and frame. This finish continues onto the crown, which includes a black DLC titanium insert. The dial is topped by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal with AR treatment, showcasing a white agate chapter ring with three-dimensional, black-coated indices treated with Super-LumiNova, along with the HYT logo at the 6 o’clock position. The HYT’s signature retrograde hour indication is represented by black and white liquids propelled by bellows inside a borosilicate capillary tube. Minutes are indicated by a matte black pointer hand with white Super-LumiNova.
At the centre, attention is captivated by the conical tourbillon, developed for the series by master watchmaker Eric Coudray, and the “chaotic animation” featuring three 2.5mm white agate spheres and smaller counterweights, along with two white and four black spheres, each 1.5mm in diameter, within the futuristic tourbillon cage. The conical tourbillon completes a clockwise revolution every 30 seconds. The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda movement boasts various inclinations: the spring balance is inclined at 30 degrees to the horizontal, the escape wheel at 15 degrees, and the pallet at 23 degrees. Three large white agate spheres rotate at different speeds on the cage’s periphery, with the first completing four turns per minute, the second five turns per minute, and the third six turns per minute, all clockwise. This design demonstrates the stability of the conical tourbillon’s rate, creating a mesmerizing spectacle perfectly complemented by the black-and-white aesthetic.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is powered by the manually wound calibre 701-TC, which comprises 533 components, the same as in the earlier variants of the timepiece. This movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 40-hour power reserve. The exhibition caseback reveals the contemporary movement, which features black and rhodium-plated finishes and distinctive bellows.

Nomos Glashütte Zürich Weltzeit DXM

I’ve been waiting to test this watch for a while. The first time I saw the NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit, it was on the wrist of a colleague over a year ago, and I was enthralled. The second time I saw it, I was in London for Salon QP, where I subsequently filmed this video and declared it “already in the running for the best of 2011.” Then, I saw it again at Basel this year, and for the first time, the watch was “official.” Still, official doesn’t mean available, and now, after spending one week with this Glashütte-bred dual-timezone model of modernity on my wrist, I can say that it is everything I though it would be. I’m talking about a great looking watch from a real watch company with a fantastic dual-timezone complication and a level of finishing well beyond its price tag.
Who is NOMOS? It’s a brand that likes to do things their own way. They make all of their movements in-house, and yet prices range from only $1,250 to $5,880. Their designs are purely bauhaus – you either love them or you don’t – and they were the first brand to use the Glashutte seal, before their neighbors across the road. NOMOS believes in sustainability, has produced a magazine and newspaper all internally, and has amassed an impressive modern art collection. They call it like they see it and their website is one of my favorites in the industry.

They also produce beautiful watches. The Zürich Weltzeit is the most complicated piece NOMOS has released, and honestly, the first one that really caught my eye. Their more traditional models are fantastic watches, though perhaps a little staid for my tastes (and my tastes are actually really staid). But the Zürich Weltzeit is something new for NOMOS.

The watch is sized at 39.9mm and features one of my absolute favorite complications in the world of horology, a second time zone. If one looks at the watch, you’ll see a city ring with 24 city names on it. You’ll also see a funny looking German word at 3 o’clock that you may not understand. The watch, despite its minimalist design, looks fairly complicated. The thing is, it’s not.

The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. The Zürich Weltzeit Allows For The Simultaneous Viewing Of Two Unique Time Zones The word “Heimat” translates roughly to “Homeland” and it is this mini-disc at 3 o’clock that grounds the wearer in his or her home time. No matter what time zone the main dial displays, the Heimat always shows what time it is where you’ll resting your head at the end of the day, proverbially speaking. “Heimat” loosely translate to “homeland”So, you see your home time at 3 o’clock, right? So then what do the big hands show you? Well, that is your local time zone. There are 24 cities shown on this disc slightly recessed from the main dial, each representing a time zone. To change time zones, you simply press the button at 2 o’clock to adance both the city disc and the large hour hound. Again, it sounds complicated, but it’s really not. Your local time zone is displayed at 12 o’clock, your local time via the main hour hand, and your home time at 3 o’clock. Watch the video below to see how easy it is to advance time zones on this NOMOS. So, in the case of the video above, we are taking the world’s fastest flight from Brazil to Japan. In the beginning, our local time displays 10:56 (watch set to Fernando de Noronha), our home time is set to Eastern Standard Time (we’re based in NYC, after all) showing 7:56AM, and by the end of the video, we are landing in Tokyo, displaying 9:56.

Advancing the time zone is a really satisfying experience both tactically and visually. The city disc aligns to the red arrow at 12 o’clock perfectly each time, and the click of the button at 2 o’clock is very smooth. But, one important point must be made about what this watch is not.

What this watch is not is a true world-timer. A world-timer, like the impressive new one from Vacheron Constantin, shows the wearer the time of day in at least 24 different time zones simultaneously. The NOMOS only shows the time of day in two time zones simultaneously, but gives the impression of 24. This isn’t a bad thing, but most people, when looking at the Zürich Weltzeit assume it can display 24 time zones, and it simply can not. This is really a GMT watch that happens to have a 24-hour city ring. Still, it is the implementation of the city ring that gives this watch its charm. As mentioned above, all NOMOS watches feature true in-house calibers. By that, I don’t mean an ETA 2892 completely reworked in Glashutte, but rather a concretely manufacture movement that is all their own. Plates and screws are built by NOMOS at its factory. They maintain a five person team to develop movements year-round, and they believe in a level of aesthetics to their movements that is seldom seen in this price range. The brass plates are rhodium finished with diagonal Glashütte striping while other components feature circular graining. They use fire-red rubies for jewel bearings and palette stones, and bright blue steel screws that are hardened in their own kiln at 300° Celsius.

The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch) The NOMOS xi caliber is a true in-houseThe Zürich Weltzeit is built on the NOMOS ξ (Xi) caliber, the most complex the brand has built to date. The second time zone function required an addition 46 parts on top of their existing automatic movement, 23 of them were newly invented for this watch. It also required a new case the allowed for both the time zone advancement button and home time adjuster. The caliber is 5.6mm thick and has a power reserve of ~42 hours. It is adjusted to six positions and while NOMOS does not submit their movements to COSC, they would likely pass (based on the Chronoscope ticket included with our test watch)

The polished steel bezel and multi-tiered dial are very sleek on this watch. Though, with the hour markers small and sitting outside the city ring, the watch can be slightly difficult to read at a glance. You can see below that there is considerable space between the hour hand and the hour markers. I do suspect things would get easier with time as one becomes more accustomed to the configuration. Still, excellent attention has been paid to the “little” things on this such, such as the fantastic circular graining on the seconds register.
The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is not going to win you a pissing contest at the bank – I can promise you your Managing Director won’t know, or care, what it is. It’s not going to get you attention when you’re at a bar in Miami – turn to Hublot for that. It will not say “I’ve Arrived” the way so many people look for with a watch in this price range. If you’re looking for something that can do all this, buy a Rolex, a decent vintage Sub will cost you the same as this NOMOS.

All watches from NOMOS, but this one in particular, are for someone not looking for accolades, but rather subtle excellence in both form and function, and a watch that will please you and you alone each time you glance down at it. This watch is the type of watch that should be worn by a man who travels the world and thinks nothing of it; a man who is at home in Zurich, Hong Kong, Chicago, and Santiago, and knows the best places to eat in each without having to use his iPhone. It was made for the type of person who reads Monocle Magazine not to impress people on the train, but who genuinely cares about stalwarts of sustainable design in an obscure Scandinavian city. This watch is for a man who appreciates that fact that this watch features an in-house manufacture movement with hand-finishing, but doesn’t need everyone around him to know how much he paid for it. The NOMOS is a watch for a man who knew exactly who Nick Horween was before he saw that this watch came on Horween leather. The NOMOS Zürich Weltzeit is the most expensive watch the brand has made to date. In the US, it will retail for $5,880. That is is a lot of money for a NOMOS, but not a lot of money for the complication and finish. The watch, like the brand itself, is quirky and excellent. It represents true fine watchmaking at an affordable price with little sacrifice. You won’t see these watches every day, which is a great thing – they are sold in only five retailers in the United States (all listed below).

NOMOS is, in my opinion, the leader of the democratization of haute horology and one of the brands to keep an eye on over the coming years. Its Zürich Weltzeit is its magnum opus so far – despite the watch with all its German efficiencies lacking true sex appeal – if you are a fan of the watch aesthetically, you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value out there today. This is a real watch guy’s watch with a dose of international chic, and I absolutely love it.

Hamilton Adds NATO Strap Options To The Adventure-Ready Khaki Field Expedition Watch

The classic field watch may have been around for over a century, but that doesn’t mean there’s no room for improvement — and Hamilton has done just that. Hamilton has been the first name in field watches since the inception of the genre, and with the Khaki Field Expedition, it’s clear just how far the humble field watch has come. With a compass bezel and five new looks, including a NATO textile strap, the Khaki Field Expedition is ready for adventure.
If you’re in the market for a field watch, there’s a good chance Hamilton’s Khaki line will be your first port of call. With over 60 models, from divers to chronographs, the core of the Khaki line is the classic field watch. Characterized by large Arabic markers and an emphasis on reliability and legibility, Hamilton’s Khaki field watches retain the vintage military design cues of its forebears and are built for a life in the outdoors.
The Khaki Field Expedition can trace its lineage to watches like Hamilton’s Officer’s Trench Watch worn by soldiers during WWI. Large numerals, simplicity of design, and, above all, reliability, were key to timing operations in the field. In the ensuing decades, Hamilton would continue to produce field watches for soldiers. When soldiers returned from duty, many found that the characteristics that made these watches so reliable translated seamlessly to outdoor pursuits during peacetime. First released in 2023, the Khaki Field Expedition took Hamilton’s timeless Khaki field watch blueprint and added a compass bezel, along with oversized hands and indices, to create an all-terrain, adventure-ready version of the already robust and capable field watch.
For a watch built for outdoor adventure, the addition of a compass bezel was an inspired choice. Following the old adage, “two is one and one is none,” the compass bezel provides a backup compass on your wrist while navigating the backcountry. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, just keep the dial level and point the hour hand in the direction of the sun. Next, set the South marker to the mid-point between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker. Once set, you now have a rough estimation of direction to help you navigate — a nice failsafe in case of emergency.
Housed in either a 41mm or 37mm stainless-steel case, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is available in three distinctive dial colors: classic black, crisp white, and deep blue. Regardless of which one you choose, the hands and indices are coated with creamy tan Super-LumiNova that provides a vintage charm. Originally offered with only a choice of bracelet or leather strap, the Hamilton Khaki Field now adds a range of NATO strap options — the perfect choice for venturing into the great outdoors. The new NATO straps add plenty of versatility, whether you pair the white dial with a khaki NATO for a vintage look, the black dial with a dark gray NATO for a sleek and stealthy look, or aim for a color-matched aesthetic with navy on navy.
A field watch has always been a rugged and versatile option for venturing into the outdoors, but the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition takes this classic design to a new level with the integration of a compass bezel and the new option of custom NATO straps for added comfort and security in the field.