U-Boat is an Italian brand based on Tuscany. The watches are typically very large, from 45mm to 50mm and often seen as a different take to Italian dive watches than brands like Panerai. Designed by founder and creative director Italo Fontana, the Classico lineup is a collection which U-Boat describes as one which “takes elegance to a whole new level”. In our opinion, we will not accuse of any of the U-Boat creations as elegant by any stretch of imagination. Though at U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno, this novelty is somewhat smaller than the watches in the Classico series, if we do not include a model identified as Stratos in 40mm.
The series has a strong aesthetic which we would describe as rough and tough tool watch. The design is of the Classico collection is a destro arrangement with the crown on the left at 9 o’clock. The crown is protected by a patented crown protection system, one which is alike yet unlike the one found on Panerai. The guard is actually a huge crown cap, which is attached by a metal hinge at 7 o’clock and can be unscrewed to reveal the real crown. Though this is a kind of a armour which may offer some measure of protection for the crown, we feel the design is not particularly elegant.
Also of interest is that the model name says U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno , which translate to Tungsten in Italian, leads us to think that the case is made of tungsten. However, only the bezel is made of tungsten and not the entire case which is stainless steel in this new 42mm case sized Classico.
The case looks very robust, but water resistance is only rated to 100m. The movement is only specified as Swiss automatic winding Caliber STP 1-11. This leads us to assume that the movement is the Swiss Technology Production (a Fossil company) and a derivative of the ubqutious Sellita SW200-1/ETA 2824-1. The base specifications – dimensions, no of jewels, power reserve does line up. U-Boat specifies a custom rotor which is skeletonised to bear the U-Boat logo. However, the STP data sheet for the C. 1-11 says that the movement is time only with date, and is without the 24 hour indicator which is found on the U-Boat Classico 42. We are not certain if this is a special modification specified by U-Boat.
The Maison from Lucca reinterprets its Classico model in two versions, beige and black, with a reduced case size of 42 mm, tungsten bezel, glass caseback and visible movement.
A Classic is forever and when the design becomes iconic, it would be a mortal sin to change it.
U-Boat Classico 42 Tungsteno re-proposes its acclaimed time only Classico model, characterized by clean and essential lines, with 42 mm AISI 316L steel case and polished tungsten bezel.
The Classico model is now presented in two dial versions, in black and beige with indexes and numerals treated with SuperLuminova, on which an additional 24-hour counter stands.
On the caseback in full glass, fastened to the case with 6 screws that guarantee the watch’s water resistance up to 100 meters deep, a central window allows a view of the movement and the skeletonized rotor customized by the brand.
A lasered strap in leather, aged by a natural process and handmade in Tuscany by expertcraftsmen, completes the look of the two watches, with innate class and elegance, whichmakes them adapt to any type of outfit.