Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France

In keeping with the tradition since 2008, Bell & Ross releases a new watch at the request of the French Air Force. This 2022 edition is with the famous acrobatic unit Patrouille de France, with the new BR 03 Type A.
The new Bell & Ross BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France REF. BR03AD-BBR-ST/SRB is a limited edition of only 100 copies, and has a retail price of SGD 6,100 inclusive of GST. Pre-orders are open online now, for delivery in December.
We covered the 2021 edition of the Patrouille de France by Bell & Rossin their BR 03-94 Patrouille de France. This time, for 2022, Bell & Ross again chose to use the rounded square design of the BR 03, but euipped it with a new multi function quartz movement with multi-function analogue-digital display instead of the mechanical chronograph used in 2021. The watch chosen for the 2022 Patrouille de France Edition is based on the BR 03 Type A Armée de L’Air of 2008 instead of the 2021 Patrouille de France. The novelty is the same watch as the 2008 version, but with a different dial, and colour scheme reflective of the different collaboration.
The display is also reminiscent of dial which is indicative of the movement used in the Aerospace (Breitling B76) and the B79 in the Emergency II. Both these movements are based on the ETA 988.352 Thermoline. The BR-CAL 103 shows the same features, and is probably also based on the same ETA movement, though Bell & Ross does not state the source of the movement. And also left out a critical specification that the movement is thermo compensated. The ETA is a highly respected movement, well known for its very high precision timekeeping capabilities. It also shines in the use of both digital and analogue indicators to maximise the dial space for excellent, clear displays.
Since it was founded in 1994, aviation and the military universe have been the main sources of inspiration for Bell & Ross. That’s why, through their design, dial and functionality, so many Bell & Ross watches still evoke the world of aeronautical instruments: one of the most demanding when it comes to readability and reliability.

Testament to the excellence achieved by Bell & Ross, elite units from various nations’ armed forces have chosen the watchmaker’s timepieces to accompany them in their perilous missions. So it is with the Patrouille de France, one of the most prestigious acrobatic formations in the world: a true ambassador of the French wings that embodies the expertise of the Air and Space Force.
Today, Bell & Ross is launching a new watch designed and produced in close collaboration with the Patrouille de France pilots, whose emblem of course adorns the dial.

“Bell & Ross shares the same values of precision and performance as the pilots in this elite aerobatic unit,” says Bruno Belamich, the watchmaker’s co-founder and creative director. After forging an official watchmaking partnership with the Patrouille de France in 2021, resulting in the launch of its first dedicated watch, Bell & Ross continues its aerial adventure with the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France. With its spectacular dial, this timepiece follows in the brand’s tradition: in 2008, it was at the request of the Air Force that Bell & Ross designed the BR 03 Type A instrument for fighter pilots. Now in the colours of the Patrouille de France, this new version is heir to the brand’s true tool watch.
It goes without saying that this watch respects rigorous specifications in line with the needs of Patrouille de France pilots, who manoeuvre in close formation at speeds of between 300 and 800 km/h. When the gap between two planes is only two or three metres, there is no room for even the slightest error. Knowing that it all plays out in a tiny fraction of time, time mastery has always been a professional pillar for these aerobatic aces. As such, all the technical expertise of Bell & Ross engineers and watchmakers came into play to create the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France.
Adopting the aesthetic “rounded square” concept that constitutes a veritable visual signature for Bell & Ross, and designed for and by elite pilots, this new chronograph features the square BR 03 case in steel, with a diameter of 42mm.

Intended for professional use, the watch is equipped with a quartz movement giving a dual analogue and digital display. The high drain battery provides 30 months of battery life. To provide the best possible readability even in intense situations, the hours and minutes are displayed with conventional hands, while the seconds are displayed on a digital screen. “This device gives pilots optimal reading speed,” stresses Bruno Belamich. In addition, the bidirectional rotating bezel helps memorise time references.

Beyond time indications, the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France offers many additional functions that come in useful in whatever the circumstance: 1/100th of a second chronograph with intermediate and additional time, countdown, alarm, date and dual time zone.
The window at the top of the dial displays the abbreviation of the chosen function. The second window, positioned at the bottom of the dial, digitally displays the measurement. The various functions are selected by pressing the crown.As a sign of its exclusivity, only 100 copies of the BR 03 Type A Patrouille de France will be produced. Each pilot in the unit will be given with one of these emblematic watches, which has all the elements to fast become a collector’s item.

Nomos Glashütte Tangente Liebreiz

In watchmaking, the German brand Nomos Glashütte Tangente Liebreiz has arrived at a specialty in the watch business. This remarkable method of achieving imaginative changes to watchmaking has brought Nomos acclaim that is wanted by some since quite a while ago settled Swiss watch brands. Notwithstanding, the greater part of Nomos’ notoriety comes from his lead assortment – Tangente. With a direct plan with an unmistakable and smooth dial, this watch was enormously respected by watch sweethearts when it was delivered in 1992. Also, to date subsequent to finishing a long excursion with the brand, this Nomos watch appreciates an equivalent status among watch sweethearts. wristwatch. wristwatch.
One brand that Dean truly prefers is NOMOS. Truth be told, the Glashuette-based brand was one of the first to be added to the stable after Dean joined Brinker – which likewise shows the trust set in him by the Brinker family. As the proprietor of a few NOMOS watches including the restricted release Club Campus Amsterdam, for quite a long time Dean longed for possessing a restricted version for Brinker. Likewise, as of now with the 50th celebration coming up, the ideal open entryway presented itself. However, rather than a restricted release, Brinker constructs pressure by doing it consistently from this point until the 2022 commemoration. The first is NOMOS Club 48, reference 737.S3.

Today we have the extraordinary watch from the German producer Nomos Glashütte Tangente Liebreiz (we will discharge the umlaut starting now and into the foreseeable future for effortlessness) tangente NOMOS have been around for quite a while, however despite the fact that these have left their imprint in the watchmaking business with moderate plans, passage level extravagance costs, and above all of all German quality and the most elevated consideration. down to the subtleties!
NOMOS Glashutte as we said has been missing for quite a while! The Nomos name was enrolled by Roland Schwertner (who actually drives deals at NOMOS today) in January 1990, only two months after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Nomos draws its impact from the watch plans of the customary German ‘Bauhaus’ style. This regularly brings about moderate dial plans, meager, smooth cases and negligible boxes and paper. With NOMOS at first utilizing the Swiss-made manual breeze development ETA/Peseux 7001. In any case, the organization began to truly stand apart from the Swiss and German rivalry when in 2005 they began utilizing watch developments only. Beginning with the α (Alpha) manual breeze type, yet advancing to the manual breeze type with greater unpredictability over the long haul. With the advancement of their own escapement in 2014, Nomos Glashütte Tangente Liebreiz is totally autonomous of the Swiss maker. As of late, in 2015 NOMOS presented the in-house 10 types DUW (Deutsche Uhrenwerke) 3001. The super flimsy programmed type with a stature of just 3.1 mm was selective to the Neomatic arrangement and in 2018 refreshed the Noematic arrangement with Neomatic-date with Caliber. DUW 6101.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature

Wempe is launching a series of exclusive watches in collaboration with well-renowned watch manufacturers to create its newest collection, the aptly named Breitling Wempe Signature Collection. The strictly limited partnership models are based off some of the most classic references in the watch world, and kicking off the series is a watch produced in partnership with Breitling via the new Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature Collection. Featuring a familiar Navitimer aesthetic dressed in blue with red gold accents, the style channels classic Breitling design with notable Wempe influences. Ticking inside the 43mm stainless steel case is the automatic manufacture caliber B01 with chronometer certification. This high-end chronograph movement is equipped with a vertical clutch and column wheel control. The movement beats behind a commemorative sapphire crystal case back and offers 100 meters of watch resistance and a power reserve of 70 hours. The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature Collection will be available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. The standard model is presented on an alligator leather strap and is priced at $9,200. The variant with a metal bracelet has a price tag of $9,600. The watch will be sold exclusively in Wempe stores and via the brand’s website.
A symbiosis of the best of the watch world. In the course of the Signature Collection, Wempe meets with renowned manufacturers and combines their iconic models with its own long-standing knowledge of expectations and wishes of their customer base.The case, in stainless steel, measures 43mm. It has a cambered AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters. Movement is the Swiss automatic Breitling in-house caliber 01 with 47 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 70 hours. It features a column-wheel and a vertical clutch and it is COSC-certified as a chronometer.
A purist design with that certain something. The Uptown by Wempe Statements bracelet is composed of twenty graphic elements in warm 18k rose gold that mesh almost invisibly. Each element of this dynamically flowing piece of jewelry is set with a brilliant-cut diamond with a total carat weight of 1.30 ct.
followed by Launching a range of unique watches in collaboration with renowned watch manufacturers to create its latest collection Signature collection followed. The strictly limited edition models are based on some of the most classic references in the watch world. Starting the series Followed by the Signature Collection X Breitling with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature Collection.

Ticking inside the 43mm stainless steel case is the automatic manufacture caliber B01 with chronometer certification. This high-end chronograph movement is equipped with a vertical clutch and column wheel control. The movement beats behind a sapphire crystal case and offers 100 meters of watch resistance and a 70-hour power reserve.

The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Signature Collection Available in a limited edition of 200 pieces. The standard model is presented on an alligator leather strap and costs around $8,500 and retails for approx. $8,850 on a metal bracelet. The watch will be sold exclusively at Wempe stores and through the brand’s website.

Breitling Avenger Chronograph GMT 45

Swiss watch company Breitling recently held one of its still-new Breitling Summit event concepts here in Los Angeles. One of the new references launched was this duo of GMT watches, the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 (reference A32395101C1A1 or A32395101C1X1 / A32395101C1X2) and the related Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission (reference V32395101B1X1 / V32395101B1X2).

First, a tangent about the brand’s activities. I’ve said multiple times recently that the brand has been one of the best performing luxury watch companies over the last 18 months, due to the re-energized Georges Kern and the ability for him to execute his ideas. If anything, Kern’s short time at Breitling (about two years) demonstrates the power of what you can do if a company’s financial arm allows for a CEO to spend and invest in the future, no matter the current state of global investor confidence. The good news for Breitling is that their efforts are paying off, even today.
Weeks away from the release of the first film he produced (in French), Georges Kern sits at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills with guests from around the Americas who have come to see him, his friends, and his new creations. I’ve personally never seen Mr. Kern more at ease and seemingly hopeful about the future.

One cause for Mr. Kern’s positive sentiments is that business is growing for Breitling — and in important places like the United States and China. The United States has always been a strong market for Breilting. (It is often said to be the third-largest Swiss luxury watchmaker in the United States, after Rolex and Omega, respectively.) Kern is a globalist and understands that, while local tastes and preferences differ, Breitling needs to be a global brand in every sense of the word. From a product perspective, Kern was also lucky, not only in his ability to streamline the brand’s notoriously confusing model families but also to sit on an archive of designs and styles that happen to be particularly fashionable these days.
Well-made, good-looking watches aren’t enough — and with Kern’s understanding of Hollywood appeal comes his understanding of marketing. That, blended with his more than two decades of experience in the watch industry, has allowed for him to be among the very few leading watch brand CEOs who have the courage to try new things in a global economic recession, when spirits are down and luxury seekers (who continue to exist in droves) are chasing different pleasures than the generation before them.
For instances, the next person who dons one of these Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches might be a drone racing champion. Breitling is, indeed, adding the world of drone-flying sports into its legacy of aviation. The logic is sound, and on top of that, drone racing also appeals to new-generation computer and video gamers seeking sports and heroes relevant to them.
From a timepiece perspective, these new GMT watches are a smart release from Breitling and unlike anything I can think of in the current collection. What other time and GMT Breitling watches (without a chronograph complication) come to mind? I know they have produced GMT watches before, but I don’t think Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 has really ever had a modern GMT hit (and I am not counting the World Time since that is a different style of watch altogether).

As GMT watches, these are good looking timepieces, and the red GMT hands on both the blue-dialed standard steel version and the military-style Night Mission are extremely easy to read and not easily confused with the hour or minute hand. The 24-hour scale, on the other hand, is a bit tiny and will require good eyes. This does mean that the uni-directional rotating bezel can still be used for a 60-minute timer — which, honestly, is rare for GMT watches of this pedigree. Also, there is the case size to contend with, which will make the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 watches too large for a lot of wrists. It is entirely likely that Breitling will make more versions in smaller cases in the future.

Georges Kern also mentioned that part of his new strategy moving forward will be to release fewer watches at a time. The Breitling Summit saw the debut of just 14 SKUs. In the past, the brand produced such a healthy variety of versions for each model that consumers got choice paralysis. They did so because different tastes around the world would prompt them to produce slightly different styles. Today, brands are a lot more aware of what sells and doesn’t, while also being mindful of not saturating the consumer or news markets with too much information at a time. That is my explanation of why Breitling seems to tease a new Avenger GMT watch concept with two models that feel like a slew of others might be hiding right behind the scenes. I personally like that the brands wants people to focus on just a few styles and color treatments at a time.
For 2019, Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 retired the Colt collection and has merged it in with Avenger. The watches always looked too similar, and the new Avenger collection actually has a whole new construction but still has that iconic look and feel of a modern Breitling. The cases are 45mm-wide and have real heft to them, thanks to the wide lugs. Given the width, they feel thin at just 12.3mm-thick, and the cases are water resistant to 30 meters with an AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial.

Inside the watches, Breitling uses a sourced Swiss movement (base ETA 2893, I believe), which they call their Caliber 32 movement. It operates at 4Hz with about 42 hours of power reserve and also features the date, in addition to the time and 24-hour GMT hand for a second time zone display. Breitling has each of the movements COSC-Chronometer certified.
The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 comes in steel with a combo polished and brushed case design. It debuts exclusively with a blue dial and index-style hour markers with a case that is available either on a matching blue textile (leather-lined) strap or a handsome three-link steel bracelet (my choice). Things get a lot more interesting with the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission with its black and khaki tan themes.

The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 is a handsome little devil in a black DLC-coated titanium case paired with a “sand” leather strap. The dial uses a mix of indexes and stencil-style hour markers, which has always made for a good look. I suppose one can criticize Breitling for being too cautious about design innovation at this stage in the brand’s operations — and you might be right. That said, Breilting today is doing a great job of boiling down the core Breitling aesthetics into very fashionable styles (even if they aren’t too original within the brand). Give it a few years and I think we will see more innovation when it comes to design from Mr. Kern. For the time being, I think he is still in the process of trying to distill the core essence of Breitling across the various brand pillars (Aviation 8, Navitimer, Premier, SuperOcean, etc…).

MB&F LM FlyingT ‘Ice’ and ‘Blizzard’

First launched in 2019, the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT was MB&F’s first-ever machine dedicated to women and it was awarded the prize for Best Ladies’ Complication at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that year. The MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT was first launched in 18K white gold and then in 18K red gold and platinum. Following the year 2020, MB&F added special editions with stones including Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, and Tiger Eye. Now, with winter right around the corner, two limited edition MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT models inspired by swirling snow and icy stalagmites make their appearance.

These new Ice and Blizzard editions —limited to eight pieces each— are the result of a collaboration between MB&F and French jewelry designer Emmanuel Tarpin. Emmanuel is a 30-year-old independent jewelry designer from Annecy, in Haute Savoie, France. Fascinated by art and precious stones from a young age, he studied jewelry design at Geneva’s Haute Ecole d’Art et Design —HEAD—, before accepting an internship with a studio working for Van Cleef & Arpels. Keen to learn all aspects of the jewelry business, he would continue working directly for Van Cleef & Arpels in the Maison’s Haute Joaillerie workshop for three years.

This is the second collaboration within the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT collection. The first was with the renowned Italian luxury brand Bulgari and now Emmanuel Tarpin decided on a wintery theme, as not only is winter his favorite season but traveling back and forth between his hometown of Annecy to Geneva, in a sometimes wintery wonderland, quickly provided him with the inspiration he needed.

For this collaboration, Emmanuel Tarpin had a few requests in respect of the movement, starting with the elimination of all gold-colored elements that would have clashed with the white gold case and icy theme. This seemingly innocent request was not quite as simple as it may seem, but all the yellow or red gold elements were changed, while the balance wheel was blued. Another request was to switch out the diamonds set into the center of the tourbillon and two crowns for rare turquoise Paraiba stones, to further reinforce the glacial theme.
Breaking a tradition of masterminding complex, visually arresting watches for men, MB&F undertook its maiden voyage into the galaxy of women’s watches in 2019. Faithful to the brand’s spectacular 3D design language, the Legacy Machine Flying T staged a flying tourbillon rising above the dial plate accompanied by an intriguing hours and minutes dial perched at an angle. Eminently feminine without being affected, the Flying T has had many wardrobe changes but none as glacial as this duet of Ice and Blizzard editions made in collaboration with jewellery designer Emmanuel Tarpin.
I think it is fair to say that one of the most talked about ‘women timepiece’ of the last years is MB&F’s first watch dedicated to ladies from 2019 – the Legacy Machine FlyingT. The already praised timepiece (it also won the Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize at the GPHG 2019) received a famous collaborator, Bulgari, last year and the result was launched during the Dubai Watch Week. Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, and MB&F’s Founder & Creative Director, Maximilian Büsser presented the MB&F x Bulgari – Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, which beautifully combined the signature colourful abundant extravagance of Bulgari with the emblematic MB&F design.

Now MB&F celebrates the upcoming winter with a new collaboration – Max Büsser and his team worked together with French jewellery designer Emmanuel Tarpin, best known for his unique pieces that combine his love for nature, sculpture, innovative materials and gemstones. He studied at HEAD (Haute Ecole d’Art et Design), Geneva’s distinguished school of art and design, before beginning an internship in the high jewelry atelier of Van Cleef & Arpels. He launched his brand in 2017, his own pieces are inspired by nature and the shapes found in the flora and fauna of different countries – shells, jellyfish, geranium leaves, arum lilies or wild orchids.

He first met Max Büsser while studying at HEAD, when Max made a presentation to the students about MB&F. Fast forward a few years and Emmanuel Tarpin’s name popped up as an up-and-coming jewellery designer to watch. Max reached out to him and now we can enjoy the results of their creative cooperation.

Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Steel

While largely known as a maker of excellent pilot’s chronographs like the Navitimer and Chronomat, Breitling also has a stealthily great dive watch collection with its Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Steel. The SuperOcean Heritage line is especially great, ranking among the best divers in the luxury watch industry for the past handful of years. Now, Breitling is looking to gain even more of a foothold in the space with a massive revamp of the standard SuperOcean line.

Breitling has unveiled a new version of the Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Stee that’s inspired by the brand’s SuperOcean Slow Motion diver from the 1960s. While that watch was a chronograph, the new styles are standard three-hand automatics, but they feature a number of styling cues from the vintage piece, namely the high-contrast minute track, the broad indices, and the “paddle” handset. The watch also adds plenty of modern features, too, including a ceramic bezel insert, 300m of water resistance (Breitling notes the watch is also resistant to shocks, saltwater, and even sand), and power from Breitling’s Caliber 17 self-winding movement.

Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 Stainless Stee also made sure that everyone’s wrists and tastes are accounted for with this release — and we mean everyone. The watch comes in three metals: stainless steel, steel-gold, or bronze; four sizes: 36mm, 42mm, 44mm, and 46mm; and a ton of dial colors, including black, blue, white, green, orange, and a near-Tiffany blue — most of which are paired with various bezel and case material options. One of the standouts is the SuperOcean Automatic 42 Kelly Slater. Co-designed with the surfing legend, the watch is limited to 1,000 pieces and pairs an orange dial with a green rubber strap.

Breitling Navitimer B01 Swiss Limited Edition

Swiss luxury watchmaker Breitling has launched a new watch model that is exclusive to SWISS. The new Breitling Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition will be restricted to just 700 pieces and is available for sale solely on selected SWISS routes. SWISS and Breitling have been partners for years and intensified their collaboration earlier this year to promote sustainable air travel.

Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) is now offering its inflight guests the opportunity to acquire the new Breitling Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition wristwatch. The launch of Breitling’s new watch model coincides with both the 70th anniversary of the company’s first iconic Navitimer chronograph and SWISS’s own 20th birthday.

The new model, produced in a limited edition of 700 pieces and available exclusively on selected SWISS long-haul routes, was jointly unveiled this Thursday morning by SWISS CEO Dieter Vranckx and Breitling CEO Georges Kern. The classic Breitling Navitimer aviator watch has proved hugely popular since the launch of its initial model back in 1952.
“SWISS and Breitling share the same values,” says SWISS CEO Dieter Vranckx. “Our brands are both bywords for the highest quality, and we both put a firm focus on the details. The new Navitimer SWISS Limited Edition excellently embodies all these characteristics. And I’m delighted that, to help mark our 20th anniversary, we can offer it exclusively to our SWISS inflight guests.”

Breitling CEO Georges Kern is equally pleased. “With our new SWISS Limited Edition,” he says, “we’re not just celebrating our Navitimer’s 70th birthday: we’re continuing our long-standing partnership with SWISS. Our shared Swiss roots and our passion for aviation have united us for years. And the latest version of this iconic watch marks a further milestone in our collaboration.”

The new Breitling Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition incorporates the typical design details of the iconic Navitimer chronograph but is also unique in its own right. The sleek anthracite dial with its black chronograph counters is deftly accented with red elements echo SWISS’s hallmark red. The back of the watch bears an engraving of the SWISS logo and the inscription ‘ONE OF 700’ to confirm its limited-edition status. And the open caseback draws its inspiration from the engine of a Boeing 777-300ER.
Swiss watch manufacturer Breitling has launched a new watch model that is exclusive to SWISS. The new Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition will be restricted to just 700 pieces and is available for sale solely on selected SWISS routes. SWISS and Breitling have been partners for years and intensified their collaboration earlier this year to promote sustainable air travel.

Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) is now offering its inflight guests the opportunity to acquire the new Breitling Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition wristwatch. The launch of Breitling’s new watch model coincides with both the 70th anniversary of the company’s first iconic Navitimer chronograph and SWISS’s own 20th birthday. The new model, produced in a limited edition of 700 pieces and available exclusively on selected SWISS long-haul routes, was jointly unveiled this Thursday morning by SWISS CEO Dieter Vranckx and Breitling CEO Georges Kern. The classic Breitling Navitimer aviator watch has proved hugely popular since the launch of its initial model back in 1952.

“SWISS and Breitling share the same values,” says SWISS CEO Dieter Vranckx. “Our brands are both bywords for the highest quality, and we both put a firm focus on the details. The new Navitimer SWISS Limited Edition excellently embodies all these characteristics. And I’m delighted that, to help mark our 20th anniversary, we can offer it exclusively to our SWISS inflight guests.”

Breitling CEO Georges Kern is equally pleased. “With our new SWISS Limited Edition,” he says, “we’re not just celebrating our Navitimer’s 70th birthday: we’re continuing our long-standing partnership with SWISS. Our shared Swiss roots and our passion for aviation have united us for years. And the latest version of this iconic watch marks a further milestone in our collaboration.”

The new Breitling Navitimer B01 SWISS Limited Edition incorporates the typical design details of the iconic Navitimer chronograph but is also unique in its own right. The sleek anthracite dial with its black chronograph counters is deftly accented with red elements echo SWISS’s hallmark red. A small aircraft also features on the central second hand. The back of the watch bears an engraving of the SWISS logo and the inscription ‘ONE OF 700’ to confirm its limited-edition status. And the open caseback draws its inspiration from the engine of a Boeing 777-300ER. SWISS and Breitling have been official partners since 2016, bound by a passion for aviation and an uncompromising commitment to quality and precision. Earlier this year the partners intensified their collaboration in the sustainability field. Breitling now purchases sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) for all its people’s business travel on SWISS flights. This makes Breitling the first SWISS corporate customer to commit to using SAF for all such business travel. By doing so, the company has reduced the carbon dioxide emissions generated through such travel activities by 80 per cent. Breitling also offsets the remaining CO2 emissions from such travel via investments in high-quality climate protection projects. In committing to using SAF, Breitling is not only significantly reducing its own carbon footprint: it is also making a vital contribution to promoting sustainable air travel.

Nomos Glashütte 262 Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date

It’s no secret that the Fratelli are big NOMOS fans. The brand’s signature Bauhaus minimalism makes for a wonderful, clean, classy watch. Yet the Glashütte brand is also not afraid to include small details in its designs. These small details often serve as a nod (or a wink) at either the brand’s own history and DNA or its collaborators. An example of this can be found on the Fratello × NOMOS Weltzeit with the house icon replaced with a Dutch windmill. Today, Nomos Glashütte 262 Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date introduces a watch with one such detail, something only possible due to the brand’s DUW 6101 movement. Are you wondering why? Then keep on reading, as I’ll touch upon that later in the article.

All you need to know is this: the Nomos Glashütte 262 Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date is now fully Roman. Meaning that its date window now also includes Roman numerals. It may not seem obvious at first, but a date wheel with Roman numerals is not a common thing for one good reason. And that reason is the fact that the Roman numeral system makes numbers take up a lot more space than their Arabic counterparts. All numbers under 100, can be represented by two Arabic numerals. But in Roman numerals, a number like LXXXVIII (or 88) certainly requires quite a bit of space. Luckily, there are only a maximum of 31 days in a month. But that leaves us with 28 — or XXVIII — in all its six-character glory. Most date wheels and windows shudder at the thought.
Whereas most movements simply can’t accommodate more than two characters on their date wheel (without making them far too small to read with the naked eye), NOMOS makes the impossible possible. This is all thanks to a clever mechanical ace that the brand’s DUW 6101 date caliber has up its sleeve. This is, of course, the movement’s peripheral date ring. Unlike most mechanical movements, which integrate the date wheel into the base plate, NOMOS developed a system that allows it to sit around the movement. This means that even in the brand’s larger models, the date can be shown right at the edge of the dial. The movement also has a date-setting position which allows for the date to be advanced or reversed, with only a half turn of the crown.
The date advances in 30 minutes, meaning there’s only a relatively small 90-minute “danger zone” for setting the date. Not only that, but it also allows for some neat tricks, such as the triple-date display on the Autobahn or the date-ring system found on the Tangente and Metro Update models. In a rather suitable nod to the Ludwig’s Roman numeral dial, the brand uses this real estate afforded to the date wheel to include even the longest of Roman numerals (under 31) without needing a loupe. I must admit that though it’s only a small detail, I love it. The significance of the movement’s unique mechanical architecture, which makes this possible, coupled with the coherence it gives the Ludwig is brilliant. In the world of watches, small details go a long way, and NOMOS gives a perfect lesson on how this is exactly the case.
Is this my new favorite Nomos Glashütte 262 Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date ? Well, my love for the Club Campus is hard to shift. But I have to admit that this kind of small, clever detail with mechanical chops making it possible certainly raises the appeal of the Ludwig for me. And if I should ever happen to be in the market for a Ludwig, you can rest assured that it would have a Roman numeral date display! That said, I’d love to hear your opinions. Do you also appreciate these small details? Or is it a bit too gimmicky for your taste? Regardless, let me know your thoughts in the comments.

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition

Girard-Perregaux, the prestigious Maison from Girard-Perregaux La Chaux de Fonds has a long history of making tourbillons and other expressions of Haute Horlogerie. Recently, the Manufacture unveiled its La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition, a watch that combines the brand’s legendary three gold bridges with an array of artistic crafts. Join the US-based journalist, Meehna Goldsmith, as she explores the composition of this remarkable creation. For its 230th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux pulled out all the stops with the creation of the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition. To understand this piece of wrist art, we need to delve into the brand’s history. In 1867, Constant Girard proved his prowess in chronometry by winning first prize at the Observatoire of Neuchâtel competition for his pocket watch outfitted with a tourbillon, detent escapement and three nickel silver bridges. He presented this same watch at the ‘Exposition Universelle’ held in Paris the same year, where the watch was awarded a medal. The three bridge construction, which is both a functional and artistic element, has been passed down as a defining characteristic. When you see those three horizontal bridges on a watch, you can immediately identify it as a Girard-Perregaux.

Girard took the model of his award-winning pocket watch to showcase precision as well as artistry for the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1889. This time he housed the movement with a tourbillon and detent escapement in a lustrous pink gold 56mm case with three gold bridges to match. In addition, the case featured intricate engraving by Fritz Kundert. After winning a diploma and gold medal at the Exposition, Girard decided to sell the award-winning piece through a jewellery retailer with stores called ‘La Esmeralda’ located in Paris and Mexico. The pocket watch caught the eye of Mexican president Porfirio Diaz (1830-1915) who purchased it. La Esmeralda stayed in the Diaz family until 1970 when Girard-Perregaux acquired the acclaimed pocket watch for its museum. To recognise and honour its roots, Girard-Perregaux released the Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition in November of 2021. Doffing its hat to the original, this 21st century rendition offers a modern interpretation that exhibits the brand’s array of talents.

When you first lay eyes on her, La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition is a lot to take in. (Let’s call her the LETASEE for short.) Although there’s an overwhelming feast of detail, it’s one where you’d be missing out if you didn’t take a seat at the table. Like its predecessor, LETASEE uses pink gold as a motif for its 43mm case and bridges. And wow, those bridges! Over the years, the three bridges have evolved to become more refined and used as a platform to demonstrate finishing finesse. Here you’ll find a particular treat. Usually, bevelling is rounded or flat and done at a 45° angle. In this case, Girard-Perregaux has created a concave bevel that plays delightful tricks in the light: the shade of the gold changes and sometimes the surface will appear convex, offering an added dimension for the eyes. And then there are the sinewy horses, sculpted to depict them in motion. They are incorporated as part of the bridges anchoring the tourbillon and winding barrel. As magnificent as they are, what possessed Girard-Perregaux to choose horses instead of say penguins or giraffes? The answer (somewhat) lies on the back case of the 1889 La Esmeralda, where there are horses engraved. Still, the reason for why they appear on the original remains a mystery. The barrel and mainplate offer up the artistry of traditionally applied guilloché patterns, applied by an artisan operating a lathe. Thereafter, they are dressed in Grand Feu enamel, providing a wonderful contrast with the pink-gold, dauphine-type hour and minute hands journeying around the dial. Not to be outdone, the case is elaborately engraved with a leaf motif in a bow to Kundert. You see the rich blue on the side and flanks? That’s enamelling also, which carries over to the back cover of the watch, along with the equine theme. Enamel outside the dial is practically unheard of, but Girard-Perregaux expands the canvas for this technique. Nice thinking out of the box, or, in this case, the circle. As for the movement, pressing the pusher on the crown opens a “secret” cover that reveals the in-house produced calibre GP09600-1506, impeccably decorated, and that’s saying a lot coming from my admittedly critical eye. The pink gold motif continues with the motion-work bridge and marking plate, whose finishing reflects the shape of the Gold Bridges. While Girard-Perregaux puts on display its virtuosity with handiwork, it also wants you to know its cutting edge technical capabilities. Indeed, an example can be seen with the mainplate, which is milled to incredibly small tolerances with a CNC machine. Girard-Perregaux isn’t usually mentioned in the same breath as Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Sohne or Greubel Forsey. With Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition, the brand makes a strong statement that it belongs on the same podium. Perhaps the watch might even reveal the mystery of the horses to its owners.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5271

If there’s one watch that perfectly defines Patek Philippe, it has to be the chronograph perpetual calendar – a combination that was first introduced by the brand with the reference 1518 and which is now represented by the 5270. This watch debuted in rather neutral, slightly conservative editions but has been updated recently with far bolder styles, such as the green lacquered edition of 2022. In addition, Patek also proposes a gem-set version in platinum, known as the 5271P. Previously available with diamonds and a black dial, this ultra-luxury reference makes a remarkable comeback this year with two new coloured editions, the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P with rubies or blue sapphires, and matching lacquered dials.
Regarding the proportions and movement, there’s not much news. The Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P is nothing more than a stone-packed version of the already desirable and high-end 5270. Yet, there are a few things to be said about these new versions of the 5271P, as they follow the evolutions found on the green 5270P presented earlier this year, representing the fourth generation of this model – the previous versions are covered in this in-depth article.
The previous black-and-diamond 5271P was part of the third generation, meaning no “chin” and a tachymeter bezel on the periphery of the dial. Now, in the same vein as the green model, the new Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P feature a much cleaner dial, with a complete railroad track on the periphery (a continuous track, without the cut at 6 o’clock) and no tachymeter scale. This results in a cleaner, more balanced and modern look. Similarly, the dials are lacquered with bold colours and a gradient effect. Finally, the printings and tracks are pure white and more contrasting than previous editions.
Now, the new versions of the Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar 5271P are set with coloured stones – blue sapphires and rubies – instead of classic diamonds. No surprise here, as Patek has all the necessary skills to make gem-set watches since it recently took a stake in Salanitro SA, the most prominent player in jewellery and gem-setting activities for Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The 41mm platinum case, which is identical to the 5270 models in size and shape, has been adorned with 58 baguette-cut rubies or blue sapphires on both the bezel and the lugs, for a total of 4.11 carats. The result, which is graphic and modern, is also far from being discreet. But this is a style that some clients were asking for.
To add to the audacity of these new editions – 5271/11P with blue sapphires and 5271/12P with rubies – the brand has given them some equally daring dials with matching colours and a glossy lacquer with a black gradient effect. No stones are to be found on the dials, which rely on classic white gold applied markers and hands. The watches are complemented with a glossy black alligator strap with colour-matched stitching and a fold-over clasp that is also set with stones (22 baguette-cut rubies or sapphires, in this instance). Inside the case, no surprises, as we find the advanced calibre CH 29-535 PS Q. This in-house, hand-wound chronograph relies on an appealing architecture with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, on top of which is a perpetual calendar module. There are multiple innovations and technical solutions implemented at play here, which we covered in detail in this article. The movement indicates the time together with a chronograph with central seconds and 30-minute counter, and a perpetual calendar with date-by-hand, apertures for the day and month, a leap year indicator, a day-night indicator and moon phases… and all of that finds its place on the dial is a balanced and legible way.