Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie

Demand for jewelry watches is by all accounts heating up, and Patek Philippe Nautilus is nourishing the segment with an unprecedented burst of bling: seven new jeweled pieces, ranging from diamond bezels to pieces with full setting on every surface. Highlighting the launch are two rainbow-sapphire and diamond models in the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection, plus five new pieces in the Nautilus collection, including three fully set models.
What makes a watch ultra-luxurious for any given collector is highly subjective: for some, it’s technical feats and for others, it’s about materials and aesthetics. With Patek’s latest additions to its catalog, we get the best of both worlds. The Swiss watchmaker has been growing the complexity of its Aquanaut Luce collection for the past several years. We saw the debut of a dual-time-zone Travel Time model in 2021, a self-winding flyback chronograph in 2022, and an Annual Calendar this past spring. Now, we get the first Grand Complication to appear in the collection: the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie References.
With the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5260/355R-001 and 5260/1455R-001 you have two models that perfectly embody the luxury sport watch with high-level gem setting and technical complexity. The 5260/355R-001 features a warm rose gold build with all the classic hallmarks of the Aquanaut line, including the signature octagonal bezel. Here, it gets special treatment with a double row of baguette-cut gems featuring the “invisible setting” along with an outer row of diamonds and an inner row of multicolored sapphires in a rainbow of hues. Altogether, it shows off 52 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires totaling 3.19 carats, 112 baguette-cut diamonds totaling 7.31 carats, and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.72 carats. The stones extend to the dial with a center paved with baguette diamonds featuring the “invisible setting”, an hour circle adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds featuring the “snow setting,” and 12 multicolored sapphire hour markers.
Yesterday morning, in the early hours East Coast time, Patek Philippe launched a host of new references in the Aquanaut and Patek Philippe Nautilus collections. One of those watches stood out from the rest: a rainbow Aquanaut with minute repeater complication “for ladies.” Needless to say, I woke up to a tirade of rainbow Aquanaut images on Instagram. After approximately five solid minutes of eye-rubbing, a giant glass of water, and a barrage of unopened texts about the new Patek, I checked my phone for the second time. I was immediately reminded of last year’s Aquanaut Luce rainbow release and my militant scrutiny regarding gem-setting as the easy way out for women’s watch design.