Chopard L.U.C FLYING T TWIN

In 2019, Chopard debuted the Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin watch, which housed the calibre 96.24-L, the brand’s first automatic flying tourbillon. Now, we see a follow-up to the original, this time in a white-gold case with solid gold dial done in blue with honeycomb guilloché. Not just an aesthetic triumph, the Flying T Twin features an ultra-thin stop-seconds tourbillon and a movement that is both COSC-certified and bears the Geneva Seal. Limited to 50 pieces, this watch is a testament to the Scheufele family’s investment in Chopard’s L.U.C division.
For anyone unfamiliar, L.U.C is the initials of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard and is the designation given to watches produced at the brand’s high-end manufacture in Fleurier that opened in 1996. While I admire the more recent releases, I personally have a deep love for some of the earliest L.U.C pieces Chopard released. I would place the first two Chopard L.U.C calibers (the 1.96 and 1.98 Quattro) amongst offerings from the finest watchmakers out there. So, while I find this new Flying T Twin to be well-sized for the contemporary buyer at 40mm, I can’t help but be even more drawn to the limited-edition model Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin watch did with Revolution in the 36.5mm case. Why?
Because the 96.24-L is based on, and is the same size as, the first L.U.C Calibre 1.96, which measures 27.4mm-wide and 3.3mm-thick. My personal taste will always prioritize a movement that fits snugly in its case rather than sizing up the case to fit consumer tastes. But…Chopard is a business, and I understand why they would choose not to limit a six-figure offering to a 36.5mm case in 2021.
Released in 2019, the L.U.C Calibre 96.24-L was Chopard’s first automatic flying tourbillon. The “flying” refers to the fact that there is no upper bridge supporting the tourbillon in place (such as you’d find in a manual-wind tourbillon like this one) and, due to it being a one-minute tourbillon, it serves as a seconds counter as well. It is also COSC-certified (not common for tourbillons) and is a stop-seconds tourbillon, which is not something I’ve seen other than a handful of times by brands like A. Lange & Söhne, Gronefeld, Moritz Grossmann, and one or two others. The lion’s share of tourbillons out there will not stop when you pull out the crown to set the time, sacrificing the kind of accuracy one would have with any watch with a hacking seconds function.
The 96.24-L bears the Geneva Seal, so we know that the finishing on the movement is excellent. The “twin” part of the T Twin designation refers to the fact that this movement has two stacked barrels, thanks to Chopard’s patented Twin technology. This allows the modestly sized movement to achieve an impressive 65-hour power reserve. Just like the Michel Parmigiani-designed original L.U.C Calibre 1.96, the 96.24-L has that beautifully finished 22k-gold micro-rotor serving as the visual centerpiece on the caseback.
While the tourbillon and movement will initially garner the most attention, the dial warrants praise of its own. Since its inception, Chopard L.U.C has been making dials out of solid gold for select pieces by partnering with Metalem, who is among the top dial makers out there (they make Philippe Dufour’s dials). The dial for this Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin watch is done in a solid gold that is galvanized in order to achieve the blue color. Sadly, much of the guilloché we see done nowadays is stamped by a machine, which is certainly not the case here.

The dial of this L.U.C (like many before it) is done using guillochage, AKA hand-done engine turning. The intricate, non-uniform honeycomb pattern here is drop-dead gorgeous, as is the very finely done circular pattern around the dial’s exterior circumference.
Done in “Fairmined” 18k white gold, the case of the Flying T Twin measures 40mm-wide and 7.7mm-thick and has 30m of water resistance. Where the first model in 2019 came in a rose-gold case with a gray ruthenium galvanized gold dial, this new iteration opts for white gold with the aforementioned blue galvanized gold dial. Chopard uses “100% ethical gold,” which is a legitimate and admirable move toward sustainability and human rights.

Chopard L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE

As part of celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard decided to surprise us with two new COSC-certified travel companions in the L.U.C line, the Chopard L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE and the GMT One. This collection is named in tribute to Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the company’s founder, and reserved for pieces entirely designed and manufactured in-house. We had the opportunity to see them in the metal last week and have tons of live pictures and our first impressions of both models. Spoiler alert: We were mightily impressed.
Chopard’s first worldtimer is, in fact, a true worldtimer. This might sound like a tautology, but it’s anything but. A lot of so-called worldtimers are actually just GMT watches or watches with some sort of additional timezone display. The Chopard L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE , however, shows the time in all 24 timezones at once, thanks to a rotating 24-hour ring (there are actually 37 timezones in total, with a few 30 and 15 minute zones, but unless you have a new Overseas World Time you’ll have to make do with a more typical 24-hour ring). What makes Chopard’s model stand out is the case it comes in. It’s a Super Compressor style case with the signature dual crowns, a design typically associated with – but not limited to – dive watches from the 1950s through 1970s. A few worldtimers have used dual crowns in the past, since both divers and worldtimers can take advantage of a rotating internal bezel. Local time and date are set using the L.U.C-signed crown at two o’clock, while the city disc is operated by the globe-adorned crown at four o’clock. The different signatures ensure that you won’t mix the two up when you’re trying to adjust on the go.
The watches Chopard L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE is also reasonably sized. It measures 42mm across and is 12.1mm thick, with sapphire crystals front and back. Water resistance is 50m, which is when you realize the case is not actually a Super Compressor (the term is trademarked, and identifies a special class of diving case made by Ervin Piquerez S.A. and rated to a depth of 600 ft). The watches could have been a little smaller – the movement, visible in full through the back, is approximately 35mm across – but Chopard decided to make a larger dial in order to ensure its legibility. Worldtimers can be notoriously difficult to read, and here this feels like a wise choice. The watch is powered by caliber 01.05-L, a self-winding movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It’s well decorated, with chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève throughout. Within the new Time Traveler One family, I would argue the stainless steel option is the most attractive, and also the most legible of the three because of the orange accents on the arrow hand and hour markers. The platinum model is a strong proposition for larger budgets, with a beautiful grey and blue dial that’s extremely elegant, if a little harder to read.
Chopard also unveiled a fully integrated GMT, in a timepiece styled similarly to the stainless steel Travel Time One. The case of the GMT One is almost identical to the worldtimer’s – it’s only slightly thinner, by one millimeter – and that isn’t enough to make a noticeable difference on the wrist. You’ve still got the two crowns as well. However, compared to its big brother, the dial is a lot cleaner, with the simple date window at six o’clock subbing in for the 24-hour timezone display. Perhaps the hour and minute hands would have benefited from a small extension to reflect this change of design, but overall there’s little to complain about in terms of legibility and execution. Local time is again set by the upper crown, while the lower crown controls the GMT hand used to display the second timezone. To clearly distinguish between day and night, the GMT One uses white and orange Arabic numerals respectively, again betting on the design’s vintage appeal. Powering the watch is the manufacture-made caliber L.U.C 01.10-L, a self-winding, chronometer-certified movement, that offers a 60-hour power reserve.
Chopard L.U.C TIME TRAVELER ONE produces only 4,500 L.U.C timepieces a year, and they’re some of the most underrated watches made today (check out our visit to the manufacture here). All are handsomely-made and feature in-house calibers with high chronometric and finishing standards. The introduction of a new GMT and a new worldtimer should help propel the company forward and hopefully invite a new group of collectors to give the manufacture a try.

Chopard L.U.C GMT ONE

L.U.Chopard, or L.U.C for short, stands for yet more high-end variations of the luxury watches made by Chopard, the Fleurier-based independent watch manufacture. Invariably equipped with juicy in-house calibers, recent years saw L.U.C introduce more competitively priced models in stainless steel, ranging between $8,190 and $13,700. From then on, it’s all gold and platinum. In for review is the Chopard L.U.C GMT One in stainless steel — and I’m curious to see if this could be the thinking man’s luxury GMT. When you say GMT, I say Rolex. Not because I wish to imply theirs is the absolute best (there’s no such thing in watches), but because it seems to be the GMT that so many around the world think they need to quench their thirst for a daily-wearable, luxurious watch with a piece of additional functionality that they can actually use. And yes, that’s where the Chopard L.U.C GMT One reference 168579-3001 comes into the picture.
Although the Chopard L.U.C GMT One is incomparably rarer and, therefore, at least in some ways more interesting than your run-of-the-mill alternatives (which you can see multiples of in any given check-in line at the posher airports of the world), it doesn’t mean that it’s needlessly exotic or off-the-wall. The first impression it creates is a rather more grownup one, ditching a bracelet for a mighty black alligator leather strap with matte square plates, hand-sewn matching tones, and brown alligator lining. It’s the handmade alligator sandwich that Chopard likes to use on its watches, something that both looks and feels expensive. Unlike a bracelet, it certainly isn’t water resistant, though. The 42mm case size features a thin bezel and a wide dial. Although there is a grand total of just 13 orange elements over tastefully combined variations of whites, grays, silvers, and blacks, the orange components do very much leave their noticeable mark. Despite this youthful touch, in the metal, the GMT One’s impression remains that of an elegant and grown-up watch more than anything else. This may totally be just me, but when I look at this watch, on this strap, with this slightly larger case, I picture a customer in his 40s or 50s, someone with a more mature taste in his clothes, style, and choice of accessories — notably, where mature does not equate dull.
The 42mm-wide case is just 12mm-thick, but the case profile (including bezel, case band, and caseback) that your eye picks up is under 8mm. Once you’ve worn a thin watch, chances are that you’ll be reluctant to strap something bulky and tall and wobbly around your wrist. The two crowns are almost as tall as the entire case, which means that they are large enough to make them reasonably comfortable to use. I can’t say for sure, but a 3 and 10 o’clock setup for the two crowns, perhaps, would have been a favorable solution, making the GMT One appear more like a traditional watch when its right side peeks out from under a shirt’s or jacket’s sleeve. It isn’t like you’d be using the GMT’s crown that often anyway — maybe a few times a week, tops, if you are a frequent traveler. Water resistance is 50 meters, which in the real world is perfectly enough to give you peace of mind during an accidental splash or immersion. I wouldn’t say the same thing about the 30-meter rating on, say, the Panerai Luminor Due. The hands are those trademark Chopard L.U.C hands that never fail to remind me of the Chrysler Building. They are brightly polished on both their facets, but its precisely because of those facets that they remain so beautifully legible under all circumstances. Much like a black mirror-polished component in ultra-high-end watch movements, the polished surfaces either have a chrome-like, bright look, or a dark one — properties that only quality components possess. Chopard also had the brains to put shiny hands over a matte-ish dial… The temptation of “all shiny everything!” is so large not even Rolex can escape it — and that’s true not only for the temptation itself, but also for its consequential detrimental effects on legibility. Matte hands over shiny dials, shiny hands over matte dials is where it’s at. It’s simple.
I have said this before, and I’ll say it again, because it’s an interesting experiment that I have going on. Years ago, I started checking the daily-wear watch choices of exceptionally intelligent people that I get to meet. Architects, car designers, engineers, surgeons, CEOs, and so on— the percentage with an illegible watch is in the low single-digits. Some people knowingly, others instinctively steer away from watches with poor legibility, and that pattern is exceptionally pronounced among said individuals. Bright, visible hands in high contrast with a dial, surrounded by clearly marked indices, has been the must for nigh-on every single person in this group I’ve met in recent years. If you’re so inclined, I invite you to join this fun experiment. The Chopard L.U.C GMT One applies that focus on real-world utility and legibility not only on its main indication, but also on that of the second time zone. The Arabic numerals on the flange ring reserved for the 24-hour display are almost exactly as large as those on the main dial. The orange GMT hand stretches across the wide dial in an almost dizzying way; it’s just cool to see this orange strip reaching so long and ending in an orange framed, white lume-filled triangle.
Speaking of which, the only shortcoming I could find in the GMT One is its lume. It isn’t as bright, nor as consistent in its texture as it could reasonably be expected at this price point. Chopard specifies this as Super-LumiNova, the type of luminescent material most commonly used on quality watches and the color does line up with C3 Super-LumiNova. It is not applied as evenly as it should have been. Segments where the paint is a few fractions of a millimeter thinner will show up as darker areas. This could very well be just a one-off thing, and it certainly isn’t a deal-breaker, but hey, it’s there.
The Chopard L.U.C GMT One is powered by the L.U.C 01.10-L in-house movement. This self-winding caliber matches its 4 Hertz operating frequency to an extended, weekend-lasting 60-hour power reserve that is most definitely a welcome feature. L.U.C is also an avenue for Chopard to flex its watchmaking muscles — even at this competitive price point. A bridge proudly boasts about the L.U.C 01.10-L having been adjusted to heat, cold, isochronism, and five positions: that’s some old-school, high-quality watch movement charm right there. With that training at Chopard’s watchmaker benches, it’s no surprise that all L.U.C 01.10-L that end up in the GMT One is a COSC-certified chronometer. Unlike Chopard’s first in-house caliber, the micro-rotor-equipped, drop-dead gorgeous 96.01 (that’s also available from $8,470), the GMT One has a full-sized rotor.
The way the GMT indication works is interesting. The GMT hand is inseparably linked to the hour hand. Pull the crown out to its first position to quick-set the date, and to the second position to set the main hours and minutes. As you do the latter, the GMT hand rotates along with the main hands. So, how do you set the “GMT” to the correct time zone? By pulling the second crown at 4 o’clock to its first position and using it to advance the 24-hour flange ring around the dial. The crown takes quite a bit of turning to advance the ring and it works in only one direction. Once the GMT hand lines up with the correct time, you’re all set.
At a hair over the $10k mark, the Chopard L.U.C GMT One is an expensive, but also expensively made, alternative currently on tap to quench that GMT thirst. The beautifully polished case with its trademark L.U.C lugs, the satin-brushed sunburst dial, the Chrysler Building hands (lume notwithstanding), and the all-capable, properly in-house movement make this a truly luxurious watch inside and out. Parts where large-group watch brands love to cut costs, namely the strap and buckle, are both the sort of look and feel worthy of a five-figure watch. The GMT One is a feel-good watch, comparable to a hefty, nicely woven sweater or a tailored tweed jacket — compared to something from, say, Hugo Boss. No L.U.C will say to your peers that you know how to rig the system (i.e., get ahead on a biblical waiting list). But it will say that you have good taste, an eye for quality and the willingness to make up your own mind. I’m not saying that’s only possible with an L.U.C — but it’s one of the best damn tools if that’s what you want to say about yourself.
L.U.C has, for decades, been a watch-lover’s watch — and although I’m not saying that Rolex isn’t, wearing this will certainly set you apart. Which, funnily enough, is probably why you thought you needed the Rolex in the first place. It’s not that hard to be smitten by the decidedly masculine, yet distinctly non-over-compensating appeal of L.U.C. I’d have no trouble recommending the L.U.C GMT One to anyone with a need for a proper watch from a proper manufacture, with a GMT function around the $10k mark. I do wish it came with more color options and maybe even a guilloché-centered dial.

Chopard L.U.C QUATTRO

For the past several years, Chopard has been on fire with its releases and even picked up a few awards along the way. Through its eponymous L.U.C collection, the Genevan manufacturer has shown the world that it is not only capable in high jewellery, but also high horology. This year, Chopard has given one of its signature L.U.C watches a facelift, resulting in a relaxed yet elegant look. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the newly refreshed Chopard L.U.C Quattro.
At 43 mm in case diameter, the L.U.C Quattro is anything but dainty. If you’re looking for a classically proportioned dress watch, you’re better off looking at Chopard’s other offerings or elsewhere. The watch, however, will please those who don’t mind a contemporarily sized timepiece with an unmissable presence on the wrist. Compared to the width, the height of the L.U.C Quattro is much more conservative at only 8.87 mm. This allows the watch to easily slip under any tight dress cuffs or sleeves. The 18k rose gold case features an attractive contrast of finishes; the combination of the polished lugs and bezel along with the satin-brushed case flanks is very easy on the eyes.
The main changes that distinguish this year’s new Chopard L.U.C Quattro from its predecessors can be found on the dial. Firstly, the dial, which previously had a matte finish, is now vertically satin-brushed. This tones down the formality of the timepiece and introduces an industrial feel. The sunken power reserve, date and subsidiary seconds displays have all become more simplified in appearance. Unlike the main dial, they are not satin-brushed, but are adorned with a combination of matte and guilloched finish. The assortment of depth and finishes on the dial supports the notion that within Chopard’s haute horlogerie arm of watchmaking, detail remains king.
On top of the dial (quite literally) are heat-blued diamond and Arabic numeral hour markers as well as dauphine-style hands for the hours, minutes and seconds. They really stand out against the brushed silvery dial and the rose gold case. To avoid confusion, the hands of the date and power reserve indicators are lancet-style and crafted in rose gold. Together, the design changes on the new L.U.C Quattro bring forth a modern, relaxed vibe without sacrificing elegance.
Powering the Chopard L.U.C Quattro is the 223-part, in-house manufactured Calibre L.U.C 98.01-L. The Calibre L.U.C 98.01-L was the world’s first manually wound movement with two pairs of stacked mainspring barrels (hence the name ‘Quattro’, ‘Four’ in Italian). It boasts a whopping 9-day power reserve – the longest in the L.U.C collection – while operating at a contemporary 4 Hz beat rate. The movement is COSC-certified for precision, which is rather impressive given its extreme power reserve.
The finishing and decoration of the Calibre L.U.C 98.01-L remains as immaculate as before, in accordance to its Poinçon de Genève certification. You can’t miss the highly textured Côtes de Genève, the polished bevels and screw heads and the even perlage on the main plate – all done by hand. All in all, the Calibre L.U.C 98.01-L is a simple movement executed to the highest extent of form and function, one that any serious high-end manufacturer would be proud of.
While there is nothing groundbreaking about the new L.U.C Quattro, Chopard’s new take on one of its signature watches has been unanimously well-received. The watch comes with a blue calfskin strap to add to its casual-elegant appeal, but what’s interesting is that it will be produced in a limited edition of only 50 pieces. The watch is set to retail at CHF24,600, a more-than-fair price to pay for the specifications, materials and finishing that it comes with, in our opinion.
Just a bit up the scale lies the cult icon from Glashütte, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1, at SGD47,200 (or about CHF34,515). Much like the L.U.C Quattro, the Lange 1 comes with a power reserve indicator and a date function (displayed via a date window and adjustable by a pusher at 10 o’clock). While it has only a third of the power reserve of the Chopard, it more than makes up for it with superior finishing, which would account – in part – for the CHF10,000 premium.
Also competing for the affection of collectors is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche. Like the Lange 1 and the L.U.C Quattro, it too comes with a date and power reserve display. The design of the Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche is classical through and through, though that stance is eased a little by its cool blue dial. The watch is equipped with the robust and reliable Calibre 938, and with a stainless steel case, it is perfect for daily wear. It should be noted however that the movement lacks hand-finishing and looks nowhere near as pleasing as the Chopard or the Lange. The lack of hand-finishing and a precious metal casing does come with a nice perk though: it enables Jaeger-LeCoultre to offer more watch per dollar. Priced at SGD13,000 (or CHF9,500), the Master Ultra Thin Reserve de Marche is noticeably more affordable and accessible. Unless you’re a finissage fiend, resisting the value proposition of this blue-dialled beauty will prove to be an exercise in futility.
The new Chopard L.U.C Quattro hits the mark with its simplified design and effective use of everyone’s favourite blued steel. It may not be a watch with face-melting complications or innovations worthy of the Aiguille d’Or (something Chopard is getting used to now), but it is still a handsome, practical timepiece with a fantastic movement to boot.

Chopard L.U.C HERITAGE GRAND CRU

The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru watch is a successor to the brand’s first L.U.C XP Tonneau watch which was released in 2001. This latest in Chopard’s deservedly vaunted L.U.C division is named after the distinction given to the most superior grades of wine produced… Though, how these two distinct fields of fine living resonate we shall try not only to explain, but also discover ourselves
Reminiscent and similar to the Chopard L.U.C XP Tonneau watch, the Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is an unusual piece from Chopard based on case shape alone – more on that in a bit. A glance at its spec sheet gives away an automatic, tonneau-shaped, 3.3mm thick movement wrapped inside an 18kt rose gold, tonneau-shaped case that measures just 38.5mm by 38.8mm, coming in at a slender 7.7mm thick.
The curved middle section of the case is vertical satin brushed while the bezel and area surrounding the exhibition case-back is polished. Past the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal is a white porcelain-type dial with black Roman numerals, with a minute track surrounding the center of the dial. At 6 o’clock is the small seconds sub-dial, which is snailed and has a gilded seconds hand. The hour and minute hands are dauphine style and are also gilded.
It is not unusual for gold hands on watches to be polished to a point where it’s not even worth asking about legibility in higher-light conditions. The gilded, i.e. plated gold hands here are vibrant but are quite legible in the sunlight and at various angles. Set against the glossy, cool porcelain dial, the dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands are properly angular and thoughtfully proportioned for a tonneau-shaped case. Fusée means rocket in French and this specific type of dauphine hands is Chopard’s own – something I continue to very much enjoy regardless the case shape and dial style they install it on. Their faceted sides and perfect length give them plenty of volume – and no watch can be taken seriously without proper hands.
At 6 o’clock, you can see the seconds sub-dial with a hand that is similar to the hours and minutes hand in that it’s also gilded, but it is not done in the same style. I appreciate Chopard’s own-designed and proprietary font and red color used to indicate the time increments at 15, 45, and 60 and even though I wasn’t sure about the markers in between the digits at first, it’s something I quite like now. Also, a notable detail is that these markers – both the numerals and the little points between them – are so small, even with my good near-sight I could barely take them out.
Additionally, as is usual for so many L.U.C watches, there is the date window placed at the bottom of the seconds sub-dial, blended into the minute track to minimize its effect on the dial’s aesthetics. “To date or not to date?” – that is always the question, but I can appreciate Chopard sticking to its idea of adding this extra bit of functionality. Again, to be taken into consideration is also the fact that this is one of the smaller date windows – consider the sub-40mm size of the watch and the proportionally yet smaller date window, and the distraction-factor really is minimized.
The exhibition case-back allows a view into the Geneva Seal approved 97.01-L Calibre movement that, like the 97.03-L found in the L.U.C Tonneau watch, is a tonneau-shaped automatic movement. A 22ct gold micro-rotor drives the two stacked barrels built using Chopard’s Twin technology, providing a total of 65 hours of power reserve at a frequency of 4Hz. The movement measures at 28.15mm by 27.60mm at just 3.3mm thick and is made of 197 components, and has 29 jewels.
Chopard calls the Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru u “the only tonneau shape watch wound by an automatic movement” – though the Clé de Cartier, several Richard Mille pieces, and even some Franck Muller models spring to mind as other watches that fit this description.The Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Hebdomadaire is indeed a tonneau shaped watch with a tonneau shaped movement, but one that is a manual wind, but the RM 67-01 (hands-on here) is very much a tonneau-shaped movement in a tonneau watch.
The bridges are adorned with a refined Côtes de Genève pattern and there is beveling and polishing work throughout. Of course, this movement boasts the Poinçon de Genève – also known as the Geneva Seal or Hallmark of Geneva. The Geneva Seal is a more rare quality certification, reserved only for watches produced in the canton of Geneva. Refreshed and rendered more stringent a few years ago, the Geneva Seal now includes a set criteria regarding not only the aesthetic qualities of the movement, but also that of the case, as well as testing performance claims including accuracy, power reserve, water resistance, and all functions. Getting back to something I mentioned at the beginning is the topic of the ‘Grand Cru’ designation of the watch. The name will eternally remain engraved on the case-back – and will likely force sales reps and owners to elicit the same confused and somewhat tortured explanation that a man with the most distinguished and elevated taste in wine would be the man who wears this timepiece.
There actually is a bit more to it than that, it just isn’t really communicated about. The only way I can look at this seemingly irrelevant engraving and take it as something meaningful is through considering it as the Scheufele family shyly peeking through the thick Chopard curtain for a moment. Over half a century ago the Scheufele family purchased Chopard, a dying company with just a few employees left, and built it into one of the most successful and, to date, independent luxury jewelry and watch brands around. Chopard’s watch business – and, more importantly from our perspective, the quality Chopard L.U.C watches – is the brain- and love child of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a well-spoken, humble, second-generation member of the Chopard-Scheufele era.

It was his idea and project to make Chopard into a vertically integrated and, hence, safely independent, watch manufacture – their first movement they produced in 1996 and since then have been on a roll, with self-developed chronographs, insanely complicated perpetual calendar chronograph, “All In One” watches, and simply the best sounding minute repeater to date.All this, and yet the Scheufele family remains almost totally behind the scenes of Chopard – in fact, this “Grand Cru” designation is the only occasion I can think of when it’s something personal to them that has been added to a Chopard watch. It’s the most shy and timid way, as they are placing a reference to something that’s their personal hobby and passion on a Chopard watch.
The related story is that the Scheufele family have recently acquired a vineyard and chateau – after some 20 years of research, to fulfill their passion for wine-making. In fact, I have gotten to know Karl-Friedrich Scheufele as an obsessive perfectionist for his passions, namely watches and wine, as well as vintage cars. The motivations that led him to pursue the vineyard basically provide the same kind of drive that led to his creation and success of the Chopard L.U.C division. However, Chopard should ideally find a way to credit the Scheufele’s for what they have done to make Chopard into what it is and turn this into a personal, relatable element – but, with the best will in the world, I seriously doubt the above-mentioned story will be received and then forwarded onto the customer by even the most motivated Chopard sales team. Perhaps if more people were educated about the Scheufele family and their role in making Chopard what it is today, there would be a stronger link between this watch and how its identity is both presented and marketed. In his brief explanation on this note, Mr. Scheufele said the link he sees and enjoys between watch- and wine-making is that both take a very long time to do well, require a lot of flexibility, as well as the understanding and utilization of both traditional and modern know-how. A main difference is how mother nature can at the last moment strongly affect the quality of the wine – not so much that of the watch, he joked (at this moment I could sense how mother nature and his own lack of compromise in seeking quality have put him through some struggles while trying to get their Bergerac vineyard up to his standards). The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is an attractive watch that legitimately presents a unique offering in a classic style tonneau watch that achieves both a slim case and an automatic movement. It’s a shame to see a watch that gets all (or most of) the major and minor details right but just stumbles a little in messaging due to how subtly its identity is communicated.
The L.U.C line has always flown under the radar, letting the watches speak for themselves. The Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is an attractive watch that legitimately presents a unique offering in a classic style Tonneau watch that achieves both a slim case and an automatic movement.

Chopard L.U.C XPS

Introduced in 2006, the Chopard L.U.C XP has been one of the brand’s most elegantly simple dress watches. Last year, we had a chance to see refined and updated versions of the Chopard L.U.C XPS (the “S” designation refers to the inclusion of a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock) watch in stainless steel, 18ct rose and white gold – plus there is also a version in platinum with a blue dial which also boasts the Geneva Seal. The new XPS watches all take on some of the more “signature” characteristics of the L.U.C line while there are distinct updates unique to each of the three watches.
What’s unchanged is the size of the 40mm-wide and 7.2mm-thick case. However, Chopard has made minor modifications by trimming down the lugs so the watch sits more comfortably on the wrist. Additionally, they have domed the sapphire crystal on the dial. The intention here was to have the softly domed crystal slip under a sleeve more smoothly.
A significant change in the refreshed Chopard L.U.C XPS line will be the new fusee Dauphine-type hands that are replacing the outgoing classic-Dauphine hands. These angular, three-dimensional hands provide a more modern look, with the hour-markers shaped as raised and facetted arrows. These hands are similar to those we saw in models released earlier this year, like the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer’s watch. Definitely an upgrade for the XPS. Another change you’ll notice on the dial is that the text “Chronometer” is now written under the brand logo. This is found in higher end Chopard L.U.C watches and elevates these pieces’ prestige.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS in stainless steel has a grained white dial texture that is new. The snailed small seconds sub-dial and rhodium-plated hands, indices, and appliques all come together in an attractive and conservative dial.

The stainless steel Chopard L.U.C XPS features the automatic L.U.C 96-50-L Calibre which can be seen through the case back. This movement measures 27.4mm in diameter and is 3.3mm thick. Like all the pieces in this collection and many others, the double barrel or “Twin” technology is employed in this movement. Operating at 28,800 vph, it achieves a 58-hour power reserve. Other features of the movement are a flat balance spring and, of course, Côtes de Genève work down on the bridges.
We see a black dial used for the 18ct white gold model and a silver-toned dial for the 18ct rose gold watch. Both of these feature a new sunburst dial that make these pieces more radiant than the stainless steel model. The white and rose gold Chopard L.U.C XPS watches house the automatic L.U.C 96.12-L calibre. This movement is also 27.4mm in diameter and 3.3mm thick. This movement boasts a 22ct gold stamped micro-rotor, the double barrel Twin technology, a flat balance spring, and Côtes de Genève on the bridges. Operating at 28,800 vph, there is a substantial 65-hour power reserve.
Finally, the platinum model features a galvanic blue dial with sunburst satin-brushed dial finishing in addition to the Rhodium-plated hands, numerals, and indices. In addition to the case material, the movement is what distinguishes this piece from the others. The Chopard L.U.C 96.01-L calibre features the Geneva Seal (also known as Poinçon de Genève or Geneva Hallmark) which is reserved for movements with the highest level of decoration quality and are also is tested for accuracy, water resistance, power reserve, and performance. The 96.01-L calibre features a swan neck regulator, a balance spring with Philips curve, and of course Côtes de Genève work on the bridges. Operating at 28,800 vph, this movement has a power reserve of 65 hours.

Chopard L.U.C 1937

I have been silent for some time. In a watch obsessed family it is difficult to utter very much without my son becoming both dreamy-eyed and verbose. His enthusiasm is boundless. My silence, since I too am loquacious in temperament, has probably been appreciated but I only wax lyrical when something really takes my eye. Normally I fall in love with classic lines and if the timepiece is presented in rose gold then I can be captivated. It is just such a watch which has me writing again after a protracted period of inactivity.
“And it’s such a beautiful face” that I am happy to share my enthusiasm for what is a watch with refinement, restraint and elegance. It is timeless and quite exquisite. There is a stainless steel version but the red gold has such warmth, a glow and sheen, that it is totally entrancing. With the brown crocodile leather strap it has a wonderful timeless quality that speaks of more genteel time, when the pace was more measured and there was a poise and gentility in manner and demeanour. There is a bracelet if the leather strap does not appeal but I feel that the leather complement’s the classic styling to perfection. The nostalgia quotient is high.

Looking at the salient features of the dial on the Chopard LUC 1937 Classic, the happy marriage of the white, silver-toned dial, which has warmth that a pure white would lack, and the gold is harmonious. The eye is transfixed by the solidity and boldness of the gold, applied Roman numerals and, which speak of dependability, reliability and trustworthiness. This is no effete offering but there is no clumsiness. They are generous in their proportions, in keeping with the richness of the case whilst maintaining a graceful line.

There is no gimmickry. No attempt at illusion. All is clear. The chapter ring neatly traces the outer limits of the dial and is simple in line. The quarters are marked without embellishment in Arabic numerals.

At 6 o’clock the date aperture reveals that information in simple number form with slender lines, in black, in Arabic form.

All is clearly defined. Nothing intrudes. Nothing detracts or distracts. Essential information of the watch’s lineage, its qualities, “chronometer” and “automatic”, is imparted in simple upper case lettering, as unobtrusively as possible.

The marking of time is the primary focus and that is done effectively and elegantly by the three hands. Those of hour and minute are tapering, dauphine in form, their interiors, in-filled in white, echoing the satin-brushed silver-toned face and they are luminous.

The seconds’ hand is by contrast straight, thin, elongated and gold.

As the numerals have strength and solidity so too have the counter balances of the hands and they compliment each other.The rich 18 carat rose gold case is beautifully finished with a comforting solidity. The lugs sweep in graceful curves. There is no frugality. Whilst the movement is quite thin, 4.95 mm, it is housed in a case which is 10.64mm thick and yet it appears sleek. There is no hint of clumsiness in line or form. A simple knurled screw-lock crown with the “L.U.C.” legend is set, as tradition would dictate, at 3 o’clock.Sapphire crystal front and back affords a clear view of hours and minutes and at the reverse, access to the joys of gazing at the movement.Its chronometer credentials courtesy of COSC certification promise accuracy. It is notably an accreditation afforded to few, earned only after rigorous testing

This Chopard LUC 1937 movement from Fleurier in the Val de Travers, the L.U.C 1.1010, carries a two year warranty but fashioned in-house the name is its warranty, no time framed guarantee is needed. It is automatic winding. It proffers a hacking seconds and delivers a 60 hour power reserve.

Look through the exhibition back. Espy the thirty one jewels, their presence remarked upon in the detail etched into the Côtes de Genève motif. Admire the hand bevelled edges of the bridge work. The finish is elegant and subtle. Excellence in technology is coupled with excellence in appearance.Maintaining its classic lines this watch offers so much. Its screw down crown means that it is guaranteed to be water resistant to 100 meters.

The furnishing of the alternative stainless steel option allows access to ownership at a lower price point. For the traditionalist there is the crocodile leather strap, hand sewn and highly polished. For those with more modern taste there is the bracelet. The former comes with a simple buckle fastening which I like and hold that it suits the simplicity and refinement of the watch’s styling.It’s not, to re-enlist the help of Cole Porter, “the wrong smile” and most definitely not, “the wrong style” and there is nothing strange in the attraction. The Chopard LUC 1937 Classic presents a face to the world which is endearing and is a testament to good taste and showcases the craftsmanship and flair of its creators.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 33

Launched in 2019, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 has fast established itself as one of the brand’s emblems, thanks to its instantly recognisable silhouette. So, it is no wonder the Swiss Manufacture has since enriched the collection with complications, such as a tourbillon and a patented flyback chronograph, as well as a range of case dimensions. Previously available in 36mm, 41mm, and 44mm sizes, the Alpine Eagle has a new 33mm version aimed squarely at dainty wrists.
Ladies enamoured of this luxury sports ticker will be spoilt for choice with six references in three material options – Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel A223 that is highly luminous, anti-allergenic, twice as hard as steel, and produced using 70% recycled material; 18K ethical rose gold; and bi-metal. Top of the line is the red carpet-ready rose gold variant with diamonds set into its bezel, with or without diamonds on its dial and central bracelet links. Meanwhile, the steel and bi-metal versions are also available with or without a diamond-set bezel.
Despite the reduction in dimensions, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 retained the same design elements that made the collection such a success. Angular yet fluid, its distinctive form is bolstered by its broad bezel with eight visible and functional screws. At the same time, its eagle feather central seconds hand sweeps across its dial adorned with Roman numerals and a sunburst motif evoking an eagle’s eye. More references to the majestic bird can be found on the raised central link of the bracelet that subtly recalls its mountain habitat.
The dial colours of the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 are likewise inspired by nature. The Aletsch Blue dials of the Lucent Steel A223 versions mimic the bluish shimmer of the largest glacier in the Swiss Alps, while the bi-metal variants are fitted with Bernina Grey dials that evoke the rocks of the mountain chain. On the other hand, the 18K ethical rose gold iteration with diamond-set bezel flaunts a Vals Grey dial that recalls the silvery reflections of quartzite stone, which has been used to build the walls and roofs of traditional houses in the region of the village of Vals. Finally, the 18K ethical rose gold timepiece with diamonds set into the dial, bezel, and bracelet warms with a Pink Dawn dial emulating the sun’s early light as it rises over the mountains.
Not merely a pretty face, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 is just as brilliant under the dial. Water-resistant to 50m and equipped with the in-house self-winding Chopard 09.01-C movement, it has a 42-hour power reserve and a sophisticated stop-seconds function for accurate time-setting. Most notably, its 8-ligne movement is one of the smallest to be chronometer-certified by COSC.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 is a charming addition to the family in the most wearable size for ladies. However, we wish there were also an iced-out version like the Alpine Eagle Frozen. That said, given the amount of attention Chopard has lavished on the three-year-old collection, we are fairly sure that is already on the cards.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 36

You definitely don’t need me to tell you that these days, stainless steel sports watches are, as the kids like to say, a thing. Walking into a watch shop that carries Rolex, Patek Philippe, or Audemars Piguet and actually seeing a steel Nautlius, Aquanaut, Daytona, GMT-Master II, or Royal Oak in a display case was once a commonplace occurrence, but as many of us know all too well, it just isn’t anymore. Our own Joe Thompson has written about this state of affairs as it pertains to one of these companies at length. One has to wonder, if supply simply isn’t meeting demand for steel watches from the above-mentioned watchmakers, where consumers who have the money and the desire will go? Today, Chopard is launching a new collection of watches called Chopard Alpine Eagle 36, in what looks to be a bid to win over watch buyers looking to scratch the steel sports watch itch.
To understand Alpine Eagle, where it comes from, its place in the broader watch market, and its position within the Chopard collection, it might be useful to remember the St. Moritz, a sport watch created by Chopard’s Karl-Friederich Scheufele back in 1980, when he was a 22-year-old newcomer to the family business. Named for the famed Swiss alpine ski resort and coming in a variety of executions, the St.Moritz was a successful line for a number of years before eventually being phased out in favor of other collections. In the intervening years, the Mille Miglia and its alignment with the world of vintage motorsports came to dominate the sport watch side of Chopard watchmaking, and the more classically elegant side of things was represented by the L.U.C watch collection.
While Chopard had in the St. Moritz a watch that was tailor-made for looking good while living well – not for driving, flying, or driving – the line was far enough in the rear view mirror that the youngest generation of the Scheufele family, Karl-Fritz Scheufele, had to ask his grandfather Karl about a watch he wore to the office one day a few years ago. It was a stainless steel variation of the St. Moritz that featured the classic configuration of integrated bracelet, tonneau-shaped case, and screwed bezel. “That’s the kind of watch that we should be making today,” the younger Scheufele said, and he had a point. It is the style of wristwatch that people are lining up to buy in 2019. Today, we’re seeing the launch of a new sport luxury line from Chopard with a design that is informed by the St. Moritz of yesteryear. Still, it bears mentioning that Alpine Eagle is very much indicative of the type of watchmaker Chopard is today, with manufacturing facilities spread throughout Switzerland and an estimable penchant for in-house manufacturing, which is quite a bit different from the kind of watchmaker it was back in 1980. And the increase in watchmaking know-how at Chopard is largely the work of Karl-Friederich Scheufele.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 36 is available in two sizes at its launch. There is a 41mm size and a smaller 36mm variation. Each of the two sizes comes with an in-house movement. In the case of the 41mm size, this is the 01.01-C mechanical movement with automatic winding. It beats at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and has a power reserve of 60 hours. In the case of the 36mm variations, we see the automatic 09.01-C, which beats at a slightly slower 25,200 vph (3.5Hz) and runs for 42 hours on a single wind. With both movements, we have in-house designed and manufactured calibers with COSC chronometer certification.

At launch, there are ten different references. There are three different variations of the 41mm version with date, and seven examples of the 36mm no-date version. Looking at the collection and seeing the various versions of the 36mm watch with gem-set cases and bracelets, it’s tempting to infer that the 36mm size is the ladies’s segment of the collection, but that is not how Chopard is presenting them. And in fact, there is a 36mm version in plain stainless steel, sans diamonds, that I had a chance to try on earlier this summer – while I preferred the feel of the 41mm version, I could definitely see guys I know wearing these 36mm versions.
Chopard has long been known for its use of ethically mined gold, and where gold appears in the Chopard Alpine Eagle 36 , it is of that type. What’s new with the Alpine Eagle is the introduction of a new proprietary alloy of stainless steel called Lucent Steel A223, which is composed partially of recycled stainless steel. Beyond the obvious ecological benefits of repurposing stainless steel in a new product, the new Lucent Steel A223 also boasts practical benefits, among them a greater hardness – to 223 Vickers, making it 50% more resistant to abrasion than conventional steel. All of the case and bracelet components, whether steel or gold, are produced in-house by Chopard.

The cases feature alternating brushed and polished surfaces with eight screws holding the bezel, case middle, and caseback together. In addition to helping to provide 100 meters of water resistance, the screws, which are grouped in pairs and located at the watch’s cardinal positions, provide a modern twist on the original St. Moritz design of 1980. If you look closely, the lines of the screw heads follow the periphery of the dial. I think it would bother me if there wasn’t an order to their orientation, and what Chopard has done here feels appropriate for a sport luxury watch.
The dials of several of the new pieces in the line feature a a reflective, rock-like texture that is reminiscent of an eagle’s iris, and it’s from these dials that the Alpine Eagle gets its distinctive name. Why not just call it St. Moritz, one might ask? After all, St. Moritz is a line that people remember and that would pretty instantly ground this new collection in Chopard’s own history. The answer is that another watch corporation, the Swatch Group, has an existing agreement in place with the municipality of St. Moritz, and Karl Friedrich Scheufele felt that for this collection, it would be best to go in a different direction and start anew. In any event, while it’s easy to see that the design of the Alpine Eagle is an evolution of the St. Moritz, there is a lot of newness here, from the use of a new steel alloy to the implementation of in-house movements.

To me, it’s the use of that new alloy that seems most exciting, especially as it’s being deployed in a watch of this design type. There is something about the faceted cases and bracelets often seen on watches of this general type, with their contrasting brushed and polished finishes, that I have long felt makes them more susceptible to showing even slight scratches. Thanks to Lucent Steel A223, one can hope that that the Alpine Eagle will continue to look great after months or years of daily wear. I definitely look forward to reviewing one of the 41mm all-steel variations when I can get my hands on one.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41

A new collection from Chopard, entering the genre of the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet: introducing the Alpine Eagle. Available in Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm and 36mm versions with case and bracelet metal options. We had the watch for a good part almost a week and used it incognito as a daily driver while the watch is under embargo. Here our honest review.
The new Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm is a reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first watch designed by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in 1980 at a tender age of only 22. Imagined and personally designed by him, the Alpine Eagle is driven by his passion for the Alps and by the lofty power of the eagle that reigns supreme there.
The St. Moritz was the first sports watch from the maison, and the first timepiece ever to be made in steel in their workshops. In 1980, it was a calculated risk. At that time the Swiss industry was just about to pull itself out of the doldrums of the quartz crisis, and the majors like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe was beginning to see success with their luxury sports steel watches – the now iconic Royal Oak and the Nautilus, both designed by the erstwhile Gerald Genta. It too followed in the path and was the maison’s best sellers for the next decade.
Since then, he has become co-president of Chopard and have gone on to establish the bond between passionate enthusiasts of the automobile world and of watchmaking mechanics with the legendary partnership in the Mille Miglia race. In 1996, he decided to restore haute horlogerie by launching the LUC project.

Karl-Friedrich tells the story that with Alpine Eagle, it seems like history is repeating itself. His son Karl-Fritz, secretly supported by his grandfather Karl, insisted that he update the St. Moritz design. He was at first reluctant, but was soon won over by his son’s strength of conviction, just as he himself had been able to win his father’s support 40 years ago.
As mentioned, we had the watch for a few days to wear as a daily beater. And in this role, it performed very well, as it is expected to. It kept excellent time, and the Lucent Steel proved its worth as it remained free from scratches, though it must be admitted that we did baby the watch when it was with us.

The level of detail and attention lavished on a watch like this by a seasoned manufacture who have full control of every single component almost guarantees that the final product is perfect. And indeed the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm is as perfect as they come.
Criticisms can be leveled at the aesthetics by some, though we feel it a rather beautiful timepiece. And we think no self respecting critical reviewer can fault the manufacturing process, or the fit and finish, or the quality of the movement supplied. So we consider this as yet another achievement on the cap of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Bravo monsieur!