Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Watch Reference 5980/60G-001

Apparently, early-aughts fashion is back. The glossy magazines, trendy blogs, and Gen Z-ers tell me so. If some of you are too young or too old to remember, lucky you. I, on the other hand, am at the perfect age to have fallen victim to velour tracksuits, flashy tops, silly accessories, and denim everything. There was one particular moment that encapsulates that kooky time in fashion — when Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake stepped out together wearing matching denim outfits; it was spectacular (if you haven’t seen the image, Google it for giggles). It immediately popped back into my head when I saw that Patek Philippe had slapped some denim-inspired straps on at least two of its new models at Watches & Wonders 2024. Patek Philippe watches are now wearing jeans?! Wow, that’s a move that doesn’t compute in my head and smells a little like a midlife crisis to me. We went hands-on with the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Reference 5980/60G-001 watch to find out if this new wardrobe is “fetch” or fail.
It was only a few months ago that Patek Philippe discontinued all the remaining Nautilus 5980 watches (in rose gold and two-tone rose gold and steel) in its catalog, effectively dropping the entire reference. However, the brand has now revived the fan-favorite Nautilus Flyback Chronograph, this time in white gold. The wearing experience and dimensions are, of course, the same as previous versions, which is to say 40.5mm from 10 to 4 o’clock, 12.2mm thick, and 51.4mm lug-to-lug. As you can see from the photos of the Nautilus on Ed’s 6.6-inch wrist, it’s not a compact timepiece by any means; it wears like a broad but supremely comfortable sports watch. It’s wide because of the signature “ears” of the porthole-shaped case but it lies fairly flat and the chronograph pushers stay out of the way thanks to their angled placement.
This is a Patek product, so execution and quality are, as expected, excellent. Nautilus cases are known for their lovely mix of finishes; for instance, the tops of the octagonal bezel, lugs, and case ears are brushed, whereas the bezel slopes, chronograph pushers, and case-to-strap links are polished. While you can get lost in inspecting the case from all angles to spot the various finishes and beveled edges, it’s how they come together that gives the Nautilus its distinct charm.
The opaline blue-gray dial was a big color for Patek at the fair, appearing on four out of the 11 watches it released. It’s an appealing color in person, complementing the white gold case, applied baton hour markers, and rounded baton hands beautifully. The customary horizontal grooves are present, as is the mono-counter at 6 o’clock that cleverly combines concentric scales for the 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Again, if we zoom in on the details, we spot the snailing of the mono-counter, the brushing of the central chronograph hand, and the polishing of the date frame. Whether on the case, dial, or any other watch component, it’s the attention given to these seemingly small details that separate the wheat from the chaff.
Enough of the stuff I already know would be great; how about the new blue-gray calfskin strap embossed with a “denim motif?” Can the Patek Nautilus really pull off a pair of jeans? Well, as my colleague Jake Witkin put it, “It’s an absolute vibe.” I have to admit, it does look better in person than in press photos; it is also impeccably made and super-comfortable. But in terms of style, it still doesn’t do it for me. Yes, the color complements the dial flawlessly and I get that it adds a casual touch to the white-gold sports watch. However, it’s just too Canadian tuxedo for my taste, and I can imagine the look getting old quickly. Justin and Britney thought their outfits were fire at the time (as did millions around the world), but these days, evidence of that night serves as a hilarious meme.
Maybe dad jeans are cool again, especially when Patek wears them, but what about when they aren’t? What I’m getting at is that this feels too trendy and try-hard for a Patek watch, and that just doesn’t sit right with me. I didn’t like it when Omega tried this with the Railmaster, either. Then again, this watch isn’t designed for me, and I have no doubt that the jeans-clad Nautilus will have hoards of fans and will undoubtedly sell out quickly. The jeans lewk is further emphasized by the white hand-sewn stitches on the edges and the strap is fitted with a white-gold Nautilus clasp. An additional composite strap is delivered with the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980/60G-001, also with a blue-gray fabric motif with white stitching.
The back of the watch, equipped with a sapphire crystal window, reveals the Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 flyback chronograph automatic movement that serves to power the new flyback chronograph. The 30mm movement operates at 28,800 beats per hour, supplies 45 to 55 hours of power reserve, and comprises 327 parts including the 21k gold central rotor engraved with Patek’s Calatrava cross logo and a Spiromax balance spring. As is customary, the movement includes the Patek Philippe Seal; however, it’s important to note that for 2024, the company has announced stricter criteria for its in-house seal. According to the announcement, “All watches equipped with a Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar or a traditional Breguet balance spring must comply with a tight tolerance range of -1 and +2 seconds per 24 hours .” Previously, calibers with diameters of 20mm or more with a Patek Philippe Seal had to be precise within the range of -3 and +2 seconds per 24 hours.
The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph in white gold is water-resistant to 30 meters. Before you react incredulously to that rating, Patek has also redefined its water-resistance criteria in 2024. The official announcement states, “To ensure the homogeneity and clarity of the information provided to clients, Patek Philippe has decided to introduce a new unified standard of water-resistance set at 30 meters for all watches certified as water-resistant — having been tested in air and underwater by immersion at an overpressure of 3 bars (corresponding to a depth of 30 m).” Essentially, any Patek Philippe watch (made from 2024 onwards) labeled as water-resistant can safely go showering, bathing, swimming, and even diving to 30 meters deep. This is an interesting move on the part of the company and I wonder if other watch brands will follow suit by announcing more straightforward water resistance standards.

JACOB & CO Astronomia Régulateur

A decade ago, Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution . The model was marked by a unique dial display with a domed sapphire crystal revealing an architectural movement with an otherworldly planetary system. Since then, the Astronomia collection has retained its roots through numerous iterations with themes including skulls, casino games, The Godfather, and many others. Now, on the 10th anniversary of this wild collection, the watchmaker’s technical prowess is on full display with an all-new caliber in the Astronomia Régulateur.

The regulator is one of the most classic complications in watchmaking, notable for its unusual, separate display of the hours, minutes, and seconds in three different locations on the dial. As the name suggests, regulators are historically known for their accuracy and were used by other watchmakers to “regulate” their work. For its latest addition to the Astronomia collection, the brand provides a revolutionized interpretation of the regulator in a way that’s distinctly Jacob & Co.
At the heart of the Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution , Jacob & Co. debuts an all-new movement: the JCAM56. This exceptional caliber spurs from the brand’s years of work in the realm of rotating, vertical, tourbillon movements. We’ve seen this work on display in the Astronomia collection with a movement built like a carousel, featuring several satellites revolving around a central axis as well as rotating on their own axis, with each arm bearing a complication. The rotation speed of that central axis was initially set at 20 minutes. Then, in 2023, Jacob & Co. released the Astronomia Revolution, whose rotation speed accelerated to just 60 seconds, setting the movement into a wild horological dance.

Now, the new caliber JCAM56 builds on the technology of the JCAM48B found in the Astronomia Revolution, offering the same impressive 60-second rotation. Here, you have three arms: one is a flying tourbillon, itself making one rotation per minute, and the other two arms are dedicated to the time display. If those time-telling dials were fixed, they would be unreadable most of the time, but the Astronomia Régulateur uses a differential system to keep those dials vertically aligned for easy reading. Beneath all this, the seconds are displayed by a long golden hand that points to a large, domed, blue, and translucent ring bearing the seconds scale.
The caliber JCAM56 is showcased in all its glory thanks to the collection’s signature case design featuring large panes of sapphire around the case band. As if this wasn’t impressive enough, the caliber JCAM56 is also the slimmest Astronomia-type movement Jacob & Co. has produced to date.

Our Tudor Predictions For Watches & Wonders 2024

We do it every year not because it’s obligatory. We predict because we love the game, we’re addicted to the game, and – to be honest – the game is pretty damn fun. And so each show season (be it the former Baselworld, SIHH, and no Watches & Wonders) we try to guess (or wish) what Tudor and Rolex – the two brands who stay as secret as an Oscar ballot until day one of W&W – will release. Today we start with Tudor as we look inside our crystal ball, analyze the current catalogue, and make very personal choices about what we think we’ll see and what we’d individually like to see.

As Managing Editor, this is one of my favorite exercises of the year because our whole editorial team comes together with ideas that come from each of their own sensibilities as watch writers. Some of those ideas stretch my own capacity as a user of Adobe Photoshop, but I digress. This is all about having a bit of fun before we take off for Geneva and enter the wild world of W&W. Will we be right? Probably not, but that’s hardly the point. We are mere days away from seeing what both of these brands have in store for us and we can’t wait. Let us know in the comments what you think about our choices, and if you’ve got predictions of your own, let’s hear em!
Tudor Ranger II: James Stacey
Black Bay 54 Yellow Gold: Malaika Crawford
Black Bay Pro ‘Polar’: Tony Traina
Tudor Big Block Chrono In Steel: Mark Kauzlarich
North Flag Refresh… In Titanium: Danny Milton
31mm ‘Mini’ Black Bay 58 Pink Dial: Erin Wilborn
However, given the already storied downsizing in the watchmaking world, and Tudor’s recent release of the pink dial Tudor Black Bay Chrono, maybe my prediction isn’t all that far fetched after all. If micro miniskirts are having a resurgence in the fashion world, Tudor could consider adding a micro mini BB58 to its repertoire. I find there to be something really exciting from a design standpoint in the contrast created by executing something so sporty and traditionally masculine in bite-sized form. The 31mm Black Bay already exists, so is this idea really so unattainable? I think not. Tudor’s design and manufacturing team may staunchly disagree, however.

Breitling Premier Heritage B21 Chronograph Tourbillon

Since its introduction in mid-2021, the Breitling Top Time Classic Cars collection has changed the Top Time’s positioning in the brand hierarchy from an entry-level, youth-oriented chronograph series, to a more refined, lifestyle-inflected upscale collection. This revised line features frequent brand collaborations, exquisite finishing, and visual nods to some of the most beloved American automobiles of all time. The Top Time’s move upmarket shows no signs of slowing in 2023, and Breitling’s latest suite of releases brings the nameplate to new heights by introducing a tourbillon to the collection for the first time ever. Although their wild new complications may take top billing, the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection (which includes the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang, Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra, and Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette) brings the Top Time series to luxe new frontiers through unique materials, refined presentation, and more subdued branding than its predecessors.
Interestingly, the watches in the new Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection do not all share the same case dimensions. While the Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra and Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette both opt for 44mm wide cases in sleek black ceramic, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s warm bronze case measures in slightly smaller at 43mm wide. With that said, there’s little that differentiates between the two case designs in images, other than their materials. Both case styles feature a broader, more imposing version of the Top Time’s familiar midcentury-sporty case silhouette in photos, with slightly tapering attached lugs, narrow smooth bezels, and richly brushed case sides. As one might expect, Breitling fits all three watches with sapphire display casebacks, offering an unimpeded view of the movements within. Although these may be more luxe variants of the base Top Time platform, Breitling maintains the line’s sporting edge, and all three models are rated for a solid 100 meters of water resistance.
Like their standard chronograph siblings, the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon collection features dials inspired by the beloved cars that share their names. However, these models take a subtler approach, with more muted colors and no overt automotive branding in images. All three watches share the same dial layout, with an outer tachymeter ring in black, the line’s signature “squircle”-shaped 60-minute chronograph subdial at 6 o’clock, and a matching rounded-square cutout for the tourbillon escapement and its elegantly narrow skeleton bridge at 12 o’clock. From here, each model takes the layout in a different stylistic direction. With its surrounding bronze case and matching dial hardware, the Breitling Top Time B21 Ford Mustang’s vertically brushed Highland Green dial offers a deep, classically luxe colorway in images, harmonizing the tourbillon with the rest of the dial through matching and complementary hues. Conversely, the Breitling Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra takes a more serious, muted approach in initial photos, with its desaturated navy blue brushed dial and a blacked-out tourbillon bridge. Arguably the most striking of the trio, however, is the Breitling Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette. Rather than taking on an automotive paint-inspired dial hue like its counterparts, this model instead shifts its focus to the car’s dashboard. The dial surface is rendered from a single piece of walnut burl wood, featuring a rich blend of highlights, shadows, and textures in images. Wood dials are a real rarity in the modern luxury watch landscape, but the results in photos are dynamic, nuanced, and genuinely compelling.
All three models in the Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon series utilize the Calibre B21 automatic tourbillon chronograph movement. First introduced in 2022’s Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon, Breitling developed the B21 in partnership with movement specialist La Joux-Perret. The end result is an impressively solid performer, with a 55 hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate, as well as COSC certified chronometer accuracy. On the finishing side, the Calibre B21 is crisp and modern, if unspectacular in images. Broad perlage along the mainplate is accented by vertical brushing and anglage for the upper three-quarter plate, while the engraved skeleton rotor is dominated by a matching mix of vertical brushing and anglage. As one might expect though, the tourbillon is the visual centerpiece here, thanks to its use of contrasting metals and the arcing, narrow lower tourbillon bridge. Breitling completes all three models with a faux-perforated rally-style leather deployant strap in either midnight blue or cognac brown.

The Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter

This year, Breitling will celebrate its 140th anniversary, and the party kicks off with a somewhat unexpected release into the esoteric and multitalented Aerospace family. This new model – dubbed the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter –functions as a double anniversary release as the watch has been created to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the completion of the first non-stop balloon flight around the world, which landed in Egypt on March 21st, 1999 (25 years ago to the day). With an orange dial that recalls the paint job for the Orbiter 3 capsule, this Aerospace takes it a step further by also incorporating a piece of the original balloon into the case back of each watch.
Following the current generation of the Aerospace EVO, the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter edition has a 43mm titanium case and comes on your choice of a matching titanium bracelet or a rubber strap. Possibly due to the balloon-laden sapphire case back, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is 12.95mm thick, vs. the 10.8mm thickness of the standard E79363 generation.

Being an Aerospace, the B70 Orbiter has an ani-digi layout and offers everything from a date and second time zone to a flyback chronograph, timer, and alarm. All of these functions are coordinated via the pair of negative LCD displays that cut into the dial, which has a bright orange gradient base and features the logo from the Orbiter 3 mission (of which Breitling was a main sponsor).
The multi-functional capabilities of this Aerospace are derived from the Breitling B70, a thermocompensated high-accuracy SuperQuartz movement that is a new addition to the Aerospace line (the current generation uses the B79 SuperQuartz). With COSC certification, the B70 appears to be largely similar to the B79 aside from the possible omission of a backlight (this is yet unconfirmed beyond the listed specs) and the ability to run the chronograph to a second shy of 100 hours (vs. 48 hours for the B79). Apart from the functions, the other change with the B70 is the inclusion of two case-side pushers, presumably for controlling the many functions. While I haven’t had any hands-on time with the new model, this is a major departure from past Aerospace models, which features a single crown for controlling the digital complications and setting the watch.

The Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter production is not specifically numbered or limited beyond the availability of actual pieces of the Orbiter 3 balloon that are used in the caseback. Interested parties can expect a retail price of $4,700 on the rubber strap or $4,900 on the titanium bracelet.
I love ana-digi watches and have a genuine soft spot for Aerospace (especially the early examples). It’s a true modern tool watch, and I love the mix of function-over-form thinking and small elements like the fact that the displays (at least those with backlights) remain compatible with night vision goggles. I owned, adored, and entirely regret selling my grey-on-grey E56062-gen example and will almost certainly own another Aerospace in the future. Focusing on this specific new edition, the orange dial and the special balloon case back are certainly cool, but both ana-digi Breitling fans and old-school Hodinkee readers may remember that this is not the first Orbiter 3-themed Breitling. Back in 2000, the brand released the Emergency Orbiter 3, a 1,999-unit edition of the then-current Emergency generation with a blue dial that was further customized with the logo from Orbiter 3. My good pal Jason Heaton had one and wrote a lovely In-Depth for Hodinkee back in November of 2016 – I highly recommend you check it out here.
Back in 2000, the Emergency was selected because that’s what the crew of Orbiter 3 – Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones – wore while riding that balloon around the world. Given the difficulty of the mission and the likely need for rescue, the Emergency was the sensible option at the time. Sadly, that Emergency is no longer made, as it was discontinued more than a decade ago and was replaced by the Emergency II, which is available but as more of a special-order item). Within the modern Breitling catalog, the 25th anniversary thus fell to the Emergency’s sibling, the Aerospace.

Within that modern context, the Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter gets the handsome orange dial, and a special edition is born (along with that piece of the original balloon). At 43mm, the watch is a bit large for today’s tastes but is actually no larger (in standard case dimensions) than the original Orbiter 3 Emergency. I do expect that titanium will help quite a bit here, but also that the size won’t be the first concern for the type of Breitling customer that would love to own this new Orbiter 3 Aerospace. This is a niche within a niche. With rumors mounting that the current-gen of the Aerospace will soon be replaced by an updated reference, this B70-powered example may be as much a forward-looking creation as it is a reference to a special event from a quarter century in the past.

For me, there are two takeaways. First, the Orbiter 3 mission is a great story, and I highly recommend you read Jason’s In-Depth on the mission and the original commemorative Emergency (re-linked here for convenience). Second, I’m thrilled that Breitling is not yet done with my favorite model in their lineup as the ever-foolish Aerospace continues to find a home in both Breitling’s past successes and the brand’s ever-evolving future.

Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter Titanium

Last week, I bought a 2024 Breitling Aeropsace. In some respect, it was a bit of an impulse buy. A friend, who was helping a retired veteran of the Canadian Armed Forces move a few watches, sent me the pics. Less than forty-eight hours later it was in the mail, destined for my front doorstep. However, looked at from another perspective, it was a quick decision made after months of scouring the Internet, “window shopping.” I moved a few of my own watches recently to gather funds and make way for a birthday purchase. I was more than prepared to make a move. I just didn’t know what the move was. I won’t bore you with the details of my browsing history, or the candidates at the top of my list. What I will tell you is that the Breitling wasn’t among them. In short, serendipity stepped in. A week before I was presented with the Aerospace, I listened to Episode 178 of The Grey NATO podcast (The Breitling Challenge). Toward the end of the show, a brief exchange concerning the Breitling Aeropsace took place, where co-host James Stacey lamented the sale of his early 40mm model. This got me thinking about the Breitling Aerospace ads I used to ogle in my teenage years—images of pilots in full flight suits, anonymously helmeted heads behind reflective goggles, a wing tip over their shoulders against hazy, pale blue horizons. The Aerospace was released in 1985 just before the movie Top Gun hit screens around the world. Although Cruise wore a Porsche Design by Orfina in the film, images of Breiltlings and fighter pilots are invariably jumbled together with my memory of the cocky Maverick (and, admittedly, the lovely Kelley McGillis).

I know how badly my thirteen-year-old self wanted to be a pilot at that brief moment in time, if only to be cool. Don’t we all long to be cool at thirteen? The Breitling Aeropsace is a staple in Breitling’s Professional Series. These are among the brand’s toughest, hard-wearing models, designed to perform in the field. As such, the Aerospace is not just a nod to the pilot watch aesthetic. It is a watch built for pilots. Dozens of air-squadron specific limited editions attest to its heritage, from the RAF Gulf War Combat Air Wings, to the F16 Falcon Pilots, and the Royal Navy Air Rescue, to name but a few. Originally, upon launch, the watch was called the “Navitimer Aerospace.” However, unlike its iconic namesake, the Aerospace was Breitling’s first dedicated quartz-powered pilot. The ana-digi display was quintessential 80s. The Calibre B56 offered the added benefit of a digital second time zone, a chronograph function, and a perpetual calendar. The watch, built from titanium even then, measured 40mm in diameter, and came in just over 9mm thick. It had a unidirectional, rotating bezel and a hardened mineral crystal. This early model offered only 30m of water resistance, however.

A decade later, in 1996, the movement was upgraded to the Calibre B65. The crystal became sapphire, and water resistance was bumped up to 100m. In 2001, again, the movement was improved to the Calibre B75. During these years, there were also small changes in dial fonts and labeling. However, the watch remained largely true to its initial design in size and aesthetics right up to 2004. The greatest innovation in the Breitling Aerospace line came between 2005 and 2007, when for a brief period the watch added the term “Avantage” to its name. Breitling introduced its Calibre B79 at this time—a movement it uses to this day in the latest iteration of the Aerospace, known as the EVO. The movement offers a gamut of functions, including a chronograph, GMT, countdown timer, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, backlight, and alarm. More importantly, the B79–based on the ETA 988.352—is thermo-compensated to resist changes in temperature. Breitling refer to it as SuperQuartz.

It is COSC chronometer certified and officially accurate to within ten seconds a year. Anecdotally, however, the watch often outperforms its own specs. This makes the B79 up ten times more accurate than a regular quartz movement. At the moment, only radio-controlled watches can outperform thermo-compensated quartz; however, this is not because of the movements’ superior quality, but rather because radio-controlled watches make periodic adjustments through communication with a better clock elsewhere.

The digital count adjustment method used by the B79, therefore, is a minor miracle of engineering—especially given that it was devised more than a decade ago. Today, only a handful of calibres, like the Citizen A660, lay claim to better accuracy. The 2007 Breitling Aerospace, and the models after it until 2013, grew to 42mm in diameter. It also thickened somewhat to 10.4mm. However, because of its titanium construction, it remained under 38g. The model I own (E79362), even with its slash-cut titanium bracelet weighs in at a mere 84g. To put that into perspective, my SPB143 and Aquastar Deepstar—when on their bracelets—tip the scales at 161g and 180g, respectively. By comparison, the Breitling Aerospace feels like you are wearing air. It should also be noted that even at its increased dimensions, the watch remains 4mm thinner than the two aforementioned divers. The svelte case of the Breitling Aeropsace , coupled with the ease and accuracy of its quartz movement, make for an ideal daily wearer. I haven’t taken it off but to sleep since I received it. And that includes my workouts at the gym. I have no doubt—having another titanium watch in my stable already—that the Aerospace will be more than capable of taking a knock or two. As for its functionality, the entire watch is run from its crown. A simple push activates the minute repeater. A quick spin in either direction changes it from mode to mode. A slower rotation activates the backlight. One push to start the chronograph, another to stop. Hold it down for a reset. I have the GMT set to Melbourne, where my sister lives. The alarm goes off at 5am…and you can’t miss it. Additionally, the rehaut has an easily legible 24-hour scale, should you need it. I like the ratcheting bezel, as well. It’s not the hard snap of a Seiko diver, but it does have 120 solid clicks. With 100m of water resistance, and a healthy dose of Super-LumiNova on both its hands and indices, the Aerospace could easily pull double-duty as a skin diver. But the crystal…well, I have never seen AR like this. From most angles you would swear there was no sapphire glass at all. Breitling outline the process behind their crystal manufacturing on their website in a detailed article. In it, they claim their double-sided “glareproofing” eliminates 99% of all reflections. I don’t know how this is measured, but I believe it. In terms of styling, there is no doubt that with the exception of the 4 applied block numerals (an improvement over earlier fonts, IMO), the timepiece still speaks very much an eighties language. The bold, knobby bezel grip points, the brash dial markings, and the assertive logo all have an in-your-face quality. Admittedly, this is not for everyone. Like the continued ana-digi display, these design cues are an acquired taste—an odd jumble of elements that are at once retro and futuristic, as though we are observing a bygone era’s vision of the future. I call it “geeky cool.” And yet, for lack of a better term, I want to describe it as a very masculine design. Its predominantly brushed appearance (the only polish is a thin, broken line around the crystal) and tactical layout, give it a toolish, industrial quality, right down to the bezel screws. The only note of true superfluity might be its contentious bracelet. The angled links can be polarizing among Breitling aficionados, but I think it’s all part of the ugly duckling’s charm. Ultimately, there is only one design choice I can’t get behind, and that’s the hands. It’s a small thing, but while the thin pencil set is better than the partially skeletonized development in the EVO, it still lacks gravitas among so much brazen activity. Practically speaking, I understand the need to maintain visibility of the digital screens—and I don’t have a ready alternative—but it seems to me that something just a little more aggressive is necessary to achieve balance.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato 38 mm Copper Diamond Bezel

Afew weeks ago, we got to attend an event with our friends at Girard-Perregaux and go hands-on with some incredible upcoming pieces. You’ll see them all in due time, but the first release of the bunch brings a small change to an existing platform: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Copper Diamond Bezel . The Laureato 38mm is the midsize of the brand’s signature integrated bracelet model, currently only available with a copper dial or in the infinite green of the Aston Martin LE. New for 2024, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Copper Diamond Bezel sees the Copper model’s bezel carved out and set with an array of diamonds in different sizes.
The new diamond-set Laureato takes its cues from one of the early quartz chronometer Laureatos of the late 1970s, seen above. That two-tone model looks downright chintzy compared to the modern incarnation, but it serves as an excellent reference when the two are placed side by side. The new model is built on the Laureato 38mm Copper and is exactly the same except for the diamonds. With that in mind, I encourage you to head over to our hands-on review of the Copper model, as this review will only give a brief overview, instead focusing on what’s new (the diamonds). The case on the new model remains 38mm wide and 10mm thick. Water resistance is still 100m. You still get the octagon-on-circle bezel. The bracelet is still integrated and there’s still a combination of brushed and polished finishing. The dial is still that copper tone with the Clous de Paris pattern and the gold GP logo and seconds hand. That entire package worked well when it was first released, and it works well here, too. No surprises. Except for the diamonds! The octagonal layer of the bezel is now set with 56 diamonds totaling around .90ct. Unlike the original model, the diamonds continue all the way around the bezel instead of being interrupted by beading. It’s a far more refined use of gems than the original but still comes off a bit like a piece of vintage or even costume jewelry (perhaps baguette-cut gems are the way to my heart). To my eye, there’s always been something dated about pavé-set diamonds. There are other reasons I don’t think this implementation quite works. The texture created by the diamonds clashes a bit with that of the dial, and I wasn’t ever exactly sure which should be grabbing my attention. Looking the other way, the polishing of the lower bezel detracts from the diamonds’ sparkle, as you have two reflective surfaces competing for your attention, instead of the eye being drawn to just the diamonds. Perhaps brushing the top and leaving the side polished would have resolved the issue while still creating separation from the main case. The movement also remains the same: the in-house automatic caliber GP03300-2034. It gets a 46-hour power reserve at 28,800 vph and features basic finishing like striping, perlage, and blued screws, along with an 18k pink-gold rotor. Again, no surprises and no complaints.
I don’t think enough thought was given here. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Copper Diamond Bezel already have diamond-set bezels, and one wonders what the impetus was to add them to this model. This would’ve been a great opportunity to introduce a new dial that is attractive but lets the diamonds stand out, perhaps borrowing one of the sunray motifs from the Absolute or Eternity models. Or one could lean the other way and completely cover the dial with diamonds (and maybe even the center links on the bracelet). As it is, I was left a bit unsure about the execution, confused as to whether it needed more or less.

Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 44

The Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch embodies the distinctive aesthetics and precise essence of the brand. This item was recently incorporated into Breitling’s collection. By fusing traditional allure with contemporary sophistication, this model establishes itself as a benchmark within the luxury watch industry. This recent addition endeavors to appeal to both watch enthusiasts and trendsetters by fusing functionality with sophistication. Strong in construction and fashionable in appearance, it is a one-of-a-kind accessory for any occasion.

With a limited run of 500 pieces, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch is an uncommon discovery that was introduced exclusively in the United Kingdom. There are two variations of these, with 300 featuring a stainless steel band and 200 featuring a black polyurethane strap; each cost between $5,253 and $5,443. Collectors and fashionable individuals find it even more desirable due to its limited quantity. This recently launched timepiece merges exclusivity and luxury into one.
A classic stainless steel bracelet or a contemporary, functional black rubber strap are both viable strap options for this timepiece. Obtaining one is an uncommon opportunity, as only 500 are produced. The watch’s design allows it to cope with depths of up to 300 meters, making it suitable for professional diving or a brief swim. This Superocean Automatic 44 clock features a Breitling Caliber 17 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. Its stainless steel body makes it ideal for long-term wear. Furthermore, this clock is suitable for both daringly adventurous sports and regular work.

With its conventional and contemporary elements, the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch breathes in a multifunctional character.
Initially established in 1884 by Léon Breitling, the firm specialized in sports and industrial timing chronographs. Breitling’s swift association with the aviation industry gave way to its production of pilot precision instruments. With excellence and innovation, the organization has maintained its leading position in the watchmaking sector. During the 20th century, Breitling’s fame grew as their chronographs gained popularity among pilots and astronauts. Inventions such as the first autonomous chronograph push piece catapulted the brand to prominence.

Apart from upholding its legacy, Breitling is dedicated to stretching boundaries. Breitling clocks are distinguished by their superb workmanship, precision, and sophistication. The reputation of these timepieces is further backed up by the brand’s relentless commitment to brilliance.

This timepiece is destined to be the favorite of watch devotees owing to its restricted supply and unique traits. While expanding its historical roots, Breitling continues to demonstrate its commitment to superior quality with the Breitling Superocean Automatic 44 watch.

For Its Fifth Anniversary, A Small Code 11.59 Refresh

Can you believe it? Five years already. And while the collection might have been slightly (okay, more than slightly) maligned at launch, it seems to be finally hitting its stride. With the release of smaller 38mm Codes last year, plus better dial textures and indices, AP seemed to crack the – you know what, I’m not going to say it. This year, there are a few changes to the collection. First, you’ll no longer see Code 11.59 in white gold for chronographs and time-only pieces. Complications are still theoretically fair game, but we were told that steel and white gold seemed too close to each other and tended to cannibalize their own market. So expect to see more pink gold – the only gold variant the brand is doing on the Code for now
I didn’t get to spend much time with the Codes, but this is what we saw. The introductions were all dial variations on the now-existing platforms of 38mm and 41mm self-winding pieces and the 41mm chronographs, all in pink gold with stamped dials. In 38mm by 9.6mm models, you can now see the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” color of the original ref. 5402 Royal Oak on the stamped texture dial, delivered with a matching alligator strap or blue textured rubber. There’s also a much lighter light blue dial, a color between powder blue and turquoise. The 41mm three-hand (with date) models now come in that same dark blue and green (like seen on the steel pieces last year). Finally, the chronographs have blue, green, or black dial options now, and yes, they’re all now the stamped dial style from the steel chronographs, a massive improvement.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding, ref. 77410OR (38mm) and 15210OR (41mm), 38mm by 9.6mm OR 41mm by 10.7mm 18k pink gold case, with 30m water resistance; Light blue (38mm only), “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” or green dial with stamped motif, applied pink gold hour- markers and hands with luminescent material, and matching color inner bezel; Self-winding Calibre 5900 with 60 hours of power reserve (38mm) or Self-winding Calibre 4302 with 70 hours of power reserve (41mm). Textured rubber straps in matching colors.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Chronograph Ref. 26393OR; 41mm diameter by 12.6mm thick 18k pink gold case, with 30m water resistance. “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50,” or green dial with stamped motif, applied pink gold hour- markers and hands with luminescent material, and matching color inner bezel, gold surrounds on the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock subdials; Flyback chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds and date; Selfwinding Calibre 4401 and 70 hours of power reserve. Color-matching textured rubber strap.

NOMOS GLASHÜTTE Club Campus Endless

Nomos’ watches are often lauded for their unmistakable Bauhaus influences, and with good reason. “Less is more” is a famous slogan, but also a significant part of our modern understanding of colour is rooted in Bauhaus colour theory. Nomos appears to have embraced its colour studies over the years, consistently presenting watch dials in captivating shades and hues across all collections. Among them, the Nomos Club Campus series stands out as particularly vibrant. Notably, the brand continuously introduces exciting new colours to this series each year, showcasing a commitment to exploring colour aesthetics. After Absolute Gray and Future Orange, Blue Purple and Deep Pink, Cream Coral and Electric Green, the time has come for the Nonstop Red and Endless Blue.
Nomos tailors its Club Campus series specifically for the younger generation, positioning these watches as ideal companions for students during intense study sessions or as a tangible memento for celebrating graduation – complete with a complimentary caseback engraving. Crafted with the needs of young individuals in mind, these timepieces boast a robust construction, essential features, and an infusion of excitement through vibrant dial colours. And its relatively accessible price is also a great part of this strategy.
In the latest 2024 offerings, Nomos continues its trend, introducing references that echo the characteristics of previous years. The dials now sport striking bright red and captivating blue hues, adding another burst of energy to the collection. Available in polished stainless steel cases with diameters of 36mm and 38.5mm, with respective heights of 8.2mm and 8.5mm, these watches maintain a sleek profile with their rounded bezels and long curved lugs while ensuring durability, with water resistance of up to 100 meters.
The Nonstop Red and Endless Blue dials of the Nomos Club Campus maintain the familiar series design, featuring a stylish blend of Arabic, Roman, and baton-style hour indices – a sort of inverted California dial, the Glashütte way. All indices are coated in Super-LumiNova, emitting a captivating blue glow in the dark. The dial’s periphery hosts a minute track with double-digit markings for 5-minute segments, while the recessed subdial for running seconds takes centre stage in the lower part of the dial. The rhodium-plated hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova inlays, matching the indices. The small seconds hand is painted in a signature neon orange, standing out against the blue – and surprisingly well against the vibrant red background, too, contributing to the overall youthful design.
Nomos offers versatility with a choice between a solid steel or sapphire crystal caseback, expanding the options for the new Nonstop Red and Endless Blue references to eight. For those who prefer a display caseback, the in-house built, hand-wound Alpha calibre is on display, featuring elegant decorations such as Glashütte ribbing and perlage on the rhodium-plated surfaces, a sunburst finish on the ratchet and crown wheel, along with blued screws and gold engravings on the three-quarter plate. Those seeking ample space for a personalized message will appreciate knowing the decorated movement’s power reserve is up to 43 hours.