A complex, delicate device that aims at counteracting the negative effects of gravity on the regulating organ of a watch (and an invention of Genius A.L. Breguet), the tourbillon is often considered one of the grails of watchmaking, together with the perpetual calendar or the rattrapante chronograph. Being a complex assembly that requires skills and patience, it is often a dream that only a few can access. However, a few brands have decided to bring the spectacle of this tiny device to the wrist of more watch enthusiasts, with a more accessible price. CODE41, a young brand known for its disruptive strategy, unveils a watch with a tourbillon movement developed, designed and assembled entirely in Switzerland, priced below the 10k mark. Meet the new CODE41 T360 Tourbillon.
Rare are the watches equipped with a tourbillon (at least high-quality, Swiss- or German-made watches) that come at a (relatively speaking) accessible price tag. In reality, a tourbillon manufactured by an established watchmaker often requires a solid 5-digit amount, making it a dream that will never come true for the masses. However, CODE41 is known for shaking things a bit, with a rather novel way to treat mechanical watchmaking. Founded by Claudio D’Amore, CODE41 is all about involving the public in all of its creations. The first CODE41 project resulted in a mechanical wristwatch that raised over half a million Swiss francs. The watches made by the brand are following the principles of the TTO label, standing for Total Transparency on Origin. And following a series of watches all equipped with unique movements, such as the mighty Mecascape Sublimation One, it’s time for the brand to bring its own take on the tourbillon.
As always with this young brand, the community initiates the development of each new project. And for its latest creation, the tourbillon won the votes. Each key step has been subject to a vote submitted to the hundreds of thousands of members of the community: the choice of the type of tourbillon, the design of the case and the colours selected for the final collection. The result is the present watch, the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon. And, as you’ve come to expect from the brand, the price strategy is quite aggressive, as the watch is positioned below the all-important 10k mark, despite having a proprietary movement.
The idea was once again to bring a complication often inaccessible to most now available to as many as possible. This would have easily been possible by simply outsourcing the movement from an Asian source. But that’s not what CODE41 and its TTO label stand for. The movement you can see in this watch has indeed been designed and assembled entirely in Switzerland, with the list of the partners involved in the project clearly exposed on the brand’s website – it includes well-known Swiss companies such as Atokalpa (Balance wheel, lever escapement, escape wheel), KIF (shock absorber), BCP Tourbillon (movement design), or Orimpex (Assembly of the movement and casing).
The result of this project is a movement, designed with the brand’s usual codes in mind – openworked, sharp bridges – and equipped with a tourbillon regulator on full display. This hand-wound calibre features a large barrel delivering 105 hours of power reserve (over 4 days), with a classic one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, beating at a 3Hz frequency. All the parts are suspended between graphic, sharp and faceted bridges, giving a contemporary, technical touch to the T360 Tourbillon watch. This movement is fine-tuned in 5 positions and adjusted to an accuracy of -5/+5 seconds per day.
The other idea of CODE41 with its new T360 Tourbillon was to offer this usually delicate complication within a watch made for daily use. As such, the cases are meant to be modern, sporty and resistant. 42mm in diameter, resistance, lightness and comfort are obtained by the use of grade 5 titanium, in both options offered by the brand. Next to the classic case that has been used in all of the brand’s creations, the so-called NativeDNA case, CODE41 has developed in conjunction with its movement a new case named Stratom. A revamped squared case, with 4 corner-placed screws, it offers an even more technical look to the collection, perfectly in line with the contemporary look of the movement.
Finally, the CODE41 T360 Tourbillon will be offered with a customization program. In addition to the choice of case (NativeDNA or Stratom), future owners will be able to choose between multiple dial colours (5 colour combinations for the dial and hands) as well as a selection of leather or rubber straps, or steel bracelets (all 24mm in width). In total, over 200 possible combinations are available. In addition, the T360 Tourbillon is equipped with an interchangeability system.