Ulysse Nardin freak x

Over the years Ulysse Nardin freak X continues to prove that it is the true pioneer in watchmaking, breaking down the traditional barriers of construction and design. At the 2022 Watches & Wonders presentation, the Swiss luxury watchmaker, often known for disrupting the timepiece industry with its nautical-inspired pieces, has taken to new heights. It appears that this time around, the newly released watches have taken inspiration from the abysses to the cosmos.

Ulysse Nardin has unveiled the Ulysse Nardin freak X Aventurine is one that comes out of a celestial vault, taking the infinite galaxy as an elegant inspiration for the glittering effect seen on the face of the watch. The brand first introduced the Freak X line in 2019 and has since expanded the lineup to continue its Vertical Odyssey. The Freak X Aventurine is equipped with an extra-large 3 Hz silicium balance wheel. Embracing the sleek design, this 43 mm watch also features a blue PVD titanium and 5N rose gold case. Available on the watch is a blue alligator strap with light grey “points de bride” stitches. This particular wrist piece is limited to only 99 watches for $38,000 USD.

Building on its Ulysse Nardin freak X collection, the Swiss watchmaker has released the Freak S, the very first automatic double oscillator with a differential. As an obvious technical extension of the Freak Vision, the new mechanical marvel features noteworthy innovation that includes an inclined double oscillator that uses DiamonSIL technology, a vertical differential and a grinder automatic winding system. Thanks to the mechanism, the two oscillators of the Freak S never oscillate at the same speed. The new case is inspired by the first Freak from 2001 and includes a combination of ceramic, titanium and gold. The case back is constructed with titanium with black DLC, six screws and a visible grinder through the open sapphire case-back. Similar to the Aventurine, the Freak S also debuts its own sparkly rendition of a starry night. The Freak S is limited to 75 pieces of which only 40 will go into production in 2022 for $260 USD.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht

Monaco, September 22, 2021 – A leading manufacturer of navigational instruments since 1846 the Swiss watch manufacturer’s favourite playground has always been the Ocean. For the past 175 years, Ulysse Nardin has been living, breathing, growing and creating new timepieces to reflect the rhythm of the waves and the sea. This year, to celebrate its 175th anniversary, the company is offering two new limited editions of its DIVER and MARINE Megayacht watches, both inspired by the Ocean and enhanced with new colours touches of red and a special “Monaco Yacht Show” signature for the DIVER, and rose gold instead of platinum for the MARINE Megayacht.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht Show and Ulysse Nardin, the Show’s official sponsor for over 10 years, share a passion for the sea, for Excellence, for precision and for innovation. After a “year off”, the Monaco Yacht Show is back in action and will once again welcome lovers of sumptuous yachts, incredible destinations and luxury getaways in Port Hercules at the end of September. In this idyllic Mediterranean setting, Ulysse Nardin presents two new models, the Diver Monaco Yacht Show watches and the rose gold version of its fabulous and elegant Haute Horlogerie watch, the Marine Mega Yacht. Diver and Marine are the two signature collections of Ulysse Nardin’s nautical line.
Needless to say, the Swiss Manufacture produces some of the most reliable and contemporary diving watches on the market. The new Monaco Yacht Show Limited Edition is the jewel in the crown of the DIVER collection, an ultra-resistant model that does not falter in the face of any attack, even from the most ferocious sharks. The limited-edition, available in only 100 pieces, has a sapphire caseback and is driven by the Manufacture UN 150 automatic movement with silicium and a 48-hour power reserve. The model is also adorned with touches of red from the bezel joint and the seconds hand, to the hands-on the small counters and the date. Also, the “ Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht ” signature is featured under the Ulysse Nardin logo. The case, the bezel and the UN element are made of titanium and the bezel is coated with rubber. Naturally, this model has all the features of a diver’s watch ultra-resistant sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, Superluminova on the O, rotating inverted bezel for optimal readability, even in the deepest waters, and water-resistant down to 300 meters. There are several strap options rubber, metal or fabric with a Velcro fastener.
Launched in 2017, the Marine Torpilleur model encompasses the origins and history of Ulysse Nardin. It is the latest addition to the long line of prestigious timepieces in the Marine collection, which dates back to the 19th century when explorers travelled the oceans with the help of their onboard chronometers. Today, the Marine Torpilleur is the watch that best symbolizes this innovative and cutting edge style. This year, to celebrate its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin has supplemented its Marine Torpilleur collection with two new movements, details, chronographs and enamel dials. But also a new Marine Megayacht in rose gold, to complement the 2019 platinum version.

Built in the same spirit as a luxury Ulysse Nardin Marine Mega Yacht , the new Marine Mega Yacht watch, crafted in pink gold in a special edition of only 30 pieces, is regulated by a flying tourbillon equipped with a cage modelled on a latest-generation ship’s propeller. Intimately linked to the concept of the mega yacht, this timepiece displays on its 3 D “grand feu” enamel dial, reminiscent of a ship’s bow plowing its way through the ocean waves, not only the time but also a precise representation of the Moon with an ultra-detailed surface, a sophisticated tide indicator across its width, together with an anchor raised by a chain attached to a windlass positioned at 12 o’clock indicating the power reserve.
With its diameter of 44 mm, this instrument displays on its dial the streamlined bows of a luxury vessel. Magnificently reproduced in 3D, it seems to surface from a pool of white gold as though it were emerging from the mist, and cuts through a sea of “Grand Feu” Enamel on a wave of foam portrayed with astonishing realism. To guarantee perfect timing, this construction is regulated by a flying tourbillon. To ensure the watch is firmly anchored in the nautical world, the cage of the flying tourbillon is decorated with a propeller with its blades specially honed to guarantee the highest level of performance for the latest generation yachts. And since every detail counts, the hands, with their design inspired by the venerable marine timepieces that the Manufacture has always supplied, move majestically above this scene, like the lamps of lighthouses or buoys floating on the horizon out at sea. This powerful beating heart of the watch has a diameter of 37 mm, features 504 components and is wound by hand. It guarantees a power reserve of 80 hours at a cruising speed of 21,600 vibrations per hour, with the tourbillon rotating at 60 rotations per hour (or one rotation every 60 seconds). Its first role is to provide an analogue time display, giving a three-dimensional presentation of the phases of the Moon and containing a mechanism that displays the height of the tides in real-time in relation to a specific location, in addition to indicating the seasonal coefficients, once the mechanism has been adjusted by the action of the winding crown, the position of which is measured in a window opened up in the side of the watch band in the same way as the screen of an exercise telegraph. Since watchmaking is above all an art form, the anchor, with its contemporary design fashioned in the form of a plowshare, linked to the chain by the anchor ring (and which itself passes through a mooring chock which might have been thought to be entirely decorative), moves in response to the movements of the winding crown so as to indicate the power reserve. Keen to be as realistic as possible, Ulysse Nardin has perfected an authentic miniature windlass, visible at 12 o’clock.

Through the action of a set of conical wheels in contact with the winding mechanism of the barrel, the latter turns to simulate the raising of the anchor, even when the winding process has been fully completed, for the pleasure of any curious observers.

The display of the phases of the Moon is made with the aid of a precise 3D reduced size representation of Earth’s satellite, and which, in order to make a special impact, presents a surface reminiscent of the Moon’s actual surface by reproducing it through the use of an ultra-precise engraving. It is made up of two half-spheres, one treated in blue PVD (for the period of the new Moon) and the other rhodiumized (to simulate the illuminating effect of the Sun). Its adjustment in relation to the annual calendar is undertaken through the winding crown, once its indicator is in place on the telegraph window opened up in the side of the watchband is placed on the corresponding indication (S Set position for setting the hands/TM Tide and Moon position/W position for winding the movement). In the intermediate position, the Moon phase and tide volume indication is regulated by turning the crown counterclockwise (one turn of the crown represents four days), while in the clockwise direction the operator regulates the level of the tide depending on his location (one turn of the crown represents a 0 25 turn of the disk, equivalent to 9 5 hours).

This watch is certainly the only one of its kind, and should offer its 30 future owners a way to follow the manoeuvres made by the crew of their yacht, the name or motto of which may be engraved in the plaque positioned on the side of the watch band so as to make it truly unique.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronometer

Aside from perhaps the Freak, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer is without a doubt the brand’s most recognizable model. And indeed it should be, for when Ulysse Nardin first established his workshop in 1846, he set his sights on producing the finest marine chronometers the world had ever seen. Through the rest of the 19th and early 20th centuries, Ulysse Nardin’s superbly accurate chronometers became indispensable tools for over 50 navies worldwide. In 1996, for the brand’s 150th anniversary, the marine chronometer aesthetic finally made its way into a wristwatch.

In the 25 years since then, the Marine Chronometer has proven to be a very successful style indeed. These days, Ulysse Nardin‘s standard Marine Chronometer features a 43mm case, blocky lugs, an integrated strap, luminescent hands and numerals, a rubberized crown insert, rectangular crown guards, and 100m of water resistance. These rather sporty specs make Ulysse Nardin’s iconic offering an equally capable companion for both the weekend water-dweller and the business-casual bachelor. Their distinctive dials, however, with large Roman numerals, pear hands, sub-seconds, and power reserve indicator, echo an aesthetic formula that has stood the tests of time.
For those seeking a traditional approach to the Marine Chronometer without such rugged features, the Marine Torpilleur sails to the rescue. Originally released in 2017, the Torpilleur gives off a decidedly more restrained air than its sporty sibling. While it provides a dressier look, the Marine Torpilleur reigns in the specs just enough, without sacrificing the most critical Marine Chronometer elements. Ulysse Nardin’s latest limited-edition additions (limited additions?) to the collection introduce a few new color combinations, complications, and materials to the Torpilleur line. 2021 marks the brand’s 175th anniversary. This being no small occasion, Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronometer aims to highlight some of its most characteristic manufacturing techniques and best innovations of the last two decades with these seven new offerings. Let’s dive in and check them out!
Marine Torpilleur Panda and Blue Enamel in stainless steel
In both their cases and complications, these two Marine Torpilleur models are the foundation of the new lineup. In comparison to the standard Marine Chronometer, they feature slightly shrunken cases. Ulysse Nardin reduced them from 43mm to 42mm in diameter and from 51mm to 49mm lug-to-lug. At just 11.13mm in height, they remain quite slim indeed. Instead of the sporty, blocky lugs and integrated straps, the Torpilleur models feature traditional lugs with a 21mm spacing. The tops of the lugs are brushed, while the sides of the case, lugs, and bezel all have a mirror finish. The rubber crown insert and crown guards from the sportier model are now gone, having been swapped for an all-steel, unencumbered crown. Water resistance has also been scaled back from 100m to 50m.
The traditional Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronometer elements, however, are all present. The cases retain their deck-clock-inspired shape and ribbed-edge bezels. Large Roman numerals, a proud sub-seconds indicator and date window at six o’clock, and a smaller power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock give the dial its unmistakable, historical look. In contrast to the standard Marine Chronometer, however, the Torpilleur features no luminescence at all. Rather, the Roman numerals are printed, contrasting the white and blue dials. The silver pear hands on both models feature a highly polished rhodium finish.
While these two models offer nothing new in terms of complications, they do bring some new aesthetic details to the collection. The Panda edition marks the first time (to my knowledge) that the Marine Chronometer has ever had contrasting sub-dials. For fans of legibility, navy blue sub-dials on a white varnish backdrop are a welcomed addition. The Panda’s blue Roman numerals are also a departure from the line’s standard black ones.

Donzé Cadran, the brand’s now-in-house dial manufacture, produced the dial of the Blue Enamel variant. As Ulysse Nardin sees enameling as one of the brand’s most signature artforms, the dial is fired in true “Grand Feu” fashion. Masters apply layer upon layer of enamel dust on a copper base, firing it in a kiln between 760 and 900°C between each one. If you’d like to read more about how these dials are made, check out this article on WatchTime.
The basic Torpilleur models run on Ulysse Nardin‘s manufacture UN-118 caliber. In terms of specs, the movement is quite a nice one indeed. The chronometer-certified, 50-jewel caliber features central hour and minutes, sub-seconds and power reserve indicators, and a quick-set date that can be adjusted both forward and backward. Interestingly, that’s a pretty uncommon feature. Caliber UN-118 beats at 28,800vph and has 60 hours of power reserve. Though the finishing is done by machine, it is quite beautiful. The anchor-shaped rotor features an aged, patina-like weathered finish with raised, highly polished edges and two miniature beveled anchors. All visible screws are blue. While the mainplate is home to generous amounts of perlage, the bridges feature a unique radial striping pattern. Vertical “Geneva stripes” have become nearly an expectation in finishing these days. Circular striping, however, is significantly less common.

In addition to its tasteful finishing, the UN-118 caliber also has a few technical tricks up its sleeve. As the first watch company to pioneer the use of silicon components in 2001, Ulysse Nardin is extremely proud of its silicium hairspring, DIAMonSIL (diamond-coated silicium) escapement, and variable-inertia balance wheel. While “silicium” is actually just an obsolete term for silicon, the brand may use it to avoid negative connotations with cheapness, or even confusion with silicone (no, they are not the same). Regardless, silicon escapements have clear advantages over traditional metal ones. Silicon is light, antimagnetic, and it requires no lubrication. A machine can also cut silicon to tolerances exponentially finer than metal — down to fractions of a micron! As such, escapements with silicon components are not only less prone to wear and magnetism, but they also will require fewer fine, costly adjustments over time.
These models feature the exact same case specifications as the Torpilleur models above, so no need to rehash those here. The main differences on these Moonphase models are the dials, hands, movements, and of course, the additional complication. The movement in this model is the brand new caliber UN-119. This 45-jewel manufacture caliber also runs at 28,800vph, has a power reserve of 60 hours, and is a COSC-certified chronometer. Like the rest of the movements in the Torpilleur collection, UN-119 also features Ulysse Nardin‘s signature silicon escapement and balance spring for added reliability. In exchange for the date indicator, a moonphase fits beautifully within the small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock. The blue night sky is a PVD finish, with silver three-dimensional moon and stars.

While the white dial of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Chronometer Moonphase features the same white varnish and blue Roman numerals as the model above, all four of the hands have been thermally blued. The color complements the blue of the moonphase disc quite nicely, if I may say so myself. The blue dial of the Torpilleur Moonphase is not enamel, but rather, a blue, sunburst PVD finish. High-polished, rhodium-plated hands carry over from the base model. Not only does this model feature a brand new movement, but as far as my research suggests, this is also the first time we’ve ever seen a moonphase complication in the Marine line.
Marine Torpilleur Annual Chronograph
With these models, Ulysse Nardin takes a few steps up the ladder of complications. The UN-153 manufacture caliber inside the Torpilleur Annual Chronograph echoes most of the tech and basic specs of the UN-118 and 119, the obvious difference being its chronograph and annual calendar functions. The brand does not specify whether this movement is COSC-certified. I will assume it is not. It is, however, a fully integrated column-wheel chronograph, capable of timing up to 30 minutes. It also features an annual calendar module by Ludwig Oechslin. The annual calendar complication requires manual adjustment just once a year, on March 1st. Oeschlin is responsible for democratizing this complication (which you can read more about here). Thanks to his module’s simplified construction, one can adjust both the date and the month forward and backward without the risk of damage.

As with the previous models, the dials of Torpilleur Annual Chronograph come in both white and blue. Just like the Torpilleur Moonphase, the white dial of the Annual Chronograph features blue Roman numerals on a white varnish backdrop. The sub-dials, however, have a silvered finish. All of the hands are thermally blued as well. While the blue dial variant features white printing just like the previous models, the blue color is a matte, rather than sunburst, PVD finish. Another really nice touch is the gold chronograph and month hands. Their warm hue contrasts the rhodium-plated hour and minute hands beautifully
Ulysse Nardin takes pride in its history as a chronograph maker. The brand originally produced Chronograph Marine Torpilleur pocket watches from 1936 to 1980. Officials at the 1936 Berlin Olympics even used them, as they were able to measure time to 1/10th of a second. The UN-153 movement has seen action in the standard Marine for quite some time now. This is the first time, however, that we’ve seen a chronograph offered in the modern-day Marine Torpilleur wristwatch. To me, the option makes good, logical sense.

The head-scratcher for me, however, is the case size. Ulysse Nardin actually scaled it up from 42 to 44mm. That makes it even 1mm larger in diameter than its standard Marine Chronograph counterpart. Perhaps this is a historical nod to the Torpilleur chronograph pocket watches old? Thankfully, at least, the circular pump pushers suit the more classic design rather nicely. While I can’t quite wrap my head around the larger diameter, the case does remain nearly a millimeter and a half thinner than the standard Marine Chronograph, at 13.66mm in thickness.
Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu — the king’s crown of the bunch
Continuing its long, illustrious tradition of tourbillon manufacturing, Ulysse Nardin pulls out all the stops with the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon. The UN-128 caliber in this watch has a flying tourbillon, but not just any flying tourbillon, oh no. The caliber features UN’s proprietary silicon constant force escapement. This innovative solution does away with traditional Swiss lever/pallet escapement construction. Instead of a pallet staff, it uses two thin silicon blades that naturally flex with each oscillation of the balance wheel. These blades push the arms of the pallet to lock and unlock the escape wheel. I know we’re getting a bit technical here, but suffice it to say, this escapement is revolutionary. It results in much less energy loss than a standard metal lever escapement. This gives the movement constant torque and therefore better accuracy throughout its entire power reserve.

You can see this escapement in action here and, if you’re up for it, read an in-depth analysis here. Aside from its obviously higher-end complication, caliber UN-128 differs from those previously mentioned with its significantly slower 18,000vph frequency. It does retain, however, the 60-hour power reserve of all the other Marine Torpilleur models, as well as the power reserve indicator. Yes, one must forego the traditional, closed sub-seconds indicator. Honestly, though, that’s quite a small sacrifice considering since the tourbillon doubles as a seconds hand.
Unlike the Torpilleur Annual Chronograph, the Torpilleur Tourbillon features basically the same 42mm case size as its other steel stablemates. It is just slightly taller at 11.93mm in thickness. Of course, the other noticeable difference is its 5N rose gold construction. The rose gold hands match the case perfectly, and they sit above a black Grand Feu enamel dial. While Ulysse Nardin has made standard Marine Tourbillons with both white and blue Grand Feu dials, I believe this is the first black enamel variant in the Marine line. It is also the first tourbillon ever in the Torpilleur case.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase

When we talk about Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase watches and space it’s usually about watches in space, but there’s an obvious connection between horology and celestial bodies, and one way it’s been manifested is in the form of the moonphase complication. Ulysse Nardin has just released four new references in their Marine Torpilleur collection that put this complication on full display. Ulysse Nardin has historically focused on moonphase clocks and watches; the complication fits nicely into their elegant and polished design language, which seems largely unchanged from the brand’s inception in 1846. Ulysse Nardin forged a reputation for its prowess in manufacturing marine chronometers for naval use, and of course, sea tides are dependent on the moon. James Nardin, cousin of Ulysse Nardin, was creating pocket watches with moonphase complications as far back as the 1880s.
The new Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase comes in two variations: One with a white dial, and one with a blue dial. The dial color selection stems from the long history of Ulysse Nardin’s ties to horological traditions involving the moon and the sea. The blue dial is created with a sun-brushed PVD coating, and the white dial is varnished. The stainless steel case measures 42 millimeters, and inside is the manufacturer caliber UN-119, with a balance wheel in Silicium and escapement wheel in Diamonsil that contribute to a 60-hour power reserve. The whole package is water-resistant to 50 meters, enough to comfortably practice celestial navigation at sea using the watch and a sextant, like the Ulysse Nardin wearers of yore.
There are four total references, two with a blue dial, 1193-310LE-3A-175/1A(with a blue strap) and 1193-310LE-3A-175/1B(with a brown strap), and then two with a white dial, 1193-310LE-0A-175/1A (with a blue strap) and 1193-310LE-0A-175/1b (with a brown strap). There will be 150 examples of each made, and they’re priced at $9,900. The caliber UN-119 features the functions of hours, minutes, small seconds, and of course, moonphase. It beats at 28,800 vph, and it employs 45 jewels. The stainless steel case is 42mm, and features polished and satin finishes. The watches will be available at Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase authorized dealers.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur

Grand feu enamel dials, chronographs and high complications were on the menu at Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur for Geneva Watch Days, the micro watch fair taking place this week in Switzerland. Like Bulgari, Ulysse Nardin is a founding partner of the show and, while it only focused on one collection, presented five new models for its Marine Torpilleur collection. All come equipped with Silicium escapements (the company was among the first to use the material in 2001 on its Freak model) and are marked with the signature “Chronometry since 1846” to herald Ulysse Nardin’s 175th anniversary.
The newest generation of Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur chronometers debuted in 2017, as a lighter and thinner iteration of the brand’s Marine Chronometer. Today’s additions provide a range of options for collectors in the market for a dress watch in variations on sizing, complications and elegant dial techniques and designs.
While the highlight of this watch is the patented constant escapement tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which took home the Tourbillon Watch Prize at the GPHG (or Oscar’s of watchmaking) in 2015, the dial should not be overlooked. Over 90 percent handmade, it comes in elite black grand feu enamel executed by the enameling workshop, Donzé Cadrans, which was acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011. It also comes with oversize white Roman numerals and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It is, appropriately, set within a 5N rose-gold case that has been polished and satin-finished and has a fluted bezel. At $48,400 and limited to 175 pieces, this 42 mm by 11.93 mm watch is the priciest offering in the new lineup.
Two Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur versions ($12,100), in varnished white or a matte blue dial set in steel cases with fluted bezels, improve upon independent watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin’s 1996 annual calendar system with improvements to the settings, which can now be adjusted by turning the crown forward or backward for an easier setting of the time and date. The chronograph counter is displayed at 3 o’clock, while the annual calendar and small seconds are indicated in a subdial at 9 o’clock. At 44 mm by 13.66 mm, this is the largest watch in the new collection—a lot of space is needed to pack in the components required to build an annual chronograph—and it is limited to 300 pieces each.
Singing the blues! This striking grand feu blue enamel dial, also handmade by Donzé Cadrans, sets it apart from its brother, the Marine Torpielleur Panda (below). It features contrasting and rather prominent white Roman numerals, along with cathedral hands. It is equipped with the UN-118 caliber with 60 hours of power reserve, indicated at 12 o’clock with a larger subdial at 6 o’clock for the seconds and date window. The 42 mm by 11.3 mm stainless steel timepiece is limited to 175 pieces ($8,200).
This is the first iteration of a Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur dial at Ulysse Nardin. The Swiss watchmaker’s interpretation of the popular dial design—nicknamed for the bear due to its two dark eyes or counters, usually in a horizontal layout in the center of a white dial—and flips tradition in a vertical arrangement of the counters in the same fashion as the Marine Torpilleur Blue Enamel. Here, the blue subdials stand out against a white dial with blue oversize Roman numerals. Also equipped with the UN-118 caliber set within a 43 mm by 11.3 mm stainless steel case, this is essentially the same watch as above without the grand feu enameling and in a different colorway but is offered in 300 pieces ($8,200).
Finally, a moonphase version of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur ($9,900) is offered in either a blue sun-brushed PVD or varnished white dial set in a 42 mm by 11.13 mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel. It is powered by the caliber UN-119, an automatic COSC-certified movement with 60 hours of power reserved indicated at 12 o’clock. Just beneath, at 6 o’clock, is the moonphase set within a subdial that also reads the small seconds. The moon is made with a multi-layer decal, while the starry sky is made of blue PVD. Both versions are limited to 300 each.

Ulysse Nardin Tourbillon Ulysse Anchor

The quintessence of mechanical technology timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel, this new model incorporates the constant Ulysse Anchor Escapement, a constant force escapement with a design that breaks completely with the traditional watchmaking approach. A break-away current, the kind of waters where Ulysse Nardin Tourbillon Ulysse Anchor loves to sail.

Driven by the unending quest for innovation that makes it one of the most dynamic Manufactures, in 2015 Ulysse Nardin dropped a new marker buoy on the capricious ocean of fine watchmaking. An undisputed world first, the new Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon is the quintessence of avant-garde mechanical technology, timelessly arrayed in gold and enamel. The outcome of eight years of research and development, the constant Ulysse Anchor escapement, made entirely of silicium, displays hitherto unknown architecture based on the principle of flexible mechanisms exploiting the elasticity of flat springs. This device, the culmination of the development work on the prototype version presented in 2014, represents the height of timekeeping sophistication today: first, no longer constrained by a pivoting staff, the pallet fork moves entirely without friction; second, the geometrical improvements made to the pallet fork, the escape wheel and the flat springs have resulted in a constant-force escapement; and to crown all of this, this new coinage in watchmaking is brought aboard in a tourbillon cage, the peak of traditional expertise.

Ulysse Nardin has always been driven by a pioneering spirit: in 2001, the Manufacture was the first to develop an escapement made of silicium; it was the first to test a diamond balance spring in 2002; the first to use silicium for its Dual Ulysse escapement – a phenomenon in its own right – in 2005; the first to fit a watch with a diamond escapement, also in 2005; and lastly, the first to use silicium as a kernel for growing diamonds, DIAMonSIL.

In collaboration with Sigatec, a co-owned company specializing in the production of silicium micro-components, the Le Locle-based company spent no less than eight years perfecting this mechanism, which today appears to be a paradigm shift in the approach to mechanical watchmaking. Challenging the principle of the traditional Swiss anchor escapement, the new constant Ulysse Anchor escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a tenth of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them in a bi-stable state.

This complex structure, made entirely of silicium thanks to the DRIE deep etching technique, exploits the physical capacity of blade springs to become distorted along the left-right axis while remaining perfectly rigid along the up-down axis, thus reproducing the kinetic functions of a pivot. The impulse that issues from each alternation of the balance wheel thus transmits its energy to the blades, which snap from one stable state to the other, very much like a snap hair-clip. The pallet arms thus pivot backwards and forwards about a pallet staff that is purely virtual, without generating any frictional forces.

But the best is yet to come: the redesigned pallet fork now possesses an integral resetting face. As the tooth of the escape wheel slides along this surface as far as the banking face, it will bring the pallet fork back every time to within just 3° of the center line – that is, the imaginary straight line between the center of the balance wheel and the center of the escape wheel which defines the system’s equilibrium limit. Thus the effort that the balance wheel has to exert to push the pallet fork as far as its tipping point is less than the effort that is restored to it immediately afterwards by the bending of the blade springs. In this way, this positive energy balance is able to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel at a constant rate. In fact, this interplay of forces is not influenced by the motor torque injected into the escape wheel, which only starts to move once the pallet fork has switched over.

In a final touch of artistry, this astonishing construction is housed in a 60-seconds tourbillon, whose cage comprises 35 components but weighs no more than 0.4 grams. With its constant amplitude, irrespective of how much the two series-mounted spring barrels are wound, this exceptional oscillating mechanism is a major step forward in the field of chronometric accuracy. Visible through a large opening in the dial at 6 o’clock, it is encircled by the indication of its power reserve of at least 7 days on a 140° arc.

This caliber UN-178 is housed in a rose gold or white gold case in the Classico collection. A setting with traditional lines enhanced with a white Grand Feu enamel dial created by the unrivaled expertise of Donzé Cadrans, a dial-making specialist company owned by Ulysse Nardin. Available in two limited editions of 18 pieces each, the Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon will be in the retailers’ display windows from May.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark

Just in time for World Oceans Day, Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark has released its latest Diver dedicated to the brand’s menacing mascot, the shark.

Although the marine mammal has inspired the company’s campaigns and taken center stage on the dials of its NSFW erotic watches, the Swiss watchmaker’s latest model puts a trio of 3-D Lemon Sharks on the back of the case. Mimicking the species’ distinctive yellow-hued camouflage tint, the black watch is marked with gray indices and touches of yellow on the bezel, dial, seconds hand, crown and band, as well as on the “Lemon Shark” branding just above 6 o’clock.
We had the opportunity to try on the Lemon Shark at a press event in Key Largo, Florida and the major takeaway is that, at 42 mm, this Diver is surprisingly suited to many wrists: It didn’t overpower those used to wearing smaller sizes and it had enough presence to satisfy one who favors a hefty 45 mm Panerai. Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark introduced the size in its Diver collection in 2018 as a welcome alternative in a genre known for bulkier cases. Thanks to this timepiece’s concave bezel and dome-shaped sapphire crystal, it wears smaller than you might imagine but is, nevertheless, designed for high-impact.

Just like its namesake, it’s powerful but subtle. “For those of us that handle them, one of the things you have to be careful of is that, while most sharks are fairly stocky, lemon sharks can fold in half,” says Michael Heithaus, the dean of the College of Arts, Sciences and Education at Florida International University. “That combined with the fact that they are a little bit testy, these are the sharks that I’m most wary to be around… They will look at you and say, ‘You’re messing with me. I’m going to ruin your day.’ They can be aggressive but if you’re out diving and see them, they are totally chill.”

A marine ecologist and scientist specializing in sharks, Heithaus and the FIU Medina Aquarius Program (the world’s only underwater research and education lab) have partnered with Ulysse Nardin in an effort to better understand and protect the ocean’s ecosystem. They’re joined by another research partner, Ocearch, a data-centric organization built to help scientists collect data from the ocean at an accelerated pace. The seas have long been a focal point for the watchmaker, which traces its roots back to 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland, where it established its name as a marine-chronometer expert providing highly accurate instruments to commercial ships and international navy fleets. Building on that heritage, Ulysse Nardin now focuses on giving back to the ocean instead of conquering it. It has centered its endeavors around Ocearch, which considers itself a groundbreaking company in its efforts to “Google-ize” the approach to ocean research, as its aptly named founder and CEO, Chris Fischer, puts it. The idea is to cut out the bureaucracy of academic research by pooling together scientists and their data for a more collaborative, speedy approach to learning that bypasses time spent trying to nail down tedious grants and fundraising.
“When you look at partners like UN, they have this ancient history with marine chronometers, but they are also a bit of a disruptor in terms of their design,” says Fischer. “They came in and found us and we were just thrilled to partner with them because of the disposition of the company.”

In keeping with its do-good seafaring ethos and commitment to ocean conservation, Ulysse Nardin paired the Lemon Shark with a fabric velcro strap made entirely from recycled fishing nets collected in Marseille, France. Inside is all the meat and jaws that power the luxury timepiece in the 42-hour power reserve Caliber UN-816 movement, including a silicium escapement—an efficient material widely adopted by the industry, but pioneered by Ulysse Nardin.

Water-resistant to 300 meters (984 feet) and limited to just 300 pieces, you will need move fast to capture the, relatively, reasonably priced $7,300 Lemon Shark.
In honor of World Ocean Day and celebrating its community of friends and partner including world-renown shark experts, divers, universities, and non-profits, Ulysse Nardin unveils a stunning, shark-themed limited edition of the DIVER 42 mm
Ulysse Nardin, the Swiss watchmaker, has pledged its efforts in an environmental commitment that follows the United Nations guidelines and their 17 sustainable development goals (SDG), set to be met by 2030. Our aim is to reduce marine pollution by integrating materials culled from the ocean whenever possible into our new products. While we recycle discarded fishing nets into watch bands, we are also acquiring greater oceanographic knowledge with our focus being mainly on sharks. With their status as the apex predators of the sea and a largely misunderstood species of marine life, sharks are the avatars and cherished emblems of Ulysse Nardin.

In keeping with the Swiss watch manufacturer’s devotion to shark conservation around the world, Ulysse Nardin has launched the DIVER Lemon Shark, a contemporary and functional model designed specifically for the deep. The 42 mm model is the newborn in the Diver collection and features a black dial with a yellow lemon shark ‘signature’, a stamp of three lemon sharks on the back and a black R-STRAP made from recycled fishing nets. The touches of yellow on the bezel, dial, crown and band pay homage to the lemon shark, recalling the color of its skin and its connection to the ocean floor. It is a technical marvel fitted with the Caliber UN-816 movement; the concave bezel with a domed sapphire glass creates a sleek look designed for those who consider exploring the depths of the ocean a personal challenge.
The DIVER Lemon Shark works thanks to revolutionary silicium technology, pioneered by Ulysse Nardin at its headquarters in Le Locle, Switzerland. Superluminova indexes in ‘shark gray’ adorn the dial and a yellow 0 marks the 12 o’clock position on the bezel. The lemon yellow second hand, second markers and discreet stitching on the R-STRAP distinguish this model from all others, making it a unique and coveted timepiece that pays homage to these magnificent animals. The DIVER Lemon Shark is available in a limited series of just 300 pieces.

To celebrate the launch of the DIVER Lemon Shark on World Ocean Day, Ulysse Nardin has teamed up with world-renown shark experts dedicated to the study of marine life and ocean conservation by bringing together two outstanding organizations: OCEARCH and the FIU Medina Aquarius Program in the Florida International University Institute of Environment.
Of all the creatures in the world’s oceans, sharks may be the most misunderstood by humankind. Often feared and reviled as vicious maneaters, the vast majority of shark species are not aggressive towards humans but form a vital role in ocean ecosystems as apex predators. The lemon shark is a perfect example of this. Found mainly off the coast of Florida, lemon sharks use their yellow coloration to blend in with the sea floor and ambush their preferred diet of fish and crustaceans. Despite posing no threat to humans, the lemon shark is currently listed as near threatened in its natural habitat due to human activity. Ulysse Nardin, with its extensive aquatic ties, has long been a supporter of ocean conservation, and for its latest release the brand has joined forces with Florida International University and environmental nonprofit OCEARCH to bring awareness to these creatures. The new limited edition Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark is designed to commemorate this collaborative effort, and brings a clean and aggressive new edge to the brand’s entry-level modernist diver line.
While mechanically unspectacular, the limited-edition Ulysse Nardin Diver Lemon Shark offers an aggressive contemporary look that drastically changes the feel of the base Diver line while drawing attention to the crucial preservation of ocean wildlife.

Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton and Blast Hourstriker

When it comes to Ulysse Nardin, it’s hard not also to think about innovative, avant-garde design. With a steady focus on the use of uncommon materials, novel mechanics, and artistic thinking, the brand in its modern history has made a name for itself with collections like the Freak, and so many individual watches like the Marine Mega Yacht and suggestive Classic Voyeur Minute Repeater, among so many others. This is not to say the brand doesn’t also tread in classic watch design from time to time, which they certainly do. In fact, much of the Marine, Diver, and even aptly named Classico collections do work in-step with very traditional styles and materials. But for these classic looks, it is undoubtedly Ulysse Nardin’s experimental work that catches the eyes of most luxury-inclined consumers.

Now, the brand is unveiling its latest experimental work in the industry, with three new timepieces that hold inventive thinking centrally from design to execution. Of these, we have the new table clock UFO, which started with a question posed by Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin, “What [would] a marine chronometer designed in 2196 be like?” After this, we come to the brand’s two wristwatch novelties, the first being the Blast Hourstriker which follows up on the original Blast unveiled by the brand last summer, and brings the brand’s signature sonorous complication to the unorthodox construction. And lastly, the brand is unveiling the new Diver X Skeleton, a new hybrid watch of the Diver X and Skeleton X design first unveiled in 2019, and in effect, bringing an uncommon skeletonized look to a 200-meter water resistant timepiece.
Turning first to the very uncommon UFO, we come to an incredibly complex table clock displaying three independent time-zones and carrying a full year’s worth of power reserve via six manually wound barrels. The skeletonized aluminum creation is encapsulated via a 3mm-thick ovoid blown glass bell created by Romain Montero, a 26-year-old, Swiss-based artisan glassblower. Its total size from aluminum base to rounded glass top measures 263mm tall (or about 10 in.) and 159mm in diameter (6.25 in.). If the watch looks like something produced by MB&F rather than Ulysse Nardin, that’s because the creation was developed in close collaboration with renowned clockmaker Maison L’Epée, a brand which has been manufacturing traditional clocks since 1839 and is best known for their work with MB&F and bringing CEO Max Busser’s ideas to mechanical life.
While dubbed the “UFO,” the piece of horological art takes its inspiration from rethinking marine chronometers rather than something interstellar. “Whereas [traditional] marine chronometers were housed in wooden boxes and set on gimbles to counteract the effect of the ship’s constant sway, [the UFO] reverses this … [making] waves when it is nudged gently.” In technical terms, the almost-16 lb. (7.2kg) creation rests upon a rounded bottom, swinging up to 60° from its axis without losing balance, with the tungsten weighted center of mass such that the clock avoids swinging too fast or tipping, and by extension, damaging the clock or affecting its timekeeping abilities.
Now turning to the first of the brand’s creations for the wrist, we find the Blast Hourstriker, which as mentioned follows up on the original 2020 Blast, a time-only avant-garde design. The obvious update for the model is in its use of Ulysse Nardin’s signature “Hourstriker” complication which we last saw in 2019 with the Hourstriker Phantom. The complication notably differs from a traditional minute repeater in that it only chimes hours and half hours, rather than smaller increments of time.Like the original Blast, the Hourstriker uses a large rose-gold 5N and black DLC titanium case, measuring 45mm by 16mm, complete with sharp faceting, meticulously brushed finished edges, and an overall very sporty appeal for a 30m water resistant watch. On its dial, the skeletonized look of the alternating rose gold, DLC, and metal components provide a particularly mechanical aesthetic, the style integrated with a six o’clock flying tourbillon and small on/off indicator for the Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker complication.
Speaking more to the chiming mechanism, Ulysse Nardin developed the UN-621 caliber specifically for the timepiece, with it serving as the brand’s first in-house automatic striking manufacture movement to be powered by a flying tourbillon. Like previous Hourstrikers, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Hourstriker features a Devialet amplification system developed by a team of engineers from Ulysse Nardin and the namesake French audio technology company Devialet. The system is essentially a super-thin metal membrane which amplifies the acoustic waves from the watch gong of the Hourstriker which, when combined with a torsion lever, “acts as the membrane of an electromagnetic enclosure, or more precisely, as the membrane of a phonograph head, the ancestor of the vinyl record deck.” In practical terms, it allows the sound to be louder, clearer, and more pleasant to the ear while using less overall power from the mechanical reserve.
The final release as part of Ulysse Nardin’s experimental group of 2021 novelties is the new Diver X Skeleton, an innovative hybrid watch celebrating the brand’s 175th birthday, being first founded in 1846, and limited to 175 editions.

At its core, the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton is, as its name indicates, a skeletonized dive watch, living within a supremely uncommon category of watch both for the technical difficulty of producing a highly water resistant and durable sapphire-heavy timepiece, but also for the practical viability and consumer interest in a watch that reduces visibility on a category of watch renowned for just that. Practical and technical concerns aside, the model is a unique sporty wearer, experimenting with the very centerpiece of what it means for a watch to be a diver.

The large timepiece measures 44mm by 15.5mm, cased with large sapphire windows on its front and back, as well as blue PVD Carbonium, a super durable and lightweight carbon-based material which the brand originally used on its FREAK X. As a nod towards the growing awareness of the carbon impact watches and the larger fashion world are having, Ulysse Nardin mentioned Carbonium’s 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon-based materials, a historically energy-intensive material to create and shape.
On the dial of the watch, transparency reins with the redesigned UN-371 movement on display and the model’s namesake blue “X” serving as a center point for the watch’s large lume-filled hands, each pointing to matching indices on the outer edge of the plane. Like previous X-series watches by the brand, the Diver X Skeleton features a large barrel towards the 12 o’clock position, which in combination with the movement’s slowed 21,600 vph frequency helps provide the model with a higher 96-hour or 4-day power reserve.

Altogether, the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton presents a seamless hybrid of design schemes produced by Ulysse Nardin in recent years, bringing various elements from across the brand’s collection into a well-executed timepiece. In this regard, and with a grain of salt for its viability as a practical dive watch, the watch effectively meets its purpose as a hardy commemorative timepiece to the innovative, marine-focused legacy of the Ulysse Nardin brand.