Can you believe it? Five years already. And while the collection might have been slightly (okay, more than slightly) maligned at launch, it seems to be finally hitting its stride. With the release of smaller 38mm Codes last year, plus better dial textures and indices, AP seemed to crack the – you know what, I’m not going to say it. This year, there are a few changes to the collection. First, you’ll no longer see Code 11.59 in white gold for chronographs and time-only pieces. Complications are still theoretically fair game, but we were told that steel and white gold seemed too close to each other and tended to cannibalize their own market. So expect to see more pink gold – the only gold variant the brand is doing on the Code for now https://www.highluxurystore.ru.
I didn’t get to spend much time with the Codes, but this is what we saw. The introductions were all dial variations on the now-existing platforms of 38mm and 41mm self-winding pieces and the 41mm chronographs, all in pink gold with stamped dials. In 38mm by 9.6mm models, you can now see the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” color of the original ref. 5402 Royal Oak on the stamped texture dial, delivered with a matching alligator strap or blue textured rubber. There’s also a much lighter light blue dial, a color between powder blue and turquoise. The 41mm three-hand (with date) models now come in that same dark blue and green (like seen on the steel pieces last year). Finally, the chronographs have blue, green, or black dial options now, and yes, they’re all now the stamped dial style from the steel chronographs, a massive improvement.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding, ref. 77410OR (38mm) and 15210OR (41mm), 38mm by 9.6mm OR 41mm by 10.7mm 18k pink gold case, with 30m water resistance; Light blue (38mm only), “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” or green dial with stamped motif, applied pink gold hour- markers and hands with luminescent material, and matching color inner bezel; Self-winding Calibre 5900 with 60 hours of power reserve (38mm) or Self-winding Calibre 4302 with 70 hours of power reserve (41mm). Textured rubber straps in matching colors.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Ref. 26393OR; 41mm diameter by 12.6mm thick 18k pink gold case, with 30m water resistance. “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” or green dial with stamped motif, applied pink gold hour- markers and hands with luminescent material, and matching color inner bezel, gold surrounds on the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock subdials; Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date; Selfwinding Calibre 4401 and 70 hours of power reserve. Color-matching textured rubber strap.
Category: Audemars Piguet Watch
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium
Among the myriad releases we expect to see from Audemars Piguet this year, few are as anticipated as watches made to celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium. The Offshore has always stood on its own as the unapologetically burly, often weird, and even sometimes unwieldy sibling of the Royal Oak family. That is until today. With the announcement of the newest Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium in black ceramic alongside a brand-new Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT, two very wild and intense watches.
The newest Royal Oak Concept (ROC) is, as all the concepts are, a particular beast representing the brand’s most futuristic watchmaking. Despite the “RD” name of the Research and Development watches from recent years, the Concept line has long been the main platform for Audemars Piguet’s R&D experimentation, and the new cutting-edge movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4407, is yet another example. Based on the integrated flyback chronograph movement calibre 4401, launched in a Code 11.59 in 2019, the new movement was modified to combine a flyback chronograph, split seconds, GMT function, and large date at 12 on the dial.
The dial itself is quintessential ROC, with depth and sportiness from the rounded openings cut out from a single German silver plate, finished with sandblasted black PVD and polished rhodium-toned bevels. The hands and hour markers are white gold and the hour-markers, hands, counters, large date, and GMT day/night disc have a luminescent coating. The whole package is finished with red and yellow accents, respectively marking the chronograph and GMT functions for a pop of color.
All this comes in a new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium 43mm sandblasted titanium case with the Concepts collection’s first interchangeable strap system. And while it’s a massive 17.4mm size, you still have the ergonomics that make the Concept both visually compelling and what AP calls “surprisingly wearable,” albeit obviously very much a statement piece with a statement price of CHF 150,000. Only 150 pieces will be made each year.
The other release isn’t the first Tourbi-Chrono Offshore of its kind, but it comes with a bunch of design decisions that makes it feel more like the quintessential bright and colorful Offshore than previous iterations.
The new release cues from a 2021 Limited Edition offshore – including the caliber 2952 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium movement used in the Code 11.59 in 2020 – and cranks it up a notch. Instead of the previous relatively low-key design and color palette, Audemars Piguet has gone with a brand new, state-of-the-art ceramic case with anodized green inner bezel and green anodized inner bevels on the bridges supporting the dial and movement architecture on the front. At the rear is a black ceramic caseback, a first for the 43mm Offshore lineup, and glare-proofed sapphire on the back to admire the blackened 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight.
The case is fully hand-finished with satin brushing and hand-polished chamfers. In addition to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Flying Tourbillon Chronograph Ceramic Titanium , you have two translucent chronograph counters punctuated by a black ring around each to read your timing measurements while not obstructing too much of the finishing on the movement underneath. Finally, the watch comes on a green rubber strap that matches the dial accents, with a super-slick quick-release system integrated into the case that allows you to switch to a black rubber strap that’s provided with the watch.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm
In the four years since its launch, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection has become an integral pillar of the brand’s watch offerings.
Featuring a substantial assortment of models — from time-only functions up to and including perpetual calendars and tourbillons — the range would seem to have it all.
But until now, the case sizes in the collection were limited to 41 millimeters and 42 millimeters.
Now, the brand is offering a slimmed-down, pink-gold watch that measures a more petite 38 millimeters across.
“In keeping with Audemars Piguet’s focus on watches designed for all wearers, it’s important to present a product range that is vast and versatile,” says Ginny Wright, the CEO of Audemars Piguet Americas. “The introduction of the 38 mm case size to the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection is significant as it represents our commitment to continuous evolution.” This new timepiece has not only evolved in size, but it features an embossed dial in a rich ivory tone, exclusively crafted for the collection. (A second version of the new watch is available in purple.) Slim dandy: Audemars Piguet is offering a Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet clocking in at a mere 38 millimeters.Diode SA – Denis Hayoun
Swiss guilloché craftsman Yann von Kaenel was specially commissioned by Audemars Piguet to collaborate on the new watch’s textured dial. The mesmerizing wave-like pattern is achieved by piercing the metal with hundreds of tiny holes. The color is applied by the physical vapor deposition technique, also known as PVD, which ensures a saturated tone with a gradient structure, while still allowing the details of the intricate design to be visible.
The watch’s impressive Calibre 5900 self-winding movement powers its pink-gold hour, minute, and seconds hands, as well as the date, which is visible through an aperture at 3 o’clock.
Slim, faceted, and polished hour markers add to the elegance of the design. A shiny large-scale alligator strap matches the dial, and is secured by a pink-gold buckle engraved with “Audemars Piguet.” An additional ivory textured rubber strap with a calfskin lining is available in boutiques.
“The beauty of the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection is in its capacity to be worn for any occasion, by any person,” says Wright. “Designed with slimmer wrists in mind, the new iterations meet both the needs of our clients and the interests of modern collectors, opening the door for a broader community to discover the collection and brand.”
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph
You may have noticed a lot of Offshores recently, and wouldn’t you know it, it’s the 30th Anniversary of this oversized beast of a lineup. As a fitting salute to the original, Audemars Piguet’s has announced the first ever Royal Oak Offshore in black ceramic with matching ceramic bracelet, the new Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 26238C – now badder and bolder than ever. This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph burly (42mm wide, 15.4mm thick) watch pulls from the greatest hits of AP’s Offshores from the last 30 years but in never-before-seen combinations. In addition to the new inclusion of a black ceramic bracelet, you’ll notice a Petite Tapisserie dial pattern previously reserved for the ref. 26238 Selfwinding Chronograph models in gold or titanium.
This is also the first completely monochrome dial, which AP has said was difficult to achieve because of the different textures and materials used. The dial is then punched up in legibility with white hands and accents for contrast, with white Arabic numerals for the subdials and tachymeter on the rehaut.
Among the myriad releases we expect to see from Audemars Piguet this year, few are as anticipated as watches made to celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore. The Offshore has always stood on its own as the unapologetically burly, often weird, and even sometimes unwieldy sibling of the Royal Oak family. That is until today.
With the announcement of the newest Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in black ceramic alongside a brand-new Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT, two very wild and intense watches. The newest Royal Oak Concept (ROC) is, as all the concepts are, a particular beast representing the brand’s most futuristic watchmaking. Despite the “RD” name of the Research and Development watches from recent years, the Concept line has long been the main platform for Audemars Piguet’s R&D experimentation, and the new cutting-edge movement, the selfwinding Calibre 4407, is yet another example. Based on the integrated flyback chronograph movement calibre 4401, launched in a Code 11.59 in 2019, the new movement was modified to combine a flyback chronograph, split seconds, GMT function, and large date at 12 on the dial. While AP has used ceramic many times before, it’s still not easy to execute, especially when it comes to getting the mix of polished and satin-finished surfaces to come together.
Inside the watch is the Calibre 4404, a column-wheel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph , activated by ceramic pushers. The layout of the subdials remains the same as historical watches, with a subtle update made in 2021 that puts the hours at the top so the chronograph can be read in order of hours, minutes, and seconds from top to bottom. The movement has the expected Cotês de Genève, circular graining, polished bevels, and other finishing we’ve come to expect from AP, with a 22-karat pink gold oscillating weight.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie
While the “Royal Oak” part of this watch is something that might feel familiar to most of you, there’s another part of the name of this impressive Audemars Piguet that will certainly need some more explanations, and that is the “Supersonnerie” part… The 2.0 version of the minute repeater, a watch that carries 3 patents and multiple unprecedented technical solutions, the Supersonnerie is all about remarkable acoustic performances – an idea that goes back to the 2016 Concept RD1 Acoustic Research Minute Repeater. Today, the brand is unveiling a new version of its Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie, entirely crafted in titanium, with a smoked grey dial.
Developed by Audemars Piguet and launched in 2016 in the Royal Oak Concept collection, the Supersonnerie mechanism endows this new minute repeater model with the volume and resonance usually associated with pocket watches. This patented technology results from 8 years of research in collaboration with EPFL, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne. Inspired by the sonic power of older minute repeater watches as well as by the harmony of musical instruments, a dedicated community of watchmakers, technicians, academics and musicians reviewed the case construction to produce a new chiming technology. It has since been applied to an even more complex Grande Sonnerie Carillon.
While the architecture of the movement itself and the way the time is stroke is fairly similar to other Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie watches, the brand has worked on multiple aspects to enhance the acoustic performance and upgrade the sound quality and harmonic tone. For instance, the gongs are not attached to the mainplate, but to a new device acting as a soundboard, which improves sound transmission and boosts sound amplification – the module visible on the caseback, acting as a resonator. Also, the striking regulator – the device that sets the pace of the hours, quarters and minutes chiming sequence – has been revised and now incorporates an innovative, more flexible anchor system that absorbs shocks and eliminates unwanted noise. Furthermore, an astute mechanical modification of the chiming sequence has mitigated the quarter-hour pause between the chiming of the minutes and the hours, when the watch does not strike the quarter hours. Last but not least, a security function prevents the wearer from activating the hand-setting function while the minute repeater mechanism is striking.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie function is powered by the in-house Calibre 2953, a hand-wound movement made of 362 parts and beating at 3Hz. It stores up to 72 hours of power reserve and brings energy to the minute repeater mechanism, as well as the time display. While the idea of a Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie isn’t new, as we’ve seen already multiple editions of this watch in past years, the brand is now releasing a new, monochromatic and sleek edition of its high-end chiming watch, with new materials and colours.
The 42mm case of the RO Supersonnerie is now crafted from grade 5 titanium, with polished and brushed surfaces – all classic for a Royal Oak watch. In addition to being light and resistant, titanium is also a material of choice for a Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie , with its characteristic sound and known virtues when it comes to amplifying the chime of the repeater. This new Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie 26591TI is worn on a classic titanium bracelet.
New to the model too is the dial, with the emblematic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, now offered in a sleek smoked grey colour with gradient effect. The small seconds at 6 o’clock is black-toned and the watch retains the classic white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM
After quietly releasing a new 34mm white ceramic timepiece last month, Audemars Piguet has recruited Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM for a series of collaborative Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore watches. Merging the timekeeper’s signature codes with the innovative fashion label’s technical language, the selection utilizes high-quality materials to produce label-blending creations that adhere to a holistic sustainable approach.
“A collaboration like this allows for me to explore and extend my knowledge to another area of excellence,” said Matthew Williams, designer and founder of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM .
Bridging fashion and haute horlogerie, Williams and Audemars Piguet took a minimalist approach to design, reducing the gold dials in each model to spotlight their vertical satin finishes. The collection includes timepieces ranging from 37 to 42 mm in diameter, with adaptability for all wrist types.
The two Royal Oak timepieces are composed entirely of 18-carat yellow gold. The 37mm self-winding model counts the hours, seconds and minutes with yellow-gold hands, while its hour markers and date aperture have been removed for simplicity. The 41 mm Royal Oak takes the pared-back aesthetic even further, erasing the chronograph counters and keeping only the hands to circulate around three, six and nine o’clock.
Meanwhile, the Royal Oak Offshore watches stick to the status quo, eliminating many of the dial’s usual information features and leaving just the bare minimum to tell the time. Two models are available in the customer’s choice of 18-carat white or yellow gold, both of which are equipped with an interchangeable strap system.
Across the board, the 37 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models operate with Calibre 5909; the 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding model is powered by Calibre 4409, and the Royal Oak Offshore models utilize Calibre 4404.
Audemars Piguet is a watchmaker that needs little introduction, and just yesterday, AP introduced four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore references in collaboration with designer Matthew Williams of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM . Alongside them is a unique Royal Oak to be auctioned for charity. These new Royal Oak and RO Offshore models offer a unique aesthetic in both yellow and white gold. And while I’ll never be able to own one, I find them pretty exciting.
Introducing so many new references in the Royal Oak line is headline enough, but in addition, Audemars Piguet is collaborating with the fashion brand Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1017 ALYX 9SM with input from Matthew Williams, the fashion brand’s designer and founder. For those who want to know, the name “Alyx” is that of Matthew Williams’ daughter. The number “1017” is a reference to his birthday, October 17th, and “9SM” is an abbreviation of the brand’s founding studio address in Saint Mark’s Place, New York City. Now that we have got a translation of the name, let’s take a look at the watches.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 67656
While we get access to some pretty special cars, bottles of whisky, and watches here at Man of Many, it’s not every day you get to spend a few hours up close and personal with some of the rarest and most sought-after new models from Audemars Piguet. And it’s a particularly special occasion when the vast majority of those watches are Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 67656 references.
Not only are some of these pieces worth upwards of AUD$100,000, but they represent the pinnacle of what it means to be very successful. So what’s it like to wear these watches? Do you feel like you made it? If you’re fortunate enough to buy one, should you? We put them on the wrist to find out.
First off the rank is the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-thin ref. 16202 with the new blue grained dial. Powered by the Calibre 7121 movement – introduced back in January 2022 for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak – it’s one of the most perfectly executed pieces we’ve ever had the pleasure of putting on the wrist.
It starts with the 39mm white gold case. Comfortable, perfectly balanced, and matched with a hardly believable 8.1mm thickness. In the modern tie-less era of business casual, it’s the ultimate timepiece. Sliding under a white business shirt during the week, a linen shirt on the weekend, or paired with a polo shirt on the tennis court, we could see ourselves wearing this piece every day.
Beyond the integrated links on the white gold bracelet, the blue grained dial is the standout. With details that hark back to 1992 and the 20th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 67656 (reference 14802), it’s best seen in dimmer natural light. The way in which even the smallest amounts of light reflects off the dial is hard to explain. We chose to photograph these in darker conditions to test the theory, and you’ll notice that you can still make out the details in the background of the date window. Individual grains shine like stars and with the addition of a white gold case and bracelet, the contrast adds the right amount of modernity to this timeless piece.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 67656 Chronograph. This is a watch that is so known to many of you, it may not need much of an analysis – but this is HODINKEE and you can believe you’re gonna get one. The Royal Oak Chronograph is a watch that has thousands of lovers the world over, and a few detractors, too. The ROC, as I’ll call it henceforth, is something of a middle ground between two completely distinct Audemars Piguet buyers – the collectors, and, well, everyone else. The Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore families often appeal to very different people, but I’ll get to that shortly. In this review, I tackle a mainstay in the AP lineup, and an interesting piece of haute horology, though one without its own in-house movement. I will look at how this 41mm column-wheel, vertical clutch chronograph wears, and if the matter of where the movement came from is even something worth noting at all. This is your HODINKEE Week On The Wrist with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 67656 , and it’s one worth spending some time with.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak OffShore 26231
To mark the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 1993, Audemars Piguet launched a beefier, more virile, ultra-robust version known as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. With its gigantic – at that time – 42mm diameter and bold combinations of materials, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was referred to as “The Beast”. Over the years, the Royal Oak Offshore has adapted to unisex market trends and is now offered in a wide range of sizes. The latest dispatch is four 37mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs attracting the limelight thanks to their vibrant coloured gemstone or icy white diamond-set bezels. Conforming to the recent overhaul of the family, the quartet of chronographs also flaunt a new Lady Tapisserie motif and subtle design tweaks on the dial.
The Royal Oak Offshore’s 30th birthday is still in full swing, following in the wake of anniversary pieces like the sleek black ceramic and gold JPS ROO chronograph, the complex ROO tourbillon and chronograph, a full black ceramic ROO and even a nostalgic revival of a ROO chronograph celebrating Schwarzenegger’s 1999 blockbuster End of Days.
The latest quartet of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs share 37mm cases with a height of 12.4mm and 50m water resistance. Compared to the abovementioned models with 100m water-resistant cases (including the tourbillon and chrono combo), the water resistance of these 37mm models is a little on the low side for a robust sports watch. Highlighting the architecture of the case, the octagonal bezel is polished, and the case is finished with contrasting matte satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers. Despite the precious gemstone setting in the bezel, the eight screws still play a starring role.
Not only do they come in a choice of precious and non-precious metals, but the four new models also feature vibrant gem-set dials with brilliant-cut or baguette-cut stones. The four models are configured as follows: the bezel of the 18k pink gold case is set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial is light blue, and the rubber strap is beige; the bezel of the stainless steel case is set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial is salmon, and the rubber strap is grey; the bezel of the 18k yellow gold case is set with 32 baguette-cut tsavorites and blue and yellow sapphires, the dial is blue, and the rubber strap is blue; the bezel of the second 18k pink gold case is set with a tutti-frutti gradient combination of 32 baguette-cut rubies, tsavorites, topaz, tanzanites, amethyst and multi-coloured sapphires, the dial is black, and the rubber strap is black.
Following the evolution of the ROO Chronograph in 43mm, AP has decided it’s time for the 37mm to get a subtle design makeover. Novelties include the new Lady Tapisserie motif on the dial with slightly wider truncated pyramids than on previous editions, the elimination of the snailed decoration on the chapter ring and the incorporation of the new AP monogram at noon replacing the transferred Audemars Piguet signature of earlier versions. The applied gold hour markers are also slightly more prominent and, like the gold Royal Oak hour and minute hands, are treated with luminescent coating. Thankfully, the background colour of the date window, lodged between the indices at 4 and 5 o’clock, matches the colour of the dial.
As we mentioned at the beginning of this article, the new 37mm chronographs are not equipped with AP’s latest-generation in-house chronograph calibre 4401. The movement used inside is the AP calibre 2385 based on the architecture of the Frédéric Piguet 1185. An automatic, integrated column-wheel chronograph with a tricompax layout, the movement beats a frequency of 21,600vph/3Hz and provides a power reserve of 40 hours for the chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date functions.
The rubber straps accompanying the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watches come with a second rubber strap in a different colour and are fitted with a folding clasp matching the case material and AP’s interchangeable system.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition Ceramic
Audemars Piguet introduces five new 37 mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watches, including a black ceramic version of its Music Edition and four new Chronograph models.
Among the new timepieces presented by the esteemed Swiss watchmaker, the black ceramic Music Edition stands out, paying homage to the brand’s longstanding collaborative relationship with artists and the music world.
The timepiece features a black ceramic case, a Tapisserie dial inspired by an equalizer, and the self-winding Calibre 5909 movement. As an extension of the collection launched in 2022, the ceramic black design elements create a fresh aesthetic, illuminating the dial to create a contemporary and vibrant appearance. Other details include a screw-locked crown, complemented by titanium accents, including knurled-textured studs, fader-inspired crown guards and a pin buckle on the black rubber strap.
Accompanying the Music Edition, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watches unveiled four 37 mm Selfwinding Chronograph models, designed to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore collection. These timepieces feature bezels adorned with either brilliant-cut diamonds or colorful baguette-cut gemstones, expressing both sportiness and glamour. The models are available in a choice of 18-carat pink gold, yellow gold, or stainless steel cases.
The dial of the 37 mm Selfwinding Chronograph models has undergone a design evolution, featuring a new Lady Tapisserie motif with slightly wider truncated pyramids and more prominent hour markers for an updated look. Customization of the watches includes the choice between gem-set bezels in brilliant-cut diamonds or a vibrant gradation of baguette-cut gemstones. A variety of dials are also offered, including light blue, royal blue, black and salmon.
All models in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watches collection come with Audemars Piguet’s interchangeable strap system, allowing for customization and versatility. The diamond-set models are accompanied by a pin buckle, while the baguette-set versions feature an AP folding clasp. Each of the timepieces is powered by the self-winding Calibre 2385 movement, which displays hours, minutes, small seconds, date and also precise chronograph functions.
The black ceramic Music Edition is limited to 250 pieces, while the Chronograph supply has not been specified by Audemars Piguet at the time of writing. Those interested in purchasing should place an inquiry with their authorized dealer. For more details, visit the brand’s official website.
In the 30th anniversary year of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, we’re treated to a wide variety of new models. With the latest drop, the brand focuses on the 37mm Royal Oak Offshore, predominantly targeting ladies. But we know some gentlemen with smaller wrists also prefer wearing a 37mm Royal Oak. Whether that will also be the case with these blingy new models with diamond and gemstone-set bezels remains to be seen. There is also a new 37mm addition to the Royal Oak Offshore Music Editions. The year 2023 turns out to be quite a colorful one for the Royal Oak Offshore.
In the last year of Audemars Piguet CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, the brand puts out a wild variety of colorful Royal Oak Offshore releases. They are quite a step away from the ultra-technical Royal Oak Offshore aesthetic of “The Beast” that introduced the line. Audemars Piguet adds five new 37mm Royal Oak Offshore chronographs to its collection in the latest drop. The five colorful models feature diamond and gemstone set bezels and combine them with the sporty aesthetic of the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph. It’s summer, and Audemars Piguet celebrates it in typical AP style.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph ref. 25721ST is an illustrious timepiece that debuted in 1993. The Offshore was meant to rejuvenate the Royal Oak and attract a new, younger audience. The watch was the brainchild of 22-year-old designer Emmanuel Gueit, who came up with a chunky creation that took elements of Gérald Genta’s original design and magnified them. The 42mm watch received the nickname “The Beast” and did what it was supposed to do. The “ROO” soon became the watch for race car drivers, power players, and jet-setters. Thirty years later, “The Beast” is back in black — black ceramic, that is. Audemars Piguet’s 2023 lineup also consists of a string of new Royal Oak models — including one in yellow gold with a turquoise dial and a boutique-only white gold “RO” with a blue grained dial — plus a selection of steel Code 11.59 watches with reworked dials.
Thirty years ago, the exuberant Royal Oak Offshore revitalized the Royal Oak and turned a new generation onto Audemars Piguet. It also became the watch of choice for affluent people (wannabe) motorsport stars who liked to flaunt their lifestyle of abundance. As in motorsport, however, dominance doesn’t last forever, so the “ROO” got overtaken by the lightweight creations of Richard Mille. In 2023, the ROO has a different role to play. The sportiest of all Royal Oak creations needs to distract people from desperately wanting and unsuccessfully hunting a classic Royal Oak. The introduction of “The Beast” in sinister-looking black might have quite a few heads turning since its relatively understated looks build a bridge between the two RO collections.
The 42 × 15.3mm Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph (26238CE.OO.1300CE.01) is one of only three current Royal Oak Offshore models with a Petite Tapisserie dial and the first with a black ceramic case and a matching bracelet. The watch’s monochromatic looks are both sober and sophisticated. “The Beast” in its 2023 guise has instrument-like qualities, but the detailing and finishing are luxurious to the max. Inside the case beats the 433-part caliber 4404, Audemars Piguet’s integrated, in-house chronograph movement with a flyback function and a 70-hour power reserve. The chronograph is operated by classic round pushers, a detail that harks back to the original from 1993. The audience that “AP” has in mind with this watch most likely won’t be shocked by the €84,000 price tag of “The Beast.” Are you?
The angular shape of the pushers and the Méga Tapisserie dial pattern are tell-tale signs of the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph (26420CE.OO.A127CR.01 / €60,000). This is a different “beast” in a 43mm black ceramic case with yellow gold details on the dial, push-piece guards, studs, and buckle. The case, which has the latest ergonomic design with large, polished chamfers on the edges and a slightly curved bezel, also has more gold details on the back. There, the precious metal frames a sapphire crystal that allows a view of the 381-part, 4Hz caliber 4401. This is AP’s latest chronograph movement, a self-winding, integrated caliber that features a column wheel and a flyback function.
No matter the “engine,” this black and gold ROO evokes thoughts of the famous John Player Special livery of historical Lotus F1 cars. Its intended buyers may not know of these cars that (g)raced the racetracks worldwide because they weren’t born back then, but the powerful color combination is timeless.
You were thinking it, but the 37 × 8.9mm Royal Oak Selfwinding (15550BA.OO.1356BA.01 / €61,200) in 18K yellow gold doesn’t have a Tiffany dial. Instead, it’s a natural turquoise dial that evokes dreams of a tropical sea. Turquoise is a rare stone that was already en vogue with ancient Egyptian and Chinese civilizations because of its illuminating beauty. And in combination with yellow gold, this new RO is like a bright, sunny day in Seychelles. The radiant turquoise dial is only 0.75mm thick, and because it’s cut from a natural stone found in Mexico, every dial is different. What they have in common though, besides their charismatic and desirable look, are applied hour markers and hands in yellow gold with a touch of glow-in-the-dark Super-LumiNova. Inside the case beats the latest automatic caliber 5900, displaying hours, minutes, seconds, and the date. This movement debuted in 2022 in certain 37mm references, and it combines a slim 3.9mm thickness with a 4Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve. The mechanism is visible through the sapphire case back, but my guess is that all eyes will be on the mesmerizing turquoise dial all the time.
The 2023 creation might be a year late to the 50th anniversary party of the RO, but because of its stunning looks this white gold “Jumbo” is forgiven — it’s just fashionably late. The fine grain plays with the light and the use of PVD creates the blue hue. After covering the dial with a translucent coating, the relief and sparkle of the dial evokes a clear night sky above Le Brassus. Ad the Super-LumiNova on the white gold hour markers and Royal Oak hands make sure you can still read the time during the dark nights in Le Brassus.
Inside the 39 × 8.1mm case of this noble limited edition beats the Calibre 7121, the latest ultra-thin movement that was introduced in January 2022 for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. This 4Hz movement took five years to come alive. And what is does is indicate the hours, minutes, seconds and date with a power reserve of 55 hours. The date features a patented, flat, energy-saving mechanism with a new rapid corrector.