Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon

The way our eyes make sense of the world can sometimes throw us off. In fact, wasn’t it Aristotle who said that “our senses can be trusted, but they can easily be fooled”? When we look at a large object, particularly one that is powerful and sporty like the Graham Chronofighter, our minds subconsciously predict that it will feel substantial on the wrist – all that heft must be made of something, right? In most cases, we wouldn’t be wrong, unless we’re looking at the Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton.

Its colossal frame measures a whopping 47mm across, and that does not include the added measurements brought on by the Graham signature fast-action start-stop trigger and reset pusher, which is unique to the Chronofighter collection. Taken altogether, it would dwarf a good majority of today’s sports watches, but aficionados need not feel parried by its menacing presence, because the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton is oversized, not overweight.

Made of superlight black carbon composite, the watch only looks big; it actually weighs less than 100g all in. The trigger had been fashioned out of 3K carbon, as was the bezel, but also crucial in keeping this timepiece within the featherweight class is the black skeletonised dial, which trims the nett weight down even further. Exposing the chronograph gear wheels and part of the going train, including the balance, this openworked construct melds perfectly with the technical appeal of the watch, and continues on the back where a smoked sapphire crystal exposes the movement completely.

Predominantly black, this timepiece, however, isn’t one to blend into the shadows. The trigger and bezel interact with light to showcase the textured nuances of 3K carbon while the reset pusher and strap feature a clous de Paris pattern that, while invigorating to behold, is not purely aesthetic, as it offers better traction when handling the watch. Its dial is a cornucopia of layers and apertures, wheels and hands, all combined in one smexy package.

Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton

Ihave a soft spot for watch brands that lean into doing things a bit differently, and the Graham Chronofighter is up there as a divisive design signature that has defined the brand. The chronograph trigger on the left side of the case was inspired by a countdown timer watch that Universal Geneve developed for the Italian Air Force back in the 1930s and has been a staple of the Chronofighter for about 20 years now. But does the unconventional military-inspired design translate when we’re talking about a complication like a tourbillon chronograph rather than a casual sports watch?

Limited to 100 pieces, the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton Tourbillograph is all about being big. At 47mm-wide in a very lightweight black carbon case, it’s also got one of the biggest tourbillons around that I’ve seen. Vintage military design, modern case construction, and legit horological chops all make for what is overall a pretty compelling package for an admittedly niche person — that is, if your wrist and wallet are big enough.
While the case size is 47mm-wide, that’s without the chronograph trigger. My calipers have it at 57mm-wide with the trigger, 17.5mm-thick, and with a lug-to-lug height of 55mm. What’s also big is the tourbillon, which I don’t have a precise measurement for, but the ends of the bridges are about 21mm apart. I think a more conventionally sized smaller tourbillon would look funny in a watch this big and aggressive, but Graham pulled it off.
The watch is really light, though I felt a little silly being surprised when I first picked it up considering “Superlight” is right there in the name. Still, the large case size and aggressive design don’t betray the 100g weight (which is just about what a Tudor Black Bay on strap weighs). This is, of course, due to the black carbon composite case, though the tourbillon cage itself comes in at 0.485g, which is a feather more than the 0.403g weight of Audemars Piguet’s tourbillon cage used in its current production models. Watch media can get a little overexcited in covering the newest record-breaking thinnest or lightest watches, but the reality is that while the Graham isn’t any particular record holder, it’s about as light as I could perceive a watch this size on my wrist to be.
While it’s certainly big for me, if your wrist circumference is > 8 inches, the Chronofighter Tourbillograph really is pretty practical when you consider its unobtrusive weight and 100M of water resistance. The chronograph trigger on the left side of the case is a quirky design signature, for sure, but at least it’s not going to be confused with anything else out there, which is more than I can say for a lot of watches. I’ve worn more large watches than I can count that have a traditional crown that digs into my hand. Not a problem here, as the chronograph trigger, while large and protrusive, is not felt or noticeable at all on the wrist.
The G1780 is an automatic column-wheel chronograph and tourbillon that Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton first introduced about 10 years ago when it was outfitted in a watch from the brand’s Silverstone collection. This movement was made exclusively for Graham by La Joux-Perret and, while it’s not new, it’s actually got some interesting stuff going for it. First off, it’s rare to see a tourbillon that is integrated into a column-wheel chronograph, the wheels of which you can see at work through the tourbillon cage. Operating at 28,800 vph with a 48-hour power reserve, the G1780 is hand-finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, chamfering, and polished edges. The column wheel has parts of the base cog wheel polished in order to reduce friction, as well. The tourbillon cage is comprised of 48 parts, several of which are done in 18k gold, like the upper tourbillon bridge and oscillating rotor.

Graham CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE BREXIT

We were sitting around spinning on our spinney chairs in the WristReview office the other day thinking of something to write about. Apart from one or two brands, no one has released news ahead of January’s SIHH show in Geneva, so there’s not a huge amount to discuss, so we did a bit of thinking (dangerous, I know). One of the big topics that’s on the news frequently is the topic of Great Britain leaving the European Union, a complicated and confusing process known as ‘Brexit’. You wouldn’t think that this would be the ideal inspiration for a wristwatch, but someone at Graham watches clearly has a sense of humour as that’s exactly what they’ve made, a Brexit watch.
The name Graham comes from the English clockmaker George Graham and is very historically significant regarding horology. Graham CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE BREXIT was already a practical and very well trained clockmaker by the time he met Thomas Tompion, who took a shine to him and later employed Graham. Graham would go to take the reins of Tompion’s business after his death in 1713, and he spent quite a bit of time perfecting Tompion’s cylinder escapement and the early form of deadbeat seconds Tompion was working on. Finishing other people’s projects wasn’t Graham’s only success, though, he is also well known for inventing the temperature compensating mercury pendulum, this combined with the deadbeat seconds system made Graham’s clocks some of the most accurate timepieces for more than 150 years.
Nowadays the Graham company doesn’t have all that much to do with George Graham, apart from the name and their more complex timepieces. Still, they are a cool watch and offer a unique look, and have become well known in their own right thanks to the ‘hand-grenade’ style fast action start crown system. The actual base for this UK edition is the Chronofighter Vintage watch, so it gets all the mod cons like Graham’s calibre G1747, based on an ETA movement, that runs at 4Hz for 48 hours before needing a rewind. The watch features a 30-minute chronograph operated via one pusher, as well as a day-date display. The movement also has 25 jewels, Incabloc protection and is certified Chronofiable. The case is a hefty 44mm in diameter and made of steel. Water resistance is 100m.
The dial is the unique part of the watch, instead of having a more traditional brown or blue dial, the watch has the Union Flag on it, the official flag of the United Kingdom and the most recognisable flag around. Yet, this isn’t celebrating a world-renowned rock band such as the Rolling Stones or a British innovation, it’s actually marking the event that could change everything (at least for Europeans), Brexit. To make this known, and to add a little humour, the chronograph subdial has the word ‘Brexit?’ written on it. This is not so much an indication of the company’s standing on the topic, I commend them for staying neutral, but instead, it echoes a lot of people’s worries. “Will Brexit ever happen?” is a big point of discussion, from the European side it seems like Britain wants the best without actually being in the EU, and on the British side, it’s more about why the EU appears to be unnecessarily hindering the process. It’s still a big topic, but there’s not much time left before the day finally arrives. I wonder how many Brits will be rocking this watch on the day? There’s only 100 pieces anyway, as it’s a limited edition
Hey, look at that, we managed a political article without mentioning Donald Trump once. Oops. Visit Graham Watches here.

Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Watch

There are brands out there with instantly recognizable designs. Some of these take the form of designs that are simply iconic (say, the Cartier Tank or the Rolex Submariner), and so entrenched with the brand identity that you know who it is. With others, there is a specific design DNA (past just slapping a logo onto things) that carries through each and every model. In that latter category, you have Graham. If you see a giant lever for starting the chronograph, you know who you’re dealing with. Today, we’re talking about one I spent some time with, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch.
As long as we’re talking about what ties the watches together, let’s hit on some of the specs that you likely are going to be familiar with. First up, you’ve got a 44mm steel case wrapped around the automatic G1747 movement. That movement is driving the handset which, again, looks very similar to what we’ve seen across the line. Even the dial layout will be familiar, with the running seconds showing up at the 3 o’clock position and the chronograph minutes taking up the larger sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
The dial of the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft is also where things separate this watch from its stablemates. This one really embraces the aircraft inspiration (and in a less cheesecake manner than some of the recent “Pin-up” releases). A close look at the dial reveals a rivet pattern. These are not actual rivets, of course, but it definitely calls to mind what you would see in photos of one of those shiny fighter planes of days gone by. What I found curious (once I caught it) is that the pattern is definitely not centered onto the dial at all. It’s done in a way that keeps other elements from needing to be chopped off, and in the end, I like the off-balance choice. Over the top of that sheet metal pattern, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch features a gradient dial. While there are four options, we spent time with the blue dial variant (this one seems to be pretty popular, as it took some time for the AD to shake one loose for us to spend time with). This is a particularly dark shade of blue, and I think it works quite nicely with the gradient. I know that blue is certainly the trendy color of the day, but as it’s my favorite color, I did particularly want to spend time with it. One thing they’ve done with the new Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft line is come up with textile (canvas or denim) straps that are color matched to the watch. That is where things broke down for me a little bit with the watch. I mean, yes, it’s blue, but there’s also the fact that I’m wearing a blue jean strap on a $5,450 watch. It just doesn’t fit with the rest of the watch. If they had gone with the full suede (which shows up on the tail around the buckle holes), that would be a much nicer look. Or, you know, I think the beige canvas strap (from one of the other watches) might look quite sharp here, picking up the lume color from the dial. It’s also worth noting that the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch features a buckle made of titanium. A bit odd, given that the case is made from steel, but it’s a minor detail, particularly since the buckle is out of sight most of the time. And, hey, cutting a few grams off the weight? That’s a-ok by me. Because, as you’d guess, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft is by no means a small watch. The case, for being 44mm, does wear smaller than you might otherwise expect. And when it’s only half-showing from under your cuff, that’s the impression you get. Once you can actually see the trigger assembly, though, you’re of course dealing with a bigger watch (and it’s smaller than some other Graham options, so there’s that). Or, to put it another way, the case itself is decently compact (considering it’s an automatic chronograph), but you are dealing with some visual bulk. However, if you’re all about that look, I think you’d count that in the plus category. For my time with the watch, I wore it primarily to the office, as that’s where the denim strap best lent itself. That said, I did wear it with a suit and tie (and sport coat) one day, and it worked, though it was a bit more casual than I’d prefer in that particular ensemble. One thing I have never had a problem with on a Graham watch, and do not have an issue with on the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft, is reading the time. Aside from the interplay of the colors between the hands/indices and the dial, it provides a tight contrast that makes picking things out a breeze. Additionally, even though the day/date windows seem small in comparison to the watch, they’re actually quite legible as well. In short, everything I normally look at to get out of the watch (date and time information) most frequently is all there, ready and waiting. For me, Graham is a weird proposition. I’m generally not much for chronographs, and I tend to lean towards more compact (both in terms of diameter and thickness) watches, but I still feel captivated by the images when a new release hits my inbox. At the end of the day, I am glad I got to spend some time with the watch, and found it a ready and willing companion for everyday wear (I would just recommend checking out some strap options from the brand when you’re in the store). This particular combination of a dark blue dial and beige paint is a classic combo.

graham swordfish bronze

The Graham Swordfish Bronze encapsulates several influences from the marine world. Employing bronze, an alloy widely used in the naval industry, and incorporating unusual magnified portholes which mimic the eyes of a swordfish, this chronograph provides a characterful alternative to some popular, albeit run-of-the-mill options.
The Swordfish, also known as ‘xiphias gladius’, is widely known for its flat bill. The large fish typically grows to 3 metres in length, albeit some examples are known to have grown up to 50% bigger. The largest examples of the fish have tipped the scales at 650Kg. However, despite their incredible size, they are able to scythe through water with amazing alacrity.

Graham, the Swiss watch brand based in La Chaux de Fonds, has employed the ‘Swordfish’ nomen for a range of distinctive chronographs, each endowed with prominent ‘eyes’. The brand’s choice of name seems inspired as the chronograph registers are magnified through two portholes, emulating the bulbous eyes of the eponymous fish.

However, beyond the scale of the swordfish’s eyes, they feature another unusual characteristic. A special organ, positioned near its eyes, heats the eyes and brain, improving the fish’s vision. Again, the magnified portholes seem to mimic this natural phenomenon.

While the Graham Swordfish Bronze is offered in steel, a watch I particularly liked when I reviewed it last month, the bronze case version in this review has even stronger ties to the marine world. Bronze has been widely used in the maritime industry for many years. Sextants, bells, valves, pumps and even propellors have been constructed in the copper-based alloy. This is because bronze forms a protective patina which helps prevent seawater corrosion.

The rationale for the ‘Swordfish’ soubriquet seems eminently logical.
Appraising the composition of this watch reveals some luxurious touches such as the 18-carat gold hands and indexes. This may seem at odds with the slightly informal character of the bronze case and fabric strap, but the unusual ensemble works surprisingly well. The green dial surface and matching fabric strap imbue the Graham Swordfish Bronze with a high quotient of style. The green tones appear fresh, new and unlike the tones I typically encounter in my professional role as a watch journalist.
In some cases, style comes at the expense of practicality, but no such criticisms could be directed towards this masculine timepiece. The case, crown and pushers feel robust, as if they were hewn from granite, while the dial is a paragon of lucidity. Quite simply, the wearer of this watch does not have to forgo practicality in the pursuit of style.

The Graham Swordfish Bronze does not walk along the well-trodden path of others, exploring unusual aesthetics which distinguish it as different. By adopting this approach, Graham may well have alienated some sections of the watch-buying public, however, other horophiles, myself included, will no doubt appreciate this model’s distinctive mien. Indeed, beyond its apt nomenclature, this is a watch I would dearly love to own.

Graham CHRONOFIGHTER SUPERLIGHT CARBON SKELETON

Ihave a soft spot for watch brands that lean into doing things a bit differently, and the Graham Chronofighter is up there as a divisive design signature that has defined the brand. The Graham chronograph trigger on the left side of the case was inspired by a countdown timer watch that Universal Geneve developed for the Italian Air Force back in the 1930s and has been a staple of the Chronofighter for about 20 years now. But does the unconventional military-inspired design translate when we’re talking about a complication like a tourbillon chronograph rather than a casual sports watch?

Limited to 100 pieces, the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton Tourbillograph is all about being big. At 47mm-wide in a very lightweight black carbon case, it’s also got one of the biggest tourbillons around that I’ve seen. Vintage military design, modern case construction, and legit horological chops all make for what is overall a pretty compelling package for an admittedly niche person — that is, if your wrist and wallet are big enough. While the case size is 47mm-wide, that’s without the chronograph trigger. My calipers have it at 57mm-wide with the trigger, 17.5mm-thick, and with a lug-to-lug height of 55mm. What’s also big is the tourbillon, which I don’t have a precise measurement for, but the ends of the bridges are about 21mm apart. I think a more conventionally sized smaller tourbillon would look funny in a watch this big and aggressive, but Graham pulled it off.
The watch is really light, though I felt a little silly being surprised when I first picked it up considering “Superlight” is right there in the name. Still, the large case size and aggressive design don’t betray the 100g weight (which is just about what a Tudor Black Bay on strap weighs). This is, of course, due to the black carbon composite case, though the tourbillon cage itself comes in at 0.485g, which is a feather more than the 0.403g weight of Audemars Piguet’s tourbillon cage used in its current production models. Watch media can get a little overexcited in covering the newest record-breaking thinnest or lightest watches, but the reality is that while the Graham isn’t any particular record holder, it’s about as light as I could perceive a watch this size on my wrist to be. While it’s certainly big for me, if your wrist circumference is > 8 inches, the Chronofighter Tourbillograph really is pretty practical when you consider its unobtrusive weight and 100M of water resistance. The chronograph trigger on the left side of the case is a quirky design signature, for sure, but at least it’s not going to be confused with anything else out there, which is more than I can say for a lot of watches. I’ve worn more large watches than I can count that have a traditional crown that digs into my hand. Not a problem here, as the chronograph trigger, while large and protrusive, is not felt or noticeable at all on the wrist.

The G1780 is an automatic column-wheel chronograph and tourbillon that Graham first introduced about 10 years ago when it was outfitted in a watch from the brand’s Silverstone collection. This movement was made exclusively for Graham by La Joux-Perret and, while it’s not new, it’s actually got some interesting stuff going for it. First off, it’s rare to see a tourbillon that is integrated into a column-wheel chronograph, the wheels of which you can see at work through the tourbillon cage. Operating at 28,800 vph with a 48-hour power reserve, the G1780 is hand-finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, chamfering, and polished edges. The column wheel has parts of the base cog wheel polished in order to reduce friction, as well. The tourbillon cage is comprised of 48 parts, several of which are done in 18k gold, like the upper tourbillon bridge and oscillating rotor.The movement is Chronofiable-certified, which isn’t a household name like COSC or other tests, but it’s noteworthy, nonetheless. Carried out at Laboratoire Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Chronofiable certification has to do with the durability and toughness of the watch and movement. This process simulates shocks, acceleration, and temperature changes over 21 days, which is equivalent to six months of wear. This is the same certification you’ll find on some Richard Mille watches such as the RM 035 Rafael Nadal, though I believe they now have an in-house test. La Joux-Perret has two patents having to do with protection of the tourbillon, which they call a “shockproof” tourbillon. In addition to Incabloc shock absorbers, they reduced the tourbillon down to as few components as possible and constructed a double-bridge for rigidity and stability.

Given how delicate tourbillons can be, I think the reassurance of the Chronofiable certification is pretty important if you want to actually wear this watch around as its meant to be without worrying. The chronograph is activated and paused via the trigger pusher, while the gripped pusher at 10 o’clock resets it. With the 30-minute chronograph counter sub-dial at 9 o’clock and that big tourbillon stretching between 3 and 6 o’clock, there really isn’t any room left on the dial for much else. I’m pretty agnostic about the matching black carbon dial that matches the case, and I do think a bit more could be done with the Graham logo and indices that are in a white varnish finish. It’s just a bit flat, for me. Still, the large lumed red gold hands match the red gold seconds hand that is set inside the tourbillon aperture very nicely and contrast with the black carbon in a way that’s refined but still appropriate for the military-watch vibe of the Graham Chronofighter.

Graham CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE

At Baselworld 2016, Graham celebrated the 15th anniversary of its Chronofighter model with the release of four ‘vintage’ models. On my return to the UK I was offered the opportunity to ‘get hands-on’ with a version of my choosing. I immediately gravitated to a model featuring a captivating blue dial, with coordinating leather strap, and very soon the timepiece was temporarily mine.

This ‘Graham Chronofighter Vintage’ timepiece was inspired by the stopwatches once used by RAF flying officers during World War II. These watches, effectively pocket watches strapped to the sleeve of a bomber jacket, were vital when carrying out flying sorties, especially at night.

While operating at high altitudes, in non-pressurised cockpits, the pilots and their timepieces were exposed to freezing temperatures and their watches had to be tough to survive this hostile working environment. Therefore, both precision and reliability are two prerequisites for aviators’ watches.

As well as wearing the now iconic leather Irvin flying jackets, lined with sheepskin, the flying officers also wore thick gloves, keen to stave off biting temperatures. However, in the confines of the cockpit, the gloves inhibited free movement of fingers, hence a thumb operated trigger proved the optimal ergonomic solution.

Eric Loth, the founder of Graham Chronofighter Vintage , an engineer and physicist by trade, spoke to medical professionals and learned that the thumb is the fastest acting finger. Moreover, the thumb can move independently of other fingers. With this in mind and inspired by military aviation of yesteryear, he conceived the unusual trigger device which adorns the left hand flank of the Chronofighter’s case.
In order to accurately measure elapsed time, it is critical that the time taken from observing an event to the moment the chronograph is actuated is kept to an absolute minimum. Equally, the same applies when the elapsed interval has passed and the wearer needs to stop the chronograph. The trigger design of the Graham Chronofighter Vintage mitigates this ‘human factor’, proving intuitive to use, courtesy of its ergonomic interface with the right thumb.
Graham has not plagiarised the designs of other horological marques but conceived its own very distinctive and, in my opinion, handsome timepiece.

The dial lucidly converses with the wearer and the trigger is user-friendly, bestowing a superb tactile interface with the watch. Moreover, the trigger mitigates the time the wearer spends thinking about actuating the chronograph, or conversely, halting the stopwatch function.
The timepiece proved to be a stylish horological companion during its time in my possession. Its prepossessing blue colour-scheme proved ideal for pairing with jeans and casual shirts. Moreover, the watch evoked optimistic thoughts of blue skies on a summer’s day, a fitting notion for a pilot’s watch. The trigger, Graham’s ingenious idea, shows a notable dose of blue-sky thinking. Indeed, perhaps we should rename Eric Loth, ‘Mr Blue Sky’.

Graham SWORDFISH

The Graham Swordfish watch brand as we know it really planted its feet with the Swordfish collection of timepieces. This fished-eye family actually began with a single eye design in the Swordfish Grillo. Double magnifier eyes were later added to the 46mm wide collection. While the Swordfish family really began around 2001, it was not until 2005 or so that it started becoming really popular as Graham matured the design and started to add more colorful pieces. For a long time the Swordfish collection mirrored the market of the era, and as a rather wild and unorthodox piece, was Graham’s top seller.
More recently Graham released the Graham Swordfish Booster. This model upped the case size to 48mm wide and flipped the crown and chronograph pushers to the left side of the case. The Swordfish Booster retained the essential double magnifier concept which was Graham’s attempt to embolden the idea of the cyclops magnifier that brands such as Rolex made famous as a means of making the date window easier to read. Graham’s idea was to use a metal ring framed magnifier over the sapphire crystal to magnify the chronograph subdials by about 15%.
Inside each Swordfish watch is a Swiss La Joux-Perret automatic chronograph movement – which is a base ETA that in this instance has been modified to have a full 12 hour chronograph with a subsidiary seconds hand built into the 12 hour counter. While not terribly easy to see, there is a running seconds hand. Graham calls this movement their caliber G1710, and it has a power reserve of about 48 hours. The rear of the watch has a tinted sapphire crystal that allows for a view of the darkened movement – in the right light. Despite the dark shades of the movement, there is an appreciable amount of decor on the movement surfaces.

In steel, the 48mm wide case is marked by steeply curved lugs and a slightly larger-than-life presence. It is water resistant to 100 meters and is surprisingly comfortable on the wrist. While the crown and pushers might seem a bit excessive, they are actually very comfortable to use – especially the crown. I enjoy the grated texture on the slightly concave chronograph pushers as well. Because the movement is flipped for a left-side orientation, you’ll use the bottom pusher to start and stop the chronograph, while the top pusher is used to reset it.
This specific Swordfish Booster model has the little term “Iris” as part of its title – and that signifies something rather unique. In this instance “Iris” is another word for rainbow, and refers to the special iridescent coating on the steel case. Using a PVD application process, the case is coated several times and heat treated to get this special iridescent black case color. As I understand it, the case has several layers of this coated film – each being a slightly different thickness. This property offers a unique type of light reflectivity.
Depending on the finishing of the surface, the case colors play in the light, with many colors being shades of green and purple. Graham’s own marketing images intensify this effect a bit, but the real-life experience is satisfying. I only wished that some of the more colorful finishes would have also been used on the bezel – as the best parts of the case for experiencing the color shifts are on the side and rear portions of the case. To compliment the qualities of the case, the Graham Swordfish Booster Iris watch uses a black (Tahitian) mother-of-pearl dial. The dial further uses hands and hour markers with black colored SuperLumiNova. I personally am a fan of mother-of-pearl, and enjoy when it can be successfully implemented into a man’s timepiece. You’ll notice that the chronograph subdials are black with a snailed texture.

While not always suitable for a watch, Graham’s choice to match the Swordfish Booster Iris with a deep green alligator strap was a good idea. It is matched with a polished black ceramic buckle. Regrettably the Swordfish collection suffers when it comes to legibility. The Booster’s hands are probably necessarily skeletonized, and in this instance don’t contrast enough with the dial. For that phantom look it works, but the dial isn’t easy to read. Of course, the largest legibility issue is related to the fact that the hands – while properly sized – must pass under the magnifier eyes, making them difficult to spot. Wearing this agreeably unique (and in my opinion quite fashionable) watch requires a legibility sacrifice. Having said that, I should add that the chronograph counters are easy to see!

As an example of the Graham Swordfish Booster collection, there are few models more unique than the Iris. It carries a bit of a premium price over its siblings due to the case. My understanding is that producing the iridescent case is less than a perfect science. That means many cases come out of the process with uneven colors and a blotchy look. The unpredictable and less than industrial technique adds time to the production of these watches and rarity to their availability.

Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon

Ihave a soft spot for watch brands that lean into doing things a bit differently, and the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon is up there as a divisive design signature that has defined the brand. The chronograph trigger on the left side of the case was inspired by a countdown timer watch that Universal Geneve developed for the Italian Air Force back in the 1930s and has been a staple of the Chronofighter for about 20 years now. But does the unconventional military-inspired design translate when we’re talking about a complication like a tourbillon chronograph rather than a casual sports watch?

Limited to 100 pieces, the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon Skeleton Tourbillograph is all about being big. At 47mm-wide in a very lightweight black carbon case, it’s also got one of the biggest tourbillons around that I’ve seen. Vintage military design, modern case construction, and legit horological chops all make for what is overall a pretty compelling package for an admittedly niche person — that is, if your wrist and wallet are big enough. While the case size is 47mm-wide, that’s without the chronograph trigger. My calipers have it at 57mm-wide with the trigger, 17.5mm-thick, and with a lug-to-lug height of 55mm. What’s also big is the tourbillon, which I don’t have a precise measurement for, but the ends of the bridges are about 21mm apart. I think a more conventionally sized smaller tourbillon would look funny in a watch this big and aggressive, but Graham pulled it off.
The watch is really light, though I felt a little silly being surprised when I first picked it up considering “Superlight” is right there in the name. Still, the large case size and aggressive design don’t betray the 100g weight (which is just about what a Tudor Black Bay on strap weighs). This is, of course, due to the black carbon composite case, though the tourbillon cage itself comes in at 0.485g, which is a feather more than the 0.403g weight of Audemars Piguet’s tourbillon cage used in its current production models. Watch media can get a little overexcited in covering the newest record-breaking thinnest or lightest watches, but the reality is that while the Graham isn’t any particular record holder, it’s about as light as I could perceive a watch this size on my wrist to be. While it’s certainly big for me, if your wrist circumference is > 8 inches, the Chronofighter Tourbillograph really is pretty practical when you consider its unobtrusive weight and 100M of water resistance. The chronograph trigger on the left side of the case is a quirky design signature, for sure, but at least it’s not going to be confused with anything else out there, which is more than I can say for a lot of watches. The G1780 is an automatic column-wheel chronograph and tourbillon that Graham first introduced about 10 years ago when it was outfitted in a watch from the brand’s Silverstone collection. This movement was made exclusively for Graham by La Joux-Perret and, while it’s not new, it’s actually got some interesting stuff going for it. First off, it’s rare to see a tourbillon that is integrated into a column-wheel chronograph, the wheels of which you can see at work through the tourbillon cage. Operating at 28,800 vph with a 48-hour power reserve, the G1780 is hand-finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, chamfering, and polished edges. The column wheel has parts of the base cog wheel polished in order to reduce friction, as well. The tourbillon cage is comprised of 48 parts, several of which are done in 18k gold, like the upper tourbillon bridge and oscillating rotor. The movement is Chronofiable-certified, which isn’t a household name like COSC or other tests, but it’s noteworthy, nonetheless. Carried out at Laboratoire Dubois in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Chronofiable certification has to do with the durability and toughness of the watch and movement. This process simulates shocks, acceleration, and temperature changes over 21 days, which is equivalent to six months of wear. This is the same certification you’ll find on some Richard Mille watches such as the RM 035 Rafael Nadal, though I believe they now have an in-house test. La Joux-Perret has two patents having to do with protection of the tourbillon, which they call a “shockproof” tourbillon. In addition to Incabloc shock absorbers, they reduced the tourbillon down to as few components as possible and constructed a double-bridge for rigidity and stability.

Given how delicate tourbillons can be, I think the reassurance of the Chronofiable certification is pretty important if you want to actually wear this watch around as its meant to be without worrying. The chronograph is activated and paused via the trigger pusher, while the gripped pusher at 10 o’clock resets it. With the 30-minute chronograph counter sub-dial at 9 o’clock and that big tourbillon stretching between 3 and 6 o’clock, there really isn’t any room left on the dial for much else. I’m pretty agnostic about the matching black carbon dial that matches the case, and I do think a bit more could be done with the Graham logo and indices that are in a white varnish finish. It’s just a bit flat, for me. Still, the large lumed red gold hands match the red gold seconds hand that is set inside the tourbillon aperture very nicely and contrast with the black carbon in a way that’s refined but still appropriate for the military-watch vibe of the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon .

Graham CHRONOFIGHTER VINTAGE

At Baselworld 2016, Graham Chronofighter Vintage celebrated the 15th anniversary of its Chronofighter model with the release of four ‘vintage’ models. On my return to the UK I was offered the opportunity to ‘get hands-on’ with a version of my choosing. I immediately gravitated to a model featuring a captivating blue dial, with coordinating leather strap, and very soon the timepiece was temporarily mine.

This ‘Vintage’ timepiece was inspired by the stopwatches once used by RAF flying officers during World War II. These watches, effectively pocket watches strapped to the sleeve of a bomber jacket, were vital when carrying out flying sorties, especially at night.

While operating at high altitudes, in non-pressurised cockpits, the pilots and their timepieces were exposed to freezing temperatures and their watches had to be tough to survive this hostile working environment. Therefore, both precision and reliability are two prerequisites for aviators’ watches.

As well as wearing the now iconic leather Irvin flying jackets, lined with sheepskin, the flying officers also wore thick gloves, keen to stave off biting temperatures. However, in the confines of the cockpit, the gloves inhibited free movement of fingers, hence a thumb operated trigger proved the optimal ergonomic solution.

Eric Loth, the founder of Graham, an engineer and physicist by trade, spoke to medical professionals and learned that the thumb is the fastest acting finger. Moreover, the thumb can move independently of other fingers. With this in mind and inspired by military aviation of yesteryear, he conceived the unusual trigger device which adorns the left hand flank of the Chronofighter’s case. In order to accurately measure elapsed time, it is critical that the time taken from observing an event to the moment the chronograph is actuated is kept to an absolute minimum. Equally, the same applies when the elapsed interval has passed and the wearer needs to stop the chronograph. The trigger design of the Graham Chronofighter Vintage mitigates this ‘human factor’, proving intuitive to use, courtesy of its ergonomic interface with the right thumb.
Graham has not plagiarised the designs of other horological marques but conceived its own very distinctive and, in my opinion, handsome timepiece.

The dial lucidly converses with the wearer and the trigger is user-friendly, bestowing a superb tactile interface with the watch. Moreover, the trigger mitigates the time the wearer spends thinking about actuating the chronograph, or conversely, halting the stopwatch function.

The high quality construction of the Graham Chronofighter Vintage means its asking price of Graham Chronofighter Vintage represents superb value for money.

The timepiece proved to be a stylish horological companion during its time in my possession. Its prepossessing blue colour-scheme proved ideal for pairing with jeans and casual shirts. Moreover, the watch evoked optimistic thoughts of blue skies on a summer’s day, a fitting notion for a pilot’s watch. The trigger, Graham’s ingenious idea, shows a notable dose of blue-sky thinking. Indeed, perhaps we should rename Eric Loth, ‘Mr Blue Sky’.