Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 32nd Edition

The California Mille, a 1,000-mile driving tour through the hills of Central and Northern California, celebrated its 32nd running April 23rd to April 27th. Sponsored by Chopard, the event featured cars designed prior to the final running of Italy’s original Mille Miglia road race in 1957. “Like fine watches, fine cars are meant to be used, and when it comes to driving there’s no better place to do that than the breathtaking byways we select each year for the California Mille,” said Hagerty CEO McKeel Hagerty. “What really sets this annual tradition apart, though, is sharing it with other enthusiasts. We are always so grateful for the time we get to spend with people who get just as fired up about great cars and lovely roads as we do.”

For Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the link between luxury watches and cars is entirely natural: “Lovers of fine cars often have a great weakness for precious timepieces and vice versa. Extreme precision and sporting elegance are important in both these fields.”

Chopard, in addition to creating the commemorative Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 32nd Edition, provided watches for the winners of the Spirit of the Mille Miglia award, the Best Pre-War Car award and the Best Post-War Car award. Limited to 30 examples, the watch exemplifies masculine elegance, mechanical precision, watchmaking performance and racing ergonomics – all dedicated to the beauty of driving.

The California Mille was a carbon neutral event for the second year running, offsetting 74,000 miles driven between participating and support vehicles. Hagerty and the California Mille have also donated $10,000 to the California Fire Foundation for the preservation and maintenance of the beautiful environments we live and drive in. Hagerty is an automotive lifestyle brand committed to saving driving and fueling car culture for future generations. The company is a leading provider of specialty vehicle insurance, expert car valuation data and insights, live and digital car auction services, immersive events and automotive entertainment custom made for the 67 million Americans who self-describe as car enthusiasts. Hagerty also operates in Canada and the UK and is home to Hagerty Drivers Club, a community of more than 750,000 who can’t get enough of cars. As a purpose-driven organization, Hagerty Impact aims to be a catalyst for positive change across the issues that matter most to our teams, our members, the broader automotive community, our shareholders and the planet at large. For more information, please visit or connect with us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.
“Like fine watches, fine cars are meant to be used, and when it comes to driving there’s no better place to do that than the breathtaking byways we select each year for the California Mille,” said Hagerty CEO McKeel Hagerty. “What really sets this annual tradition apart, though, is sharing it with other enthusiasts. We are always so grateful for the time we get to spend with people who get just as fired up about great cars and lovely roads as we do.”

For Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the link between luxury watches and cars is entirely natural: “Lovers of fine cars often have a great weakness for precious timepieces and vice versa. Extreme precision and sporting elegance are important in both these fields.”

Chopard, in addition to creating the commemorative Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Chrono California Mille 32nd Edition, provided watches for the winners of the Spirit of the Mille Miglia award, the Best Pre-War Car award and the Best Post-War Car award. Limited to 30 examples, the watch exemplifies masculine elegance, mechanical precision, watchmaking performance and racing ergonomics – all dedicated to the beauty of driving.

The California Mille was a carbon neutral event for the second year running, offsetting 74,000 miles driven between participating and support vehicles. Hagerty and the California Mille have also donated $10,000 to the California Fire Foundation for the preservation and maintenance of the beautiful environments we live and drive in.

New Chopard Happy Sport

With almost 200 years of experience creating Swiss-made watches, Chopard is one of the world’s oldest and best-known luxury watch and jewelry creators.

Including style, sophistication, and functionality beyond compare, this high-end retailer is for people who want to make an elegant statement.

Although an old business, Chopard continues to stay up-to-date with their designs and their image. This is obvious from their 2 million followers on Instagram and almost 1.2 million on Facebook. To get a good idea of the image they created, they have aligned with Julia Roberts for a couple of their jewelry lines. The brand has also been covered in the media by the likes of Forbes, GQ, WWD, and Vanity Fair.

My Chopard review will take a deep look into this luxury brand to see if they are worth your money before you buy. I’ll embark on this journey by checking out their products, promotions, customer testimonials, and more.
By the age of 24 years old, Swiss-born Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the son of a farmer, was already one of the best watchmakers in the world.

He not only became skilled with Swiss watchmaking but he added innovations that gave his pieces precision and reliability that were rarely seen in watches of that day.

His skill and elegance of design made him world-renown earning him commissions with Tzar Nicholas II of Russia and the Swiss Railroad Company.

After a lifetime of making Swiss-made watches, in 1915 his son Paul-Louis Chopard took over the family business. Keeping the same quality, he moved the company’s headquarters to the economic center of Geneva.

In 1943, the third generation in the form of Paul-Andre took over the business. With no sons interested in the business, he considered selling Chopard.

Along came German goldsmith and watchmaker Karl Scheufele III who was looking to acquire a Swiss manufacturer so that they wouldn’t have to rely on outside sources for their watches’ movement. Keeping the Chopard family artistry, Scheufele and his wife Karin started designing the aesthetics for the watches. Eventually, their family and descendants joined the business in various respects, usually involving themselves directly in the stylish designs.

The company then moved into jewelry and accessories, all of which are high-quality and make a statement.

Before taking a look into some of this luxury brand’s supreme products, my Chopard review will provide a bird’s eye view of what exactly makes this company so enduring. Over centuries, Chopard went from solely making exceptional watches to creating stunning jewelry, natural perfumes, and stylish sunglasses. In my Chopard review I’ll take a look at a few outstanding products from this best-selling brand. A redux of the popular 80s watch style, the St. Moritz, the Chopard Alpine Eagle XI Chrono is a blend of elegance and functionality – a luxury sports watch.

Exquisitely designed to evoke the Alps and the majestic eagle, this 18K rose gold case and dials, with a deep-black face, is a statement of elegance.

As an homage to the St. Moritz, this is the only of the Chopard watches in their men’s Alpine Eagle collection with a black calf-skin wristband, instead of metal.

The look makes it a luxury watch and the chronograph functions make it a sports watch. Not only does it have a timer, but it also has a flyback feature for multi-lap times. The titanium gives it strength and durability, as does the glare-proof, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal front glass. Not only that, but this watch is also water-resistant up to 100m.

This premium product comes in wrist sizes from 1-9. All this elegance and functionality should be enough, but I must mention in this Chopard review that this watch is also automatic, meaning that it self-winds and needs no battery. Designed by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s “Big-Hearted Woman,” the Happy Hearts collection celebrates all women with big love to give.

The design of the Happy Hearts Flowers ring is exquisite. Mounted on, and outlined in, 18K ethical rose gold, it has a 0.05 carat diamond in the center.

The sparkly centerpiece is surrounded by a small metal ring, which in turn is amid a ring of hearts. The overall effect is of a flower with the hearts as the petals and the diamond as the pistil. The core of each heart is mother-of-pearl to add depth and brightness. This stunning, feminine ring comes in sizes 4.5 to 9.5. You won’t feel blue wearing the Chopard Ice Cube sunglasses, but you will feel pretty cool.

The large, square, electric blue front piece frame, gradient smoke lenses, and titanium temples come together to give these women’s sunglasses style and durability. But the best part of these glasses is that they are made from mainly biological materials. A great companion to the Alpine Eagle XI Chrono, Chopard Men’s Alpine Eagle sunglasses, make a statement in all black, with polished metal accents.

Like the Ice Cube sunglasses, the frames and lenses are made with biological materials. The black frames and smoke lenses are sleek and go with everything. Chopard jewelry is something that any woman would love for both its beauty and subtle statements. This makes them ideal for men who want an unforgettable, stunning, and thoughtful piece to give their special someone or beloved family member. No Chopard review would be complete without hearing from their customers. To start, the brand’s range of sunglasses is popular for both their style and their functionality.

Finding any flattering sunglasses can be difficult for some depending on the shape of their faces. Looking bug-eyed is a big problem for those of us with thin faces. This isn’t a problem with out featured brand, however, as one review on Trustpilot details:

“I have a hard time finding sunglasses that compliment my face but I found the most beautiful pair by Chopard. They are extremely comfortable and filter the sun incredibly well. They are exceptionally designed and I can wear them with a casual outfit or a fancy dress. I get compliments every time I put them on.”

One of the best Chopard reviews on Ezcontacts, without even mentioning the sun protection, explains why the steep price tag is worth it: “A perfect blend of elegance marked with sophistication and class. You definitely stand out when you wear these in a very distinct way. Worth every penny spent for the looks and distinction it offers.”

I think that customer’s tale of one of their watches would agree about the elegance and value of the brand. They bought the Chopard Superfast Sports Watch through and said that: “I just purchased a dream sports car. I wanted a watch with a motor sports theme.”

“I was concerned about its massive size because my wrist is only 6-3/4, but it’s one of the most comfortable watches I own. I rotate it with a Rolex, Panerai, Glashutte Senator among others. I keep coming back to this watch. Can’t take my eyes off of it which is a problem when driving a fast sports car. Haha”

I agree. Staying on the road should take priority over checking out your stunning watch, but I don’t blame you. All Chopard watches are stylish and eye-catching, especially the Chopard Alpine Eagle Xl Chrono. Its rose gold and titanium are the height of sporty luxury.

This brand’s quality is found across the board from their Swiss-made watches to their high-end glasses to their perfumes. Like the Ice Cube, this brand’s perfumes are made with natural ingredients. This Chopard review from a customer on the Nordstrom website shows why Chopard is considered a great luxury brand. They say:

“This is high quality! It’s beautiful from first spray through dry down. Not cloying, no headache! Not irritating to my skin. The natural ingredients makes a difference. It’s so beautiful and warm. Love it! Highly recommend!”

The only complaint from a customer on the Better Business Bureau shows how great Chopard’s customer service really is. This was their response to the complaint:

“A new pair of sunglasses will be sent in the next couple of days as a courtesy. Please note that the sunglasses were not purchased from a Chopard authorized retailer. Chopard isn’t directly liable for the product but is however granting this replacement in order to continue ensuring perfect customer service to all Chopard owners.”

Chopard Happy Sport replica

At MONOCHROME, we tend to sparingly use the word “icon” as it has become a marketing tool rather than a proper definition of the status of a model. There are, however, true icons of watchmaking, timepieces that are known far beyond the small circle of seasoned collectors. And most are, sadly maybe, watches created first for men. When it comes to feminine watches, fewer models have gained cult status, but the Chopard Happy Sport and its dancing diamonds is surely one of them. Created in 1993, its design has evolved years after years but in 2021, the brand introduces a revamped collection, which includes the Chopard Happy Sport “The First,” limited-edition re-releases of the very first watch presented.
The Happy Sport is the brainchild of Caroline Scheufele – now Co-President and Artistic Director of the brand – who was driven by the idea of creating a versatile watch, formal yet casual, precious yet slightly sporty. A watch that you “could wear all day long; at the gym, in the office or for a dinner in town.” she said. And behind this watch, in addition to its overall casual attire, was a striking concept, the dancing diamonds launched by Caroline’s parents – “these diamonds are happier when they are free,” as her mother exclaimed in 1976 when she initially laid eyes on the first prototype.
Yet, instead of making freely moving diamonds dance around the watch as was the case with Chopard Happy Diamonds timepieces, Caroline Scheufele decided to place them between two sapphire crystals above the dial. The result of this idea came to life in 1993, with the first Chopard Happy Sport, a watch mixing steel and diamonds, a soft, comfortable pebble-link bracelet, set with cabochon-cut sapphires on the lugs and on the crown, echoing the blued hands, and of course, a white dial enhanced by seven diamonds “dancing” above it.
If Chopard will also launch a redesigned collection for the Happy Sport, a watch that will show modernized elements yet still totally in line with the DNA of the range, there’s also and mostly this limited edition model to surface, a watch that is a direct descendant of the original 1993 watch, yet of course with contemporary touches all around. The case is clearly echoing the design of the initial model, which has been designed according to the golden ratio, a mathematical balance used to define the proportions of the new models in the collection. By using the golden ratio in direct relation to the diameter of the movement designed for Chopard ladies’ watch collections, the case of the Happy Sport has been redesigned in a 33 mm diameter, particularly well suited to the female wrist.
The shape of the case is also highly familiar, with its polished surfaces and 4 cabochon-cut sapphires on the lugs, as well as an additional one found on the faceted crown. However, this 33mm case, with a reasonable height of 10.84mm (knowing the extra layer required for the diamonds), is now made of Lucent Steel A223, a steel alloy that combines anti-allergenic virtues with the brightness and sturdiness of ordinary steel. It is also 70% made from recycled metals, following Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury (think about fairmined gold). As for the dial, the Chopard Happy Sport The First brings back the understated silver-toned dial punctuated by blue Roman hour markers, minute track and hands, as a visual balance with the blue cabochons. There are two versions of “The First” launched, one being full steel with a silver-white dial, the other featuring a diamond-set bezel and a mother-of-pearl dial.
Of course, the most emblematic element of the Chopard Happy Sport, its dancing diamonds, are still present. Still enclosed between two layers of sapphire crystal, 7 free-moving modules in steel with a brilliant-cut diamond are making the choreography this model is known for.

To complement this slightly vintage look, the Chopard Happy Sport The First is bringing back the stainless steel pebble-link bracelet that was part of the 1993 model. Supple and smooth, it offers this watch versatility with enough robustness, yet the shine of a fully polished surface. Under the sapphire caseback is an in-house automatic movement, the calibre Chopard 09.01-C. Designed for feminine collections, it is entirely designed, developed and produced by the brand. Beating at 3,5Hz, this self-winding mechanism can store up to 42 hours of power reserve. It is finished with Geneva stripes.

Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF

Chopard just launched a new titanium Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF that features a “pitch black” colored dial and some rather attractive orange accents.

The new high-frequency timepiece belongs to the wider Alpine Eagle family – Chopard’s 2019 answer to the integrated bracelet sport watch trend – and maintains most of the design cues of its 41mm “Lucent” steel predecessor. As mentioned, dial-wise, the Cadence 8HF does have a few notable cosmetic differences, but the main point of departure here is the titanium casing and bracelet as well as the technically advanced in-house high-frequency movement. Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF released a limited version of this high-frequency watch back in 2021, which was also produced in titanium. The specs remain pretty much identical: 41mm in diameter, 9.75 mm thick, satin-brushed case and bezel with eight screws, a tapered satin-brushed bracelet with polished central caps, sapphire crystal exhibition case-back printed with “Cadence 8HF,” the Roman numerals at 12 o’clock and the ever notorious 4.30 date window.

The key update to this 2023 version is the new black colored dial, which still features the sunburst pattern (intended to be reminiscent of an eagle’s iris) and now also includes an orange arrow-type seconds hand with eagle’s feather counterweight, an orange “high-frequency” arrow symbol and matching orange railway-track minutes circle. Sounds like a lot of orange, but as you can see above they are small accents that balance out the black dial rather nicely.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF Calibre 01.12-C beats at the frequency of 8 Hertz, meaning twice as fast as a standard automatic movement. This is a technical detail that is commonly understood as a means to improve precision and stability. The logic goes like this: The faster the movement beats, the less effect each impact has on the average rate. This high frequency means high speed, thus implying rapid recovery of the isochronous rate.

Chopard has been working on chronometer-certified high-frequency movement since 2012, namely in its L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collections. The Calibre 01.12-C however, will remain exclusively for the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF models. This is a fun addition to the Alpine Eagle family. While I’m more of a yellow-gold Alpine Eagle gal, I was still drawn in by the aesthetics of this watch. (Hey, I’m trying to be more open-minded about my watch identity these days.) The stark contrast of the black and orange against the dark titanium gives the Cadence 8HF a super sporty feel – almost like a Porsche Design watch or a kooky driving watch from the ’80s. I think I’ll have to get my hands on this one at the show to decide whether it’s really for me. Maybe this is the beginning of my new sporty identity. Stay tuned!

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Alongside the new Chopard L.U.C. 1860 launched at Watches and Wonders 2023, Chopard is introducing a new chronograph to the L.U.C. lineup — the L.U.C. 1963 Heritage Chronograph. As the name suggests, this is a throwback model with plenty of vintage cues, albeit with the haute horlogerie execution you’d expect from any model in Chopard’s L.U.C. lineup. Measuring in at 42mm, this new flyback chronograph is crafted from Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel, a material made from 80% recycled materials that’s differentiated from standard 316L stainless steel by both its increased brilliance and luminosity as well as increased dermo-compatibility. A nice touch for those with sensitivities to stainless-steel cases. The case shape is largely subdued and traditional in appearance, with two mushroom-shaped pushers and a For the 1963 Heritage Chronograph, Chopard opted for what they call an English-green dial. The dial features a sunburst pattern that radiates outwards from the L.U.Chopard logo at 12 o’clock. Chopard then contrasts the sunburst pattern with snailed concentric chronograph registers. The effect is dynamic and, frankly, gorgeous. For the 1963 Heritage Chronograph, Chopard leaned into the British racing heritage of the colorway, opting for dual Arabic numerals graduated from 05-60 in lieu of hour designations. Contrasting against the green dial are rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hour and minutes hands, along with a rhodium-plated sweep-seconds chronograph hand. What you won’t find on the dial, however, is a date aperture. Chopard decided to keep things clean and simple and it’s a move that’s paid off, as it’s hard to imagine disrupting such a clean dial.n oversized crown. This is a nice approach, as the case doesn’t distract attention from the dial, and, with Chopard, the dial is almost always the conversation starter.
The 1963 Heritage Chronograph features Chopard’s chronometer-certified in-house flyback chronograph movement, L.U.C. 03.07-L. This hand-winding movement features a column wheel, vertical coupling clutch, and flyback chronograph complication. Not surprisingly, movement receives all the bells and whistles when it comes to finishing, including rhodium-plated bridges, yokes, levers, and column wheel against a rose-gilt backdrop. You’ll also find circular graining on the base, straight-graining on the chronograph components, and Côtes de Genève finishing on the nickel silver bridges. Chopard ensures the movement is as functional as it is beautiful with COSC chronometer certification and an ample 60-hour power reserve. As another point of external validation, the Chopard 1963 Heritage Chronograph receives the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

The Mille Miglia is still around. I know it seems like Chopard is all L.U.C. and Alpine Eagle these days, but I promise the Mille Miglia—which commemorates the legendary Italian road race of the same name—is very much alive and well. Every year, in fact, Chopard has released a race edition with an external tachymeter bezel (here’s the one from last year), and the Classic edition has also had its fair share of LEs. But after years of special editions, the Chopard Mille Miglia collection was due for a remodel, and that’s just what it got for Watches and Wonders 2023. Now in a smaller case with the brand’s proprietary Lucent Steel, including a two-tone version with rose gold, the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is more appealing than ever.
The biggest updates are to the case, which sees the Mille Miglia sized down from 42mm to 40.5mm, in line with current trends and I’m sure welcome by almost all. The bezel and crystal have also been updated: A “glass-box” sapphire crystal replaces the flat crystal for a more vintage vibe, while a thinner polished bezel gives the dial some breathing room. Although the case size has been reduced 1.5mm, some of that will be made up by thinning the bezel, which makes the dial, and therefore the watch, appear larger. On account of the new domed crystal, the case has gone from 12.67mm-thick to 12.88mm-thick; while this isn’t a huge leap, it will be more noticeable since the case diameter was also reduced. On balance, all these dimension shifts will likely only result in a slightly different wrist presence, which will be aided by lugs that feature a more significant curve. While the three color dials are fitted on perforated leather straps mimicking leather driving gloves, the black dial has a rubber strap modeled on the tread of 1960s Dunlop racing tires, which is cool; all four come with a redesigned pin buckle closure.
Chopard has also upgraded the cases to its proprietary Lucent Steel. This includes the brake-pedal textured pushers, the knurled steering wheel crown, and the welded lugs. I know “Lucent Steel” sounds like some gimmick akin to Blue Steel vs. Magnum, but the difference is real, and I’ll quote our own review of the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono from 2020 to help you understand: Lucent Steel is an ethical, sustainable, double-forged steel alloy that took the brand four years to develop. You can read more in our article debuting the Alpine Eagle collection. The two-tone variant also features Lucent Steel, with ethically sourced 18k rose gold for the bezel, crown, and pushers.
The new Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is available in four variants: Verde Chiaro (light green), Rosso Amarena (cherry red), Nero Corsa (racing black), and Grigio-Blue (gray-blue). Now that you know Italian, I can tell you that the red, green, and grey-blue dials all have circular satin-brushed finishing while the black dial features what the brand refers to as an engine-turned finish and what I refer to as perlage (though I agree with the brand that it reminds one of vintage metal dashboards). The entire idea of the different color dials is to establish a deeper connection to racing. Inspired though they may be by race cars, Chopard doesn’t go into details about which cars, which would have added a bit of depth to the watch’s story. That said, I will admit that some race cars are green and some are red and some are black and I’m sure some are even gray-blue. The overall layout and style of the new model is almost identical to the previous generation, with two chronograph registers, a running seconds at 3 o’clock, and a color-matched date wheel at 4:30 (if it weren’t color matched, I’d rant for an extra paragraph). One change is the shift from a simple white line around the registers to a thick border scale. Further, the registers no longer indicate their respective units. While I can’t confirm, I believe the brand has also slimmed down the hour numerals, which are filled with the Super-LumiNova also seen on the sword hands. For a pop of color, all four dials feature the red “1000 Miglia” logo and a matching tip on the chronograph seconds hand. Chopard isn’t specific about which movement is in the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, but we know the previous models had an ETA 2894-2 modular automatic chronograph movement. Other than some striping on the rotor and the brand’s name in gold, this movement appears to be no more embellished than other high-grade ETAs, with some perlage on the bridges and blued screws. The ETA 2894-2 affords 42 hours of power at 28,800 vph, and the brand indicates it is COSC-certified, keeping time at -4/+6 seconds per day.
One of the biggest challenges for brands that link themselves and specific models to anything external to watches is finding a balance between telegraphing that link and alienating people who don’t care about that link. To be sure, sometimes when dealing with very specific externalities, brands often just throw this consideration out the window (like the TAG Heuer’s Mario Kart watches). When dealing with broader links, brands can achieve a balance, as Chopard has with the new Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 Stainless Steel

If you want to see what over 40 years of experience looks like, you just need to take a look at the Chopard Alpine Eagle. After designing Chopard’s first sports watch in 1980 at the age of 22, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was convinced to revisit the St Moritz with fresh eyes for a modern audience. The Alpine Eagle was born in 2019, carrying across the integrated bracelet, eight bezel screws, and the Roman numerals from some of the later references, in addition to the blazing swirl that is the dial. The intensely gouged dial is based on an eagle’s iris, and this latest reference in the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS ties itself into the Alps even deeper.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS has a lot of new features, but we’ll start with the colour. Called ‘Monte Rosa Pink’, the hue of rose gold is inspired by the second-tallest mountain range of the Alps of the same name. Despite Chopard’s inspiration, the Monte Rose massif actually got its name from a mistranslation of a local dialect’s word for ‘glacier’ rather than any pink colouration. Semantics aside, the dial is gorgeous. The depth of texture never gets old, and enriches your viewing experience with every glance. The applied hour markers and hands are all made from white gold for a lustrous contrast, and loaded up with X1 Super-LumiNova that’s 60% brighter than standard and supposedly much longer-lasting.
If you feel that the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS’ dial stands out more than usual, it’s also due to a slimming of the bezel and case which allows for the dial to be proportionately wider. That makes room for as much of the iris design as possible, while also featuring a large small seconds subdial with circular guilloché. The case isn’t just special for its modified proportions however, as it is also one of Chopard’s thinnest watches. At a total thickness of 8mm, the 41mm diameter case is supremely comfortable on-wrist with enough curvature to not feel like a dinner plate, as some ultra-thin watches can. It’s made from a type of stainless steel that Chopard call Lucent Steel A223, where up to 85% recycled steel is mixed with certain additives and heated to a higher temperature for 50% extra scratch resistance, and a purer lustre. If you enjoy taking your luxury watches swimming, you can also do that here with 100m of water resistance.
Powering the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is the Chopard Manufacture L.U.C 96.40-L. It may not have a catchy name, but at 3.3mm thick it’s one of their most refined calibres to date. With a 22k yellow gold micro-rotor visible from the sapphire caseback, you can also pour over the wonderful finishing standards which earned this movement a Geneva Seal hallmark of quality. This is the second of Chopard’s movements to earn such a lofty accreditation, with the first belonging to the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. The movement is also a COSC-certified chronometer with 65 hours of power reserve thanks to stacked twin barrels, and beats at a smooth 4Hz.


Chopard is a company that began as a watchmaker, became famous as a jeweler, and then, in 1996, became famous again as a watchmaker. The company was founded in 1860; the Happy Diamonds designs debuted in 1976; and in 1996, Chopard surprised fine watchmaking enthusiasts with the introduction of its first L.U.C. movement, the caliber 1.96, from a design by none other than Michel Parmigiani. Like many enthusiasts I was first introduced to L.U.C. (the initials are those of Chopard’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard) by Walt Odets’ Timezone article from 2002, which praised the movement as “perhaps the finest automatic movement being made in Switzerland today.” In the years since then the L.U.C. family of watches has gradually expanded, and the complexity of the L.U.C. offerings has increased. This year marks an important milestone for Chopard: the release of its very first, all in-house, perpetual calendar chronograph, the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono, a 20-piece limited edition.
The Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono has as its base a movement that is only two years old: the Chopard L.U.C. 03.07-L, which was introduced in the spring of 2014 in Chopard’s 1963 Chronograph. This is a pretty high grade movement, as you’d expect from the L.U.C. line – a contemporary vertical clutch, column-wheel, hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, 5.62 mm x 28.8 mm, with a variable inertia balance (Chopard’s own design) with a 60-hour power reserve, running in 42 jewels, adjusted to five positions. There’s a moonphase display accurate to one day’s error every 122 years. The movement carries the Geneva Hallmark and it’s COSC certified as a chronometer, so it pretty much ticks all the enthusiast boxes.
The addition of Chopard’s perpetual calendar works (which are, as is almost always the case, cadrature, or under-the-dial-works, and therefore not visible) has changed the dimensions of the movement slightly. Perpetual calendar chronograph movement L.U.C. 03.10-L is 33 mm x 8.32 mm – for comparison, Patek Philippe’s hand-wound, non-flyback, perpetual calendar chronograph movement, CH 29-535 PS Q, is 32 mm x 7 mm with a 55-hour minimum guaranteed power reserve, as seen in the reference 5270.

The increase in movement size has meant a slight increase in the size of the Chopard Perpetual Chrono over the 1963 Chronograph – the latter clocks in at 42 mm x 11.5 mm, while the new Perpetual Chrono is 45 mm x 15.06 mm. Again, just for the sake of comparison, the Patek 5270 is 41 mm in diameter; A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual, perhaps a closer match to the Chopard Perpetual Chrono (both are large date, perpetual calendar, flyback, hand-wound chronographs), is 41 mm x 13.5 mm. What the Chopard brings to the table, in addition to what it offers technically, is a different, more extroverted design language than either Patek or Lange, and a pretty interesting price point. The Chopard L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono at launch is priced at $85,000, which is significantly less than any of its comparable competition.
Chopard caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L is, like its chrono-only predecessor, a COSC-certified chronometer (it would be interesting to see how many chronometer-certified perpetual calendar watches are in existence or have ever been made – there can’t be many). It also carries the recently updated Geneva Hallmark; the latter was formerly administered by the Geneva School of Watchmaking but since 2012, it’s been under the auspices of Timelab, and includes functional, decorative, and casing up requirements. It’s much more comprehensive with respect to the entire watch than used to be, and you can read about the new(ish) Geneva Hallmark requirements on their rather surprisingly slick website.
One other point worth mentioning: Chopard sources its gold with the help of Fairmined. A seldom-discussed elephant in the room in watches and jewelry is the enormous environmental impact, and social impact, of gold mining, and Fairmined works with its partners to ensure its gold comes from ethically responsible sources; you can read more about their work right here.

As we said at the top of the story, the launch of their very first perpetual calendar chronograph is a pretty big deal for Chopard, and we’re looking forward to seeing the watch in-the-metal next week in Basel. The perpetual calendar chronograph, especially executed in house, and with high grade finish, is not just a complication; it’s a statement of purpose and identity. Right now, just on the basis of the initial announcement this looks like potentially a very interesting alternative to some of the usual suspects in the battle for the attention of clients interested in a top-tier perpetual calendar chronograph.

The Chopard Perpetual Chrono, reference 161973-1001: Fairmined 18k white gold case, 45 mm x 15.06 mm, 30 m water resistant. Movement, hand-wound caliber L.U.C. 03.10-L, perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph, vertical clutch and column wheel controlled, variable inertia balance, COSC certified chronometer, Geneva Hallmark. High accuracy moon-phase display with one day’s deviation per 122 years. Displays: hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, moonphase, center chronograph seconds, 12 hour and 30 minute counters; day of the week and leap year as well.


Inspired by watchmaker and founding father Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C collection bearing his initials has been home to arguably some of Chopard’s finest contemporary work. Well, that collection just got a new flagship wth the Geneva Seal-certified Chopard L.U.C Lunar One – a dashing perpetual calendar watch with a moon phase indicator, cased in platinum. Introduced in 2005, the Lunar One gets a fresh dial design and a platinum case this year. No surprise here, but the watch looks beautiful and is yet another object of lust for all but 100 people who will get to call one of these their own.
The new dial introduces applied Roman numerals, a trio of subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the moon phase and calendar complications, along with the “big date” aperture, which carries through from earlier variants. But even in all that activity, the deep blue sunray dial is probably the best possible canvas to contrast all the polished elements and indicators delineating the information on each register. Note that the sunray texture ratdiates not from the center, but from the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One logo. The Lunar One’s alternating brushed and polished platinum case measures a very full 43mm wide, and squeezing this watch in a case any smaller would be nearly impossible. The fact that the watch is 11.47mm thick will likely keep it from appearing too big on the wrist for those who might be inclined towards a smaller case.
The subdials do appear to me to be squeezing the numerals around them. It gives me the same feeling as when I’m unfortunate enough to have the middle seat on a plane, packed between two people too wide for their own seats. The feeling of these subdials being a little “bloated” definitely makes the idea of the watch being even one millimeter narrower seem like a balloon-popping proposition.

The Calibre 96.13-L beating within is considered to be Chopard’s crown jewel, hardly a small accomplishment in a stable of pretty interesting calibers at both ends of the complication spectrum. Requiring adjustment only once every 122 years (hypothetically speaking), the perpetual calendar nicely complements the moon phase indicator, but it is no typical moon phase indicator with a stationary aperture displaying the current shape of the moon. This one is an “astronomical moon phase” complication that orbits the 6:00 register in accordance with its proper phase and astronomical positioning in the nighttime sky.

From a finishing standpoint, the movement – visible through the sapphire crystal caseback – dazzles with its generous Côtes de Genève stripes, contrasting circular-grained and beveled movement bridges, and a 22-carat gold micro-rotor – something of a rarity amongst automatic perpetual calendars. The 96.13-L operates at 28,800vph and has a substantial power reserve of 65 hours.
It bears mentioning that the Chopard Lunar One is a COSC-certified chronometer – a somewhat redundant distinction, considering that this watch also bears the Geneva Seal. Also called the Hallmark of Geneva or the Poinçon de Genève, depending on the translation, this ultra-exclusive independent certification of excellence governs the hand finishing, assembly, movement casing, and adjustment of the watch, and is usually reserved for the very best of the best (learn all about the Geneva Seal in-depth here). That distinction also comes with a certain exclusivity,


As part of what would have been Chopard’s Baselworld 2020 announcements, the brand has launched two new iterations of their L.U.C Perpetual Twin. Alongside the existing steel/silver dial version, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin can now be had in steel with a blue dial or 18k rose gold with a ruthenium grey dial. The L.U.C line represents some of Chopard’s most elaborate watchmaking, and from both a value and a finishing perspective, the COSC-certified performance of the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin makes for a very appealing and modern QP offering.
I remember seeing this 43mm wide QP in person at Baselworld 2016 when it was launched. L.U.C models always stand out in my memory because they offer a very high level of finishing when compared against others at their price point and are typically a joy to photograph (especially in macro). For these new versions, the format remains very Chopard, with an almost sporty blue dial and a more classic rose gold/grey dial option. Both come on matched straps as seen in the photos and both have display casebacks offering a view of the lovely movement within.
Powered by the L.U.C 96.22-L, like the original model, these Perpetual Twins are COSC-certified and tick at 4 Hz while offering a dual aperture big date display, a full QP display, and standard time. With 65 hours of power reserve supported by two barrels, the 99.22-L has a 22-karat micro-rotor that really completes a rather lovely movement.

Pricing starts at $24,700 for the steel (in either the existing silver dial or the new blue dial). As an elegant and impactful alternative to other “entry-level” steel QPs from luxury brands – this is exceedingly relative, I am aware – like the JLC Master Ultra Thin Perpetual ($19,600) or the Glashütte Original Senator Excellent Perpetual Calendar ($22,300), the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin is worth a look (and rose gold never hurt anyone).
It’s a little harder to sell a watch (or, for that matter, luxury consumer goods in general) than it was even 12 months ago, if the figures recently released by the Swiss watch industry are to be believed, and increasingly, people who love fine watchmaking seem to be inclined to look more carefully at whether or not there’s actually something more behind what they’re buying than novelty, or a strong brand name. Depending on who you are and what you’re making, this can be a bad thing, or it can be an opportunity. For a company like Chopard, which makes some very beautiful haute horlogerie watches, but which has never quite had the recognition as a watchmaker that the Pateks, Vacherons, and APs of the world enjoy, times like these are a chance to make potential clients more aware of what they’ve got to offer. The Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin , in steel, therefore, is both an end in itself, and a means by which the company hopes to get out the message that there’s more out there at the high end than the usual suspects.