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Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Wempe Signature

The Nomos Glashütte Tangente from Nomos Glashütte is without a doubt a classic. Its fine understatement and simplicity are unparalleled and ensure that the straightforward design will always be a talking point. With the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Signature Collection (Ref. 180.S3), which comes in a limited edition of only 200 watches, a special variant of the collection joins our exclusive line, and rightly so. Measuring 40.5 millimeters in diameter, the stainless-steel model appeals to both men and women. The ice-blue dial corresponds to the specific wishes of our customers and stands out beautifully on the dark-blue textile strap. In addition to the small seconds subdial, the minute scale is complemented by a date ring with dark blue details. The blued steel hands blend in absolutely harmoniously. Inside the case, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, and visible through a sapphire crystal back, there is self-winding manufacture caliber DUW 6101. The “One of 200” engraving on the back once again underscores the exclusivity of this model.
In 2018, Nomos Glashütte equipped its classic Tangente with an intelligent date display called “update.” We tested the new midnight blue model to find out whether the in-house date indicator is just an update or a genuine upgrade.

In the past, the Nomos Tangente Datum was a handwound watch with a date display in a window at 6 below the seconds subdial. If you wanted to adjust the date, you had to turn the hands forward, orbit after orbit, until the correct date appeared in the window. This was tiresome, even if you knew the trick of only moving the hands forward from about 9 p.m. to midnight and then back again. That model, which is no longer manufactured, was replaced in 2018 by a watch equipped with then-new in-house hand-wound Caliber DUW 4101. The date display is still positioned at the 6, but now it’s larger and can be adjusted both forward and backward by using the crown.

Also in 2018, Nomos presented the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update, which is now followed by an even more elegant version with a dark blue dial. The new model also features Nomos’s patented date indicator, but in a completely different design variation — there is no date window, or more accurately, 31 of them. One pair of these little windows flanks the current date on an unobtrusive scale along the edge of the dial. The date disk below the face of the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update Midnight Blue is neon green and glows in the dark.
This circle of dates eliminates the need for a conventional date window, which intrudes a bit awkwardly into the minimalist design, especially on slim, elegant watches. A conventional date window is admittedly easier to read, but the date is, after all, a secondary function, which justifies the somewhat greater effort needed to read it. For many watch fans, the advantage of not having a date window below the small seconds subdial clearly outweighs the disadvantages of reading a peripheral display. And the convenience of being able to adjust the date in either direction exceeds the functionality of established large-series calibers and the majority of manufacture movements.
Be that as it may, we can now return to the question that we posed at the beginning of this article: Is this model an update or an upgrade? The answer is definitely the latter. Nomos has significantly improved the Tangente with date display with its new generation of calibers and has achieved a more harmonious dial design by dispensing with a single large date window. Victory all along the line — it’s a genuine upgrade.

Bremont Isle of Man TT

For those of you who are not into motorbikes, a quick reminder about the Isle of Man TT race might help to understand what’s so special about it. While most races are held on closed circuits, with all due safety features imaginable, the Tourist Trophy course is notorious for multiple reasons… The first is that it takes place on public roads on the Isle of Man. One of the fastest and most impressive races in the world (all categories and vehicles included), it is also one of the most dangerous – although many competitors have died, many will, unfortunately, still risk everything to compete. As an indicator, the average speed over the entire course of the 37-mile race can reach over 130mph/210kph, as riders tear around countryside roads and through the middle of villages. As the Official Timing Partner to the event, Bremont presents a new dedicated watch.
As one of the few mainstream watchmakers based in the UK, Bremont reinforces its Britishness by partnering with military forces or sporting events associated with the United Kingdom. We’ve recently seen the Vulcan Limited Edition Monopusher, a pilot’s watch linked to the Royal Air Force. In a completely different field but still very much about the UK, Bremont now releases the Bremont Isle of Man TT Limited Edition, a racing-oriented chronograph that celebrates a genuine gladiator’s race on overly fast motorbikes. Also, Bremont continues its partnership with Peter Hickman, the fastest man ever to have completed the course at an average speed of 135mph (in 2018), once again victorious in 2022, and who will return this year as the favourite to take the trophy a third time.
The watch in question today, the Bremont Isle of Man TT Limited Edition, is a typical racing chronograph built for the job. Robust, legible and equipped with all features you’d expect from such a watch, it relies on the brand’s layered Trip-Tick construction with its modular architecture. The top of the watch consists of a steel module that integrates the lugs. It frames a central container in stripped steel coated with black PVD. The back is closed by a solid steel element, secured to the case by five screws and decorated with the Bremont Isle of Man TT circuit. It’s a powerful and sizeable watch, measuring 43mm in diameter, over 15mm in height and 49mm in length.
The Bremont Isle of Man TT Limited Edition isn’t short of features, with a bidirectional rotating bezel and a black ceramic insert with a white tachymeter scale. It frames a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating, and the watch has a comfortable water-resistance of 100m, thanks to a pair of screwed pushers and a screw-down crown.
Even though the display is classic, the dial plays on the theme of the speedometer gauge. The hands rotate at 360°, but the main hour track mimics a gauge, with a sector that runs from 08 to 04, and frames two black-rimmed sub-counters, just like the subsidiary gauges on a sports bike. All elements are gloss-black printed over a matte white base, giving a fresh look to this watch. Red accents on the central hand and chronograph hands bring the desired racing vibe, and the date at 6 o’clock doesn’t even feel out of place in this speedy context.
Powering the watch is an automatic, chronometer-certified movement – calibre BE-50AV, based on the 7750 architecture. It has a comfortable 56h power reserve. The watch is worn on a well-integrated textured rubber strap, closed by a pin buckle.

Maurice Lacroix Lidija Lijić X Pontos S Diver

As its latest new release of 2023, Maurice Lacroix is bringing back the Pontos S Diver and reviving the design of the first-generation model that was originally launched a full decade ago, in 2013. Based upon a dual-crown layout with an internal rotating bezel, the original Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was ultimately discontinued after just a few years so that the brand could focus on its popular Aikon collection of integrated bracelet sports watches. However, after receiving numerous requests to reissue this particular model, Maurice Lacroix has teamed up with world-champion free diver and friend of the brand Lidija Lijic to design an updated version of the Pontos S Diver that incorporates her feedback from real-world testing to create a new lineup of models that still retain the spirit of the original generation. At the time of the launch, the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver collection spans three different watches, including two in stainless steel and one in bronze (representing a first for the Pontos S Diver), with the bronze model being a limited edition that will be produced in a batch of 500 examples. The two stainless steel models have either black dials with orange accents or white dials with blue accents, while the limited-edition bronze version is fitted with a dark blue dial that has matching bronze/rose gold colored text and white luminous markings.
Measuring 42mm in diameter, the cases of the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver feature thin fixed bezels framing the sapphire crystals above their dials, while solid casebacks secured by six small screws help to create 300 meters of water resistance. On the right-hand side of the case resides a pair of crowns, and while the crown at 3 o’clock is signed with the Maurice Lacroix logo and is used to operate the movement, the crown located above it at 2 o’clock features an accenting ring to match the specific colorway of each watch, and it is used to turn the internal rotating timing bezel.
Regardless of their colorway, all of the dials fitted to the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver models feature the same overall design and layout with a matte grain-textured surface, baton-shaped hands and hour markers, date windows at 6 o’clock, and extra-long markers for the minute track. Similarly, all three models have internal rotating bezels that sit elevated above their dials with 60-minute elapsed time scales printed upon them. On the two stainless steel models, the minute hands are outlined to match their orange or blue accents, while the limited-edition bronze model skips this detail and opts for a completely polished handset to provide it with a slightly more elevated overall appearance.
The hands and applied hour markers on the new trio of Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver watches are finished with Super-LumiNova for added low-light visibility, and Super-LumiNova also appears on the five-minute markings of the internal bezel. That said, since the white dial variant features dark blue markings on its bezel (rather than white like the other two models), there is a strong possibility that it is only the black dial model and the limited-edition bronze version that also include the addition of a luminous bezel scale.
Powering the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver models is the brand’s Caliber ML115 automatic movement, which is essentially the Maurice Lacroix version of the Sellita SW200 that features a custom rotor and some additional decoration. As such, the Cal. ML115 offers the same familiar specs as other brand-specific versions of the base-level SW200, and it runs at a frequency of 28,800vph (4 Hz) while offering users a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. While Maurice Lacroix does produce watches with its own manufacture movements, a reliable known-quantity design such as the Cal. ML115 ultimately makes a highly practical option for a simple three-handed model such as the Pontos S Diver, especially since it is designed to live an active lifestyle and has its movement hidden behind a closed caseback.
All three of the different Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver models are supplied with multiple strap options that connect to the lugs with integrated quick-release springbars to permit easy and tool-free strap changes. The limited-edition bronze model comes with both a dark blue vintage-style leather strap and a matching dark blue rubber strap that has the “Maurice Lacroix” name embossed into its outer surface, and both strap options are completed by matching bronze pin buckles. Meanwhile, the two stainless steel models are both supplied with three different strap options, with the black dial variant accompanied by a black woven fabric strap plus two rubber straps in black and orange, while the white dial model comes with a pair of rubber straps in blue and white, plus an additional woven fabric strap in a matching shade of dark blue.
Over the past few years, Maurice Lacroix has been busy promoting its Aikon collection, the brand’s accessibly priced, game-changing luxury sports watch. Yet, Maurice Lacroix has also recently highlighted another important pillar of its collection, the more classic and versatile Pontos line. The brand now revisits its Pontos S Diver, a watch originally released in 2013. The new take on this compressor-style dive watch was released during an event in Dubrovnik in the presence of Lidija Lijic, a world-champion freediver who the brand consulted during the development phase.

MB&F Legacy Machine LMX Paris Edition

Yesterday, MB&F dropped a new piece – the MB&F LMX Paris Edition. This white gold lady was created in collaboration with Laurent Picciotto, one of MB&F’s close friends. The particularity of this watch is the amazing purple dial. Launched in 2021, the LMX pinpoints ten years of Legacy Machines, one more audacious than the other. Created in a random succession of complications and way of displaying time, the LMXs bear the wish of the unexpected. Max always says that the public and the collector must be surprised and any new piece should be different. And indeed, no one can predict the new pieces, regardless if a Legacy Machines, Horological Machines or co-creations. It is always fresh and new, with a twist… The reason why I and others love the brand so much.
I think it is impossible to love high-end horology and not instantly recognise a Legacy Machine. The specific round case with highly domed crystal and exposed mechanics is inimitable. MB&F plays with steel, titanium and gold like these metals are plasticine, and everything inside is just cubes to put one on top of the other. MB&F makes everything look so easy in watchmaking. But only M.B. & Friends know exactly that this recipe is not an easy one. The Paris Edition was manufactured in white gold, an excellent canvas for the inner purple guts. At 44 mm, the case is considered large, and the huge dome adds a lot of volume. But due to the bent lugs, clever ergonomic design, and an excellent strap and white gold folding buckle it is so nice on the wrist. It feels amazing. The feeling of having an MB&F LMX Paris Edition on the wrist is a psychological great experience that could not be possible without the obvious qualities of the watch itself.
As Jimi sings: Whatever it is, that girl put a spell on me… the dial is mesmerising to the point you forget about yourself and the surrounding world – you sink deeper and deeper into the purple sunrayed dial. The way it catches the light, it darkens and lightens with any ray or shadow and metamorphoses into that wide range of unexpected shades and colours. The LMX Paris Edition displays two time zones on two independent dials, each controllable via the corresponding crowns on each side. The power reserve doubles as a weekday indication. The hemispherical complication rotates, adding a new detail to be observed during the day.
As with any MB&F calibre, the LMX offers a grade of complication and finishes that makes any hungry-for-detail eyes satiated. But like with any drug, one cannot stop returning, again and again, to study every mm in search of news details and new feelings of satisfaction – and this you get every time. The top sides split into the independent two times displays with the huge balance wheel governing, like a generous god (taking care that everything runs as… a Swiss clock) above all. The back side splits between the three barrels, winded at once, offering an impressive seven days (168 hours) of energy.
Like any other art, the beauty and interpretation are in the eye of the beholder. “If I were to give a name to the MB&F LMX Paris Edition , I would undoubtedly call it the ‘LMX Deep Purple’ in reference to the famous 1968 rock group – this piece is definitely rock ’n’ roll!”, says Laurent Picciotto, founder of Chronopassion and owner of the MB&F LAB in Paris. But I tend to disagree. While I agree this piece is rock’n’roll, I am more inclined to the Purple Hase of Jimi Hendrix. As someone who experienced the LMX Paris Edition on the wrist, the feeling I get is more about the search for the perfect woman: mysterious but revealing, voluptuous and sensual but with a feel of purity and not vulgarity, sweetness not malicious. The Paris edition is all about that positive feeling without experiencing the negative effects of drugs. Horology at this level is a drug that can be consumed without restrictions and regrets (other than, maybe, the financial: EUR 122,000 before taxes / EUR 146,400 including VAT).
MB&F has released a new variation of its LMX timepiece in celebrating the watchmaker’s long-time partnership and friendship with Laurent Picciotto, founder of the iconic Parisian boutique, Chronopassion.

The new watch, named MB&F LMX Paris Edition , houses a striking purple sunray dial plate, complete with the model’s hallmarked three-dimensional in-house horological movement. Encased in 18k white gold, the 44mm time-teller stars a high-domed sapphire crystal top with a transparent caseback. The timepiece comes with purple-lined gray alligator straps, which are finished with tonal hand-stitching and a white gold folding buckle.

Its manual-winding movement comes with a new bespoke balance wheel in the form of a 13.4mm behemoth with inertia blocks, marking a departure from traditional screwed balances with improved accuracy. In addition, its hemispherical 7-day power reserve indicator also allows the wearer to select between two modes of counting down its remaining running time.

BREMONT VULCAN LIMITED EDITION WATCH

Tastefully executed pilot’s watches are Bremont’s forte and the British watchmaker is back at it again with the new Bremont Vulcan watch. The limited edition of 250 pieces joins their Armed Forces collection and tributes the Avro Vulcan, one of the most iconic aircrafts in the RAF’s history.

This is certainly not the first – nor will it be the last time – Bremont has honoured a historic aircraft with a commemorative timepiece. Just last year they celebrated the Lancaster Bomber and the historic Dambusters raid with the Bremont Dambuster Limited Edition watch. Before that there were the sold-out designs like the ALT1-C Griffon and the H-4 Hercules. All of these watches have been fast favourites with collectors, beautifully combining the Henley-on-Thames manufacturer’s core design codes with delightful details synonymous with the corresponding aircraft. The Bremont Vulcan Limited Edition watch is no different.
The Avro Vulcan was a jet powered, tail-less, delta-wing, high altitude strategic bomber, operated by the Royal Air Force from 1956 until 1984. It was the second of the RAF’s ‘V bombers’ and alongside the Valiant and Victor provided part of Great Britain’s nuclear deterrent force for fifteen years. It was designed to carry bombs and nuclear weapons in the event of the cold war, and with its four Rolls-Royce Olympus engines, could travel over 600 miles in the sky. It also had a range of electronic and defensive systems to protect it against enemy attack. Any aviation expert can attest to the Arvo Vulcan’s impressive capabilities and will regard it as one of the most iconic aircrafts in the RAF’s history. Now, as a long-standing partner of His Majesty’s Armed Forces, Bremont is celebrating the British aviation symbol with the launch of the Bremont Vulcan Limited Edition watch. Bremont Co-Founder Giles English comments on the Bremont Vulcan watch: “The Vulcan’s legacy as a symbol of British military power and technological innovation continues to be celebrated today, and it remains one of the most iconic aircraft of the Cold War era. As aviators ourselves, celebrating such remarkable aircraft and feats of engineering is truly inspirational and it’s fitting to incorporate these commemorative pieces within our Armed Forces Collection through Bremont’s partnership with the MoD.”
The new Bremont Vulcan watch joins the British brand’s Armed Forces watch collection which was originally launched in 2019. The series was unveiled as part of their official partnership with the Ministry of Defence, paying tribute to His Majesty’s Armed Forces, and currently consists of three core models: the Argonaut, Broadsword and Arrow. The Bremont Vulcan Limited Edition is largely modelled after the latter, opting for a 42mm case engineered from MoD hardened stainless steel with a smooth, fixed bezel, screw down crown at 3 o’clock, domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment and a 100 metre water resistant rating. Turning the Bremont Vulcan watch around reveals a special screw down stainless steel case back. It features an image of the Avro B-1 Bomber and the heraldic badge of the Royal Air Force encircled with the inscription: ‘Approved by Her Majesty’s Armed Forces. Bremont has confirmed that once the crests of His Majesty’s Armed Forces have been decreed, all case backs within Bremont’s Armed Forces collection will be updated. The dial of the Bremont Vulcan Limited Edition also features several design details related to the Arvo Vulcan aircraft, most notably on the two subsidiary dials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The small seconds at 9 o’clock reveals a two-tone 3D camouflage design inspired by the same stealthy pattern used on some of the Vulcan aircrafts, while at 3 o’clock the 30 minutes counter is adorned with a nuclear symbol to remember the arsenal carried on board. For the first time, Bremont uses cathedral-shaped hands on a watch dial with the Bremont Vulcan watch electing elegant skeletonised cathedral hands for the hours and minutes. The hands are coated in glow in the dark Superluminova and extend out to large luminous Arabic numerals, sitting beside a central chronograph seconds hand coloured in RAF blue. A boxed-shaped date window is also included at 6 o’clock. To power these functions, Bremont opts for their automatic winding BE51AE monopusher chronograph movement. It is chronometer certified for high levels of precision and offers a 56 hour power reserve.
Every Bremont Vulcan Limited Edition is delivered with a choice of two straps, both crafted from sailcloth and secured by stainless steel pin buckles. The first is a light RAF blue strap and the second features a camouflage pattern to match the small seconds subsidiary dial. With every order, you’ll also receive a pair of silver cufflinks moulded into the shape of the Arvo Vulcan aircraft. In typical Bremont fashion, the cufflinks incorporate a small part of aluminium sourced from the original airframe of the Avro Vulcan XH558 ‘Spirit of Great Britain’, the final Vulcan in military service.

U-Boat Sommerso 46

U-BOAT expands their Classic collection with the new “ U-BOAT Sommerso” models, watches designed for the needs of those who love diving.

Three models with 46 mm cases in steel completely hand finished. The U-BOAT Sommerso is renewed in version 2.0, by enriching its dial with new details. Two other versions, one with a dial with blue superluminova indexes, another with an ultra-resistant black case treated with DLC, (Diamond like Carbon – innovative coating, based on carbon, that guarantees a high hardness and resistance to scratches) with a black dial and beige indexes also in superluminova. All the versions are characterized by a special 24h counter, anti-glare sapphire crystal, integrated and calibrated lens for a better reading of the date.
U-Boat is an Italian watch brand based in Tuscany. Designed by Italo Fontana, these unique remarkable timepieces combine the finest Italian craftsmanship with the designer’s exceptional vision. Inspired by the atmosphere and landscape of the region, each watch has a similar distinct tone making it stand out from the rest.

Created in order to withstand the demands of near expert level diving, the timepieces from these collections do not compromise on design. As sophisticated as practical, U-BOAT Sommerso rugged diver’s watches are inspired by the highly technical instruments of the past.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz

Maurice Lacroix issued the AIKON Master Grand Date in four new dial colours, each limited to just 50 pieces for this summer.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz has launched the sportier AIKON collection in 2016 as a direct descendant of the Calypso line from the ‘90s. The initial quartz collection was extended with a skeletonised automatic reference in 2018, followed by the time-only AIKON Automatic, the same year.

In 2021, the flagship of the collection became the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Quartz Grand Date which combined the urban AIKON design and the signatures of the Masterpiece collection, such as the off-centred time indication and the open-worked dial. The large date was placed at 10 o’clock, operated by the in-house movement. The beating balance wheel, the swinging pallet fork and the escapement wheel can be enjoyed at 8 o’clock, while the rest of the 3Hz automatic Calibre ML331 through the sapphire case back. The brushed and polished surfaces alternated on the 45mm steel case.

The same year Maurice Lacroix presented the piece in a more technical and 47mm large carbon fibre case and DLC coated bridges with orange dial and strap for the Only Watch auction. The technical theme continued on last November’s Black edition in a 45mm diameter.

The AIKON Master Grand Date novelties follow the technical look and the collection’s attraction to vivid colours (like at the AIKON #tide line or the AIKON Skeleton TimeForArt). The Technicolour is offered in a choice of four new dial colours: blue, green, orange and yellow, combined with the black DLC coated case. Although the 45mm diameter is on the larger side, the matte black case cheats perception optically.

The orange-black combo returns as the case and the movement’s top plate remains DLC-coated black, while on one novelty the dial, the ring of the open-worked seconds indication and the rubber strap boasts in orange. On the other, neon green and the red tip of the second hand pop out from the black background. The watch is supplied with two rubber straps: one matches the dial and the other is presented in black to complement the case. Although the 45mm diameter is on the larger side, the matte black case cheats perception optically. Maurice Lacroix brought a nice amount of novelties to this year’s Geneva Watch Days – new releases in the classic Pontos collection, a new sized Aikon Automatic and a very fun addition to the Aikon #Tide line. We selected two favourites. Maurice Lacroix presented bright and funky watches, the AIKON #tide line. Moreover its concept contributes to making the oceans a little cleaner, thanks to a revolutionary technology that converts discarded plastic waste into watches. TimeForArt is the first-ever benefit watch auction to support contemporary art, initiated by New York non-profit Swiss Institute. The auction will be part of the Phillips ‘New York Watch Auction: SEVEN’.

HYT Conical Tourbillon

The Neuchâtel company’s recent release, the HYT Conical Tourbillon, fulfills their decade-old promise to bring high-end watchmaking into the future with its hypnotic and technical design. The watch is a product of the collaboration between science and skilled watchmakers, featuring a conical tourbillon that improves the stability and performance of the timepiece. Master watchmaker Eric Coudray drew inspiration from Walter Prendel’s inclined balance tourbillon of 1928 to create this unique watch. The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visually captivating and technically impressive timepiece that showcases the Swiss brand’s exclusive mechanical fluidic technology and their extraordinary vision of watchmaking. What is the HYT Conical Tourbillon watch and what makes it unique?

The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a contemporary timepiece designed by HYT, an independent Swiss watchmaking brand that has been pushing the boundaries of high-end contemporary watchmaking for over 10 years. It is the most accomplished of the watches designed by HYT and represents the brand’s unique approach to watchmaking. The watch is both animated and sensual thanks to the retrograde fluid hour markers and the turning of the conical tourbillon with its dynamic movements. The watch showcases a return to the purity of the brand’s creative sources and is a full expression of its singular character. The watch is both contemporary and refined, combining the most refined work of the Swiss watchmaking sector’s master craftsmen. Both the front and back of the watch feature scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, providing protection and durability. The Laco 2S automatic movement, based on the Miyota 82S0, is visible through the transparent crystal case back. The stop-seconds function ensures precise time setting. Laco offers the option to upgrade to the Laco 31 caliber (base: Miyota 8315) for all models in the series, featuring a power reserve of over 60 hours and thermally blued screws. The watch features a hand-wound mechanical movement beating at a frequency of 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz) and a suspended tourbillon movement with a spring-balance inclined at 30 degrees to horizontal, the escape wheel at 15 degrees, and a pallet at 23 degrees. The suspended tourbillon movement is a bold technical achievement that takes its inspiration directly from the works of German watchmaker Walter Prendel and his inclined balance tourbillon. The conical tourbillon is a revision and reinterpretation of Prendel’s oblique tourbillon. Master watchmaker Eric Coudray, familiar with the complex works of Walter Prendel, decided to continue this work to improve the tourbillon, using this oblique tourbillon as his base.
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon is a hypnotic, technical response to the promise made by the Neuchâtel company ten years ago: to take high-end watchmaking into the future. A symbiosis between science and the expertise of the finest watchmakers, this mechanical fluidic watch is fitted with a conical tourbillon. Created by master watchmaker Eric Coudray, who took inspiration from the unique inclined balance tourbillon developed by Walter Prendel in 1928, it provides a new solution to improve the stability and performance of the tourbillon.
At ten years old, your temperament is fully-formed and the essentials of your character are set. It is an age of boldness and enthusiasm. At ten years old, a child develops a powerful energy which feeds their desire for growth and development. But it is also a phase which allows for more structured experimentation.

Based on this philosophy, the new HYT Conical Tourbillon watch is a return to the purity of the brand’s creative sources, a full expression of its singular character.

It is both animated and sensual thanks to the dual movement effect created by the retrograde fluid hour markers and the turning of the conical tourbillon with its dynamic movements. The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a new form of life, symbolised by the central mechanism at its heart.

On the wrist, the seductive lines and finish of the HYT Conical Tourbillon are beautifully showcased. The piece symbolises a contemporary approach to watch design perfectly combined with the most refined work of the Swiss watchmaking sector’s master craftsmen. A careful eye will spot the sand-blasted and satinised finish of the 701 TC calibre, a hand-wound mechanical movement beating at a frequency of 21,600 vib/h (3 Hz).

More discerning lovers of high-end watchmaking will be interested in the specifications of the suspended tourbillon movement with a spring-balance inclined at 30 degrees to horizontal, the escape wheel at 15 degrees, and a pallet at 23 degrees. This bold technical achievement takes its inspiration directly from the works of German watchmaker Walter Prendel and his inclined balance tourbillon.

Perrelet Lab Peripheral 3-Hands & Date

After the launch of the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, which marked the introduction of a new watch collection featuring a casual-chic style, Swiss brand Perrelet expands this family with a new model displaying the useful date function at 6 o’clock.

Perrelet is well-known for its different interpretations of dynamic dials which boast functional or decorative rotors on the front of the watch. And the new LAB Peripheral collection also respects this famous hallmark that identifies all of the Bienne-based company’s creations. Flagship of the “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is its innovative peripheral rotor. More discreet and sober, visible on the dial-side without compromising the vision of time, this refined version of the oscillating weight dances gracefully underneath the hour indices around the rim of its display according to the rhythm of the owner’s wrist.

The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” comes in a 42 mm x 42mm cushion-shaped case in polished/brushed stainless steel or with an eye-catching razor grey PVD coating, decorated with embossed rectangles on the case-band and water resistant to 5 ATM. Framed by a polished octagonal bezel with satin-brushed profile, its clean dial is offered in two colour variations: black and silver. Its multilayer structure adds depth to the display further enhanced by the different decorations: the vertical lines of the central disc are in relief and surrounded by a matt sandblasted ring, the luminescent indices are applied to the centre and suspended towards the minute flange, the oscillating weight is embellished with engraved oblique grooves. The end result is an elegant, harmonious and well-proportioned dial. The oscillating mass observable on the dial-side is made possible thanks to the clever in-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre P- 411, beating at 28.800 vibrations per hour and offering 42-hour of power reserve. The rotor on ball bearings, a 180° plate’s segment, is fixed to a wheel with toothing inside, which engages with a pinion on the outer rim of the movement and transmits the energy to the gear-train winding the mainspring. The case back sapphire crystal offers view of the movement’s rhodium-plated bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing, 3N gold engravings and its balance wheel in action. The “LAB Peripheral 3-Hands & Date” is completed by a black calf leather strap with alligator pattern and white stitching, closed by a folding buckle customised with the brand’s logo.
Perrelet continues to perpetuate the legacy of master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet, the brand’s founder dating back to 1777 and the precursor of the self-winding movement. The Swiss manufacture is synonymous with automatic movements that it interprets in an original way, creating exclusive contemporary timepieces with a strong identity, immediately recognizable to the brand. After recently launching the “LAB Peripheral Dual Time Big Date”, the watch that marks the introduction of the new brand’s collection featuring a casual-chic style, Perrelet expands this family with a time-only model, enriched with the useful date function at 6 o’clock: Perrelet Lab Peripheral 3-Hands & Date.

Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Diamond

The special edition models created by Jacob and Co. commemorate the significance of a project using high-end uniquely designed timepieces equipped with first-class movement technology. A movie series as well-known as The Godfather calls for a design that will stand out, so others around know you mean business. Jacob and Co. is proud to announce the release of its new addition to the Opera Godfather Collection. The most noticeable difference of the newly styled 49mm Opera is the diamond-set case and dial. A triple-axis tourbillon powers the watch and features a two-cylinder Swiss music box, which plays the theme song from The Godfather on demand. As if the theme song couldn’t give away the movie, a godfather figurine and logo are incorporated into the dial. A sleek black large-scale alligator leather strap makes for a comfortable wear while tying the dark design together. The Opera God Father Diamond timepiece by Jacob and Co. was styled exactly how the notorious boss of an Italian gang would want it, with tons of gold and diamonds.
The Opera Godfather Minute Repeater uses a series of artistic details and high watchmaking complications to tell the story of one of the greatest films ever made, Francis Ford Coppola’s The Godfather. It was created in a novel partnership with Paramount Pictures, the production and distribution company of the famous feature film.

Powered by its exclusive, 758-component JCFM07 movement, the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater features a bespoke two-cylinder music box that plays the first 120 notes of The Godfather theme and a minute repeater. In addition, it relies on a spectacular triple-axis gravitational tourbillon and a time display subdial to represent Jacob & Co’s cutting-edge watchmaking expertise. There has never been a watch with this combination of complications.

Artistic details include the film’s iconic logo on a black painted 18K gold plate, and a a hand-painted replica of a piano with a portrait of the Godfather himself. For the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater Diamond Barrels, the two cylinders are made of 18K rose gold and paved with 666 brilliant round diamonds.

These artistic flourishes and high watchmaking complications are combined in a well-balanced dial display that presents the epic crime story in glorious sight and sound. Like the film, the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater is a timeless work of high technical expertise and fine art. The creation of the Opera Godfather marks the first time Paramount has partnered with a watch company in this way and it was a challenge to secure the rights. Once the deal was done, however, Paramount agreed to license the music and the Godfather logo to Jacob & Co.
The tourbillon was originally invented to improve accuracy of a pocket watch by countering the effects of gravity. The Opera Godfather brings this more than 220-year-old invention to the same levels of refinement and complexity that its musical box complication and dial assembly represent.

Composed of a total of 104 components that altogether weigh just 1.15 grams, the triple-axis tourbillon of the Opera Godfather is at the forefront of modern watchmaking. With an average component weight of just 0.011 grams (0.00039 ounces), it is a spectacular constellation of barely visible parts that, when assembled and fine-tuned expertly, fulfill the primary duty of a precious timepiece: accurate timekeeping.

The triple-axis tourbillon’s delicately detailed assembly rotates on three axes simultaneously: a full rotation on the 1st axis takes 180 seconds, on the 2nd axis 48 seconds, and on the third axis 24 seconds to complete. This makes for a bold new look at how tourbillons can function, when engineered with cutting-edge, ultra-modern technologies and timeless horological heritage in mind.
Long regarded the most complicated of movements, the minute repeater was the height of luxury when it was first introduced in the 1600s, the equivalent of a church clock in a timepiece. Getting the minute repeater perfect, from precision and tonal standpoints, is a huge challenge, and that’s why only a handful of brands include minute repeaters in their collections.

The minute repeater in the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater uses two hammers to strike exposed circular gongs to sound out the hours, the quarters of hours, and the minutes. In the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater, the gongs circle above the dial, visible through the large sapphire crystal and rose gold case. This voluminous case enhances the clarity, tone, and richness of the sound of the gongs.

The minute repeater is actuated with a slide at 9 o’clock and the music is started by pressing the pusher at 8 o’clock. The watch is wound via the violin-shaped handle at 3 o’clock, and set using an 18K gold lift-out bow on the case back. The power reserve for the movement and the music box function are separate – the watch has a power reserve of 44 hours, while the music can be played three times before you must wind it again. Chiming mechanisms represent some of the most complicated and challenging haute horlogerie complications. The Opera Godfather brings the rarest type of audible complications to front: a musical box, engineered into the strict constraints of a wristwatch and designed to play the iconic theme music of The Godfather, recreated into this purely mechanical format in official partnership with Paramount Pictures.

A single press on the pusher at the 10 o’clock position of the case – crafted from 18K Rose Gold – initiates the chiming mechanism and sets more than 700 components into motion. A pair of uniquely crafted cylinders begin to rotate at a finely calculated tempo, brushing their 30 teeth against a pair of combs to evoke a total of 120 notes of the original movie theme. Unlike the other timepieces in the Opera Collection, the dial is static, the skeletonized hour and minute dial appearing to float in the center of the timepiece. Managing the power of the watch is critical, as now the timepiece adds a minute repeater, so the 758-component movement must be robust enough to power the triple-axis tourbillon, the Swiss music box, and the minute repeater, while also being precise enough to manage the timekeeping and the coordination with the chiming of the minute repeater.

The Opera Godfather Minute Repeater adds yet another Grand Complication to the Jacob & Co. collection. Combining the Swiss Music Box with a triple-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater just might be an offer you can’t refuse.