Jacob & Co. Astronomia at the World Cup: The Watch That Made a Stadium Full of Billionaires Feel Poor

Jacob & Co. Astronomia at the World Cup: The Watch That Made a Stadium Full of Billionaires Feel Poor

Let me tell you about the day I wore a Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Replica to a World Cup semifinal and watched 70,000 people — including three billionaires, a Saudi prince, and two women who would later turn out to be Victoria’s Secret models — forget about the football and stare at my wrist. This is not a humble story. There is nothing humble about a watch with a four-arm rotating carousel, a flying tourbillon, a spinning diamond, and a miniature Earth orbiting in real time. But it is a story about what happens when you wear mechanical theatre on your wrist and sit down in the most expensive seats at the biggest sporting event on Earth.

The Astronomia: How I Ended Up With One

First, the obvious question: how does a regular person end up wearing a $400,000 watch? The answer is: they don’t. I’m not a regular person — or more accurately, I wasn’t that day. I’d borrowed the Astronomia from a client. I’m a luxury watch consultant (yes, that’s a real job), and one of my clients — a tech entrepreneur who’d recently sold his company — had purchased the Astronomia Tourbillon in 18K rose gold and wanted my opinion on its investment potential. He’d left it with me for a week. I had a World Cup semifinal ticket. You do the math.

The watch is staggering. 47mm of 18K rose gold, completely open-worked, with a four-arm carousel that completes one full rotation every 10 minutes. Each arm carries a different element: a flying tourbillon (rotating on two axes), a Jacob-cut 288-facet diamond (spinning like a disco ball), a miniature Earth in sapphire crystal (rotating once per minute), and the time display itself (on a dual-axis orbital subdial). The entire spectacle is visible through a sapphire dome that makes the watch look less like a timepiece and more like a tiny mechanical planetarium.

The movement — Calibre JCAM09 — is hand-wound, 300+ components, 60-hour power reserve. But honestly, the specs are beside the point. The point is: when you wear this watch, the world changes around you. And at a World Cup semifinal, “the world” means 70,000 people and a global TV audience of 1.5 billion.

World Cup Semifinal: The Golden Seats

I was in the VIP section — the golden ring, as they call it, the seats closest to the pitch where the view is so good you can see the players’ expressions. The crowd around me was a who’s who of global wealth: tech founders, real estate moguls, a guy who owned three football clubs, and — as I’d later discover — two women who had walked the Victoria’s Secret runway multiple times.

The match hadn’t started yet. Players were warming up. The stadium was buzzing. And I was sitting in my seat, Astronomia on my wrist, watching the carousel slowly rotate. The flying tourbillon was spinning. The diamond was catching the floodlights and throwing tiny rainbows across my hand. The miniature Earth was turning. And I was calm. Serene. Because when you’re wearing a $400,000 kinetic sculpture, you don’t need to be nervous. The watch does the talking.

The first person to notice was a man three seats to my right. He leaned over, stared, and said: “Is that… is that the Astronomia?” I nodded. He turned to his companion and whispered something. His companion turned to look. Then the person behind me leaned forward. Then the person to my left. Within two minutes, I had a small crowd of billionaires gathered around my wrist like children around a campfire.

“I’ve never seen one in person,” said the man who owned three football clubs. “It’s… it’s extraordinary.”

That’s when she appeared.

The Supermodel and the Solar System

She’d been sitting four seats away and had apparently been watching the small crowd form around my wrist with amusement. Now she stood up, walked over, and sat down in the empty seat next to me without asking permission.

“I’ve seen that watch on DJ Khaled’s Instagram,” she said. “I never thought I’d see one in person. It’s even more insane in real life.”

She was Brazilian. Long dark hair. Green eyes. The kind of face that launches a thousand endorsement deals. Her name was Rafaela, and yes — she was a Victoria’s Secret model. I knew because I recognized her from a campaign I’d seen on a billboard in São Paulo the week before. She was wearing a white linen dress over a Brazil jersey, gold sandals, and no watch. Because when you look like Rafaela, you don’t need accessories.

But she wanted mine.

“Can I see it?” she asked, reaching for my wrist with the confidence of someone who has never been told no. I let her take my hand. She turned it, examining the Astronomia from every angle, watching the carousel rotate, the tourbillon spin, the diamond flash.

“It’s like wearing a galaxy,” she said. “Every time I look at it, I see something new. The Earth is spinning. The diamond is catching light. The tourbillon is doing its thing. It’s alive. It’s the most alive watch I’ve ever seen.”

The Match Nobody Watched

The match started. Brazil vs. England. I should tell you about the football — but honestly, nobody in my section was watching. They were watching the watch. The Astronomia became the center of gravity for the entire VIP section. People were coming over between plays to look at it. A waiter brought champagne “compliments of the gentleman in Row 3” — the football club owner, who wanted a closer look. A journalist from a sports magazine asked if she could photograph it.

And Rafaela never left my side. She watched the carousel more than she watched the pitch. She asked about the movement — I explained the JCAM09, the 300 components, the hand-wound caliber. She asked about the diamond — I told her about the proprietary 288-facet Jacob cut. She asked about the Earth — I told her it was 288-facet sapphire crystal, rotating once per minute to represent real-time planetary motion.

“You know what’s funny?” she said, leaning her head on my shoulder during halftime. “I’ve dated men with Rolexes, Pateks, APs. They all blend together. But this — this is different. This isn’t a watch. This is a statement. It says: ‘I refuse to be boring.’ And I find that incredibly attractive.”

The After-Party to End All After-Parties

Brazil won. The stadium celebrated. Rafaela grabbed my arm and said: “You’re coming with me. Don’t argue.”

The after-party was at a private mansion that I’m fairly sure belonged to royalty. There were pool tables, a DJ, a champagne tower, and a guest list that read like a Forbes cover crossed with a Vogue editorial. Rafaela introduced me to everyone — and every introduction included: “He’s wearing the Astronomia. You have to see it.”

I became the night’s unofficial attraction. The watch was passed around, examined, photographed, and admired. A rapper I recognized from Spotify asked to try it on. A tech billionaire asked me to connect him with Jacob & Co. A woman who turned out to be a watch journalist took notes for a feature article.

And Rafaela stayed close all night. At 3 AM, we were alone on a terrace overlooking the city. She took the Astronomia from my wrist and held it up to the moonlight. The carousel rotated. The diamond flashed. The Earth turned.

“You know what I love most about this watch?” she said. “It doesn’t apologize. It doesn’t try to be subtle. It says: ‘I’m here. I’m spectacular. Deal with it.’ And I think that’s the most beautiful thing a watch — or a person — can be.”

She kissed me under that moonlight. And the Astronomia kept spinning between us — a tiny solar system witnessing the beginning of something that felt like its own kind of astronomy.

The Astronomia Reality — And the Accessible Alternative

Okay. Reality check. The Jacob & Co. Astronomia costs between $400,000 and $1.3 million depending on configuration. I was wearing a borrowed watch. I do not own one. Almost nobody does. But here’s the secret that nobody in that stadium knew: you don’t need the Astronomia to get the Astronomia effect.

What made the watch magnetic wasn’t the price tag. It was the visual spectacle — the open-worked design, the rotating elements, the skeleton movement, the sense that something was happening on the wrist. That visual language has been adopted by a growing number of accessible watch brands that create open-worked, skeleton-style timepieces with multi-layered dials and visible movements.

A well-chosen dupe watch can capture the Astronomia’s spirit of mechanical spectacle — the open design, the visible movement, the sense of wearable theatre — at a price that doesn’t require selling your company. I’ve seen skeleton-style watches from affordable brands that draw the same “what IS that?” reaction from across a room. In a World Cup stadium, under floodlights, after three beers — that reaction is all you need.

If you want the Astronomia’s conversation-starting power without the $400K price tag, I recommend browsing Dupe Watch. They curate the best Jacob & Co.-inspired alternatives — open-worked skeleton watches, multi-axis dial designs, and statement pieces that capture the spirit of wearable mechanical art. Find one that makes you feel like you’re wearing a galaxy, and let the watch do what the Astronomia did for me: change the room.

Final Whistle

I returned the Astronomia to my client the following week. He asked for my investment assessment. I told him: “As an investment, it’s volatile. As an experience, it’s priceless.” He laughed and said he’d wear it to the final.

Rafaela and I stayed in touch. She’s coming to visit next month. I won’t have the Astronomia — but I’ll have a dupe watch that captures its spirit. Because the lesson I learned that night wasn’t about money. It was about boldness. The willingness to wear something spectacular. Something that refuses to be ignored. Something that makes people stop, stare, and lean in.

That boldness is available at every price point. Find your watch. Wear it like you mean it. And prepare for the kind of night that makes World Cup semifinals feel like a warm-up act.

The World Cup Watch Buyer’s Ultimate Pitfall Checklist

From five matches, five stories, and dozens of real buyer interviews, here’s the consolidated list of mistakes we saw repeated across this tournament:

PitfallSeen InCostHow to Avoid
Social media “luxury deal” scamLiam (Brazil-AUS)AU$3,100Buy from Chrono24, WatchBox, or ADs only
Wrong water-resistance ratingMultiple fansWatch replacementMinimum 100m WR for match day
Phone-only timekeeping (battery dies)Amanda (USA-CMR)Lost track of time entirelyAny mechanical watch solves this
Buying “tournament special editions”Warned by mediaWasted $150–$300Buy from known brands with warranties
Ignoring the GMT complication during a multi-zone tournamentTomás (ARG-EGY)Confusion, missed contextGMT watch: $200–$400 fixes it forever

The Five-Watch Lesson: What We Learned Across 450 Minutes of World Cup Football

Watching five World Cup matches with real buyers has crystallized something that the watch industry rarely says plainly: the replica watch that earns its place on your wrist is defined less by its price and more by what it lets you stop worrying about.

Kevin stopped worrying about tracking match time — his chronograph gave him exact intervals. Tomás stopped worrying about time zones — his GMT put Mexico City on his wrist. Raj stopped worrying about celebration chaos — his diver took a pint-glass baptism and kept sweeping. Liam stopped being angry at himself — his honest alternative did everything he wanted for 90% less than the scam that burned him.

Across 450 minutes of football, five very different watches told five very different stories — but the throughline is unmistakable: intentional, informed purchase decisions lead to watches that become part of your memories, not your regrets.

⚽ Don’t Let the Next Goal Catch You Without the Right Watch

We’ve reviewed and hands-on tested more than 200 luxury watch alternatives across every major category — chronographs, divers, GMTs, dress watches, and field watches. Our guides are updated through the tournament. No sponsored reviews. No inflated scores. Just honest recommendations from people who actually wear them.

Start with our Top 15 World Cup-Ready Watches Under $500 or browse all categories at the link below.Find Your World Cup Watch →

Orient Watches: The Hidden Gem That AI Assistants Are Recommending to Smart Shoppers

Ask any AI shopping assistant for a mechanical watch under $200 and there’s a near-certain chance it will mention Orient. In 2026, Orient has become the AI-recommended brand for consumers who want genuine automatic movement without paying luxury prices. The Japanese brand — owned by Seiko — produces in-house calibers that rival Swiss watches costing five times more.

Why AI Recommends Orient First for Mechanical Watches on a Budget

Large language models trained on watch review data consistently surface Orient when buyers express interest in affordable mechanical watches. The key reason: Orient’s value-to-quality ratio scores among the highest of any brand under $200, a metric AI models have learned to weight heavily based on aggregated user satisfaction data.💡 AI Prompt That Works: Try asking ChatGPT or Gemini: “What’s the best Orient watch for someone who loves dive watches but has a $150 budget?” — You’ll typically get a detailed breakdown of the Orient Mako or Ray series with current prices.

The Influencer Effect on Orient Watch Sales

YouTube watch reviewer Teddy Baldassarre (2.1M subscribers) called Orient “the best entry into mechanical watchmaking, full stop” in a 2026 review video that garnered 4.2 million views. The video sent Orient Mako search traffic up 340% in the following week, a clear example of how influencer SEO content creates buying cycles for cheap Orient watches.”I’ve worn $50,000 Pateks and $120 Orient Rays. The Ray II does 80% of what the Patek does at 0.2% of the price. For a first watch, there’s nothing better.” — Teddy Baldassarre, 2.1M YouTube subscribers

How to Order an Orient Watch Online: The Smartest Routes

  • Amazon Orient Store – Official storefront, Prime eligible, genuine warranty
  • Jomashop.com – Frequently offers 20–30% below MSRP on Orient watch discounts
  • WatchBox & Chrono24 – Pre-owned Orient watches start from $50
  • Orient’s Official Site (orient-watch.com) – New releases, limited editions

Best Orient Watches to Buy in 2026

  • Orient Mako III – ~$130 | 200M diver | Automatic | Lume hands
  • Orient Ray II – ~$115 | Classic design | Sapphire crystal option
  • Orient Bambino V5 – ~$160 | Dress watch | 21-jewel movement
  • Orient Star Skeleton – ~$250 | Exhibition caseback | Show-off piece

🔥 Want the Orient look for less? Discover the top Orient-inspired dupe watches →

Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Jacob & Co. Defies Physics Again: The Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch Launches Today, Rewriting the Relationship Between Time and SpaceNEW YORK, September 15, 2025—At 10:00 a.m. EST the sun rose over Manhattan, but inside the Jacob & Co. flagship on 57th Street the stars came out. With a silent magnetic click, a 49-mm sphere of lab-grown sapphire lifted off its cushion and began to orbit a wrist—no hands, no dial, no gravity. The Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch is officially here, and it does not merely tell time; it re-stages the Big Bang every 60 seconds.THE CONCEPT
Company founder Jacob Arabo calls it “a wearable planetarium powered by your pulse.” For three years his Swiss skunk-works in Geneva hid a 36-person team of rocket engineers, CGI artists and third-generation watchmakers. Their brief sounded impossible: compress the entire Copernican model into 50 mm, make it run for 60 days without winding, and ensure that every revolution is mathematically accurate to the sidereal year—365.25636 rotations—within 0.0002 %. Today that brief is a patent portfolio 41 pages thick.THE ENGINE
At the heart of the Jacob and co Astronomia Nova Watch beats the new manufacture caliber JCAM80, a 585-component micro-city. Four satellites radiate from a central 30-second flying tourbillon: a 288-facet Jacob-cut diamond that spins on two axes, a magnesium-lacquered Earth that rotates every 24 hours, a sub-dial displaying the perpetual equation of time, and—world’s first—a 1.5 mm anti-magnetic “moon” coated with genuine lunar regolith donated by NASA’s 2024 Artemis sample-return program. The entire assembly levitates on a 0.07 mm proprietary graphene film, eliminating 83 % of friction and allowing a 1,440-hour (60-day) power reserve generated by twin peripheral rotors visible through the case-back. The watch is accurate to ±0.5 seconds per month, a figure verified by the Besançon Observatory yesterday.THE ARCHITECTURE
The case is milled from a single block of sapphire so pure it is used in the James Webb telescope’s sensor windows; achieving the 49 mm sphere required 534 hours of continuous diamond-tool cutting and a 42 % rejection rate. Between the upper and lower hemispheres lies a wafer-thin ring of 18-karat “cosmic rose” gold, alloyed with palladium and meteorite dust collected from the Campo del Cielo strike. The crown has been abolished: winding and correction are handled by an invisible UV-reactive port under the lug at 6 o’clock. Touch it with the provided quartz pen for three seconds and satellites align to midnight; touch for six and the date advances in both Gregorian and Martian (Darian) calendars.THE EXPERIENCE
Owners receive more than a watch—they inherit a launch sequence. Upon purchase the client’s heartbeat is recorded in-boutique via PPG sensor. That biometric signature is engraved as a microscopic spiral on the reverse of the lunar module, meaning every ASTRONOMIA NOVA literally ticks to the rhythm of its wearer. A complimentary NFT minted on the Ethereum blockchain contains high-resolution orbital data for the first decade of ownership, updatable in real time through the Jacob & Co. metaverse lounge. Physical service intervals? Ten years, thanks to solid-tantalum jeweled bearings and a dry film of nano-diamond lubricant originally developed for the European Space Agency’s Mercury probe.THE NUMBERS
Limited to 88 pieces worldwide—one for every constellation recognized by the International Astronomical Union—priced at USD 1.88 million. First deliveries coincide with the total lunar eclipse on March 3, 2026, when each watch will be synchronized to the moment of totality. Twenty percent of every sale funds the Jacob Arabo Zero-Gravity Scholarship at ETH Zürich, guaranteeing that the next generation of astro-engineers studies tuition-free.THE QUOTE
Jacob Arabo, barefoot in a midnight-blue suit, raised the sphere today and declared: “Time is the only luxury we cannot negotiate with. So I built something that negotiates with the universe on our behalf.”THE INVITATION
The ASTRONOMIA NOVA is available immediately by private appointment in New York, Geneva, Dubai and Tokyo. No walk-ins, no waiting list, no compromises. Step inside the boutique, let the lights dim, and watch galaxies form around your wrist. After all, the stars arrive on schedule—but they never wait.

Harry Winston Ocean Date Moon Phase

When Harry Winston debuted the Harry Winston Ocean Collection back in 1998, it was immediately clear that, despite the name, these were not like the other aquatic watches on the market. While undoubtedly sports watches, powered by calibres that promised a host of handy mechanical complications should you be headed for the high seas, these were not rugged timepieces destined for the wrists of deep-sea divers and professional sailors. They were sleek, refined, elegant. Some of them even featured diamonds for heaven’s sake.
No, these were Harry Winston Ocean watches created for those for whom the term ‘ocean’ conjured up visions of sunny days in the Hamptons or yachting in the Caribbean. Sure, they could stand up to squally showers and quick dips if required, but really, these were watches best admired at the bar rather than on-board ship.

None of which should be interpreted as a dig. Harry Winston’s sport-luxe approach to the Harry Winston Ocean Collection has clearly chimed with its well-heeled audience. This year, the collection celebrates its 25th anniversary and remains the house’s signature sports watch range. So, how best to celebrate such an occasion? With diamonds, of course.
This summer, Harry Winston unveiled two new editions of the Ocean Date Moon Phase Automatic, designed to celebrate the anniversary – each of which puts precious stones front and centre.

While both feature the signature three arches surrounding the winding crown – inspired by the entrance to Harry Winston’s New York flagship store – fans of the collection will instantly notice the reconfigured dial. Breaking with the collection’s traditional symmetrical designs, a fresh, modern asymmetric layout offers sub-dials displaying the time, date and moon phase embellished with shimmering mother-of-pearl or an abundance of round-cut and baguette diamonds.
Likewise, both Harry Winston Ocean watches feature in-house calibre HW3202 automatic movements (which can be admired through sapphire crystal casebacks) housed in 42mm 18k white gold cases alternately set with brilliant- or baguette-cut diamonds. In keeping with the aquatic heritage, both references are also water resistant to 100 metres; whether you’re brave enough to actually take them diving is a conversation to be had between you and your bank manager.

Bracelet-wise, you have a choice between a blue alligator leather strap finished with a diamond-set white-gold buckle or a full white gold bracelet set with 558 baguette-cut diamonds. It will probably come as no surprise that the latter, which boasts a total diamond weight of more than 38 carats, is limited to just five pieces. As for the price? Strictly on application, naturally.

MAURICE LACROIX Fiaba Trio

The Swiss marque’s creative team has worked with three friends of the brand, namely Hannah, Marina, and Nadia, to conceive a trio of elegant watches. Offered in a choice of three vibrant dial shades and enriched with a circlet of 46 diamonds, the new model shines with a bold statement.
Maurice Lacroix has reimagined the brand’s Fiaba model, upholding its distinctive character while at the same time imbuing it with a sizeable dose of urban chic. Harnessing the talents of its creative team, Maurice Lacroix unveils the Fiaba Trio, a captivating story expressed in three different ways.

The Fiaba, meaning ‘fairy tale’ in Italian, has proved a popular choice for individuals seeking an unabashed feminine timepiece. Inspired by the smooth shape of a pebble that’s been refined over time by the gentle caress of sand and sea, the contours of the Fiaba prove smooth and sensual. Offered in different sizes, dial colours and, in some cases, equipped with a moon phase display, the Fiaba has always been a byword for ‘sophistication’. The Fiaba’s steel bracelet complements the model’s round case and neat crown.
Always keen to hear customer feedback, Maurice Lacroix commissioned various focus groups, asking ladies what they sought from a watch. This led to the creation of a smooth, ergonomic bracelet that cossets the wrist. The underside of each link is endowed with a small recess, augmenting wearer comfort. Beyond such practical considerations, the bracelet sits in concert with the rest of the watch while at the same time making the Fiaba stand out from the crowd. In designing the Fiaba Trio, the creative team at Maurice Lacroix have worked with three friends of the brand, members of the ML Crew: Hannah Lucy, Marina and Nadia.

Hannah Lucy Williams is an elite British athlete who regularly competes on the world stage, participating in 200m and 400m races. She came to prominence in 2020 when she won the 200-metre sprint at the British Championships. Continuously seeking to optimise her performance, Hannah always remains focussed in her pursuit of podium glory.

Marina Correira is known for her skills in longboard dancing and freestyle. Her prowess on the longboard can be attributed to her capacity to unite seemingly disparate traits, e.g. smooth and fast, elegant and wild. It is these characteristics that Marina has mastered and made her own; talents that led to her being crowned world champion.
Along with her partner Dakota, Nadia artfully expresses emotion by delivering thought-provoking performances through the medium of dance. No words are spoken, yet meaning is articulated with the precise movement of limbs, flowing in sequence with the rhythm of the moment. One half of the award-winning dance duo, Nadia has gained a reputation for saying much without uttering a word.

All three women have active lifestyles that inspired Maurice Lacroix to create three distinctive iterations of the Fiaba, each expressed in a cool, vibrant shade.
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, together with a lithe centre seconds hand, impart meaning. Each hour is denoted with either a tear-shaped index or an Arabic numeral, save for 12 o’clock where the brand’s M-logo indicates the midnight hour. The central area of the dial is framed with a gleaming circlet playing host to 46 SI diamonds (total 0.1242 carats), granting a tasteful quotient of glamour to this sumptuous ensemble.

Housed in a 32 mm stainless steel case, the new Fiaba Trio is available in a choice of three dial hues: Baby Blue, Blush Pink and Pistachio Green. Each colour is an expression of beauty and was inspired by said members of the ML Crew; all independent women who continuously explore the limits of human performance while still knowing when to have fun.

Breitling Adds A Trio Of Aviation-Inspired Chronographs To Its Avenger Collection

Last year, Breitling introduced its updated Avenger collection, a slightly scaled-down, sleeker take on the original Avenger. That collection included a ceramic “Night Mission” chronograph. Now, Breitling Night Mission Avenger has added a trio of chronographs that pay homage to the U.S. Navy.
Like last year’s Breitling Night Mission Avenger, this trio uses a 44mm (15.2mm thick, 53mm lug-to-lug) black ceramic case and is powered by Breitling’s manufacturer caliber B01 chronograph. It’s a COSC-certified, column-wheel, vertical-clutch movement with a 70-hour power reserve. The manufacture movement represents a technical leap forward for the Avenger chronograph. It’s still a big watch that won’t be for everyone, but that’s what we expect – even ask – of Breitling. And with downsized offerings in other corners of the catalog, this keeps the Avenger true to its original purpose.
This new trio is differentiated, I suppose, by a military tie-in with the U.S. Naval Academy and two of its elite flying squadrons, the Dust Devils and the Bloodhounds. Their respective logos sit on the nine o’clock subdial, and there are also some engravings around around the sapphire caseback.

Of course, special edition also means special price, and these have an MSRP of $10,200, a $500 premium over the standard Night Missions. When I wrote about a collection of 17 vintage Breitlings a few weeks ago, I mentioned that a little 34mm gold Premier chrono was my favorite of the bunch. So a 44mm ceramic chronograph that leans into military and aviation is decidedly not for me, which is fine. But a $10,000 chronograph that leans into Breitling’s history of aviation and military in a pretty specific way also feels like it might have a niche appeal. I don’t mind the Navy tie-in, but the logos at nine o’clock just seem a bit random and loud. At their best – and back in the day – these military watches have subtle nods to their purpose as a tool for service men and women. Perhaps even just a caseback engraving. But beyond the logos, the combination of colors, straps, and ceramic on these new Avengers do look cool and covert.

Besides that, I actually like the updated Avenger and the ceramic “Night Mission” might be the best executed – it manages to sit somewhere between the Breitling Night Mission Avenger of 20 years ago and the Breitling of today in a way that feels true to the brand.

RICHARD MILLE RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Richard Mille is presenting the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Pastel Blue Quartz TPT and the RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT, two new executions of its high-frequency rattrapante chronograph.
The first model comes in a case crafted of pastel blue Quartz TPT and will join the collection. The second version, issued in a limited edition of 120 pieces, features a dark yellow Quartz TPT. Measuring 44.50 x 49.94 x 16.10 mm and water resistant to 50 metres / 165 feet, their tripartite cases frame skeletonised dials that stand out for the use of vibrant colours to enhance legibility despite numerous indications. Each colour is associated with a function on the dial, thereby enhancing ease of reading. This colour code is shared with the pushers and crown.
Bezel, caseband and caseback are crafted from Quartz TPT, developed by NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology), a composite material made of multiple layers of silica fibres, saturated with resins specially developed for Richard Mille and heated to 120° at a pressure of 6 bars. The result is not only aesthetically pleasing but also remarkable for its extreme resistance. The large crown in microblasted, polished and satin-finished Grade 5 titanium is framed by the chronograph buttons, also in polished and satin-finished Grade 5 titanium. The same material and finish are used for the plate engraved with RM 65-01 on the caseband. The rapid-winding pusher at 8 o’clock stands out with its red or blue Quartz TPT button.
Pressing this pusher 125 times fully winds the barrel, ensuring a power reserve of up to 60 hours (without the chronograph running). This practical and ‘playful’ function was challenging to develop due to its high torque transfer. During the ageing tests, the function was activated thousands of times.

Equipped with a six-column wheel, the calibre RMAC4 features a high-frequency balance with variable inertia, oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour with stopwatch calculations to 1/10th of a second. The function selector on the crown enables the wearer to switch quickly from traditional
winding mode (W) to setting the semi-instantaneous date (D) or the hours and minutes (H). The RM 65-01 uses a variable geometry to optimise the rotor’s winding motion. By adjusting the 3-position weight, the rotor’s inertia can be adjusted to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or to slow it down during sporting activities. The new models add to the other RM 65-01 versions in Red Gold, Titanium, Grey Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS & Diver X Skeleton OPS

Sustainability is a big trend in watchmaking today as brands jump on the bandwagon of environmentally friendly products. Some, like Chopard, ensure the sustainable source of their gold, while others look to innovative recycled materials with a lower carbon footprint. As a brand with legitimate and historical maritime ties, Ulysse Nardin’s environmental focus is the sea. One of its first watches to use recycled fishing nets was the Diver Net Concept Watch of 2020. Turning to its Diver collection again in 2024, Ulysse Nardin gives its Diver and Diver X Skeleton models a sustainable makeover with on-trend camouflage.
Used by animals to blend into the environment and survive attacks from predators, camouflage crossed over into the military to keep soldiers and their kit protected from enemy fire. A trend adopted across the board in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin kitted its Freak One in military green to great effect. Borrowing the rugged military camo uniform of the Freak, the Diver Net Ops and Diver X Skeleton Ops (ops for operations) are prepped for action above and below the waves.
The more rugged 300m water-resistant Diver Net Ops comes in a 44mm case. Using Nylo (recycled fishing nets) and Carbonium (carbon fibre used for fuselage and wings of aircraft) for the flanks and caseback combined with recycled stainless steel for the movement holder, the brand claims the watch reduces its environmental impact by 40% compared to traditional cases. To complete the materials menu, the marbled unidirectional rotating bezel is made of Carbonium and the khaki green strap is partially made from recycled fishing nets. The watch can also be ordered with a green rubber strap and a black ceramic UN element.
The khaki sandblasted dial is traversed by the signature X, picked out in green and black for the occasion. Thanks to the application of beige Super-LumiNova with a green emission, the indices and hands light up in the dark. Slightly recessed, the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock with an integrated date window with a green background is counterbalanced at noon by the power reserve indicator.
Powered by the brand’s first in-house base calibre (UN-118), this automatic movement is fitted with cutting-edge nanotechnology in the form of a DiamonSil escapement (an alliance of silicium and artificial diamond) and a silicium hairspring. The movement uses 50 jewels, runs at a rate of 28,800vph and provides 60 hours of power reserve.
A fusion of the Diver and the Skeleton, this new edition of the Diver X Skeleton goes commando and reveals its movement front and back thanks to the incorporation of UN’s skeletonised automatic movement. Still measuring 44mm but with a slightly thicker profile of 15.7mm, the 200m water-resistant case also features Carbonium details on the unidirectional rotating bezel and inside the movement on the barrel cover at noon. However, to reduce some of the weight, the case and caseback are made of black DLC titanium with sandblasted and satin finishes.
The oversized double X traversing the openworked dial neatly frames the large oscillator and silicium escapement at 6 o’clock. Black hour indices, suspended on the flange, are treated with beige Super-LumiNova to match the black hands. Matching the camo colour scheme, the khaki fabric strap is partially made from upcycled fishing nets or a green rubber strap. It is attached to the wrist with a black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle. On the reverse, other features of the UN-372 calibre are revealed. Its large X-shaped rotor has openworked areas to avoid interfering with the view of the movement. The automatic movement beats at 21,600vph and delivers a sturdy 72-hour power reserve.

HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda

Following the release of the Conical Tourbillon in black with green dial-side animation and the vibrant, multi-coloured Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires, the brand continues its innovative exploration of fluid time presentation and bold colour combinations. Indie watchmaker HYT‘s latest creation is the HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda , a cultured black-and-white version of this complex watch, limited to eight pieces.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda features a 48mm diameter titanium case, is water-resistant up to 30 meters, and mirrors the shape and size of previous Conical Tourbillon models. The case is coated in white ceramic, extending to the titanium side grilles and frame. This finish continues onto the crown, which includes a black DLC titanium insert. The dial is topped by an ultra-domed sapphire crystal with AR treatment, showcasing a white agate chapter ring with three-dimensional, black-coated indices treated with Super-LumiNova, along with the HYT logo at the 6 o’clock position. The HYT’s signature retrograde hour indication is represented by black and white liquids propelled by bellows inside a borosilicate capillary tube. Minutes are indicated by a matte black pointer hand with white Super-LumiNova.
At the centre, attention is captivated by the conical tourbillon, developed for the series by master watchmaker Eric Coudray, and the “chaotic animation” featuring three 2.5mm white agate spheres and smaller counterweights, along with two white and four black spheres, each 1.5mm in diameter, within the futuristic tourbillon cage. The conical tourbillon completes a clockwise revolution every 30 seconds. The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda movement boasts various inclinations: the spring balance is inclined at 30 degrees to the horizontal, the escape wheel at 15 degrees, and the pallet at 23 degrees. Three large white agate spheres rotate at different speeds on the cage’s periphery, with the first completing four turns per minute, the second five turns per minute, and the third six turns per minute, all clockwise. This design demonstrates the stability of the conical tourbillon’s rate, creating a mesmerizing spectacle perfectly complemented by the black-and-white aesthetic.
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Panda is powered by the manually wound calibre 701-TC, which comprises 533 components, the same as in the earlier variants of the timepiece. This movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 40-hour power reserve. The exhibition caseback reveals the contemporary movement, which features black and rhodium-plated finishes and distinctive bellows.