Richard Mille RM 032

The Replica Richard Mille RM 032 offers hours, minutes, seconds, a 12-hour totaliser and flyback-chronograph functions, combined with an annual calendar sporting an oversized date at 12 o’clock and a month indicator (with numbers from 1 to 12) between 4 and 5 o’clock. It also possesses a running indicator, located at 3 o’clock.
“Time is the greatest luxury,” as the saying goes, and perhaps nowhere is that more true than underwater. The moment you descend from the surface, the clock starts ticking. Stay too long at depth and you risk a crippling case of the bends. Misjudge your air consumption rate and you risk running out of air. Every minute is precious when you’re on borrowed time. So it seemed only fitting to try out one of the most luxurious of diving timepieces—the Richard Mille RM 032— underwater. And there is possibly no better place to dive with it than St. Barthélemy.
Dive watches are blunt instruments, built for a singular purpose, and even the earliest ones got it right — rotating bezel, legible dial and hands, and a few fathoms of water resistance. The ones that couldn’t cut it have disappeared, weeded out of the evolutionary chain like any other ill-suited sea creature. Of course, nowadays, digital diving computers do all the underwater math for you.

Hence, relieved of the duty for which they were originally created, dive watches have become more symbols of a certain lifestyle than anything used as a tool. This has given companies a freedom to use the “dive” watch as more of guiding principle or design inspiration, and gave birth to the “luxury” dive watch. The RM 032 is one of the best examples of this relatively new species. At $145,000 in its titanium form, this is a watch aimed more for the man who owns the dive boat rather than the diver. But that doesn’t mean it can’t get wet.

Richard Mille rarely lends its watches for hands-on review. The small number the company produces as well as their high prices mean that to send a watch for a hands-on review requires a lot of insurance and precautions, tilting the risk/reward equation heavily towards the former. To lend one for three days of scuba diving seemed out of the question. But the stars aligned when I was invited to St. Barth for the annual sailing regatta series, Les Voiles de St. Barth, an event of which Richard Mille is a primary sponsor. And I was offered the chance to wear the RM 032 for the week, not to sail, but to dive.
St. Barth is a hidden diving gem, seldom mentioned among the islands to which divers beat a well-worn path around the Caribbean. But this tiny island better known for its high luxury lifestyle and celebrity-spotting holds an entirely different set of riches in the depths just off shore. With the regatta in colorful full sail in the distance, I deflated my buoyancy wing and descended into a protected marine reserve that bursts with life. On one dive, eight large stingrays lay sleeping next to each other with only their eyes protruding from the sandy bottom. A school of giant tarpon hovered in the shelter of a cave while huge lobsters, which grow unmolested, battled for supremacy, ironically, on the upturned deck of a sunken fishing trawler. This menagerie, and the spectacular undersea topography, was enough incentive to tear my eyes off of the RM 032 on my wrist for a while.
Let’s get this out of the way first—there are better pure diving watches than the RM 032. In fact, the 30-year old Citizen Aqualand I left in my hotel room would have probably been a better choice for the hard knocks of a day of diving. But the usual rules of dive watches don’t apply with the Richard Mille. This is a watch you wear diving for the sheer thrill and novelty of it, or perhaps because leaving it back on your boat is a bit more disconcerting than risking a leak or broken strap. It’s a watch someone buys for its technical marvels and then appreciates that it needn’t come off the wrist, even 100 feet deep. Richard Mille is a company that prides itself on building very high end watches that can stand up to a lot of abuse. Witness the pieces they’ve made for (and are used by) tennis legend Rafael Nadal, golfer Bubba Watson, and sprinter Yohan Blake, among others. But while diving has its own share of knocks, the biggest danger of the sport to a wristwatch is simply water pressure.
The RM 032 is rated for 30 atmospheres of pressure. Since every 10 meters you descend underwater adds another atmosphere (14.7 pounds per square inch), the watch is thus deemed safe to 300 meters. In my St. Barth diving, I came nowhere close to that depth. My deepest foray, to a shipwreck at 30 meters (100 feet), was no problem for the watch. Still, Richard Mille takes no chances. The RM 032 has an innovative crown and pusher locking mechanism that prevents accidental operation of the chronograph push-pieces and crown. A twist of the ring on the crown barrel locks both mechanisms, the current status indicated by a red or green arrow. The lock ring is similar to the mechanism found on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Compressor dive watches of a few years ago, but on the RM 032, one twist locks pushers and crown.
Similarly clever is the massive engraved bezel, which is made up of three layers held together with no less than 22 tiny splined screws and then held to the case by additional screws. This thing isn’t going anywhere without your wrist attached to it. Rather than a spring-tensioned ratcheting bezel, the RM 032’s timing ring can only be manipulated by simultaneously pressing the two opposing buttons (at zero and 30) and then only counterclockwise for true belt and suspenders security. I found this easy to do both topside and underwater though depending on the position of the bezel, it did sometimes require some contorted hand angles to press the buttons. Dried salt remnants from seawater immersion are the bane of dive bezels and the RM 032 is no exception. I had to be vigilant in my freshwater rinsing of the watch after each day of diving, lest the bezel become seized in place.
As a bottom timer, the RM 032 works as well as pretty much any other dive watch, albeit slightly less legibly, thanks to its open-worked dial and handset. Still, up close underwater, I had no issues reading off my elapsed time. This watch happens to be a flyback chronograph with a central sweep minutes hand, a feature I’ve long loved. Reading off elapsed minutes with a sweep hand instead of a tiny subdial is so intuitive, especially on a dive watch. However, given that I locked the push-pieces for diving use, I would have had to start timing the dive at the surface and remember to lock the pushers. Then I could have used the bezel to time underwater swims, safety stops, and so on. But I never used the watch in this way, simply because it was so much easier to just twist the bezel as I descended. I remember reading once a while ago that the dive chronograph was not so much created for timing dives but for the diver who likes to wear a chronograph, and that’s the RM 032.
In addition to its flyback chronograph complication, the watch also features a big date display, right at the top of the dial, welcome to my aging eyes. But it wasn’t until my second day with the watch that I realized there is another, less legible, aperture on the dial. It’s the month. This is an annual calendar, a feature almost overlooked amidst all of this watch’s other impressive tech. Set it once and you’ll only have to adjust it once per year (at the end of February), assuming you keep it wound. The month display is deliberately tiny. It’s there for setting purposes, but it’s not really needed day to day. If you can’t remember the current month, you’ve got bigger problems than bad eyesight.

Instead of a running seconds subdial, the RM 032 has a running indicator or, Indicteur de Marche, at 3:00. This function lets the wearer know his watch is operating, a feature demanded by ISO 6425, the international dive watch standard (with which this watch complies). It consists of a segmented aperture on the dial under which a rotating black and white disc spins. While some might argue this is a gimmick, it is mesmerizing to watch even when not suffering from nitrogen narcosis (the “rapture of the deep”), especially at night when the lumed disc appears to “pulse” on and off in the dark.
Around back, the movement has all the visual cues for which Richard Mille is known. Bridges and plates are made from titanium, alternately black and silver, matte finished, and held together with more splined screws for an entirely industrial, technical aesthetic. The oscillating weight that winds the two barrels is actually adjustable to provide adequate torque depending on how the watch is worn. The 18-karat white gold ribs can be set in or out to optimize winding, depending on how active your lifestyle is. Needless to say, this is best left to a watchmaker.
Dive watches are traditionally bigger than their terrestrial counterparts but the RM 032 is an absolute leviathan. At 50mm in diameter and close to 18mm tall, this is not a watch that pretends it will fit under a shirtsleeve. The titanium case of the one I wore mitigated the weight of such a sea monster, but surely the rose gold version would have allowed me to shed a few pounds of lead from my weight belt. Worn on my left wrist, the large crown tended to dig into the back of my hand a bit, a problem that went away when I transferred it to my right arm, making the watch quite comfortable to wear. The strap is an extremely high quality rubber as one might expect, along the lines of that fitted to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Divers, and fitted to the case with, you guessed it, more splined screws. This was reassuring, since had I snapped a spring bar and lost the watch to the abyss, I’m not sure I’d have surfaced to write this article.
I’ve reviewed a lot of dive watches, from Seikos to APs, but the Richard Mille RM 032 was an entirely unique experience. It requires a different mindset to consider a watch like this, not really critiquing it from a purely practical point of view or judging its value but rather viewing it almost as one would a supercar or a work of art or architecture. It’s a watch that begs one to look more closely, its details revealing themselves more with each examination. And while it would have been easy (and lazy) to fall back on clichés about rich dudes wearing this on their yachts, the RM 032 is an extreme example of why I think we like mechanical watches (and luxury dive watches!) in the first place.

In a way, since the RM 032 isn’t a watch I would ever remotely be able to own myself, it also freed me to consider it as a window into a different world than the one in which I live—not unlike scuba diving, really. And just as my time with the sharks, turtles and rays had to come to an end, so too did my days in St. Barthélemy with the Richard Mille RM 032.

Richard Mille RM 030

The Richard Mille RM 030 Replica Watches have three main characteristics: the famous three-tier barrel case, breakthrough innovative materials and display superior performance of the watch’s superior performance of the hand-refined movement, its case built with carbon.

Its sapphire crystal panel is decorated with yellow dotted hands and a power reserve display at 9 o’clock. The case is equipped with a specially designed self-winding movement equipped with an automatic detachable turret. When the spring is fully wound, the barrel will be automatically disconnected from the winding mechanism of the automatic tuner, thus avoiding excessive winding. In addition, this mechanism is also linked to the power storage display at the 9 o’clock position to provide optimal winding control.

However, this series of Richard Mille RM 030 America Limited Edition Watches have a distinctive shape, selected bright orange in the crown, pointer and time circle. The original winding, time adjustment and neutral three gears of the watch greatly reduce the impact on the operation of winding or adjusting the time. There is ON/OF indication of the state of the automatic clutch device at the 12 o’clock position of the dial.
Richard Mille RM 030. Moving along the range we come to the Richard Mille RM 030. The 030 was designed with performance in mind with its sandblasted, grade 5 titanium makeup. Such is the popularity of this watch, many different special editions has been released, helping to make it a true collectors items. Image Source
In 2011, Richard Mille presented a watch with a new technical innovation: a model called the RM 030, powered by the new automatic Caliber RMAR1, which features a so-called “declutchable” winding rotor. Now the company has released a pair of limited-edition versions of the watch to be sold exclusively in North and South America, both with prominent black elements and appropriately “dark” names: the RM 030 Black Out and the RM 030 Black Rose. As most watch savants know, the movement of an automatic wristwatch uses a small, turning rotor, activated by the motions of the watch’s wearer, to transmit energy to the winding barrel. However, it is easy to overwind the watch’s mainspring after it reaches its optimal point. Watchmakers traditionally guard against this problem by using a sliding flange that allows the spring to slip, thus preventing the movement from becoming overwound. However, this common system allows the build-up of harmful debris inside the winding barrel as the flange releases the excess energy of overwinding during longer periods, especially when the wearer is particularly active. This, in turn, can severely affect the watch’s accuracy. Richard Mille’s solution, which took four years to develop, was equipping a movement, Caliber RMAR1, with a rotor that declutches automatically, meaning that the winding barrel is automatically disconnected from the rotor’s winding mechanism at the moment the spring is fully wound. Additionally, this new mechanism is linked to the power-reserve indicator, which helps to provide ideal winding control. This allows both the movement and the oscillator to work with the best ratio of constant torque/power to provide the best chronometric performance. The first models of the Automatic RM 030 with Declutchable Rotor, which debuted at the 2011 SIHH watch fair in Geneva, were offered in titanium, white gold and rose gold cases. The two new models, now available at authorized Richard Mille retailers throughout the Americas as well as in the brand’s Beverly Hills boutique, add a new element of titanium with a black DLC (diamond-like carbon) treatment. The darker of the duo, the RM 030 Black Out, uses the black-DLC-coated titanium for its entire case. The other all-black elements include the inner bezel, the crown protector, the rubber strap with deployant buckle, and the numerals on the skeleton dial. The watch features a handful of subtle red accents, including the date aperture, the tip of the central seconds hand, and the indicators for the winding and power reserve. The RM 030 Black Rose, by contrast, uses the black-DLC titanium only for the middle caseband; the bezel and caseback are of rose gold. Here, red is also used for the date aperture, winding and power-reserve indicators, and the tip of the seconds hand, but also appears in the hour and minute hands and the crown protector. The numerals on the dial are in white. The Black Rose uses the same black rubber strap and buckle as the Black Out. Each new model is limited to 30 pieces. Prices are $95,000 for the RM 030 Black Out and $105,000 for the RM 030 Black Rose. Details on the RM 030 with Declutchable Rotor are below the photos.
Technical characteristics: Movement: Caliber RMAR1, automatic; 55-hour power reserve; frequency = 28,800 vph (4 Hz); inertia moment = 4.8 mg.cm2; angle of lift = 53°; declutchable and adjustable rotor geometry; double barrel; bridges and balance cock made of titanium; PVD-coated barrel bridges; free-sprung Glucydur balance with variable inertia; baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted and Titalyt

 treated Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date, power reserve and winding indicators Case: Black DLC titanium or rose gold with black DLC titanium caseband; dimensions = 50 mm x 42.7 mm x 13.95 mm;  torque limiting crown in titanium; sapphire-blasted and hand-drawn surfaces; interior flanges in carbon fiber; spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and the case
Moving along the range we come to the Richard Mille RM 030. The 030 was designed with performance in mind with its sandblasted, grade 5 titanium makeup. Such is the popularity of this watch, many different special editions has been released, helping to make it a true collectors items.
Depending on the edition you decide to go for, the RM 030 will set you back anywhere up to £150,000 brand new. If you are looking for something a little cheaper, try going pre-owned to get the price down to around £90,000 for the Titanium model and £110,000 for the Rose Gold. 

Richard Mille RM 33-02

With the new Replica RM 33-02, Richard Mille is launching its first round automatic watch with a case crafted from Carbon TPT.

This model is the evolution of the RM 033 originally introduced in 2011 and the RM 33-01 Automatic that followed in 2015.

The aesthetics of the original has been reinterpreted by combining the curves of a tonneau shape and the elegance of a round form with a sporty vibe coming from the design of the hollows.The 41.70 x 8.80 mm case has a tripartite construction with the front and back bezels made of Carbon TPT and the caseband in satin-finished 5N red gold.Carbon TPT is a material with a unique finish obtained by layering hundreds of sheets of carbon fibres using an automated process that changes the orientation of the weft between layers (you can read more on the hi-tech materials used by Richard Mille for its timepieces here).

The tripartite case is assembled with 14 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel, further complemented by integration of the lugs into the case’s torque screw system. Thanks to 2 Nitrile O-ring seals, the watch is water resistant to 30 metres / 100 feet.The design of the strap prolongs that of the two indentations positioned at 6 and 12 o’clock contributing to the dynamics of the case.The RM 33-02 is powered by the skeletonised RMXP1 calibre in grade-5 titanium. Regulated by a variable-inertia balance oscillating at 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), this calibre is wound by an off-centre platinum micro-rotor that makes it possible to reduce the total thickness of the movement to 2.60 mm. Its volumes are highlighted by the different finishes – microblasted, stretched and satin-finished – and the anglage, all rigorously hand made. The power reserve is 45 hours.Fixed on two rigid titanium rails positioned between the flange and the movement, the oversized 5N gold hour-markers guarantee excellent legibility.
The RM 033 was first introduced in 2011, and today the successor has been realized as the RM 33-02. The new watch shares the same objective as its predecessor: Execute an ultra-thin, round watch (most Richard Mille pieces are not round) in a very Richard Mille way. This iteration is made from Carbon TPT and red gold, and the case is sized at 41mm. The caliber RMXP1 powers the watch, showcased by sapphire crystals on the front and back. The case, dial, and finishing have been updated to make the watch more versatile and sporty. The guiding vision of the watch was to design something that still had signature Richard Mille elements, like a host of next-gen materials and numerous finishes, but that can be worn for any occasion. It’s also noteworthy that the company considers the watch suitable for both men and women; it suggests that the soft nature of rose gold and the tough properties of carbon create a duality fit for both genders to wear.
In 2013 Paul Boutros wrote a Week On The Wrist review of the Richard Mille RM 033, the watch that the RM 33-02 is based on. He was taken by the watch, and noted that its “sensuous, wrist-fitting curvature” worked on his 6.75 inch wrist. If the new RM 33-02 is a general improvement of the former design, then it may open new folks up to the brand who had not previously looked into Mille’s circular designs. As an exercise in how materials work together and an effort to simply push the envelope of material science in horology, the RM 33-2 stands out. It features bits of titanium, platinum, stainless steel, carbon fiber, red gold, and rubber. All in one watch.

The uber tech-forward aesthetic isn’t something I’m often drawn to, but when something like a Richard Mille is produced in a design that’s closer to conventional shapes and patterns that I’m accustomed to, it calls for closer examination. Watch design is generally quite conservative, and to a degree, stagnant. I’m hoping that the technology and material innovation that Richard Mille RM 33-02 is pioneering trickles down and is explored further throughout the industry. What’s most interesting is that even though it takes some serious machinery and engineering to produce materials like Titalyt and Carbon TPT, it’s still all finished by hand. There’s something romantic about that.

Richard Mille RM 033 Boutique Edition

When the name Richard Mille comes into the game, large tonneau shaped watches come to mind, with a sporty feeling and highly technical content. Not the usual ingredients for a dress-watch. Of course, some editions are less “hardcore” than the others, like for instance the RM 022 Aerodyne (a smaller, less rugged but still highly complicated watch) or the classical RM 029. However, the watch we’re about to review breaks all these codes. It’s round, it’s slim, it’s supposed to be the ‘elegant and dressy’ proposition of the brand. However, surprisingly, it remains recognizable as a Richard Mille all the way round. Let’s have a closer look at the Extra-Flat Richard Mille RM 033 Boutique Edition (Titanium & Rose Gold).
The Richard Mille RM 033 is in every aspect a RM watch but at the same time everything except a RM watch. All of the actual attributes of a Richard Mille watch are absent here but at the same time, you can easily recognize from which manufacture it comes from in a second. It doesn’t have the same shape nor the same racing inspiration, as most of the Richard Mille watches; however it does feature the recognizable look & feel of a watch made by RM… Well, this introduction might be a bit confusing but it’s actually what most of us felt when handling the Richard Mille RM 033, a unique watch in the collection but a watch totally worthy of the name Richard Mille. So, what is the Richard Mille RM 033 about?The RM 033 is a slim watch (6.30 mm), with a round case made in precious metals, a watch that at first glance looks simple, and sports only 2 hands to indicate hours and minutes, and it comes on a classic brown alligator strap without visible stitching. You’ll have to admit that this isn’t the classic definition of a watch made by RM. We’d rather use the terms tonneau-shaped case, made of carbon fibre nanotubes, with a tourbillon and a G-sensor mechanism or with an ultra-light movement made to resist to 5000g and fitted on a rubber strap. Nothing close to the one at hand. This watch isn’t a technical demonstration, it’s an elegant proposition – and that makes a world of difference. What is common to the Extra-Flat Richard Mille RM 033 and to the rest of the RM watches is the extreme attention to details, the feeling on the wrist, the spectacular finish and the search for unique and desirable movements.Let’s start with the main departure from the usual RM watch: the case. For most of us, a Richard Mille is defined by its tonneau-shaped case – like this, this, this or this (and even more here). As said, the Richard Mille RM 033 has a round case – but it’s not the only one to feature such a shape, as Richard Mille’s latest creation for example, the Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic is also round and so is the brand’s diver’s watch, the RM 028. In both case, the function guides the shape, because it’s a world-timer that requires a city-ring and a diver watch needs a rotating bezel. While aiming to create an elegant and slim watch, Richard Mille again opted for a round case . A logical choice since it difficult to mix a curved tonneau case with an ultra-slim movement and retain a slim profile for the case as well. The RM 033 measures only 6.30mm in height, and while this is rather thin, it also stays true the brand’s DNA with a case that is large and designed with a lot of masculinity.The Richard Mille RM 033 measures 45.7mm in diameter, which is admittedly is not a very common size for a dress watch. Clearly here, we’re in front a Richard Mille watch and not in front of a vintage JLC. Elegant and more understated yes, but still a RM for sure. On the other hand, the lugs are short and sloping downward. The RM watches are known for their legendary comfort and we expected to find it back here. In fact, unlike the tonneau-shaped watches from the brand, the case of the Replica Richard Mille RM 033 is not totally curved. The central part is flat and goes down toward the edges and to the lugs. It makes the watch quite large and probably balances best on a relatively large wrist. Note that this was the case here for us but this will of course depend on the wearer. As always: try before buy.The case of this Boutique Edition Richard Mille RM 033 (limited to 10 pieces) is a mix between 18k red gold for the bezel and the case back and of grade 5 titanium for the central container and the lugs. The case’s details are 100% Richard Mille, with a 3-part construction (tripartite), all the parts being linked together by 16 spline screws in grade 5 titanium – a classical feature of the RM watches. All the parts – bezel and lugs – feature large and highly polished chamfers that contrast with the straight-brushed finish of the flat surfaces. It feels RM but with a bit more luxurious and dressy approach, something that is emphasized by the use of a brown alligator strap – again not usual in the RM collection.The RM 033 is a Richard Mille, and thus, like every RM, we can’t really talk about a dial here, but more about a view on the movement partially hidden by hands. From this point of view, the Richard Mille RM 033 follows the trend of most of the timepieces created by the brand since its very beginning in 2001, with the RM 001, meaning that the dial is in fact the main-plate of the movement. Then, something that is also recurrent at RM is the use of layers of sapphire crystal to create flanges and tracks. So, in the case of the Richard Mille RM 033, we have as base, the sandblasted anthracite grey plate of the movement. On the top of that is a ring of sapphire crystal with Roman numerals printed, to create the hour track. This layer of glass only partially covers the movement and the hole in the middle isn’t round but oval, making the numerals also changing in sizes – this to break a too classical and round look.
The hands are typical to Richard Mille – meaning that they are masculine, pointy and sharp, and moreover they impress with a superb execution. The flat surface is finely brushed and the periphery is chamfered and polished, meaning that they are not “stamped” like the hands found in the vast majority of watches out there; here the hands are milled and finished by hand. The overall look of the dial remains (for a Richard Mille of course) very simple, as only 2 hands are running and no other indicator / complication can be seen. The use of Roman numerals also confirms a wish to be more elegant and refined. However, we’re at RM and clearly, this watch is highly technical, masculine and far from the traditional codes of a tuxedo watch. The face isn’t as sporty as other RM watchers and could well be associated with dress attire, while it still feels like a RM.When it comes to movements, the truth is that Richard Mille is not a manufacture like for instance Patek Philippe or Rolex, with a full integration of all the steps and an internal crafting of all the parts. Instead, Richard Mille can better be seen as designers and developers – and they are very good at that! Thus, to create movements, they rely on specialized manufactures like APRP (Audemars-Piguet Renaud Papi) and Vaucher – the best names in the business. The Replica Richard Mille RM 033 is powered by the Calibre RMXP1, a movement based on a Vaucher architecture. Vaucher is like Parmigiani owned by the Sandoz family and Hèrmes, and also creates movements for third parties (think Alexandre Meerson).Technically close to the Vaucher 5401, the base movement is highly modified to fit with the vision of RM in terms of look and design. The architecture is a slim movement (2.60mm) with an automatic winding operated by an off-center micro-rotor. The gear train and the winding-mechanism are close to the standard Vaucher movement, and the rest has been fully customized to RM wishes, starting with the skeletonized plates and bridges. The open-worked Calibre RMXP1 features bridges made of grade 5 titanium, that have been ‘wet sand-blasted’ and PVD treated. The openings are complicated and offer a complete view on the technical elements, with a modern and technical design – no old-school / engraved skeletonization here, but something very sharp and clean. The execution is super-clean, with hand-polished chamfers, beveled wheels, burnished pivots and hand-grained steel parts.unt of skeletonization is rather impressive considering the thickness of the movement and in the end it offers a nice 3D view, with a lot of depth – something you wouldn’t expect from such an extra-flat movement. Finishing is as usual perfect. The look of the movement, technical and cold, contrasts with the warmth of the case but the overall look remains understated and reasonable – again, considering it’s a Richard Mille.The Richard Mille RM 033 is an interesting watch as it brings a new idea of the RM concept, now with a round and slim case – two elements that somehow chastened the traditional technical and sporty looks of RM. Despite its different shape it respects the DNA codes implemented by the brand since 2001: bold design, technical movements, superb finishes, innovative solutions… The execution is what you can expect from a Richard Mille watch: superb. One thing remains though, the big question, if it is a proper dress watch? Probably not really, however it is a versatile one. Is it as comfortable as other RM watches? Not for us, but then again, try before you buy, and find out how it sits and balances on your wrist. Could the case be smaller? Yes, 42mm would be enough. Is the price justified? As always with such watches, there are no reasonable feelings anymore and the price comes from 2 factors: the execution and the exclusivity of the product. The Richard Mille RM 033 is like the entire RM collection

Richard Mille – RM 037 White Ceramic

The latest addition to the ever growing Richard Mille women’s collection is a new interpretation of its RM 037 model that combines, for the first time, white ceramic, mother-of-pearl and white gold.White ceramic is used for the bezel and the caseback. In particular, Replica Richard Mille uses ATZ white ceramic, where ATZ stands for Alumina Toughened Zirconia. This material is based on aluminium oxide powder tubes injected at a pressure of 2,000 bar. This high-pressure injection increases rigidity by 20-30% and reduces the material’s porosity to an absolute minimum.

Hypo-allergenic and one of the hardest materials in the world after diamond, ATZ ceramic is valued for its remarkable resistance to scratches, shocks and abrasion, as well as for its whiteness that does not change over time.The manufacturing of complex shapes like bezel and caseback of the RM 037 is very challenging and requires a lengthy, delicate machining and diamond grinding process.
The resulting highly polished surfaces well highlight the distinctive tonneau shape of the case. The caseband is crafted from white gold, with satin finished surfaces that alternate to polished pillars.Assembled with 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium, the tripartite case of the RM 037 White Ceramic measures 52.63 x 34.40 x 13.00 mm and offers water resistance up to 50 metres / 165 feet, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals.

Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-glare treatment on both sides, the dial is embellished by mother-of-pearl and diamonds. It reveals details of its in-house CRMA1 skeletonized movement, including the two skeletonised calendar discs used to display the oversize date over a white field placed under 12 o’clock. A push-button located at 4 o’clock allows one to select the winding, neutral and hand setting functions with a simple push in a manner similar to a car’s gearbox. An aperture located at 4 o’clock shows the function selected: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting). The other push button at 10 o’clock corrects the date.Beating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and visible through the sapphire crystal on the caseback, the movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours (± 10%). It has baseplate and bridges in black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium and is equipped with a variable-geometry rotor in 18-carat 5N red gold.
A patented stem-crown construction allows the integrity of the movement to be fully guaranteed and protected from external influences, since it does not use a classical crown attachment going into the depth of the movement’s heart. In fact, the stem-crown assembly is not connected to the watch movement, instead it is part of the case.

A creation of rare refinement that combines a unique design and technical excellence, the Richard Mille RM 037 White Ceramic is available exclusively at Richard Mille boutiques worldwide

Richard Mille RM 71-01

Richard Mille introduced its first in-house automatic tourbillon movement in 2018 – and against all expectations, it was housed in a watch made by a woman for women: the RM 71-01. And while this watch is about as technical and high-performance as it gets, it is simultaneously so beautiful it takes the breath away.On the RM 71-01, the brand’s usual sports and automotive themes have been replaced by inspirations from the worlds of Art Deco jewelry and tribal art. The director of Richard Mille’s ladies’ collections since 2015, Cécile Guenat, is a classically trained jeweler. And as such she has worked to distill a variety of inspirational sources into one unique design: the RM 71-01 Tourbillon Talisman is a triumph of minds, materials, and masterful watchmaking.

Richard Mille Caliber CRMT1: an automatic tourbillon movement
The RM 71-01 is the first collection overseen from A to Z by Cécile Guenat.

Three years in the making, the unique design of the RM 71-01 was set right from the beginning to be powered by a milestone movement for Richard Mille: the brand’s first in-house automatic tourbillon movement.Caliber CRMT1 is the brand’s eighth in-house caliber overall; the first in the autonomous line was Caliber CRMA1, which was developed for the RM 037, coincidentally also a ladies’ watch.

Building on Richard Mille’s now-extensive experience with making these movements, Caliber CRMT1 overwhelmingly comprises micro-blasted grade 5 skeletonized titanium components, making it not only lightweight at just eight grams, but also mechanically beautiful and technically interesting.The balance is free sprung, something usually reserved for complicated mechanisms or high-precision movements; this is not usual fare in a time-only watch destined for a feminine wrist (thank you, Richard Mille!). A free-sprung balance also offers better reliability in case of shocks.

My favorite element in this movement, though, is the gorgeous, diamond-set, variable geometry rotor, a Richard Mille specialty.This innovative technical function allows the speed of winding to be adjusted to the owner’s personal activity level. A watchmaker can easily do this by sliding the assembly’s two weights sideways into the appropriate position and then fixing them in place with the spline screws.

When the weights are closer together, the barrel winds more quickly – advantageous as this improves chronometric performance by providing more torque.

Despite the airy aura its design gives off, this tourbillon was conceived to be particularly shock-resistant. “We were committed to making the cage appear as thought it were floating independent of the base plate and bridges,” reported Salvador Arbona, the brand’s technical director for movements. “Optimization was crucial to ensuring resistance to impact during testing.”

The tourbillon cage weighs a mere 0.3 grams.

Richard Mille RM 71-01 Tourbillon Talisman: design inspiration
The dynamic movement is matched by the watch itself: the new RM 71-01 Tourbillon Talisman was launched as a collection of 10 different styles, each limited to five pieces. Each of the styles in white or red gold is set with the same stones and materials, but each of the settings is different and each of the unique designs combines mother-of-pearl, onyx, and diamonds.In designing these “talismans,” Guenat was inspired by Art Deco and primitive tribal art as well as subtle touches of Bauhaus.

“I like the fact that everyday things, including watches, are perceived as objets d’art worthy of being exalted,” Guenat said. “And nowadays jewelry and watches can also be talismans.”As to why there are 10 different designs, Guenat explained: “One day, our technical director for movements, Salvador Arbona, showed us the automatic in-house tourbillon, which had been in the works for quite a while. I was immediately smitten. When they invited me to work on it and asked if I would design its casing, I got a little carried away. Rather than sticking to a single idea, I found myself drawing several different versions.”Guenat realized that she herself likes to be given a choice, so she championed the RM 71-01 as a collection rather than just one watch. And the shape of the dials, which were already defined by a decision to “crown” the tourbillon, left a variety of options for setting and engraving. The shapes of the gem-set dials forming the center of attention whisper their inspiration to the wearer: “We come from masks, tiaras, and even ritual artifacts.”

“And despite certain concessions required by the techniques [ . . . ], the Art Deco and tribal art influences have been perfectly rendered,” Guenat points out. “While the drawing is the starting point, the work of the artisans is really what brings the watch to life.”

This exclusive collection blurs the line between watch and jewelry: the movement, dial, and case maintain a technical and visual dialogue that explodes in mechanical beauty.
This line also debuts new ostrich or grained, embossed leather straps at Richard Mille that are outfitted with black Velcro closures. Naturally, the client also still has the choice of a metal buckle set with precious stones attached to a conventional black or white alligator skin strap.

Richard Mille Releases RM 72-01 Flyback Chronograph

Using terms like “entry-level” or “mid-range” always feels a bit disingenuous when discussing Richard Mille, as even the brand’s simplest creations are technically advanced and stratospherically priced. When the time comes to replace one of Richard Mille’s mid-range staples, then, expectations are understandably high. After the recent discontinuation of the cornerstone RM 11 flyback chronograph series, fans of the marque have been left wondering what would replace it in the lineup. Now, Richard Mille has given the world a look at the first iteration of its next-generation manufacture flyback chronograph: the RM 72-01. Released with no shortage of fanfare, including a literal song and dance routine from renowned composer Thomas Roussel, choreographer Benjamin Millepied, and the London Symphony Orchestra, the Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph maintains the brand’s signature look while debuting some truly groundbreaking horological innovations.
The RM 72-01 maintains the brand’s signature curved tonneau case form held together with 20 spline screws, here sized at 38.4mm by 47.3mm. Available in grade 5 titanium, 5N red gold, black ceramic, and white ceramic variants, this familiar form is filled with detailed touches like a rubberized crown topped with a detailed red gold and black ceramic signature, along with aggressive pentagonal pushers made from a mix of red gold and black ceramic for a dramatic visual highlight. As with all Richard Mille models, the RM 72-01 offers a wide sapphire display back for an unimpeded view of the new in-house movement within, while maintaining a slightly underwhelming 30-meter water resistance.
Where the case design of the Richard Mille Replica RM 72-01 feels familiar to the brand’s signature look, the dial design innovates the skeletal Richard Mille style into new and expressive forms. Abandoning the traditional 3-6-9 o’clock three register layout of the RM 11 series chronographs, the RM 72-01 instead places its subdials at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. The result, coupled with the sweeping curves of the titanium skeleton dial bridges, looks alien, almost biological in design. The futuristic rose gold dauphine hands feel almost like thorns in this context, supported by arrow tipped chronograph and small seconds hands that have been color-coded for visual drama as much as easy reference at a glance. Three bold applied Arabic numerals at 11 o’clock, 3 o’clock, and 8 o’clock help to solidify this unorthodox, organic sense of symmetry, accented by a vertical skeleton date window at 5 o’clock.
The real gem of the Replica Richard Mille RM 72-01, however, is the movement. Richard Mille has developed an all-new manufacture movement for this series, the Calibre CRMC1 automatic flyback chronograph movement. The titanium Calibre CRMC1 is a testbed for several advancements in horology, most notably Richard Mille’s patented new oscillating pinion chronograph coupling system. By connecting the traditional column wheel engaging mechanism to a series of two oscillating pinions connected to rockers, all three chronograph hands receive torque directly from the mainspring barrel, rather than routing this energy through the base movement. The result is that timekeeping for the base movement is completely unaffected by the use of the chronograph, and the movement’s 50-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate remains steady regardless of chronograph usage. In addition, the Calibre CRMC1 boasts a shock-resistant free-sprung balance, a compact bidirectional platinum winding rotor, and a faster rotating mainspring barrel that completes its cycle once every five hours for smoother power delivery and reduced internal mainspring adhesion. Of course, the skeletonized bridges and plates featuring micro-blasted surfaces and hand-polished chamfers are a visual spectacle as much as a mechanical one. Like most of the brand’s models, Richard Mille pairs the RM 72-01 with an integrated tapering rubber strap, in either black or white.
While the aggressive bio-futuristic look may not be for everyone, the sheer mechanical prowess of the Richard Mille RM 72-01 is undeniably impressive as the brand moves forward into a new decade. The Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph is available now through authorized dealers

Richard Mille RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph

Every new creation is a world unto itself. A wholly new space born of a play between spirit and sensation. Singular yet timeless, innovative and performance-driven, the Replica RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph is poised at the intersection between Haute Horlogerie, dance and music. Movement is all. Movement of time, of bodies, of notes.

The latest ‘face’ of Richard Mille—the ultimate metronome of emotion—is a work in which technicity serves and drives elegance. It’s also an in-house creation, featuring the first flyback chronograph entirely developed and designed by the brand. An achievement crowning no less than 30 months of full-time work on the part of a dedicated team.

The new Richard Mille RM 72-01 Automatic Winding Lifestyle Flyback Chronograph keeps time, three beats to a measure, a rhythm emphasising three numbers: three, eight and eleven. Three beats for the three counters that immediately capture every eye. The hands dance in stylised harmony within their three respective timescales (blue for seconds, orange for minutes, green for hours), orchestrated by a six-column wheel.

The transfers from minutes to hours have been isolated from the seconds wheel in this flyback chronograph which incorporates a double oscillating pinion mechanism developed and patented by Richard Mille. The brand has submitted a patent application for its double-clutch chronograph. ‘This pinion, which can enmesh or withdraw from the gear teeth, has been twinned. There’s now one for the minutes and another for seconds. This system is thinner than a vertical clutch, which would be hard to fit into the heart of the movement,’ explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements. As a result, the chronograph function has little impact on the power reserve. The Calibre CRMC1 thus remains quite slim, at just 6.05 mm thick, despite comprising 425 different components.

Equipped with 24-hour and 60-minute counters positioned at 5 o’clock and 2 o’clock respectively,
it proves that a chronograph need not be limited to timing only short periods. This mechanism was entirely imagined, manufactured and assembled in Les Breuleux, at the brand’s facilities. Its sublime precision can be viewed through its openwork caseback, a hallmark of the Richard Mille brand.

This model is available in four different combinations—5N red gold, titanium and black or white ceramic. It features an automatic winding movement, with a 50-hour power reserve irrespective of how much the chronograph is activated. It is a strikingly architectural watch offering true ease of use. Embodying pure mechanics and hand finishing, it is designed for everyday use.

It was evident that renowned artists such as choreographer Benjamin Millepied and composer Thomas Roussel would be needed to fully express in technical and artistic terms, the tremendous ambitions of this project. Like Richard Mille, both of these hybrid creators have built their oeuvre, W I T H I N, on a resolutely singular vision and an obsession with perfect timing and harmonious movement.

Be it in the realm of ballet or symphonic orchestra, Benjamin Millepied and Thomas Roussel both rely on a wealth of heritage and tradition to shape modern visions of their respective arts. They fashion singular works that powerfully combine the quintessence of their disciplines and their contemporary sensibilities. And it is precisely this hybrid synthesis of science and emotion that prompted them to embrace the watchmaking brand’s new project.

For their a work titled W I T H I N, Benjamin Millepied took place behind the camera this time, at the Joshua Tree, in the heart of sand and stone. This stark mineral environment exalts the nobility and beauty of the materials Richard Mille employs for its watches. Amidst this sublime decor, the dancers unfurl a choreography of cyclical parallels that sifts and winnows the seconds, clothing time and space with intense vitality and energy.

This mysterious setting, in which humanity appears to reconnect with our origins, was a perfect source of inspiration for Thomas Roussel. After sampling the watch’s chronometrice function, the compositor built a tempo around it, a musical rhythm anchored in the raw energy and abandon of the dancers. Around a whirlwind of vitality, he weaves a music redolent of origins, repetitive and mysterious. The composition was recorded by the fifty musicians of the prestigious London Symphony Orchestra in the studio at St. Luke’s church in London.

The RM 72-01 Lifestyle In-House Chronograph encapsulates the original movement.

Richard Mille RM 71-02 Automatic Winding Tourbillon Talisman

The new RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman replica erupts in coloured stones, drawing on the untamed energy and raw glamour of the 1970s, and the timeless and indomitable freedom this decade represents. These are the years most closely identified with the rise of club culture, the roots of electronic and disco music, and an urban tribe that showed its most brilliant plumage only after sunset. Richard Mille’s Director of Creation and Development Cécile Guenat was inspired by the heightened expression of disco-era individualism, a hyper-realistic synthesis of light, sound and colour that defined slices of 1970s culture such as the throbbing beat of a hit single, the theatrical interiors of Studio 54, glittering lamé and sequin-strewn fashions.
RM 71-02 AUTOMATIC TOURBILLON TALISMAN

IN-HOUSE CALIBRE CRMT1
Automatic winding tourbillon movement

Hours, minutes and variable-geometry rotor

Power reserve : Circa 50 hours (± 10%)

Limited suite of 10 variations, each produced in an edition of just 7 pieces
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment lends great rigidity to the baseplate and the bridges, as well as the precise surface flatness essential for perfect functioning of the gear train.

The skeletonised baseplate and bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
This variable-geometry rotor has been incorporated within the in-house CRMT1 calibre, making it possible to set the rotor according to the owner’s activity level.

The setting is modified by adjusting the two moveable weights into the correct position and fixing them in place with spline screws. The inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer together; the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased and the barrel winds more slowly.
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time.

The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
MOVEMENT CHARACTERISTICS

  • Movement dimensions: 30.70 x 23.70 mm
  • Thickness: 6.20 mm
  • Number of jewels: 23
  • Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia of 7.5 mg.cm2, 50º angle of lift
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
  • Balance spring: AK 3
  • Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
    The new Replica RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection consists of ten fully gem-set models, each limited to 7 pieces, differing in their assortment of stones, their setting design and the decorative dial plate at their centre. They all contain the self-winding in-house CRMT1 tourbillon calibre with a diamond-set oscillating weight.

The 10 variations on the snow and grain settings bring together different textures, diameters and faceting, achieving freedom of expression all over the front bezel and caseband, whereas the caseback is engraved with matt bands.
The case, crafted in white gold, is composed of 75% gold, 4% silver and a high palladium content of 17% to provide white brilliance.
No less than 44 different stamping operations are required for the three main components of the case (bezel, caseband and caseback). The machine tooling process requires 2 days of adjustment for each component (bezel, caseband and caseback). The empty case involves over 255 tooling operations and more than 5 hours of glazing and polishing for the final phase. The complex shape of the case is obtained thanks to a 5-axis machine.
Each dial, a mere 0.9 mm in thickness, is handset with ornamentals and coloured stones. This component is an immense technical challenge because of the many different finishing operations required: sandblasting, polishing, setting… and all this in a very small area arranged on several levels. The dials draw on two distinct universes: one more plant-based and the other more urban.
Complementing the RM 71-02 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman collection is a full series of coloured metallic patent leather, embossed with understated botanical motifs at 12 o’clock and geometric motifs at 6 o’clock to set off their jewelled cases.

The design anticipates straps that exhibit two different tonal each, starting with one colour above the case and ending with a contrasting shade. In keeping with the underlying inspiration, the colour contrasts are paired with materials that play on light and texture. In another first in a Richard Mille collection, metallic leather treatment reinforce the impact of the coloured stones, channelling the glamour of 1970s fashion.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Dato for Hodinkee Replica Watch

We’re back at it with TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Dato for Hodinkee
Our new collaboration with the Swiss brand revives an all-time classic: Jack Heuer’s groundbreaking 1960s single sub-dial chronograph with date, the second-generation Carrera Dato ref. 3147N. A limited edition of 250 watches, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition for HODINKEE features a reworked version of the brand’s premium in-house automatic Calibre Heuer 02 placed inside the vintage-inspired 39mm “glassbox” case. Here’s why we love it.
Jack Heuer was a horological hitmaker; a bootstrapper who guided his family firm to profitability after taking over in 1962, at the spry age of 30. The designs produced by Heuer during his first decade leading the brand are now considered some of the greatest triumphs in chronograph history. And if there’s one collection that best exemplifies Heuer’s approach to watchmaking, it’s the Carrera chronograph.

First released in 1963, the Carrera served as the building block for a new generation of Heuer wristwatches. Its quick success granted the company the financial footing for further experiments in design and engineering, and in 1965, Heuer followed with the inaugural Carrera with a date function. That watch was the ref. 3147; not only was it the first Carrera with a calendar complication, but it was also one of the first chronograph wristwatches to feature the now-standard rotating date wheel display.
Nicknamed the “Dato 45” for its combination of an elapsed 45-minute register at three o’clock and a date display, this new-age chronograph featured the same clean and compact case profile of the conventional Carrera with a back-to-basics dial. You might recall this isn’t the first time we’ve drawn from the original Dato 45 for a collaborative limited edition with TAG Heuer: The 2017 Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for HODINKEE featured a nearly identical single sub-register orientation. In working with our colleagues at TAG Heuer again, we wanted to bring back the watch that helped inspire one of our favorite projects ever, in as authentic a manner as possible.
Fifty-six years later, we think the Dato’s rakish ’60s aesthetic remains just as charming as ever. Always and forever an exercise of intelligibility in design, the new Carrera Dato features a few minor updates to enhance that effect; we didn’t simply want to reproduce the original watch with TAG Heuer, but also to move it forward.
Vintage chronographs from the 1960s have long been a point of interest for in-the-know watch enthusiasts, and some of the most desirable are black-dialed examples from Heuer. An inky portal into the collector’s world, these models are typically distinguished by an N – for noir – at the end of their reference numbers and share a bold, saturated aesthetic that stands out against the more conservative look of chronographs with silver and white dials.
You’ll find absolutely no fauxtina on the new Carrera Dato’s dial. Its glossy black tone now purposefully extends out to the chapter ring, enveloping the entire dial in a consistent, compelling darkness.
Yup – the Carrera Dato is the rare vintage watch where collectors welcome the once-a-day blink of a date window with open arms. We’d even go so far as to argue that the second-generation 3147N design seen here represents the ne plus ultra of complicated minimalism in watchmaking. When people say vintage watches just look better than their modern counterparts, this is the perfect example of why.
Think about it this way: If a conventional chronograph is trying to pitch you on the novelty of measuring elapsed time, the Carrera Dato is meant to assist your day-to-day life in the most practical ways possible. Are you more likely to time something that’s under 30 minutes – like, say, grilling a steak – or are you going to track an entire 12-hour experience?
A catalyst for a new generation of in-house watchmaking at TAG Heuer, the Calibre Heuer 02 is the brand’s latest-and-greatest chronograph achievement. It was developed in the 2010s from the ground-up by TAG Heuer, whose objective was to combine all the technical specifications one might desire in a 21st-century chronograph in a single flagship movement.
To recreate the unique dial layout of the original Dato, TAG Heuer removed the Calibre Heuer 02’s typical six and nine-o’clock sub-dials and developed a brand new date disc with a fresh font. It otherwise starts with a fully integrated design that runs in 33 jewels, at a beat rate of 28,800 vph, with an impressive power reserve of up to 80 hours, all stored in a single barrel. The Calibre Heuer 02 utilizes both a column-wheel and a vertical-clutch mechanism, a premium combination found in many of today’s top chronographs. Visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the Calibre Heuer 02’s finish is simple but attractive, with crisp côtes de Genève across the mainplate and a blackened and open-worked rotor that commemorates the brand’s recent 160th anniversary.
Our latest collaboration with TAG Heuer officially brings a favorite 1960s chronograph back to life, highlighting the company’s rich history and full range of contemporary abilities in the process. A limited edition of 250 numbered pieces priced at $7,250 each, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition comes paired with a black alligator leather strap featuring a Heuer-signed deployant clasp. Half of the 250-piece run are available today with complimentary, worldwide delivery from the HODINKEE Shop, and the rest will be available at TAG Heuer brand boutiques in the United States and Japan for sale TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 Dato for Hodinkee.