MB&F Legacy Machine

MB&F has just unveiled the brand-new Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO. The Legacy Machine Split Escapement that was first designed and conceived by master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell in 2015 was warmly welcomed by MB&F fans as one of the Legacy Machine collection’s most eye-catching and technically intriguing additions. As he wanted to display both the flying balance wheel and the escapement prominently at the center of the dial, McDonnell devised an ingenious solution – a balance staff.

The MB&F Legacy Machine’s balance staff is the longest one ever made, and traverses the entire movement. It takes its middle name, ‘Split Escapement’, from McDonnell’s witty idea of moving the anchor and escape wheel to the back of the movement. Indeed, McDonnell had split the escapement and left his large balance wheel fleeting alone on the top of the movement.

The movement in question is the manual-winding, 298-component movement invented by McDonnell that stores 72 hours of power reserve in double barrels.What’s ‘EVO’, you might ask? Fans of MB&F might be familiar with the EVO case that has been used in the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO; in the Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, which is the first-ever chronograph; and also in the UAE Golden Jubilee Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO, which was limited to 10 pieces. My favourite innovation of this beautiful timepiece is its date-setting push button, which McDonnell engineered as an idiot-proof way for anyone to set the date without any possibility of accidentally damaging the movement.

This latest evolution of the Legacy Machine is similar to the preceding LM Split Escapement, albeit rotated 60 degrees clockwise and relaunched with a pastel blue or black dial. Pastel blue is a dial color that is growing increasingly popular with watch collectors. The curved ergonomic lugs of this new timepiece fit the wrist better than the lugs of its predecessor. It also has a minimally thin bezel, so that we can admire its dial from more angles.

The Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO is available in two versions. Besides this grade 5 titanium case with a pastel blue baseplate and dark grey dials version, it also comes in a Beverly Hills edition that has a black baseplate and blue dials instead, and is limited to 25 pieces. If you’d like to see the brand-new MB&F LM Split Escapement Evo in action, keep an eye on Revolution’s Instagram profile as we’ll be posting videos today!

As if that wasn’t enough, MB&F will be opening an MB&F Lab in Raffles Hotel in Singapore in mid-September. Themed on a new experiential concept that immerses visitors in the technicality and beauty of MB&F creations, the first-ever MB&F Labs boutiques will open in Raffles Hotel, Singapore and Beverly Hills, California.

Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition

With its long and illustrious history that stretches back over 130 years, it’s hard to choose just one line that represents Hamilton. From the railroad watches that helped build the American West to ever-futuristic watches like the Ventura that graced the wrists of both Elvis and the Men in Black, there are plenty of icons to choose from, but it’s hard to argue against the Khaki line of field watches. Hamilton is now announcing the newest addition to the Khaki line: the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition, an all-terrain adventure watch available in two sizes and three colorways and ready for any adventure.
The Khaki line can trace its roots back to the trenches of World War I. After securing a contract with the U.S. military in 1914, Hamilton shifted its focus from pocket watches to wristwatches, producing field watches like the appropriately named Officer’s Trench Watch. Over a century later, the classic design cues of the military field watch remain — large, legible numbers, along with luminous hands and indices. Used by countless thousands of soldiers over the decades, Hamilton issued field watches to soldiers during both the Vietnam and Korean wars, the watches often returning home to be used as rugged and reliable companions.
Over the years, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition line has become synonymous with field watches. And the brand has plenty to choose from. With more than 60 options to choose from in the Khaki family, there’s a field watch for every style and wrist size. The Khaki Field Expedition retains all the hallmarks of the Khaki line, including large, Arabic markers and a distinct vintage military aesthetic. With the Field Expedition, Hamilton adds a functional and trail-ready compass bezel for analog navigation. This is a Khaki built for the outdoors, for nights beside the campfire and endless singletrack along mountain paths. With the Field Expedition, Hamilton gives you the choice of either a 37mm or 41mm stainless steel case. Both provide 100m of water resistance, screw-down crowns, and a slim case height of 10.45 or 11.5mm, respectively. The case is fully brushed — perfect for an adventure-ready watch — with the standout feature being its new compass bezel.
If you’ve never used a compass bezel before, it’s surprisingly easy to do. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, your first step is to keep the dial level and point the hour hand in the direction of the sun. Next, set the South marker to the mid-point between the hour hand and the 12 o’clock marker. Now you’ll have a rough indication of direction (swap south and north you’re in the southern hemisphere). While you should certainly have a proper compass or GPS while out deep in the field, two is one, and one is none, as the saying goes, so it’s always best to be prepared. In addition to the two case sizes, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is available in three dial colors: black, white, and blue. Each colorway features oversized Arabic numerals and no date, keeping the dial clean and symmetrical. Super-LumiNova on the hour markers and hands provides both nighttime legibility and a touch of warmth and vintage charm. The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is powered by the H-10 a Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition utomatic movement that features 80 hours of power reserve and a Nivachron balance spring. The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition is available on your choice of brown or green leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. However, with the 20mm lug width, it’s quick and easy to customize the Field Expedition to your tastes.

Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Exclusive

Announced just ahead of Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Exclusive Watches & Wonders 2023, the artisans at Jacob & Co. revealed its newest addition to the technically fascinating Astronomia collection – the Astronomia Revolution – and it has all the visual allure and beauty you’d expect from the storied maison and then some. “We’ve been grooming the Astronomia movement for eight years now,” CEO Benjamin Arabov said in a press release for the new piece. “[The Astronomia Revolution] is unique, unheard of, and not just an evolution of [the earlier] Astronomia. This piece has been reworked from the ground up. It required revolutionary mechanics, inventions, and what we at Jacob & Co. are driven by. Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Exclusive is ‘inspired by the impossible,’ and we made it possible.” There you have it, said best by the object’s biggest cheerleader: the Astronomia Revolution is a challenging mechanical marvel turned into beautiful kinetic art and was made with passion. The poetry of the Astronomia Revolution’s moving mechanics is only the first part of the timepiece’s appeal. And the best way to appreciate it is with a video showcasing the symphonic classicism that is the Astronomia Revolution in motion.
The second part of the appeal is the entirely unexpected presentation. The almost “antique tool” nature of the spinning satellite carriage would tempt some watchmakers to wrap it all up in the fussy package of a classically adorned case design, like a medieval astronomer’s tool displayed in a dusty box in a museum. But Jacob & Co.’s designers, as they tend to do, picked something more dramatic. The Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Exclusive ’s 47mm case-turned-stage for its whirling mechanics is clean, modern, and glimmering without being overly technical, regardless of the highly complex engineering marvel inside it. Simple rectangular bar second indices are on the watch’s equivalent of a flange at the top of the dial, but these indices do not create any visual distractions to an overhead view through the sapphire crystal. In fact, sapphire crystal portals along the casebands mean the fascinating, spinning machine takes centerstage regardless of your viewing angle. And that’s just what you want. But the real visual kicker is the curved array of eighteen hexagonal mirrors that serves as the movement’s dance floor. Each made from 18K red gold and inspired by the James Webb Space Telescope, this “floor” is a shining honeycomb ode to the highly polished reflectors aboard the telescope to observe the cosmos.

And, in the case of the Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Exclusive, they reflect the entire cosmic ballet above it wonderfully.

bell and ross br03

Bell & Ross might not have been a part of Watches & Wonders, but who says you always need to go to the party to have fun? Instead, the Parisian brand has been slowly unveiling its 2021 novelties on its own terms – a new watch coming every few weeks, a steady drip of takes on the classic square shapes and unorthodox designs it’s best known for. Taking a look at what has been unveiled thus far, one model in particular stands out. The BR 03-93 GMT, was unveiled at the start of this month and uses that famed square silhouette. Importantly, this GMT features a bi-directional 24-hour bezel, updating the previous BR 03-93 GMT design unveiled in 2016 which opted for a fixed bezel. It also follows up on the success of the 2018 BR V2-93 GMT, which was the first of the brand’s designs to use an external rotating 24-hour bezel, though with a more traditional rounded case as its outline.
Two features quickly catch your attention. The first is, of course, the familiar square watch design, deriving from an aviation-inspired style which Bell & Ross has come to dominate over its almost 30-year history. The other is its “Coke” bezel, which draws its influence from the ever-renowned Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II collections that’ve famously featured the colorway.

It goes without saying that the watch is not a Rolex, but what’s significant is this is the first square GMT watch from Bell & Ross to use an external rotating bezel. This is particularly noteworthy because the French watchmaker has been producing GMT designs since 2007, when it launched the BR 03 51 GMT Titanium which featured a second time-zone sub-dial directly on its face. So, in the course of a 29-year history of making square watches, and 14-year history of making GMT watches, only now does the brand bring one of the most popular GMT styles— i.e. an external rotating 24-hour bezel—to the square shape. Furthermore, it is doing so in one of the most popular colorways in the industry for its launch, the red and black “Coke” look, which is only secondary to the red and blue “Pepsi” style.
Significance for the brand aside, the BR 03-93 GMT is, at its core, still a solid new novelty from the brand. With a sturdy 42mm case opting for a layered look with four corner screws, beveling along its edge, an uncommon knurled crown on its right side, and a mixed use of satin finishing and polish throughout, the watch from its case alone reads as a highly durable tool watch – a fact further showcased via its 100-meter water resistance and much talked-about bezel.

Heading underneath its curved sapphire crystal, the dial is straight forward and well executed, with the clear focus on legibility. Along its outer edge is a simple curved white ring marked from 5 to 60 in Arabic numerals for the passing minutes, while applied and lume-filled markers sit within for the hours and smaller printed markers for the remaining minutes. The only flourish to this look comes in a subtle rounded date window towards the 4:30 position. At the center of the dial are a large set of lume-filled hands, the two passing over oversized applied Arabic numerals at each quarter hour and altogether making the process of telling time at a glance highly efficient. These hands are accompanied by a simple tapered seconds counter and, of course, the red-tipped and lume-filled arrow pointer for the watch’s second time-zone.
Inside the GMT is Bell & Ross’ modified ETA 2893-2, which they dub the BR-CAL.303. The automatic movement is modular and derives from the highly popular non-GMT ETA 2892-2, and like that movement, features a hacking seconds mechanism, 42-hour power reserve, and frequency of 28,800 vph – all alongside an independently operated GMT hand. Like the GMT it powers, it’s an easily serviceable, no-nonsense caliber able to keep time efficiently without much flourish.

Tudor 25717N-0001 Pelagos FXD US Navy Watch

With the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N, Swiss luxury watch brand TUDOR pays tribute to its iconic Milsub timepieces created for US Navy divers. This 42mm diving watch in titanium features a high-performance Manufacture Calibre, unidirectional bezel with ceramic-insert, black dial and fixed strap bars.

The TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N is a modern, high-performance and robust take on the famed “Milsub” (short for Military Submariner) of yesteryear.

Inspired by the aesthetic style of a late ‘60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016, this new model incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners.The US Navy issued TUDOR diving watches for decades starting in the latter years of the 50s. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams from their commissioning in 1962 all the way the late 80s.

These robust instruments have also served sailors in all types of underwater roles, including TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N , Seabees and Navy dive school instructors.

The issued TUDOR Submariners have played a role in teaching the basics of scuba diving at the Underwater Swimmers School, all the way to aiding in underwater submarine maintenance at submarine bases in the US and abroad. Issued TUDOR watches also played a role in pioneering innovative underwater technologies under the surface of oceans across the globe.

Throughout the decades, TUDOR has supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches.

In the 1965 “First Edition” of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook, a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 is pictured next to the “Diving Watch” paragraph. The handbook was an essential piece of literature for new operators as they studied UDT operational procedures.Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual lists the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as “Navy-approved” diving watches. In 1974, the National Stock Number system was introduced to track the supply system of the US Department of Defense.

From 1978, under code 6645-01-068-1088, a supply officer could purchase and issue a TUDOR Pelagos FXD Reference 25717N Oyster Prince Submariner reference 9411, or later 76100, to an approved sailor or operator in need of a reliable Navy-approved dive watch. This specific supply catalog entry was only retired in 2004.

Watches issued to members of the military are typically engraved with specific inventory codes, but the US Navy-issued TUDOR watches didn’t follow this pattern. There was never a force-wide, consolidated marking system.

Instead, the issued watches were either sterile, or marked at the unit level, with many different coding typologies, most of which were used for inventory purposes. Since many of these watches issued by the US Navy remain unmarked, it makes it quite difficult for watch scholars of today to determine the military provenance of a given TUDOR, even though official records indicate that very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS

Plenty of brands boast about pushing the limits of horology, changing your perception of time, and disrupting the industry. The endless catchphrases and adjectives to describe something that’s generally not all that different from the competition is tiring. Then, the Ulysse Nardin Freak comes into question, and the excitement about something unique and genuinely rare is revived. While the “Freak” name and branding have exploded across the Ulysse Nardin collection, there’s truly only a handful of “real” Freaks, with the collection growing by one more. The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops has been unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai bringing a splash of color and tacti-cool style to the collection. The Freak X line itself isn’t new, relatively speaking. It is aptly marketed as “the daily Freak” thanks to the presence of a crown and substantially lower price point than its crown-less Freak cousins. However, every ounce of remaining Freak DNA is on full display following the “no-hands, no-dial” defining factors. The one-hour orbital carousel tourbillon is affixed to an elongated bridge that becomes the minute hands, while the hour indicator is found on a disc protruding through the center of the movement. While at-a-glance legibility has never been a strength of this non-traditional design, the matte and brushed metal bridges over a black multi-dimensional background should help. Khaki green lume has been added to the bridges and the black radially brushed baton framework of the movement, which serves as hour markers. I have not had enough extended time with a Freak on my wrist to report if it becomes easier to read as you become accustomed to it.

The 206-component movement is the same caliber UN-230 manufacture movement found in the rest of the Freak X lineup. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The escapement is composed of lightweight silicon and features nickel flyweights to aid in rotation and regulation. The full movement is on display through a titanium caseback with a sapphire exhibition window. No caseback photos were available at press time. The Freak X OPS blends the brand’s “Magma” carbon fiber composite originally used in the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Magma, with a black DLC titanium case found on existing Freak X models. The patterned black and green flanks are paired with a lightweight titanium frame that leans into its “Operations” title. Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops is no stranger to carbon fiber; the brand uses it in multiple colors and shapes, even blending it with precious metals. The “Magma” material is composed of black carbon fiber and green epoxy resin. On the 2019 Freak X Magma, I found the material to look busy and cheap in images. The swirling black pattern has been reduced on the Freak X Ops yielding a more natural topographic-like design. Paired with the muted OD green resin, this design fits effortlessly into the “Ops” name, but make no mistake, the Freak X Ops is not your tactical tool watch. While it looks the part, the most tactical action most wearers will put it through is a few matches of Call of Duty.

The 43mm wide case of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ops boasts 50 meters of water resistance. While I would like to see the “everyday Freak” rated to 100m at minimum, this is far better than the 30m we so often see. The case measures 13.38mm thick to the top of the domed sapphire crystal and the brand reports the perceived thickness to be 10.7mm due to the downturned lugs, or what I like to call “lug hug.” Depending on the shape and size of your wrist, this may or may not be the case. The watch comes on a black recycled fishing net strap or a matching khaki green fabric strap with a hook and loop (velcro) closure. There’s no denying the unique position of the Freak in the watch industry. It represents some of the highest levels of innovative and non-traditional horology without any of the derivative repetitive designs plaguing nearly every level of watchmaking. While the Freak design has been around for over 20 years, it still feels fresh with each new take, and it’s one you almost certainly won’t see another at your local watch meet-up.

Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon

Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel originally met at complications specialist Renaud & Papi (now Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi) in the 1990s, and each found in the other a kindred spirit (although you would kind of expect to find lots of kindred spirits at APRP if you’re interested in complications at all). The two founded their own complications house – Complitime – in 2001 and in 2004, launched Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon. The company has made its mark making extremely ingenious complicated watches – generally, variations on the tourbillon, though not exclusively, and with other complications, as well – which are also hand-finished to an almost unbelievable degree. Their watches have generally not been anything you’d think of taking out for a hike or (God forbid) swimming with, but in recent years, the company has worked on creating watches that still have all the same technical and aesthetic merits you’d expect from Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon , but with easier-to-wear cases and better water resistance. The Greubel Forsey Balancier S was introduced in August of 2020 and this year, the company is introducing a new version of the Balancier S curved case, fitted with double balance wheels, inclined at 30º. The Double Balancier Convexe is, as is usually the case with Greubel Forsey, a large watch, at 43.50mm x 13.75mm (bezel diameter 46.50mm) but the titanium case, as well as its pronounced curvature, should make it much more wearable than you’d think from the hefty size. It’s also water-resistant to 100 meters which means you could actually dive with it if you wanted to (and I would bet real money that sometime in the next couple of years, someone’s going to). The dial side of the watch is where most of the horological action is, and if you like borderline mad-scientist horological experimentation happily married to top-tier haute horlogerie finishing, you’re going to love the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon . The watch is, despite its generous deployment of the ol’ razzle-dazzle, fairly straightforward functionally – there are two hands for the hours and minutes, a subdial for the running seconds display, and a four-minute indicator for the differential that supplies power to the two balances. There’s also a linear power display at two o’clock. The two stacked mainspring barrels, supplying 72 hours of running time, sit under an engraved cover at 11:00, and the differential sits between the two balances. The basic idea behind an inclined balance is the same as the thinking behind the tourbillon – if the balance is not in the horizontal or vertical plane exactly, you tend to get less variation between positions because the balance is never in one extreme position or the other (one of the earliest uses of an inclined balance I’m aware of is by the American watchmaker A. H. Potter, who made a tourbillon with inclined balance in around 1860, astonishingly enough). Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon has created inclined tourbillons as well, including the Quadruple Tourbillon GMT (which, like Potter’s design, has the balances set at a 25º angle) but has also done interesting work with inclined balances. The ideal angle for canceling out rate variations would probably be 45º, however that would produce a very thick movement. You could get around this to some extent by using a smaller diameter balance but beyond a certain point this adversely affects precision, and so such watches are generally designed around a compromise value – in the case of the Double Balancier Convexe, 30º. The idea behind using two balances is that even if one of the balances is in a completely flat or completely vertical position, the other will not be and the sum of their rates will be more precise than either one taken alone. The differential passes energy to both balances but since the hands of a watch are driven by the going train wheels, it also functions to average the rates of the two balances and produce a single rate which is displayed by the hands. The balances are free-sprung (i.e., no regulator, since it’s brought to time with the gold mean-time screws on the balance rims) with Phillips overcoil balance springs.

Every surface is finished, and very elaborately finished – screws, for instance, have chamfered heads and slots, and are polished on top, on the flanks, on the chamfers, and in the slots (which is a lot of polishing operations for a single component). Generally, Greubel Forsey uses a combination of very traditional finishing techniques and more modern finishes, and the classic gleam of polished steel and brass is complemented in the Double Balancier Convexe with the anthracite color of the titanium mainplate. The Double Balancier Convexe is a limited edition of 66 pieces and price at launch is $328,000. The haute horlogerie brand has chosen its Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon and Balancier Convexe S² to introduce high-tech carbon to its collection while simultaneously giving them smaller, more wearable cases.
While some watchmakers have used this week’s Geneva Watch Days to unveil brand-new movements, fresh dial executions, or exciting collaborations, Greubel Forsey has taken advantage of the decentralized fair to unveil its first timepieces to feature a carbon fiber case.

Specifically, the high-end independent brand has chosen its Double Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon and Balancier Convexe S² to debut this high-tech case material, which catches the eye with its horizontal veining and bold presence on the wrist.

What’s more, switching to carbon fiber has allowed the La Chaux de Fonds-based outfit to make a slightly smaller sized case – 42.5mm instead of 43.5mm for the Double Balancier Convexe, and 41.5mm rather than 43.5mm for the Balancier Convexe S².

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 36

Just released by Breitling is the new ladies collection of their iconic Navitimer pilot’s watch. Debuting in Breitling Navitimer Automatic 36 and 32mm case sizes, this new collection joins the brand’s collection’s existing ladies watch lineup which has been in the more “unisex” 41mm size. In typical Breitling fashion, there is a robust line up of pieces in this new collection which ranges from classic silver or anthracite colored dials to mother of pearl dials set with diamond hour markers. Before getting into the nitty gritty, it’s important to underscore Breitling’s commitment to responsibility and ethics when it comes to use of precious materials. As has been the topic of much discussion recently, Breitling has opted for lab-grown “better diamonds” here as part of their initiative to completely phase out the use of mined diamonds by the end of 2024. Additionally, the two-tone and full-gold pieces are done in “better gold” which means the precious metal is traceable to smaller gold mines that meet the social and environmental standards of the Swiss Better Gold Association. Let’s start with Breitling Navitimer Automatic 36 collection, all of which have the instantly recognizable Navitimer beaded bezel with circular slide rule. There are six steel iterations that come in either mint green, silver, or anthracite colored dials either on a bracelet or leather strap. The 36mm Navis also come in two-tone or solid-gold variants (also on matching bracelet or strap) with a stunning mother-of-pearl dial with the aforementioned lab-grown diamond hour markers. All of these Breitling Navitimer Automatic 36 models are outfitted with the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 movement that has a 38-hour power reserve and operates at 4 Hz. These 36m wide cases are 11.42mm thick (with 50 m of water resistance) and have a lug-to-lug measurement of 41.7mm. Given today’s more creative and flexible style choices, don’t be surprised to see these ladies watches on the wrists of more than a couple of men (myself included). The Breitling Navitimer Automatic 36 versions are both smaller and do not include the slide rule which seems prudent for such a small dial size. What they do have, however, are some beautiful powder pink and light-blue mother-of-pearl dials which are a first for the brand. There is also a white mother-of-pearl dial in steel as well as the two-tone gold. Again, these are all available with a matching bracelet or strap.

breitling navitimer 32 watch

On September 6 at a star-studded party hosted by CEO Georges Kern at New York City’s Classic Car Club, Breitling unveiled a spectacular collection of its iconic Navitimer watches in two new, more slender sizes.

Featuring captivating mother-of-pearl dials, traceable red gold, and eco-conscious lab-grown diamonds, the breitling Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32 made their grand entrance with the enchanting presence of actress, philanthropist, and brand ambassador Charlize Theron.

The Navitimer, born in 1952 as a pilot’s tool, has transcended its origins to become one of the most iconic and coveted timepieces in history. Often referred to as one of the greatest watches ever made, it has traditionally been on the larger side. The introduction of the breitling Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32 versions caters perfectly to those who appreciate the charm of a smaller-diameter watch.
These new iterations feature pops of pastel shades and the distinctive beaded bezel of the Navitimer, creating timepieces with a jewellery-like allure. This infusion of elegance makes the legendary navigational watch a versatile companion for any journey.

The launch campaign, titled Navitimer – For the Journey, kicks off a series of short films featuring Breitling’s brand ambassadors sharing their stories in their own words. The lead role in this captivating film is played by Oscar-winning actor Charlize Theron, who recounts her personal journey from remote South Africa to Hollywood’s international A-list.

Mr Kern aptly describes the Navitimer’s recognition factor, stating: “You can spot someone from across a room and know they are wearing a Navitimer. It’s just that recognisable. Charlize Theron so wonderfully represents this line because she too is an icon known the world over for her strength, beauty, talent, and powerful journey.”
In celebration of its 70-year history, the Navitimer has formed its own ‘Squad,’ featuring prominent figures like basketball superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo, dancer Misty Copeland, aviator Bertrand Piccard, and Charlize Theron, who serves as the face of the new models. Each member of the Navitimer Squad shares their unique journey in a series of films.

Charlize Theron reflects on her journey, saying, “My journey has always been about being up for any challenge. I traveled from South Africa to Los Angeles when I was quite young, and both that physical journey and the journey of being open-minded and ready for new experiences has served me well personally and professionally.”
For 2023, breitling Navitimer 36 and Navitimer 32 g expands its popular Navitimer collection with a pair of compact iterations. For the splashy release, the Breitling Navitimer 36 and 32 watches will be at the center of the new Navitimer – For the Journey campaign, starring Charlize Theron. Available in a multitude of metals, dial colors, and strap and bracelet choices, there’s no shortage of options for those looking for smaller and dressier versions of the Navitimer.

Breitling Superocean Heritage II 42 Sylt Edition II

The 1950s were a watershed decade for dive watches, if you’ll forgive the pun. Within a few years of each other, three different companies released three of the most enduring classics of the modern dive watch idiom: the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the Omega Seamaster 300. All had certain essential features in common – excellent visibility, rotating timing bezels, good water resistance – and each has gone on to become an icon for the company that made it. In 1957, another classic of the era debuted: the Breitling Superocean watches , which was released in both chronograph and non-chronograph versions.
Early Breitling Superocean watches have gone on to become very collectible – the first two references, in good condition, are now high five-figure timepieces (nothing like the crazy money being spent on rare Submariners, but still very respectable). This year is the 60th anniversary of the Superocean, and to mark the occasion Breitling has released a new version of the watch which looks back to the originals for its design cues, while at the same time looking very much forward from a technical standpoint – including the movement, which is being supplied to Breitling by Tudor (with modifications).
There are two sizes available for the new model – 42mm and 46mm, with a 46mm chronograph available as well – and all three models are available in brown, blue, or black. We had the blue and brown models in the office and the brown model on a strap was the one I wore for a week. The blue version on a steel mesh bracelet is just as handsome as the brown model, and for the same reasons: clarity of design and great depth of color. I can only assume the black model would be just as handsome, although the rich colors of the dials and bezels for the blue and brown models is hard to pass up, if you’re going to go for color in a dive watch at all. (Officially, the colors are “copperhead bronze” and “gun blue,” per Breitling). The strap on the brown version is rubber-lined leather and it’s quite thick, giving every impression of being nearly as durable as the steel mesh bracelet. Ordinarily, I would prefer something a little less heavy, but as the 42mm Héritage Superocean watches are 14.35mm thick, the strap works well and actually harmonizes better with the overall feel of the watch than would a thinner strap (for comparison, the Tudor Black Bay is about 14.8mm thick). The buckle has a micro-adjustment feature, which lets you fine-tune the fit, although basic strap length is a little harder to adjust, as it requires cutting the strap to the approximate correct length first. The micro-adjustment mechanism is simple to use: Just push in to unlock it, and you can shift the point of attachment of the strap inside the buckle to suit. (Leaving nothing to chance, Breitling has helpfully labeled the relevant locking mechanism “push.”) Fit and finish on this sub-$5,000 watch is very good indeed. The hands and dial markers pick up light beautifully and the Superocean is, as it should be, instantly legible under pretty much any lighting conditions you’d care to throw at it (including total darkness). Aside from legibility, though, it struck me during the time I wore it as a genuinely beautiful watch, with a kind of elegance I’ve missed in some of Breitling’s more recent creations. The shapes of the hands and indexes, as well as the warm richness and saturation of the dial and bezel colors, goes to show you that making an aesthetically nuanced tool watch needn’t be an oxymoron (I still can’t quite believe I’m describing a Breitling as “aesthetically nuanced,” but there you have it).
The Breitling Superocean watches bezel feels slightly stiff, dropping into half-minute stops as you rotate it; the upside of a certain degree of resistance, of course, is that you feel when you set the bezel that it’s not going anywhere. One of the most interesting aspects of the Superocean Héritage is what’s under the hood – in this case, the Breitling caliber B20. This is sort of an in-house movement, and sort of not; it’s based on the Tudor caliber MT5612, which was first introduced by Tudor in the Pelagos. There are some differences between the MT5612, as used by Tudor, and the B20 – for one thing, the B20 has somewhat more traditional finishing than MT5612, which has an almost modernist look, with bead-blasted bridges rather than the Geneva stripes used in the Breitling version. The other major difference is that the B20 doesn’t have a silicon balance spring, which means less resistance to magnetic fields. However, a lot of the value of the movement is still there. The B20 is, like the caliber MT5612, a tough movement designed for hard use, with a balance bridge (providing somewhat better protection against shock) and a freesprung, adjustable mass balance – and, of course, a 70 hour power reserve.
Because of the closed caseback, you can’t see the Breitling Superocean watches movement, which is a bit of a shame, but you can definitely tell it’s there from the performance of the watch. Certainly, this chronometer-certified caliber came through in daily use – I’d expect the watch to drift a little on its rate over time but at least during the one week period I wore it, it gained exactly one second per day, which is stellar performance by any standard. Wider use by Breitling of this movement (and I can only assume they’ll deploy it elsewhere in the next year or two) would make a significant change in how potential buyers evaluate the value proposition of Breitling watches. This version of the Breitling Superocean Héritage will run you $4,500 (the blue dial version on the mesh bracelet isn’t much more expensive, at $4,700). After a week with the Breitling Superocean watches brown dial version I really felt like there’s a lot on offer from Breitling with this one. The aesthetics are really compelling (it’s one of the more handsome new dive watches out this year, for sure). And with a ceramic bezel, a very nicely made strap with a well-engineered bracelet, and that caliber B20 inside – which gave nothing short of excellent performance during the week I had it, and which has some very nice technical bells and whistles going for it – Breitling has here a very serious new contender in the $5,000 and under dive watch category. Definitely worth a serious look, and a great deal of what you get in more expensive dive watches, for several thousand less.